New Year to the forum:cheers2:
Moog rear springs are shorter than stock?
I searched and came up with nothing but hoping someone has answers.
background: TJ sags in the back and sinks much more than the fronting over dips in the road. New shocks didn't help. I've read that rear sag is a problem with TJs and Moog is a good replacement.
Now for the ask: Are they supposed to be shorter than stock springs? The wire looks thicker but they are shorter. The Moogs are part number 3229 from Summit Racing.
Thoughts? Summit doesn't list a special part number for the Rubicon Unlimited for the rears but they do for the fronts. Did I get the wrong spring?
At least the old ones are out... And it's beer time. Happy New Year!
background: TJ sags in the back and sinks much more than the fronting over dips in the road. New shocks didn't help. I've read that rear sag is a problem with TJs and Moog is a good replacement.
Now for the ask: Are they supposed to be shorter than stock springs? The wire looks thicker but they are shorter. The Moogs are part number 3229 from Summit Racing.
Thoughts? Summit doesn't list a special part number for the Rubicon Unlimited for the rears but they do for the fronts. Did I get the wrong spring?
At least the old ones are out... And it's beer time. Happy New Year!
Can't keep jeep running
Looking for some help.
Have a 98 TJ 4.0 203+K miles 5spd, Remanned engine been in for about 5k miles. In the last 2 weeks I have been having an issue starting it.
First was starter dragging, then when I did get it started it was like no fuel pumping. Rough idle, had to keep foot on pedal to keep running. As soon as foot was off it would die.
Replaced the starter thinking 203k miles on the OEM was enough.Worked fine for about a day but then started the same thing. Had already replaced fuel pump just before putting engine in. Ebay pump so I thought that could be the problem. So brand new Airtex fuel pump went in. No good, right off the bat after priming rough idle and dying when foot was off the pedal.
Alternator is charging fine and the battery is good. I am thinking the distributor may have moved and is out of timing or injectors are giving up.
I can find no vacuum leaks and I do not hear any air being sucked in. Plugs and wires look good (no arcing). Cap and rotor are also good.
Here are links to a few videos.
This is when trying to start the jeep, sound like battery is crap but it has tested fine and it also would not explain the rough idle after it does start.
This one is after I got it started and was keeping my foot slightly on the gas. You can see when I take my foot off the gas the idle drops and wants to die.
This last one is when it finally was running. I had not foot on the gas and engine was starting to warm up.
Please let me know if the video links do not work.
Have a 98 TJ 4.0 203+K miles 5spd, Remanned engine been in for about 5k miles. In the last 2 weeks I have been having an issue starting it.
First was starter dragging, then when I did get it started it was like no fuel pumping. Rough idle, had to keep foot on pedal to keep running. As soon as foot was off it would die.
Replaced the starter thinking 203k miles on the OEM was enough.Worked fine for about a day but then started the same thing. Had already replaced fuel pump just before putting engine in. Ebay pump so I thought that could be the problem. So brand new Airtex fuel pump went in. No good, right off the bat after priming rough idle and dying when foot was off the pedal.
Alternator is charging fine and the battery is good. I am thinking the distributor may have moved and is out of timing or injectors are giving up.
I can find no vacuum leaks and I do not hear any air being sucked in. Plugs and wires look good (no arcing). Cap and rotor are also good.
Here are links to a few videos.
This is when trying to start the jeep, sound like battery is crap but it has tested fine and it also would not explain the rough idle after it does start.
This one is after I got it started and was keeping my foot slightly on the gas. You can see when I take my foot off the gas the idle drops and wants to die.
This last one is when it finally was running. I had not foot on the gas and engine was starting to warm up.
Please let me know if the video links do not work.
95 YJ build
Just joined this forum and want to say Hello.
I just started building up my 1995 YJ. Just installed a RC 4.5" lift, all new exhast from the header back and in the process now of installing new metal cloak fenders. Tore off the fist fender last night :thumbsup:. Just received a set of flat black Pro comp rims 15x10 and plan to put 35"BF Mud tires on them. The pics shown are with my buddies 33's. Here are a few pics.
I just started building up my 1995 YJ. Just installed a RC 4.5" lift, all new exhast from the header back and in the process now of installing new metal cloak fenders. Tore off the fist fender last night :thumbsup:. Just received a set of flat black Pro comp rims 15x10 and plan to put 35"BF Mud tires on them. The pics shown are with my buddies 33's. Here are a few pics.
P1398 code 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee
So heres the story,
I left my Jeep Grand Cherokee at a friend's house , haven't really drove it , haven't cranked in
about a week. When I first cranked it up it was cold and the rpm rev to 2500. Did that all day
when I drove, but then slowly it drop to 2000 rpm then to 1500 then went back to 1000 rpm.
One thing I notice is the battery terminals must be getting bad because sometimes after I haven't
drove it in a while , i have to play around with it to get it start the car.
My Jeep Grand Cherokee will no longer start by turning the key, i have to push a little bit of gas
and it starts it up. It drives perfectly but now reads a p 1398 code?
I've read in a couple forums, people changing the crankshaft position sensor and the check engine
light still staying on.
Does this sound like a crankshaft position sensor problem or something else?
Any help would be much appreciated.
I left my Jeep Grand Cherokee at a friend's house , haven't really drove it , haven't cranked in
about a week. When I first cranked it up it was cold and the rpm rev to 2500. Did that all day
when I drove, but then slowly it drop to 2000 rpm then to 1500 then went back to 1000 rpm.
One thing I notice is the battery terminals must be getting bad because sometimes after I haven't
drove it in a while , i have to play around with it to get it start the car.
My Jeep Grand Cherokee will no longer start by turning the key, i have to push a little bit of gas
and it starts it up. It drives perfectly but now reads a p 1398 code?
I've read in a couple forums, people changing the crankshaft position sensor and the check engine
light still staying on.
Does this sound like a crankshaft position sensor problem or something else?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Front sway bar link bolts - are they special?
The passenger side front sway bar link bolt on my 93 ZJ is shot - it's a standard hex head (while the driver side one is still the factory Torx head) but it's rusted to hell and I had to cut it off.
Can any standard bolt of the appropriate size work as a replacement? Only I've read that there's something special about the sway bar link bolts, even though the driver side one looked totally standard (aside from having a Torx head) when I pulled it out.
Can any standard bolt of the appropriate size work as a replacement? Only I've read that there's something special about the sway bar link bolts, even though the driver side one looked totally standard (aside from having a Torx head) when I pulled it out.
Skid plates for MUD...
mardi 30 décembre 2014
Hello all! I don't go on the rocks often, but I regularly off road in muddy conditions- barreling across soft fields, that sort of thing. Corn stalks are a risk, too.
Last week my chum got stuck, axle deep and resting on the bottom of her truck. She'll be out when spring comes...
I got lightly stuck trying to pull her out with my Trailblazer (JK in the shop, engine lights), and when they were dragging it out with a tractor I had visions of what that stuff was doing to the undercart.
So I'm thinking, what should I do about maybe getting a skid plate system like the Synergy, Treks, or River Raider? It seems like the area around the front axle is the most vulnerable, and the commercial systems I mentioned don't really guard there. But I do want something the truck will sit on if I do sink in the quickmud. That way I won't be tearing things off when I get pulled out.
I wish someone made a full rail to rail plate (like GenRight does for lifted jeeps), or that I could make one, but my jeep is only lifted 2 inches. Too much stuff hanging down for a flat plate.
It looks to my ignorant eye like all the full systems are pretty similar. Help a sis out, which do you like and why?
(No pictures of the buried truck, but I will post some in a couple of days.'S pretty funny.)
Last week my chum got stuck, axle deep and resting on the bottom of her truck. She'll be out when spring comes...
I got lightly stuck trying to pull her out with my Trailblazer (JK in the shop, engine lights), and when they were dragging it out with a tractor I had visions of what that stuff was doing to the undercart.
So I'm thinking, what should I do about maybe getting a skid plate system like the Synergy, Treks, or River Raider? It seems like the area around the front axle is the most vulnerable, and the commercial systems I mentioned don't really guard there. But I do want something the truck will sit on if I do sink in the quickmud. That way I won't be tearing things off when I get pulled out.
I wish someone made a full rail to rail plate (like GenRight does for lifted jeeps), or that I could make one, but my jeep is only lifted 2 inches. Too much stuff hanging down for a flat plate.
It looks to my ignorant eye like all the full systems are pretty similar. Help a sis out, which do you like and why?
(No pictures of the buried truck, but I will post some in a couple of days.'S pretty funny.)
Ok boys and girls need me some gears
Ok so I went to Ruidoso in my jeep with no doors and top this summer and she was a dog on the uphill. I have a 05 Rocky Mountain edition 4.0 6 speed 30/44 w/3.73 gears and I want to regear her and do it so that I can go the speed limit and use 6th again on the high way. And eventually lock the front and rear but not at the moment as funds have to come first TIA
Rad Blew, Engine overheated, possible bearings blown... Related?
So I took my XJ in for a rad flush, and turns out the shop flushed the coolant, didn't drain the water/flush out.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago, I'm driving and it's about 5degrees farenheit (-15C) out, and driving about 5 miles (usually it's warm by then) wondering why the air is barely warm. before my rad blows and sprays my windshield. Thinking it's snow off the grill, I continue on for a few min, as the block starts making a LOUD knocking/tapping sound and the engine shuts off, only to start once for a few seconds then turn off.
Took it to a different shop, he started it and said there's a very loud noise, possible rod failure, and suggested take it back to the place that botched the flush.
They drained it, and say it's likely a bearing on the connecting rod where it connects to the crank (took off belt and turned it on and said that's how they found out). Also claim that it's probably unrelated and it was fluke that it happened when the rad blew, as the bottom end "has nothing to do with overheating".
So the question... Or questions... Anybody have anything like this happen before? Causes? And if it's related to the overheating or could it actually be a fluke and something else?
Fast forward to a few weeks ago, I'm driving and it's about 5degrees farenheit (-15C) out, and driving about 5 miles (usually it's warm by then) wondering why the air is barely warm. before my rad blows and sprays my windshield. Thinking it's snow off the grill, I continue on for a few min, as the block starts making a LOUD knocking/tapping sound and the engine shuts off, only to start once for a few seconds then turn off.
Took it to a different shop, he started it and said there's a very loud noise, possible rod failure, and suggested take it back to the place that botched the flush.
They drained it, and say it's likely a bearing on the connecting rod where it connects to the crank (took off belt and turned it on and said that's how they found out). Also claim that it's probably unrelated and it was fluke that it happened when the rad blew, as the bottom end "has nothing to do with overheating".
So the question... Or questions... Anybody have anything like this happen before? Causes? And if it's related to the overheating or could it actually be a fluke and something else?
Glow Plug Problems - Jeep GC 3.0L Diesel
Hello all, hope everyone is enjoying their holidays!
A little background info: Replaced the Glow Plug Module Controller with correct OEM updated (smaller part) version. Cured the initial problem for roughly two-three months. Vehicle is a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 3.0L CRD Diesel.
Problem: I scanned the Jeep and I get the fault code P0674 informing me about glow plug #4.
Diagnosis: I took a multimeter to all glow plugs all read ".08" except one of them reading "1." I'm assuming this one glow plug has an infinite reading and needs to be replaced (will replace all 6 at the same time as per forum recommendations). I also took the multimeter to the glow plug clips, and as I turn the key the readings shot up to 10.5-10.8 each as they quickly went back down to 0 after a few seconds.
Solution: Should I be replacing all 6 glow plugs at this point? (with Beru) or should I be replacing/looking at the glow plug harness? or should I be replacing/looking at the glow plug relay?
If any other information is required, please ask. Thank you, any help or suggestions are appreciated!
P.S: Where is the best place to purchase glow plugs? (I'm located in Canada, don't want to get killed with duties and taxes)
A little background info: Replaced the Glow Plug Module Controller with correct OEM updated (smaller part) version. Cured the initial problem for roughly two-three months. Vehicle is a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 3.0L CRD Diesel.
Problem: I scanned the Jeep and I get the fault code P0674 informing me about glow plug #4.
Diagnosis: I took a multimeter to all glow plugs all read ".08" except one of them reading "1." I'm assuming this one glow plug has an infinite reading and needs to be replaced (will replace all 6 at the same time as per forum recommendations). I also took the multimeter to the glow plug clips, and as I turn the key the readings shot up to 10.5-10.8 each as they quickly went back down to 0 after a few seconds.
Solution: Should I be replacing all 6 glow plugs at this point? (with Beru) or should I be replacing/looking at the glow plug harness? or should I be replacing/looking at the glow plug relay?
If any other information is required, please ask. Thank you, any help or suggestions are appreciated!
P.S: Where is the best place to purchase glow plugs? (I'm located in Canada, don't want to get killed with duties and taxes)
35's no lift
I've had a couple jeeps and while all built how I liked at the time, we all 4.5"/6" of lift for 35's and 38's. Although the 38 was on a full width YJ trail jeep.
That brings me to this point.
Was looking for a built rig but couldn't find quite what I was looking for. I wanted to save that money! So a few months of looking around I found an 03 rubi, auto, 138K on the clock. perfect.
At the guys place I bought it from.
the day I brought it home. Completely stock.
As far as a built plan- I knew I wanted zero lift, highlines, TT and something that wasn't 7500 lbs. Was pretty set on 33's from the beginning as I didn't want to re gear for 35's, plus they would be easier on the drive train as we all know RCV's aren't cheap.
That being said, I did a good bit of research and calling around and decided Savvy was the best option. After I whored myself out for a few months, I cleaned up on their website.
However, It took me about 3 months to get the first round of mods done as work had me to
and
So once I got back I started on the Novak Cable shifter. That was a ***** to get to with no body lift and the oem skid plate. Looking back, I would do it in a completely different order.
Got you you little bastard!
Then went the body lift for the TT.
MML
Painted steel hardware for TT with POR 15. Anyone that has used this- the orig can is the worst design, hardly "reusable".
Did a little hood louvering with the PSC Kit. Along with new radiator, flush, thermostate and belts, i run very cool. Probably too cool.
.
That's all for now. I gotta do something other than sit on here.
That brings me to this point.
Was looking for a built rig but couldn't find quite what I was looking for. I wanted to save that money! So a few months of looking around I found an 03 rubi, auto, 138K on the clock. perfect.
At the guys place I bought it from.
the day I brought it home. Completely stock.
As far as a built plan- I knew I wanted zero lift, highlines, TT and something that wasn't 7500 lbs. Was pretty set on 33's from the beginning as I didn't want to re gear for 35's, plus they would be easier on the drive train as we all know RCV's aren't cheap.
That being said, I did a good bit of research and calling around and decided Savvy was the best option. After I whored myself out for a few months, I cleaned up on their website.
However, It took me about 3 months to get the first round of mods done as work had me to
and
So once I got back I started on the Novak Cable shifter. That was a ***** to get to with no body lift and the oem skid plate. Looking back, I would do it in a completely different order.
Got you you little bastard!
Then went the body lift for the TT.
MML
Painted steel hardware for TT with POR 15. Anyone that has used this- the orig can is the worst design, hardly "reusable".
Did a little hood louvering with the PSC Kit. Along with new radiator, flush, thermostate and belts, i run very cool. Probably too cool.
.That's all for now. I gotta do something other than sit on here.
Badlands vs Superwinch
I have done a lot of research but am looking for more opinions.
I have the opportunity to get the Harbor Freight Badlands 12k winch for about $200 or the Superwinch LP8500 for $300 or the Tigershark 9500 for $350.
I have a 2 door JK that I'm slowly preparing for offroad and need the right tools for the just in case moments.
Who has experience with these winches? Also, should I upgrade to synthetic after buying?
I have the opportunity to get the Harbor Freight Badlands 12k winch for about $200 or the Superwinch LP8500 for $300 or the Tigershark 9500 for $350.
I have a 2 door JK that I'm slowly preparing for offroad and need the right tools for the just in case moments.
Who has experience with these winches? Also, should I upgrade to synthetic after buying?
roof rack/HighLand
Hey guys I have a roof rack by HighLand and the high measurements are 4.25in I'm trying to find an extension for it with the sane high. All I'm finding is 4in, if you know where I can find out leave the link below or any ideas would be very helpful thank you.
ETC Error Codes
I am having a ETC issue with my recently purchased 2007 JK 4dr. I believe I bought a Lemon and its out of warranty of course. Should have taken the Jeep back the day 1st time the ETC )Z( light went off. Only had my JK for a little over a month and am having serious issues pop up.
My codes thrown are as follows:
P2135
P0221
P0121
P060E
C121c
The ETC warning light goes on and off at random times when driving. Sometimes at take off, slow speed when the RPMs drop below 2000, and sometimes not at all. The other day it stopped me dead in my tracks with the entire engine choking out, good thing I was in a Publix plot.
Any help would be great on where to start other then taking her to a shop to get taken to the cleaners. I'd love to do the work myself if its not having to take apart the entire engine.
2007 Unlimited Sahara
103k miles.
Thank for any help. :2thumbsup:
My codes thrown are as follows:
P2135
P0221
P0121
P060E
C121c
The ETC warning light goes on and off at random times when driving. Sometimes at take off, slow speed when the RPMs drop below 2000, and sometimes not at all. The other day it stopped me dead in my tracks with the entire engine choking out, good thing I was in a Publix plot.
Any help would be great on where to start other then taking her to a shop to get taken to the cleaners. I'd love to do the work myself if its not having to take apart the entire engine.
2007 Unlimited Sahara
103k miles.
Thank for any help. :2thumbsup:
Will my factory jack work with 33" tires?
lundi 29 décembre 2014
Will my factory jack work with 33" tires? If not what do you carry incase you have a flat?
Wheelin' into 2015. New Year, New Trail! - ExtremeTerrain.com
Hey Guys! We hope everyone got what they wanted for the Holiday's and we're gearing up to hit the trails in 2015! Make sure to check out our Wheelin' Into 2015 Sale Right Here and Did I mention that We price match?! If you don't have our Forums Discount Code either shoot me a PM and I'll get you set up!
Ryan
Make sure to check out some great deals being offered for your Jeep's Generation:
- JK Jeep Parts on Sale
- TJ Jeep Parts on Sale
- YJ Jeep Parts on Sale
We wish everyone a safe and Happy New Year!
Ryan
ZJ Front End Skid Plate
Factory Front End Skid Plate for ZJ (Jeep GC 1993-1998)
Purchased used, but I never got around to installing it.
Some surface rust on underneath side, but looks far worse in the photo than it really is. It's very solid and just some surface rust that can be dealt with easily.
$50 - local pickup only (Phoenix metro)
Purchased used, but I never got around to installing it.
Some surface rust on underneath side, but looks far worse in the photo than it really is. It's very solid and just some surface rust that can be dealt with easily.
$50 - local pickup only (Phoenix metro)
There's a thief among us..
Earlier this year i called out a guy here with proof that he's a well known scammer/thief from other Jeep/Offroad related forums. He's been known by many screen names over the years, Kamaran/Casual/88xj/DesertJr..and more. He's been banned on many forums, just google the name Kamaran Wain as in my sig and you'll see..
When i called him out he apparently was able to convince the mods that i was somehow mistaken, and i was asked to edit my sig and move on. I'd rather try to warm others and get banned than sit back and watch as one more person gets screwed.
I dont think he can talk his way out of this.. and i'm not wasting my time trying to go through the Mod's again.
His latest FS thread..
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f129/...-skid-2893785/
And proof that he's who i claim him to be...
When i called him out he apparently was able to convince the mods that i was somehow mistaken, and i was asked to edit my sig and move on. I'd rather try to warm others and get banned than sit back and watch as one more person gets screwed.
I dont think he can talk his way out of this.. and i'm not wasting my time trying to go through the Mod's again.
His latest FS thread..
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f129/...-skid-2893785/
And proof that he's who i claim him to be...
Compass Latitude - MPG/Miles until empty indicator/hack?
Hello:
My wife just bought a 2014 Latitiude; is there a way to have the MPG, or Miles until empty indicated on the dash menu? Hack/upgrade available?
Thanks.
Kevin
My wife just bought a 2014 Latitiude; is there a way to have the MPG, or Miles until empty indicated on the dash menu? Hack/upgrade available?
Thanks.
Kevin
dontus, anyone?
hi guys,
sorry about the "improper" use of the jeep, but i had a ton of fun so i'm posting this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xecwPlxeEz4
:rofl::2thumbsup:
sorry about the "improper" use of the jeep, but i had a ton of fun so i'm posting this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xecwPlxeEz4
:rofl::2thumbsup:
99 Sahara. Green Machine
A little background about me. Almost 40. 2 kids. Been wheelin' since I was in my 20s, been going in the woods since my early years.
My last jeep was an 87 with 3/4 ton running gear locked and 36s. Road worthy, but not very good road manners. Got rid of it when my daughter arrived to focus on family.
Here are a couple of pics I took to sell it.
My son is old enough to start going offroad, so it was time for another Jeep.
I searched for about 2 months before I found this one.
The first owner sent it to Utah to have all the mods done to it after purchase.
IT has 82000 miles on it and the following mods.
6cyl/manual
5" rubicon lift
5-35" wrangler mtr's
Antirock front sway bar
Currie dana 60 rear with ARB 4:88
Dana 30 with Detroit in front 4:88
1 ton steering
Atlas transfer case
Full cage - unsure of brand
Boat sided - unsure of brand
Warn winch
rear bumper tire carrier (swing out)
front warn bumper
warn skids (front diff, steering box, gas tank)
CB located in cage above
Winch wired in cab controls
Took it out to a local trail close to the house with my son on Saturday.
Arrived at the trail and met a couple of guys going to recover a sunken full size, so I decided to follow them and make sure they got it out. Good thing I did. This truck was sunk to the frame.
After they tried to pull it with the truck they brought, I hooked to it with the winch and hooked the rear to a tree, so it didn't drag me.
My son gives the thumbs up.
That's it so far. I will update this thread with mods and pictures from wheelin' trips.
Plans are to outfit it with recovery, tools and first aid then start making it mine.
I want to lower it a little, go with metal cloak fenders and 36" tires. Eventually a 44 or 60 in the front and maybe some 5:13s.
A small stretch at each end.
LED lights
Remove carpet and bedline the interior
My last jeep was an 87 with 3/4 ton running gear locked and 36s. Road worthy, but not very good road manners. Got rid of it when my daughter arrived to focus on family.
Here are a couple of pics I took to sell it.
My son is old enough to start going offroad, so it was time for another Jeep.
I searched for about 2 months before I found this one.
The first owner sent it to Utah to have all the mods done to it after purchase.
IT has 82000 miles on it and the following mods.
6cyl/manual
5" rubicon lift
5-35" wrangler mtr's
Antirock front sway bar
Currie dana 60 rear with ARB 4:88
Dana 30 with Detroit in front 4:88
1 ton steering
Atlas transfer case
Full cage - unsure of brand
Boat sided - unsure of brand
Warn winch
rear bumper tire carrier (swing out)
front warn bumper
warn skids (front diff, steering box, gas tank)
CB located in cage above
Winch wired in cab controls
Took it out to a local trail close to the house with my son on Saturday.
Arrived at the trail and met a couple of guys going to recover a sunken full size, so I decided to follow them and make sure they got it out. Good thing I did. This truck was sunk to the frame.
After they tried to pull it with the truck they brought, I hooked to it with the winch and hooked the rear to a tree, so it didn't drag me.
My son gives the thumbs up.
That's it so far. I will update this thread with mods and pictures from wheelin' trips.
Plans are to outfit it with recovery, tools and first aid then start making it mine.
I want to lower it a little, go with metal cloak fenders and 36" tires. Eventually a 44 or 60 in the front and maybe some 5:13s.
A small stretch at each end.
LED lights
Remove carpet and bedline the interior
Flush mount LED Spot Lights
NemesisGT flush mount LED spot light (pair)
24 watts - 1992 lumens each
Brand new in box
Can also be mounted like a normal off road light using included bracket
24 watts - 1992 lumens each
Brand new in box
Can also be mounted like a normal off road light using included bracket
ARB Locker and 12 ft. SS hose *BNIB*
dimanche 28 décembre 2014
I have a Brand New ARB locker and 12 ft. stainless steel braided hose.
The locker is model # RD-117 and fits just about very Dana 44 if you know what you're doing. It is designated for the newer style non-Rubicon JK Dana 44 Axles with 30 spline shafts but can be used in various other dana 44 applications if you use the "Thick Cut" style JK gears
The Locker and the Stainless hose are Brand new and come complete with everything from the manufacture. Cost of both is over $1100
$800 and will ship or pick-up in So Cal.
The locker is model # RD-117 and fits just about very Dana 44 if you know what you're doing. It is designated for the newer style non-Rubicon JK Dana 44 Axles with 30 spline shafts but can be used in various other dana 44 applications if you use the "Thick Cut" style JK gears
The Locker and the Stainless hose are Brand new and come complete with everything from the manufacture. Cost of both is over $1100
$800 and will ship or pick-up in So Cal.
another 242 swap question thread...
First off I have been off my jeep game for a while so I am feeling like a noob again. Secondly, yes i have searched, just havent found the answer I am looking for, plus there is contradicting info so who knows what's right anymore...
I have 99 wj limited with qudra-drive. The four wheel drive does not work. for instance if I try to climb a hill, the front tires start to grab and then just quit and the rears spin. tried fluid changes, and everything in the front looks fine so my money is on transfer case. I have always offroad my cherokee, so to be honest i was never really a fan of the quadradrive stuff anyways. I want to be able to put my jeep in 4 wheel drive and know that its good to go, instead of hoping the computer has things under control. so here is what i found.
I found a guy with a 2001 I6 with selectrac. this is whats in it.
I am guessing this is not an HD because it is in 4.0 instead of a 4.7. Does that sound correct? also will this swap into mine i read something about input shaft sizes being different. Also will the varilok be ok to use or do I need a new front axle as well?
I have 99 wj limited with qudra-drive. The four wheel drive does not work. for instance if I try to climb a hill, the front tires start to grab and then just quit and the rears spin. tried fluid changes, and everything in the front looks fine so my money is on transfer case. I have always offroad my cherokee, so to be honest i was never really a fan of the quadradrive stuff anyways. I want to be able to put my jeep in 4 wheel drive and know that its good to go, instead of hoping the computer has things under control. so here is what i found.
I found a guy with a 2001 I6 with selectrac. this is whats in it.
I am guessing this is not an HD because it is in 4.0 instead of a 4.7. Does that sound correct? also will this swap into mine i read something about input shaft sizes being different. Also will the varilok be ok to use or do I need a new front axle as well?
Shocks
Looking for a set of bilstein shocks for a yj with 4" lift. Front and rear.
Sent from my portable office
Sent from my portable office
Replacement headliner board/shell source?
Anyone know of a replacement headliner board/shell source for a 1987-ish Cherokee-XJ/Wagoneer-XJ?
Need a new car/truck and it must have a v10
Some of you are probably quietly asking why a v10 and my answer is why not.
Also i seem to always go up in enginesize when buying something new.
Plus it will almost certanly piss some envirohippie off and thats just fun.
Its not going to be used as a DD so mpg are not important.
I have looked a little att Ford excursion is there any known faults with them?
Also i seem to always go up in enginesize when buying something new.
Plus it will almost certanly piss some envirohippie off and thats just fun.
Its not going to be used as a DD so mpg are not important.
I have looked a little att Ford excursion is there any known faults with them?
Can i go 1" bigger?
I'm in the market for new tires for my YJ Wrangler Renegade right now, and I was originally looking at 32x11.50r15. I tried my buddies tire that is that size and is mounted on stock rims (~5" back spacing) and it looked like this Attachment 1768017 And I tried flexing with it (had 200 lbs in passenger seat for this photo) Attachment 1768025 It didn't rub when turning all the way left or right or during that "flex" I'm having a hard time finding 32" tires that I like that are available near me/for a good price. I'm going to be putting on about 3-5" of lift in the spring time as well, and I feel that 32" tires won't look as good. The rims that I will be mounting the tires on have 3.5-4" of back spacing, so 33x12.5r15 tires technically shouldn't stick in to the wheel well farther than the 32" I tried. My question is, based on the pictures and the info I gave, do you think I can get away with 33" tires for the winter? I won't be doing much off-roading, if any, until I get it lifted. I also don't mind a little rub here and there.
Jeep TJ full Console
I have a full length console from a 2001 Wrangler for sale. It is missing the lock assembly.
I will sell it for $125 plus shipping.
I am located in Dickson City, Pa 18519
PM, call, or text me if your interested in the console.
(570) 614-618zero
Ed.
I will sell it for $125 plus shipping.
I am located in Dickson City, Pa 18519
PM, call, or text me if your interested in the console.
(570) 614-618zero
Ed.
Are these wheels off and XJ
I've been looking for some wheels for my TJ when these popped up locally. He says they're off a mid-2000 Cherokee but they don't look familiar to me.
Supposedly 17" off 2000 Cherokee what do you folks say?
Supposedly 17" off 2000 Cherokee what do you folks say?
rustys strut spacers for sale
samedi 27 décembre 2014
Barely used, 4k miles, rustys strut spacers. $35 shipped obo. Posted in classifieds.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f127/...pacer-2915561/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f127/...pacer-2915561/
rustys strut spacer
Barely used Rusty's strut spacer. 1/4" provides 1/2" lift.
Installed last summer, I put 4,000 miles on it since. Just recently installed an RC lift and took these out.
Pm or email: zaktrafton@gmail.com
Will ship priority free.
Installed last summer, I put 4,000 miles on it since. Just recently installed an RC lift and took these out.
Pm or email: zaktrafton@gmail.com
Will ship priority free.
Reverse Lights only in PRN (not DL)
I'm going to add a set of extra reverse lights to my new rear bumper. I have a switch and am familiar with properly wiring a relay to run a set of lights off a switch. It seems like one option is to just run them off a switch from my switch panel. Another would be to run them only with the standard reverse light circuit energizing an additional relay. Neither of those is exactly what I'm looking for.
I'd really like to have my switch panel switch only light up the rear/reverse lights while not in a forward gear.
based on http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Jee...RAMS/13898.pdf it is clear that a switch exists that provides ground only when in park/neutral for the starting circuit. I also see a Power Train Control Module sensing line coming into this switch. I'm sure the PTCM knows how/when the starter circuit is active and can deal with the start switch but I also suspect that whatever is sensing this switch when the starter isn't engaged wouldn't be happy with me also using that switch.
Does anyone know of another location to verify the transmission is in park or neutral other than straight from the switch on the transmission?
-Andrew
I'd really like to have my switch panel switch only light up the rear/reverse lights while not in a forward gear.
based on http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Jee...RAMS/13898.pdf it is clear that a switch exists that provides ground only when in park/neutral for the starting circuit. I also see a Power Train Control Module sensing line coming into this switch. I'm sure the PTCM knows how/when the starter circuit is active and can deal with the start switch but I also suspect that whatever is sensing this switch when the starter isn't engaged wouldn't be happy with me also using that switch.
Does anyone know of another location to verify the transmission is in park or neutral other than straight from the switch on the transmission?
-Andrew
I am looking for pictures and options
I am looking at a 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, I don't do a lot of off roading anymore but I would like to find pics and maybe like to lift it black the rims out, and slap a snorkel on it. for now and put in a double din navi unit. I have been warned about Jeeps by my xterra clan, but I really like them. What do I need to look for?
JK - M.O.R.E. Drivers Dead Pedal
Probably my favorite mod, but sold the Jeep so this needs to find a new home. Only fits JK's equipped with an automatic transmission. $40
PM me or respond to the thread if interested.
Thanks.
PM me or respond to the thread if interested.
Thanks.
trouble starting
I have power from the batter, new starter sylinod, but nothing at the starter..I have checked all my wires and everything is good..I'm totally lost and confuzed..can anyone help me out with a solution. Thank you
1995 zj start up problem
Hello, I just bought this off a guy I knew. knowing I would have to address this. Only flash code is 12 Okay so it has trouble starting. You turn it on, listen to the pump, it sounds like the relay clicks. The engine light blinks. Sometime it takes a few tries, it runs good after. Any input? It's a 1995 5.2
It's much worse in cold,
Any thoughts please
It's much worse in cold,
Any thoughts please
Front end rattle
Bout a year ago I had a bad rattle coming from the front on whenever my 97 was moving. The noise was based off how fast I was going. It was not effected by engine speed it braking. I took it to a local off-road shop and they "tightened some nuts and bolts". The noise went away but I came back the other day when I hit a bump. Sounds the same as before and had the same symptoms. One thing I noticed that is weird is when I drive through a puddle the noise goes away for 30 seconds to a minute. In an effort to avoid going to the shop again does anyone have any suggestions on what I might be able to do on my own.
99 no power
I have a 99xj 4.0 and was running great. After driving and parking went to restart and nothing no lights, radio, nothing. Took out and checked all fuses that went to ing starter batt etc.. put all back in and it fired right up radio had reset that was it. Drove to work the next day no issue. On the way home ( 7 miles) about 3 blocks away check gauges light comes on and volt gauge is pegged at 19. Got home fine shut it off tried restarting nothing again. Went out in the morning turned right over no issues. Ive been reading could be a Crankshaft position sensor giving bad reading when jeep reaches temp. Also alternator, battery. Going to look at it today or tomorrow any help is appreciated.
Gr8Tops Roof Top Tent
As anyone gotten the Gr8tops roof top tent? Their website has it for $850. It's as good a rice as I've seen anywhere for one of those. I suspect it's not as high quality as some of the more well known brands but I'm curious.
Mml install
vendredi 26 décembre 2014
SO I installed my brown dog mml into the tj today. Thing is I did not have to take the bracket off the block to clear the ac. Ac wasn't a factor. Is it only certain years that interferes with the ac!
Intel i7-5930k Brand New and Sealed
I have a brand new i7-5930k that I bought to use in a computer build but decided to go in a different direction, so now I have an extra i7 processor that I have no use for.
Specs of the 5930k from ark.intel.com
This processor is a serious powerhouse that would work great in one heck of a gaming rig or anything that needs serious CPU power.
I'd like 500 shipped for the processor as they are selling (under completed listings if you want to look yourself) for approximately $520-$535 on eBay, but I would much rather get this to someone on here.
Message or comment with any questions. :thumbsup:
Specs of the 5930k from ark.intel.com
This processor is a serious powerhouse that would work great in one heck of a gaming rig or anything that needs serious CPU power.
I'd like 500 shipped for the processor as they are selling (under completed listings if you want to look yourself) for approximately $520-$535 on eBay, but I would much rather get this to someone on here.
Message or comment with any questions. :thumbsup:
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