Well I have some tips that will help make things easier. I initially thought I had the 45rfe, but like an idiot didn't count the pan bolts (build sheet lies). Luckily I noticed before dropping the pan to install a Transgo kit. I returned it and ended up with a Transgo Sk604. Btw, I searched and besides the picture-less how to, and a couple threads, I couldn't find much (most were JK). So in an attempt to help future installers out I have a few tips.
1) Buy 3 or 4 turkey basting pans to work with. No matter what you do, junk will be all in your first pan when you start to take apart the vb. I lined mine with shop towels. A few pans help give a place to set your cleaned parts.
2) Don't try to d**k around trying to unplug the solenoid connector from the top. The shift range plug isn't bad (without front driveshaft), but the solenoid plug is impossible. Remove the 4 torx bolts holding the solenoid housing to the v/b before you unbolt it. Once you lower the v/b the solenoid housing will hang by the wires. Then you can pull the wires thru and easily unplug it. It can be plugged in from the top, and the red lock pin slid fairly easy, so bolt the housing back on before installing the v/b.
3) The shift lever arm needs to be all the way to the rear to loosen the nut. It has to be all the way forward before pulling the arm off the shift shaft. The parking prawl rod doesn't keep you from dropping the v/b (with arm all the way to the front).
4) Before reinstalling the v/b, rotate the shift shaft all the way clockwise. Make sure the lip of the parking prawl rod is in the bracket. From searching, guys seem to not have it locked into the bracket for some reason. They try to line it up and balance it. You'll have enough to worry about.
I didn't get many pictures, but here's what i got.
Trans with v/b removed
Here's the v/b with solenoid housing removed so I could easily unplug the connector. I was getting my pans lined up and tools ready
Take your time and pay attention. I somehow managed to get a check ball in the wrong spot, so I wasted about $80 in fluids and a few more hours. As far as the accumulator pistons/springs, there are no tips besides you gotta hold your mouth just right. Whoever came up with that balancing act needs to be shot. Hope this helps some guys out who are thinking of doing it. I'm pleased with the results. The shifts are much faster and very smooth. My low rpm shudder in od is gone as well.
1) Buy 3 or 4 turkey basting pans to work with. No matter what you do, junk will be all in your first pan when you start to take apart the vb. I lined mine with shop towels. A few pans help give a place to set your cleaned parts.
2) Don't try to d**k around trying to unplug the solenoid connector from the top. The shift range plug isn't bad (without front driveshaft), but the solenoid plug is impossible. Remove the 4 torx bolts holding the solenoid housing to the v/b before you unbolt it. Once you lower the v/b the solenoid housing will hang by the wires. Then you can pull the wires thru and easily unplug it. It can be plugged in from the top, and the red lock pin slid fairly easy, so bolt the housing back on before installing the v/b.
3) The shift lever arm needs to be all the way to the rear to loosen the nut. It has to be all the way forward before pulling the arm off the shift shaft. The parking prawl rod doesn't keep you from dropping the v/b (with arm all the way to the front).
4) Before reinstalling the v/b, rotate the shift shaft all the way clockwise. Make sure the lip of the parking prawl rod is in the bracket. From searching, guys seem to not have it locked into the bracket for some reason. They try to line it up and balance it. You'll have enough to worry about.
I didn't get many pictures, but here's what i got.
Trans with v/b removed
Here's the v/b with solenoid housing removed so I could easily unplug the connector. I was getting my pans lined up and tools ready
Take your time and pay attention. I somehow managed to get a check ball in the wrong spot, so I wasted about $80 in fluids and a few more hours. As far as the accumulator pistons/springs, there are no tips besides you gotta hold your mouth just right. Whoever came up with that balancing act needs to be shot. Hope this helps some guys out who are thinking of doing it. I'm pleased with the results. The shifts are much faster and very smooth. My low rpm shudder in od is gone as well.
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