I think a 14" Fan and 1" Spacer should fit in the shroud about right, anybody have any pictures?
1998 wrangler 4.0 sport suddenly dies
Twice this has happened. I'm driving along, all is well. Suddenly, ALL dash gauges stop working, no radio or lights and the engine dies. This only last for a second or 2 and then everything comes right back on like nothing ever happened and the engine runs again. It's like there is a sudden total electrical disconnect. So I'm thinking maybe a loose main ground wire, if there is such a thing.
So my questions are (obviously):
1. What would cause this? (does a loose or corroded ground sound possible or could this be something else)
2. Where are the main ground points on my wrangler for the electrical system?
Thanks for all your help in advance
So my questions are (obviously):
1. What would cause this? (does a loose or corroded ground sound possible or could this be something else)
2. Where are the main ground points on my wrangler for the electrical system?
Thanks for all your help in advance
Recommended Battery Tie Down Product???
Can someone recommend a product for tying down my battery in my 2006 TJ? Standard size battery (Sears Diehard Platinum).
Thank you in advance.
Thank you in advance.
Lookin for Procomp 152 fake beadlock wheel
Help... My boy has three 15 x8 Procomp 152 fake beadlocks sitting in the shop and he needs one more to use for a spare offroad setup.
So... I am looking for one 15 x 8 4.5 bolt pattern for a TJ Procomp 152 fake or simulated (as the call it) beadlock wheel. I will post a picture for reference.
Thanks,
Mike
So... I am looking for one 15 x 8 4.5 bolt pattern for a TJ Procomp 152 fake or simulated (as the call it) beadlock wheel. I will post a picture for reference.
Thanks,
Mike
Gm turbo 400 and Chevy 350
Hey guys I have a gm turbo 400 I wanna put into my cj with a 350 v8. I was wondering what type of tcase I would need. The output shaft is a 4.5" shaft from the back of the housing. I read somewhere that the 205 would work and other people said the 208 would work. Need to know what will work best
Black Sheep 4x4s Lazy Springs Ride 06.28.14 photos.
Black Sheep 4x4s Lazy Springs Ride 06.28.14 photos.
We had such a blast. Great people and lots of fun and food.
To see the rest of our photos go to http://ift.tt/1q8QJDg
Or
http://ift.tt/1ohsSzs
We had such a blast. Great people and lots of fun and food.
To see the rest of our photos go to http://ift.tt/1q8QJDg
Or
http://ift.tt/1ohsSzs
Summer jeep fest!!!
Looks like ROKMEN is doing it again :thumbsup:
http://ift.tt/1nXviSa
Having been to both their events so far this year I know it will be more than good! They have just had sick Jeeps in attendance and lots of them!
They also say the MicroBrewery will be open :D
http://ift.tt/1nXviSa
Having been to both their events so far this year I know it will be more than good! They have just had sick Jeeps in attendance and lots of them!
They also say the MicroBrewery will be open :D
Poly Door Hinge Bushings
dimanche 29 juin 2014
Magnitude Engineering's premium line of replacement bushings for Jeep Wrangler door hinges will allow you to replace your deteriorated, worn out, or missing OEM bushings with ease. Whether you are trying eliminate unsightly rust, compensate for years of wear, fix that door that won't latch properly, or prevent potentially damaging leaks due to door misalignment; replacing your bushings is the simplest and most cost effective way to improve the appearance and operation of your door.
Simply remove the old bushings if necessary and insert new ones in their place without the extra time and expense of purchasing new hinges, removing the old ones, prepping and painting, or aligning. As opposed to replacing your hinges, replacing only your bushing minimizes the risk stripping a screw or damaging paint.
Magnitude Engineering's premium replacement bushings are precision machined from high lubricity Delrin® bar. They firmly support loads in both the radial and axial directions due to their full length barrel and flange. Because of the self-lubricating nature of the material, these bushings do not require additional lubrication. Unlike OEM bushings that are roll-formed from flat sheets of laminated material, these solid bushings will not flake apart or delaminate.
Visit the Magnitude Engineering website for more information or to purchase at:
http://ift.tt/1lqSaXy
Simply remove the old bushings if necessary and insert new ones in their place without the extra time and expense of purchasing new hinges, removing the old ones, prepping and painting, or aligning. As opposed to replacing your hinges, replacing only your bushing minimizes the risk stripping a screw or damaging paint.
Magnitude Engineering's premium replacement bushings are precision machined from high lubricity Delrin® bar. They firmly support loads in both the radial and axial directions due to their full length barrel and flange. Because of the self-lubricating nature of the material, these bushings do not require additional lubrication. Unlike OEM bushings that are roll-formed from flat sheets of laminated material, these solid bushings will not flake apart or delaminate.
Visit the Magnitude Engineering website for more information or to purchase at:
http://ift.tt/1lqSaXy
Weld on rock rails.
Looking to go to weld on rock rails in some form or shape. I currently have ones that bolt on through the body mounts. They have taken a beaten and have flexed so much that they have cracked the frame portion of the body mount.
But for the people who had them welded onto the frame rail did you do anything to prevent rust on the inside of the frame where the factory coating got burnt off? Thinking about Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Anyone use this stuff is it any good?
But for the people who had them welded onto the frame rail did you do anything to prevent rust on the inside of the frame where the factory coating got burnt off? Thinking about Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Anyone use this stuff is it any good?
2005 Jeep Wrangler
I've been looking at a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon with 77,8XX miles on it. It has never been in any accidents and has had all scheduled maintenance, I'm wanting to buy it to use as an everyday vehicle and to go off-road in. Good idea or should I get a different model?
After market tail light fail.
Anyone running the attached tails, check your mounts where the 2 screws go.
One light, both mounts failed, the other, the top one failed, the bottom one was failing.
Seems the plastic gets brittle and shatters. The pieces of the mount was hard anf brittle and fell apart in my hands.
I pretty sure its the plastic going bad, as there was no other damage to the tails (someone prying them off) the might have been trying to steal them. But check your mounts just to be safe.
I hade them on about a year of Michigan weather.
http://ift.tt/UYVF1W
One light, both mounts failed, the other, the top one failed, the bottom one was failing.
Seems the plastic gets brittle and shatters. The pieces of the mount was hard anf brittle and fell apart in my hands.
I pretty sure its the plastic going bad, as there was no other damage to the tails (someone prying them off) the might have been trying to steal them. But check your mounts just to be safe.
I hade them on about a year of Michigan weather.
http://ift.tt/UYVF1W
Need help installing a after market temp guage
So I just did a closed to open cooling system swap on my 89 XJ 4.0L replacing the factory radiator with a Spectra CU1193 radiator and I also replaced all the hoses, water pump, T-stat and housing, fan clutch and installed a overflow bottle as well.
I tried to install a after market mechanical water temp gauge in the T-stat housing but I didn't have enough room for the probe. I applied sealant to the threads to get it to hold and not leak. It worked the first day and showed a reading of 195 but last night the gauge started to malfunction and showed a low reading and today its not even working. Before anyone points it out I know you are not supposed put sealant on the threads.
Here is the cheap Sunpro Gauge I picked up at Autozone: http://ift.tt/Vydqpt
What are my options now? Is there some kind of extended adapter that I could possibly pick up at a hardware store/online? Thanks
Joseph
I tried to install a after market mechanical water temp gauge in the T-stat housing but I didn't have enough room for the probe. I applied sealant to the threads to get it to hold and not leak. It worked the first day and showed a reading of 195 but last night the gauge started to malfunction and showed a low reading and today its not even working. Before anyone points it out I know you are not supposed put sealant on the threads.
Here is the cheap Sunpro Gauge I picked up at Autozone: http://ift.tt/Vydqpt
What are my options now? Is there some kind of extended adapter that I could possibly pick up at a hardware store/online? Thanks
Joseph
yj 350 wiring help!
I am in process of doing 350 700r4 swap in 93 yj I am starting on wiring, I have the starter wired and it cranks. Need help wiring up alternator, using alternator from 350 86 pickup. Question is what wires from jeep wiring do I wire to alternator? This one has plug in with 2 red wires and another red wire bolted on alternator? I actually have wiring to this from pickup if I could splice into it with jeep wiring so I can still use plug with 2 red wires. just don't know where to splice too. Also going to vacuum advance only single wire distributor what wire do in need to hook up to this? Any help, or links would be appreciated
Made a discovery while replacing drive train parts
I found out that My 1994 Jeep has a (Peugeot BA-10/5 5-speed manual jeep transmission.) I replaced the original 4.0 liter engine 6 yrs ago. I purchased a rebuilt ATK 1988 Comanche block, crate engine) But When we went to find the correct transmission mount, There was a bit of a surprise. The 1994 mount was incorrect for the 5 speed. Later we found the correct mount. It was for 1988 Comanche series mount, It fits like a glove. So I guess I have a Comanche drive train in my 1994 Cherokee Sport:rofl:
Are these pretty tough drive trains?
Are these pretty tough drive trains?
new to me xj
samedi 28 juin 2014
Hi all. New member introducing myself. I bought a 2014 wrangler unlimited in January and about a month ago I picked up a 92 xj Laredo for the misses. Been reading forums on upgrades and such so I decided to post some of the things ive done and looking for any suggestions on the next upgrades to consider. Purchased not running with 174 on the odometer. Needed entire fuel system replaced due to rust from sitting.i upgraded the injectors remand from a neon, and put in a higher flowing fpr. Did a tune up and she runs like a champ. Purchased a 4.5" x series from rough country and love the way it turned out. The 31 bfgs really look good with the 1.5" wheel spacers. in the near future I plan to regear and install a SYE. Eventually I will add bumpers and a winch but I want to put the lift on my wrangler before that.
Heres the before and after lift pics
Heres the before and after lift pics
Front brake line removal and reinstall help
I am replacing the front passenger side brake line from my '85 CJ-7. This is the hard line from the proportioning valve to the frame near the wheel.
I have disconnected the line at each end and removed all of the mounting tabs and screws. How in the world to I get the line out, much less get the new line in without damaging it? It runs above the steering box and above the 2 steering hoses. The brake line makes a right angle in that corner. Although I have the line loose, I don't see how it's going to side out and I really don't see how I can get the new line in without severely bending it.
I can cut the old line to get it out, but getting in the new line is the real trick. Do I need to pull the grill, radiator, and possibly the steering box to get into this corner?
Any advise here would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I have disconnected the line at each end and removed all of the mounting tabs and screws. How in the world to I get the line out, much less get the new line in without damaging it? It runs above the steering box and above the 2 steering hoses. The brake line makes a right angle in that corner. Although I have the line loose, I don't see how it's going to side out and I really don't see how I can get the new line in without severely bending it.
I can cut the old line to get it out, but getting in the new line is the real trick. Do I need to pull the grill, radiator, and possibly the steering box to get into this corner?
Any advise here would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Steering Wheel Buttons don't work (I think)
On my (new to me) 12 Grand Cherokee - I have 3 arrow buttons on the left spoke of the steering wheel, as well as the phone and the other one. I can't get any thing to happen with the arrow buttons - like tire pressure, engine temp or anything. Am I doing something wrong? My wife is able to use the hands free telephone option, but I'm only interested in engine status and such. I have read the owners manual but I guess my reading comprehension is not what it should be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Axle swap help
Hey guys! I just bought some axles from a guy, I was wondering if you guys could give a noobie like me some help with fitting these under my jeep!
It is a 1999 xj, I have about 4" of lift (I dont want any more lift).
My questions are; what kind of modifications do I have to make to fit these axles under my jeep? Will I have to trim my fenders at all?( I dont want to cut them because I am afraid it will hurt my trade in value) I think the tires are 35" tall. Speaking of tires, this is my daily driver, How hard is it to balance tires? I dont want death wobble.(who does?:2thumbsup: hehe) Also I saw a post talking about a truss, how do I attach it to the axle? I made a template out of poster board. What kind of material should I make it out of? I would like aluminium, I dont want to hurt my gas mileage because it is my daily driver and metal is heavy.
Thanks in advance for the help guys!! happy jeeping!!:cheers:
It is a 1999 xj, I have about 4" of lift (I dont want any more lift).
My questions are; what kind of modifications do I have to make to fit these axles under my jeep? Will I have to trim my fenders at all?( I dont want to cut them because I am afraid it will hurt my trade in value) I think the tires are 35" tall. Speaking of tires, this is my daily driver, How hard is it to balance tires? I dont want death wobble.(who does?:2thumbsup: hehe) Also I saw a post talking about a truss, how do I attach it to the axle? I made a template out of poster board. What kind of material should I make it out of? I would like aluminium, I dont want to hurt my gas mileage because it is my daily driver and metal is heavy.
Thanks in advance for the help guys!! happy jeeping!!:cheers:
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
I have a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve Model F101S for sale.
It is new and only installed for a few minutes before I realized it is too close to my custom oil pan skid plate to be of use to me.
It fits my 1997 Jeep TJ with a 6 cylinder engine. I am not sure what other vehicles it fits. Here is a link to Fumoto’s website tool to determine if it is the right one for your Jeep.
It originally cost me $30.00 plus shipping.
I am asking $15.00 OBO. If you want it shipped, add $5.00 to the price.
It is new and only installed for a few minutes before I realized it is too close to my custom oil pan skid plate to be of use to me.
It fits my 1997 Jeep TJ with a 6 cylinder engine. I am not sure what other vehicles it fits. Here is a link to Fumoto’s website tool to determine if it is the right one for your Jeep.
It originally cost me $30.00 plus shipping.
I am asking $15.00 OBO. If you want it shipped, add $5.00 to the price.
trying to find the cave tunnel
heelo can anyonr give me some directions or gps coordinates to the cave tunnel you can drive throu south of little moab?
Rehear stock 2003 TJ
I know this has been covered but I'm looking for specific opinions on re-gearing to 3.73 or 4.10 only on a stock, standard, TJ with 30" tires and no lift. I only do back roads and will never lift it or go bigger than 31" tires. Also will put in a locker and maybe a Super 35. I want to get better use of 5th gear without making 1st range too short. Live in BC so lots of hills. Also, I tow the Jeep behind my camper. Appreciate your thoughts.
Compressor or other aircon problem
Hi
I have trawled the forums for my fault I hope someone may point me in the right direction.
I bought a 2002 overland 4.7 that needed work it had blend door issues so I had the whole heater unit replaced now the blend doors all work.
Now the issue is the aircon was regassed but the compressors clutch will not kick in, I have checked all connections.
There is power to the fuse box and if you jump the 2 connectors under the clutch relay under the hood the compressor will run and the car gets cold, I did this just to see if the compressor was working.
With the compressor running the car idles a little rough and I noticed fine specs of a spray like substance, oily on the front of the plastic radiator cover.
I do like the jeep as I bought it as mechanically she is spot on and hope I can rectify this issue
Any pointers will be appreciated
Regards Mark
I have trawled the forums for my fault I hope someone may point me in the right direction.
I bought a 2002 overland 4.7 that needed work it had blend door issues so I had the whole heater unit replaced now the blend doors all work.
Now the issue is the aircon was regassed but the compressors clutch will not kick in, I have checked all connections.
There is power to the fuse box and if you jump the 2 connectors under the clutch relay under the hood the compressor will run and the car gets cold, I did this just to see if the compressor was working.
With the compressor running the car idles a little rough and I noticed fine specs of a spray like substance, oily on the front of the plastic radiator cover.
I do like the jeep as I bought it as mechanically she is spot on and hope I can rectify this issue
Any pointers will be appreciated
Regards Mark
Removing body lift, what size bolts??
I am going to remove the 2 inch body lift from my son's 95 Rio Grande. What size bolts do I need to replace the long ones that are there now with the 2 inch pucks?
Cutting across the tub...
vendredi 27 juin 2014
I'm going to cut off my tub midway and splice on another tub I have to stretch it. Problem is I'm having trouble figuring out a way to cut it dead on all the way across. So the sides line up with the floor so I can easily stitch weld it back up.
I tried to find a laser level at Home Depot, Ace, and HF. They don't carry the small yellow one anymore, only the $200+ contraption. Not that important to me. :laugh:
ANyone have any ideas on how to get the sides lined up with the floor? Has to easily be copied over to the spare tub 8 inches longer. My mind has ran out of ideas...
I tried to find a laser level at Home Depot, Ace, and HF. They don't carry the small yellow one anymore, only the $200+ contraption. Not that important to me. :laugh:
ANyone have any ideas on how to get the sides lined up with the floor? Has to easily be copied over to the spare tub 8 inches longer. My mind has ran out of ideas...
What is this?
Hey guys, I'm new to the jeep world. Bought an 02 wrangler a couple weeks ago with 80,000 miles and put a 4" lift and bumper on it. Anyways, there is a big solenoid lookin thing by the drivers seat and I'm not really sure what it is. I think it has something to do with being pulled behind a motorhome because it has a breakaway switch by the bumper. Can anyone tell me what it is and how much it's worth? I don't need it so I figure i'll sell it if its worth anything. :thumbsup:
Check engine light
Has anyone ever had this problem?... I go to emissions to get my sticker and they are failing me because the check engine light will not come on! I have searched forum and cant seem to find any threads on it. If someone could point me in the right direction I sure would appreciate it.
As I was searching for the info I sure did find a lot of projects I want to start...what a great forum...
As I was searching for the info I sure did find a lot of projects I want to start...what a great forum...
Multiple codes - P0153 now p0151 and p0175? Could this be OPDA related?
Yesterday I had a p0153 code show up and it idle rough briefly at stoplights with the A/C but otherwise ran fine. Today I disconnected the battery and cleared that code but after the third start, p0151 appeared. So I tried clearing the codes again and it worked but after a starting it on the third time, p0175 appeared along with p0151 but p0153 is gone. Neither p0175 nor p0151 will go away for long by clearing the codes. I checked all the wiring and vacuum lines, everything looks 100%.
I remembered that recently I changed the OPDA/CPS to a crown unit using the crown supplied CPS sensor (05-06 CPS Issue, crown made a replacement OPDA to solve it) and I'm now wondering if it's related to this issue? The Dorman unit I had in before I used the mopar CPS sensor on the Dorman OPDA.
Or is this simply a bad bank 2 upstream 02 sensor causing p0175 along with p0151, it is the original 02 sensor? I've already order both NTK upstream sensors just in case from Rockauto. Thanks for any help you can provide.
I remembered that recently I changed the OPDA/CPS to a crown unit using the crown supplied CPS sensor (05-06 CPS Issue, crown made a replacement OPDA to solve it) and I'm now wondering if it's related to this issue? The Dorman unit I had in before I used the mopar CPS sensor on the Dorman OPDA.
Or is this simply a bad bank 2 upstream 02 sensor causing p0175 along with p0151, it is the original 02 sensor? I've already order both NTK upstream sensors just in case from Rockauto. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Transmission change
Right now I have the original 3 speed manual(geared really low). I want to convert to a more "highway and road suitable" transmission. any tips?
Tramp Stamp
Poison Spyder tramp stamp for newer JK with bigger vent hole.
$50 shipped
Mooresville NC
Can email pic. File too big
$50 shipped
Mooresville NC
Can email pic. File too big
walmart and advance auto now sell ATF+4 ....
well its news to my eyes I don't know how long they have carried it but I noticed in walmart the ATF +4 and advance auto parts has it also. I think the mopar gallon cost me $22 ... so why would you buy a $6 qt at advance ??? ...
is all this ATF+4 the same????
is all this ATF+4 the same????
1999 Jeep TJ Lifted ready to go!
Well its time to get a more fuel efficient car. Theres No accidents, 140,500 and going up fast! Its my daily driver and I drive 100 miles a day because of work. I have new upper rear CA that still need to be put on. I just custom did the fenders and washed, waxed and did a 3 coat buffer pass on it. The frame is solid. I just did a complete front end break job as well. Other than that everything else is Solid and well maintained. Ill list everything I got for her below and details. Thanks for looking.
I6, 140,500miles
4" Skyjacker lift
Regeared (I have no idea to what but its back in the powerband)
Aluminum radiator replaced when I bought it 2 years ago
New rear lower control arms replaced December
New Spicer ball joints
New Rotors,Pads, Calipers
New rear upper control arms (in box not on yet) , will prolly do myself soon
Hard top with factory tint (missing rear wiper)
Soft top pavement ends tinted (clear windows, no tears, good zippers)
Brand New 33" Discover STT's put on March 15th this year and are rotated every month due to the amount of miles I drive. NO Wobble, I do 70 plus to work and its pretty smooth.
Manik brush guard
Cobra CB radio and older version firestick antenna installed
12,000lb Badlands Winch (used handful of times, inside winch controls)
Half doors with slider uppers
Full doors from YJ made to fit (I used them as trail doors) Same Color
New front and rear Track Bar
New Battery replaced October last year
All pioneer speakers with 600w Sony amp and 10" kicker sub behind the rear seat
New Fuel Tank
New Fuel Tank full wrap around skid, both installed December
Costume Made Rear Swing Arm with Lock
3 Keys, one of which is the custom rock key from Quadratec
Frame was sanded and por-15 when I bought it
9,000 OBO. Would like to sell it before I rack up too many miles. I have a lot more pics too so if you need more information please feel free to email.
Thanks for looking
I6, 140,500miles
4" Skyjacker lift
Regeared (I have no idea to what but its back in the powerband)
Aluminum radiator replaced when I bought it 2 years ago
New rear lower control arms replaced December
New Spicer ball joints
New Rotors,Pads, Calipers
New rear upper control arms (in box not on yet) , will prolly do myself soon
Hard top with factory tint (missing rear wiper)
Soft top pavement ends tinted (clear windows, no tears, good zippers)
Brand New 33" Discover STT's put on March 15th this year and are rotated every month due to the amount of miles I drive. NO Wobble, I do 70 plus to work and its pretty smooth.
Manik brush guard
Cobra CB radio and older version firestick antenna installed
12,000lb Badlands Winch (used handful of times, inside winch controls)
Half doors with slider uppers
Full doors from YJ made to fit (I used them as trail doors) Same Color
New front and rear Track Bar
New Battery replaced October last year
All pioneer speakers with 600w Sony amp and 10" kicker sub behind the rear seat
New Fuel Tank
New Fuel Tank full wrap around skid, both installed December
Costume Made Rear Swing Arm with Lock
3 Keys, one of which is the custom rock key from Quadratec
Frame was sanded and por-15 when I bought it
9,000 OBO. Would like to sell it before I rack up too many miles. I have a lot more pics too so if you need more information please feel free to email.
Thanks for looking
2014 GC Limited 4x2
Hey Everyone! I've been lurking this forum for a little while as I was doing my research and I finally got my brand new Jeep today! I look forward to the vast knowledge you all can bestow upon newbies like myself! :)
Peeling paint......
jeudi 26 juin 2014
Attachment 1436906
Attachment 1436914
Attachment 1436922
Is there a separate warranty for paint? These pics are from the hinges on my hood. I guess it's from water sitting. The Paint is otherwise in excellent shape, Jeep is 4 years old with maybe 16k on it....
Attachment 1436914
Attachment 1436922
Is there a separate warranty for paint? These pics are from the hinges on my hood. I guess it's from water sitting. The Paint is otherwise in excellent shape, Jeep is 4 years old with maybe 16k on it....
Moving to Baltimore
Hey guys. Around mid-August the girlfriend and I are going to be moving into Catonsville and I will be working in New Carrollton. Just seeing who lives in/near this area. :cheers2:
JK Wiring Question
I am wanting to install a lite bar,and have heard that wiring the lites to my headlites will cause a sensor problem? Anyone here of that?
999 transmission case with CPS and valvebody
From a '99 Wrangler 4.0L. Valvebody (needs cleaning), almost bare case, dipstick tube and used crank sensor. $100 plus shipping unless it's a local pickup.
Rear axel help please!!
Hello everyone, I have been tracking doen a popping noise and am getting the u joints done tomorrow. The rear though is a diff stor. I just took off the rear wheel and there is play in it. I can push the axel back and forth about an 8th of an inch. Could this be causing my pops and if so what the heck could it be? All help is greatly appreciated.
tuffy box
Discontinued and has no model number on it. 35 7/16" wide by 29 1/2" deep by 16" high. Top hinged on gas shocks with LED light on plunger switch. Also has removable tailgate panel measuring 27 1/4" wide by 15" high. Has 2 factory cam style locks on top and a center latch to open. Purchased recently from a YJ. Can be used in a TJ or LJ with carpet and seat belts removed. Asking $300 in northeast Pa. Possible delivery to Chrysler Carlisle show, 4 Wheel Jamboree in Bloomsburg, or All Breeds show in York Pa. Pics by text or email.
mulitplaz anyone try one
stumbled upon this the other day http://ift.tt/1lZGNvp check out a few of the videos http://ift.tt/1lZGPU9
almost seems to good to be true, found some limited info online; but it seems incredibly versatile. I called the company and got some more info
Some specs
• Weld (steel/aluminum/copper/stainless/cast)
• Cut (steel/aluminum/copper/stainless/cast plus other stuff like ceramic tiles or any other nonconductive materials)
• solders and brazes
• Pulls 9.6 amps at 110v or 5amp at 220v (those aren’t a typo, WOW!)
• Consumes tap water + isopropyl alcohol (the stuff you get at Walmart for like a $1). 3 oz’s per 20 minutes of work
• Uses standard welding rods (non flux)
• Proprietary rods for copper/cast
I have arc and wire feed experience; this would be arc style in the sense that you use rods to weld vs. a wire feed scenario. But this is also shielded so you would get the pretty wire feed welds vs. the nasty flux welds of arc or non shielded.
Anyone every play with one of these?
almost seems to good to be true, found some limited info online; but it seems incredibly versatile. I called the company and got some more info
Some specs
• Weld (steel/aluminum/copper/stainless/cast)
• Cut (steel/aluminum/copper/stainless/cast plus other stuff like ceramic tiles or any other nonconductive materials)
• solders and brazes
• Pulls 9.6 amps at 110v or 5amp at 220v (those aren’t a typo, WOW!)
• Consumes tap water + isopropyl alcohol (the stuff you get at Walmart for like a $1). 3 oz’s per 20 minutes of work
• Uses standard welding rods (non flux)
• Proprietary rods for copper/cast
I have arc and wire feed experience; this would be arc style in the sense that you use rods to weld vs. a wire feed scenario. But this is also shielded so you would get the pretty wire feed welds vs. the nasty flux welds of arc or non shielded.
Anyone every play with one of these?
1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 parting out, drivers side and roof damage
I am listing this on ebay under the username "Happycat2ron". Adding more every day, but if you need a specific part, ask I might still have it.
Parting out began mid June 2014, so far one headlight and the automatic trans has sold, the rest is still there. This jeep was parked on its lid, so drivers side and roof damage. Check out ebay for my ongoing list of parts for sale, thanks!
Here is a link to a slideshow of parts listed on ebay:
http://ift.tt/TzPbp9
Parting out began mid June 2014, so far one headlight and the automatic trans has sold, the rest is still there. This jeep was parked on its lid, so drivers side and roof damage. Check out ebay for my ongoing list of parts for sale, thanks!
Here is a link to a slideshow of parts listed on ebay:
http://ift.tt/TzPbp9
Wrangler engine types. . .
mercredi 25 juin 2014
2006 and older 4.0 L - all 3 of my previous jeeps have had this engine and have always been satisfied with the performance and low maintenance.
all 3 have had 200k + and still running strong
2007 - 2011 -- 3.8L I have heard mixed feelings on these as far as power goes. do these engines last? what is your opinion on these engines? what kind of mileage can you get out of these?
2012 - present -- 3.6 L what do you think the track record will be on these? I have heard of head issues on earlier ones and a friend of mine just bought a 2012 JKU last week with 35k on it from a dealer and the engine is toast. Chrysler is putting a brand new short block in it. think these will last?
i'm looking at purchasing a wrangler and am doing my homework before I fork out the cash...
Please, may I have your opinion. thx
all 3 have had 200k + and still running strong
2007 - 2011 -- 3.8L I have heard mixed feelings on these as far as power goes. do these engines last? what is your opinion on these engines? what kind of mileage can you get out of these?
2012 - present -- 3.6 L what do you think the track record will be on these? I have heard of head issues on earlier ones and a friend of mine just bought a 2012 JKU last week with 35k on it from a dealer and the engine is toast. Chrysler is putting a brand new short block in it. think these will last?
i'm looking at purchasing a wrangler and am doing my homework before I fork out the cash...
Please, may I have your opinion. thx
New 08 JKU Rubicon owner- lots of questions?
Hey JK pros, I made the leap from the 2 door old world of carbs and no airbags to the modern 4door world of Jeeps. WOW!!!! what a change...
I have a three month old son and after much debate with the wife and loosing arguements it was deamed that my old beloved CJ,YJ and other Jeeps were no place for an infant... I do agree as all my Jeeps are better suited for weekend trail fun then highway safety, so I (meaning the wife) decided on a new to me 08 JKU Rubicon was safe enough and still fun for the family outings. I have to admit Im still getting used to the plush grocery getter but the Rubi is growing on me. So I have a few questions that I didnt see under the FAQ pages or the many threads Ive crawled..
So my "new" 08 Rubicon Unlimited has only 20K miles on her but is 6 years old. Never been offroad by the original owner and only driven to the train station daily. Im showing a little rust on the seams on the frame and the gas tank skid but very clean other wise. Besides fluids and brakes, anything that are known issues I need to be aware of and check? Any critial mods that I should do day 1?
Anyone have a factory spec sheet that tells me the details of the 08 Rubicon? Im really suprised but not finding a lot of specs and I like to know what I have. I believe its 4:10 gearing and Dana 44 rear, not sure on the front..., NP241 TC, and something like 202HP 280 torq.. Incline/ decline hill angles of 40*, but thats really all I could find. Any other info on the suspension, trans, weak points on the rubicon, water crossing depth, anything really I need to know before over doing it the first time in the Pines?
Also this is my first Jeep with Airbags. Any extra precautions needed to be taken offroad? Can I mount my 12,000lb winch on the stock bumper?(If so does anyone know of winch mount that works witht he factory bumper covers). Worried If I tap or slide over a good size boulder will I blow the airbags? Also I noticed I have no rear tow hooks. Was there a tow hook optionfor 08? any mounting points under the bumper skin? I rather ask then pull the bumpers to look.
lastly anyone replace their lower dash console mesh bin with with the switch plate and want to sell me the old panel with the bin for a few bucks? also looking for the daystar or similar upper dash cover storage tray if you have one laying around.
Sorry if this was a long winded post. I know I have a million other small things I need to find out as I go so will have plenty to post later.
I have a three month old son and after much debate with the wife and loosing arguements it was deamed that my old beloved CJ,YJ and other Jeeps were no place for an infant... I do agree as all my Jeeps are better suited for weekend trail fun then highway safety, so I (meaning the wife) decided on a new to me 08 JKU Rubicon was safe enough and still fun for the family outings. I have to admit Im still getting used to the plush grocery getter but the Rubi is growing on me. So I have a few questions that I didnt see under the FAQ pages or the many threads Ive crawled..
So my "new" 08 Rubicon Unlimited has only 20K miles on her but is 6 years old. Never been offroad by the original owner and only driven to the train station daily. Im showing a little rust on the seams on the frame and the gas tank skid but very clean other wise. Besides fluids and brakes, anything that are known issues I need to be aware of and check? Any critial mods that I should do day 1?
Anyone have a factory spec sheet that tells me the details of the 08 Rubicon? Im really suprised but not finding a lot of specs and I like to know what I have. I believe its 4:10 gearing and Dana 44 rear, not sure on the front..., NP241 TC, and something like 202HP 280 torq.. Incline/ decline hill angles of 40*, but thats really all I could find. Any other info on the suspension, trans, weak points on the rubicon, water crossing depth, anything really I need to know before over doing it the first time in the Pines?
Also this is my first Jeep with Airbags. Any extra precautions needed to be taken offroad? Can I mount my 12,000lb winch on the stock bumper?(If so does anyone know of winch mount that works witht he factory bumper covers). Worried If I tap or slide over a good size boulder will I blow the airbags? Also I noticed I have no rear tow hooks. Was there a tow hook optionfor 08? any mounting points under the bumper skin? I rather ask then pull the bumpers to look.
lastly anyone replace their lower dash console mesh bin with with the switch plate and want to sell me the old panel with the bin for a few bucks? also looking for the daystar or similar upper dash cover storage tray if you have one laying around.
Sorry if this was a long winded post. I know I have a million other small things I need to find out as I go so will have plenty to post later.
Windows/Locks not working. No broken wires.
I have had this issue for a while and have replaced all wires in the drivers side door. I can lock/unlock my drivers side door from the switch on the door. My fob and other switches lock/unlock the rest of the doors. None of my windows work.
2001 limited WJ 4.7
2001 limited WJ 4.7
New Guy from TN.
Evening guys,
I posted my first intro on the TN section earlier today.
So I picked up my first Jeep over the weekend and I'm completely addicted. I went with a 2014 Wrangler Unlimited Sport. Since I've owned it I have been obsessed with Jeep related talk and annoyed the crap out if my co-workers.
I live in Murfreesboro, so if anyone is around me let me know, well hit up a trail or grab a beer or something.
Future mods:
Bumpers front and back.
Roof rack and tent.
Fenders.
Lift and tires will come after some warrentee research.
(Any suggestions are welcome)
If you guys know of local trails you won't get chased off of, fill me in.
Here's some pictures of the day I bought it.
I posted my first intro on the TN section earlier today.
So I picked up my first Jeep over the weekend and I'm completely addicted. I went with a 2014 Wrangler Unlimited Sport. Since I've owned it I have been obsessed with Jeep related talk and annoyed the crap out if my co-workers.
I live in Murfreesboro, so if anyone is around me let me know, well hit up a trail or grab a beer or something.
Future mods:
Bumpers front and back.
Roof rack and tent.
Fenders.
Lift and tires will come after some warrentee research.
(Any suggestions are welcome)
If you guys know of local trails you won't get chased off of, fill me in.
Here's some pictures of the day I bought it.
302? or not.... need input
I am not in need of technical information in this post, i have seen the build threads and putting a 302 in a jeep is straight forward. if ever a man had a question the build threads available on this forum would be more than enough to answer in some capacity.
having said that. :laugh:
i was gifted this 302 out of a bronco.
it was running and blew a head gasket, wouldn't take much to build a good little 302, which i am good at.
but do i really want it in my YJ? its been sitting waiting on me to figure out what i should do. so i am calling on all you small block YJ owners to point this smoke wagon in the right direction.
ive been looking around and just cant get the straight answer :peaking:
its a weekend warrior i like to keep street legal and i live in coastal Texas... so its like Florida without the giant scoop of awesome on top and less old people.... tallest thing around is a bridge here or there so hill climbing isn't an issue to warrant the task.
i am nearly unlimited in terms of tools and shop space, i have a small machine shop and decent weld shop in my back yard.
so ability isn't a problem, its justification.
i like my 2.5 :fistlaugh: not really... :club:
but im not sure if i shold do the 302 swap or grab up a 4.0
couldn't upload a picture for whatever reason... i will work on that.
having said that. :laugh:
i was gifted this 302 out of a bronco.
it was running and blew a head gasket, wouldn't take much to build a good little 302, which i am good at.
but do i really want it in my YJ? its been sitting waiting on me to figure out what i should do. so i am calling on all you small block YJ owners to point this smoke wagon in the right direction.
ive been looking around and just cant get the straight answer :peaking:
its a weekend warrior i like to keep street legal and i live in coastal Texas... so its like Florida without the giant scoop of awesome on top and less old people.... tallest thing around is a bridge here or there so hill climbing isn't an issue to warrant the task.
i am nearly unlimited in terms of tools and shop space, i have a small machine shop and decent weld shop in my back yard.
so ability isn't a problem, its justification.
i like my 2.5 :fistlaugh: not really... :club:
but im not sure if i shold do the 302 swap or grab up a 4.0
couldn't upload a picture for whatever reason... i will work on that.
lift and tire upgrade advice
I have a 2010 jk unlimited with the standard 6 speed transmission. I live in an area where taking it off road doesnt leave me with many options so its primarily an on road vehicle. However I would like to make it look better by maybe adding a small lift and a slightly larger tire. Im interested in any ideas from members who have some experience with this and which lifts and tires they would recommend. Thanks Tom
Looking for Differential Shop Central IL
Hey guys, I need some read diff work, had a little rear rumble (pinion bearing?) and in working on it, made it much much worse. Want someone to go through it and make it perfect. Any ideas?
Q concerning fuel pump/slow cold start
On my '93, I've been having issues for the last month or so with cold starts. First start of the day it has to crank for a good 8-10 seconds before it starts, after which it runs fine. I've been thinking that my problem is the check valve in the fuel pump going bad, causing the fuel line to drain overnight.
So one thing I've been doing to band-aid this, per some others' suggestions, is cycle my key to run-off a few times before attempting to start, which I haven't really seen much of a difference in doing. Today though, while doing this, on the 3rd key cycle, I actually heard the pump prime for a second or so. And again on the 4th, but not on the 5th cycle, and the more I thought about it, I didn't hear it cycle on the first 2 cycles. AND today it started very quickly, within probably 2 seconds of cranking. So now I'm thinking my problem lies elsewhere, like maybe the fuel pump relay is sticking, or it's an ignition switch issue. Does either of these sound plausible?
So one thing I've been doing to band-aid this, per some others' suggestions, is cycle my key to run-off a few times before attempting to start, which I haven't really seen much of a difference in doing. Today though, while doing this, on the 3rd key cycle, I actually heard the pump prime for a second or so. And again on the 4th, but not on the 5th cycle, and the more I thought about it, I didn't hear it cycle on the first 2 cycles. AND today it started very quickly, within probably 2 seconds of cranking. So now I'm thinking my problem lies elsewhere, like maybe the fuel pump relay is sticking, or it's an ignition switch issue. Does either of these sound plausible?
Low Range In-op
4-Wheel drive works in high range and goes into neutral but when trying to get it in low range the lever will not go past the neutral position. Any idea's out there ???
2 piece axle
anyone ever just welded the hubs and axles together? other than thinking you couldn't get the bearings and seals off?
D44 Welding Question
mardi 24 juin 2014
I'm looking for feedback from people who have added a truss & or sleeve to there front D44.
I just purchased a G2 F D44 and want to insure it hold up. I can sleeve it with Nirto Sleeves and Gussets or i can weld a truss on and gussets
both offer there share of issues, based on what i read. I was sold on the truss buy worried welding will wrap my new axle. or the less extreme is to install Nirto sleeves and hope they go in.
What do you recommend?
I just purchased a G2 F D44 and want to insure it hold up. I can sleeve it with Nirto Sleeves and Gussets or i can weld a truss on and gussets
both offer there share of issues, based on what i read. I was sold on the truss buy worried welding will wrap my new axle. or the less extreme is to install Nirto sleeves and hope they go in.
What do you recommend?
HI! Soon-to-be JKU owner with suspension questions.
Hi all! I've been lurking in the shadows for about a week reading various articles here and there, figured it was time i made an account :2thumbsup: Introductions I suppose? 25 year old male paramedic, soon-to-be married, with a 6 year old girl, 16 month old girl, german shepherd, and a house. I grew up in the CA foothills and went crawling on a regular basis with my dad in his YJ, and now in his JK. (he sold the YJ in 2007 for some unknown reason...) I also have very minimal technical experience when it comes to anything other than my old honda civic or chevy cobalt... well, now that thats done:
In short, around august/september I am planning on buying my first jeep!! I'm kinda excited......
Ok REALLY excited.
Anyway, as of now, it's going to be a 2014 JKU Rubicon and I am looking for a little advice when it comes to the suspension/drive shaft/tires.
Basically, as soon as I get it, I'll be installing the Rubicon Express 3.5" Extreme Duty 4-link long arm suspension kit.
My understanding is that with this kit, I will also have to install a new drive shaft, correct?
I'll be trimming the pinch seam- for good measure
Sadly, I plan to roll around on doughnuts for about a month or two after that until i get the money for 35" tires/ 17" wheels... Now, I've seen the chart posted several times, and in the FAQ, which shows the 35's being acceptable when partnered with the 4:1, but I've also seen several people post that they're not acceptable if the transmission is a manual, can anyone explain further or give any first hand accounting as to the practical difference?
Also sicne we're on the subject and since I could not find any posts on the matter, what are your guys' thoughts on manual vs automatic transmission? (I can drive both, but have not 4-wheeled in a manual - willing to learn though)
I know it's a great big wall-o-text, but... Thanks in advance for any help! :thankyou:
Mud
In short, around august/september I am planning on buying my first jeep!! I'm kinda excited......
Ok REALLY excited.
Anyway, as of now, it's going to be a 2014 JKU Rubicon and I am looking for a little advice when it comes to the suspension/drive shaft/tires.
Basically, as soon as I get it, I'll be installing the Rubicon Express 3.5" Extreme Duty 4-link long arm suspension kit.
My understanding is that with this kit, I will also have to install a new drive shaft, correct?
I'll be trimming the pinch seam- for good measure
Sadly, I plan to roll around on doughnuts for about a month or two after that until i get the money for 35" tires/ 17" wheels... Now, I've seen the chart posted several times, and in the FAQ, which shows the 35's being acceptable when partnered with the 4:1, but I've also seen several people post that they're not acceptable if the transmission is a manual, can anyone explain further or give any first hand accounting as to the practical difference?
Also sicne we're on the subject and since I could not find any posts on the matter, what are your guys' thoughts on manual vs automatic transmission? (I can drive both, but have not 4-wheeled in a manual - willing to learn though)
I know it's a great big wall-o-text, but... Thanks in advance for any help! :thankyou:
Mud
New 14, first rain coming.
I got a new 14 sahara unlimited, and looking at these forums has me thinking that leaking during rain is 100% likely. So I figure I'd check if there is anything that could be easily missed when putting on the soft top.
Already learning that the windows need to be tucked into the door frame channel. Anything else?
Really hoping I don't have any leaks, might make me secund guess a awesome jeep.
Already learning that the windows need to be tucked into the door frame channel. Anything else?
Really hoping I don't have any leaks, might make me secund guess a awesome jeep.
98 Grand Cherokee broken piston skirt Atlanta rebuild
Looking for a reputable repair shop in the Atlanta area or up 85 to install a rebuilt motor or to rebuild current motor. Symptoms are consistent with broken piston skirt but no serious damage has been done yet.
Wanted to see if you had recommendations on where to take it to swap engines with a warrantied rebuilt engine or have it rebuilt.
Wanted to see if you had recommendations on where to take it to swap engines with a warrantied rebuilt engine or have it rebuilt.
factory double CV swap question
My jeep has the reprezza at the transfer and CV at axle. I found a double CV shaft at the local junk yard. Were can I find a yoke for the transfer case side to swap them?
Jack Stand Points on Frame Rail
I am going to be removing my front axle. I will be putting jack stands under the reinforced part of the frame rail behind the lower control arm mounts. However, I have the curved jack stand saddles. They don't fit flush with the frame rail.
I do not want to bend the frame rail in by using the jack stands that only contact the frame rail at two points.
What do you do to address this?
I do not want to bend the frame rail in by using the jack stands that only contact the frame rail at two points.
What do you do to address this?
Late Model CJ7 Roll Bar Dims
I was hoping someone could be kind enough to measure a late model CJ7 roll bar for me, ie
across the pipe at the top across the bottom at the mounting plates
depth of the bar from top to floor
and from the front mounting to the back mounting
dims without the padding
freight companies want $300 to $600 because of the cube dims
Guy at Greyhound Bus freight know what a roll bar is and trying to get it for $50/$100 dollars, I want to give him some correct dim not guessimates from my 1979 bar.
worst gets worst 800km round trip to pick it up myself:confused:
many many thanks in advance
Warren
across the pipe at the top across the bottom at the mounting plates
depth of the bar from top to floor
and from the front mounting to the back mounting
dims without the padding
freight companies want $300 to $600 because of the cube dims
Guy at Greyhound Bus freight know what a roll bar is and trying to get it for $50/$100 dollars, I want to give him some correct dim not guessimates from my 1979 bar.
worst gets worst 800km round trip to pick it up myself:confused:
many many thanks in advance
Warren
97 TJ NEED HELP Tire Help!!
I have 35 inch Toyo Open Country on now BUT!!
I want to run 37 inch boggers. but should I stick with a 36" tsl?
What do yall think? do I have enough room? Or should I stick with 35's???
Thank You all in advance! I am torn..
4in lift with 33in tires?
lundi 23 juin 2014
How does a jk unlimited with a 4in lift look with 33? Plan is getting 35's here soon.
Rich
Rich
Jeep 2 Door JK Factory Soft Top- NEW
Selling a brand spanking new soft top from my 2014 JK 2 door. The color is black and it comes with every single nut, washer, bolt, etc to install it on your JK. It also comes with tinted window.
The top and frame are still wrapped in the shipping plastic. The other parts are in the original boxes and are sealed.
I have the Freedom top and the soft top will never be used. So why keep it around when I can save a fellow Jeepers close to $500.......
Local pick up only
Cash only
First one to show the funds gets it
Low ball offers will not be entertained
Might consider partial trades for Orvis fly fishing gear (Helios 2 7 or 8 weight rod, reels, etc)
PM me for pictures and please include your email addy so I can send the pictures.
The top and frame are still wrapped in the shipping plastic. The other parts are in the original boxes and are sealed.
I have the Freedom top and the soft top will never be used. So why keep it around when I can save a fellow Jeepers close to $500.......
Local pick up only
Cash only
First one to show the funds gets it
Low ball offers will not be entertained
Might consider partial trades for Orvis fly fishing gear (Helios 2 7 or 8 weight rod, reels, etc)
PM me for pictures and please include your email addy so I can send the pictures.
2 inch lift with bb spacers?
Ive looked briefly through the threads and have found quite a bit of threads about 3.5 or 4 inch lifts with 2" bb puck spacers added on top. Ive had 2 inch bb spacer for a while and im ready to get a real lift. I know of the clunky ride quality. I want to go at least 4" but want to stay within the range of normal brake line lengths and all of that. I thought of going bigger but it really isnt necessary for my occasional mudding/camping vehicle. I see a lot of quality 3.5 lifts around, but i do want to hit that 4" or more mark. Would it be stupid if i can get a good price on a 2inch coil/shock/control arm lift and then add my spacers for a total four? Or should i just get a 4 inch lift and toss the pucks? I know ride quality will be better with 4 inch lift but there is still quite a price difference. Or are the control arms that come with a 4 inch lift kit better suited and a much better fit for having less problems later on that ones that would come in a 2 inch kit should i use the bb on top? Or will i regret not going bigger than 4"? I appreciate the help. Im sure everyone will sigh when they see 2" bb in the title block lol.
13' Challenger vs JK
Found this on Reddit.
"A drunk driver hit me last night in a 2013, two month old challenger. My jeep saved me from injury. He hit me going 45, while I was at a dead stop. This is the only damage my jeep took. Just needs an alignment and new skid plate."
http://ift.tt/1pDOfwo
http://ift.tt/1pDOfME
"A drunk driver hit me last night in a 2013, two month old challenger. My jeep saved me from injury. He hit me going 45, while I was at a dead stop. This is the only damage my jeep took. Just needs an alignment and new skid plate."
http://ift.tt/1pDOfwo
http://ift.tt/1pDOfME
Jeep Ledger
dimanche 22 juin 2014
Several years ago, Keith Holler had sent out a ledger, created in MS Excel, to track expenditures and information for our jeeps. The file I downloaded is corrupted now so I'm looking to see if anyone has a copy of it still?
Rear end problems
Rear end started making noise the other day. Took off the diff cover, and a dark metallic fluid came out. After some inspection, I noticed the spider gears were very loose and had a lot of play in the left axle (open diff).
My question is, how can I tell what axle ratio it is? I'm 90% sure it's a Dana 35.
It's a 99 WJ limited, with a 4.0L, quadra-tec awd & came with factory hitch and 7 pin trailer plug (would imagine factory tow package).
It's my wife's jeep (she's had a jeep since she could first drive. She's lost without her jeep. We have 2 kids and not a lot of extra money to put into it. Any help with ID of the diff/axle ratio and/or advice on fixing it on a budget, that would be much appreciated. Thanks, Brandon
My question is, how can I tell what axle ratio it is? I'm 90% sure it's a Dana 35.
It's a 99 WJ limited, with a 4.0L, quadra-tec awd & came with factory hitch and 7 pin trailer plug (would imagine factory tow package).
It's my wife's jeep (she's had a jeep since she could first drive. She's lost without her jeep. We have 2 kids and not a lot of extra money to put into it. Any help with ID of the diff/axle ratio and/or advice on fixing it on a budget, that would be much appreciated. Thanks, Brandon
codes
P0645
P0481
P0480
P0141
Messed with the AC the other day trying to get it cooler then it went out. Any suggestions?
P0481
P0480
P0141
Messed with the AC the other day trying to get it cooler then it went out. Any suggestions?
Centre console bin
Hi, folks.
The centre console bin on my 2003/4 Overland 2.7 crd has slots for tapes and cds. Fine, I know what that's for. But the lid has a T shaped slot and a clip which looks as if it might hold a small torch or similar.
Can't find any reference to this in the operators manual. Does anybody know what is supposed to fit in the lid?
Thanks for any help.
The centre console bin on my 2003/4 Overland 2.7 crd has slots for tapes and cds. Fine, I know what that's for. But the lid has a T shaped slot and a clip which looks as if it might hold a small torch or similar.
Can't find any reference to this in the operators manual. Does anybody know what is supposed to fit in the lid?
Thanks for any help.
PCM Blues, 2 Different 'Reman' Units Failed within an Hour of Installing - Ideas?
Let me start at the beginning, for years I have running my '00 4.7 with a perpetual P0443 EVAP Solenoid code - to the point that my CEL bulb died and I though it was corrected after I changed the solenoid.
Fast forward a few years and I failed emissions inspection in NY (the Jeep had been sitting around for a while, I rehabbed it, registered and insured it then went for safety and emissions inspection and failed the emissions).
Over the last year I have been trying to get to the bottom of the CEL code and replaced every EVAP hose, connector, gas cap, and even the LDC pump. The conclusion was that something isn't right with the PCM and it needs to be replaced.
I took a gamble on a Reman unit from those shady charterers in FL (off eBay) and got a franken-PCM, it looked butchered (see pix) but I took a chance and installed it. The Jeep started up just fine, ran nice, idled better then it has in a while and most importantly, I felt the EVAP solenoid working!
Problem solved, right? WRONG!
After letting it run for nearly a half hour I shut it down and an hour later took a half hour drive. Along the way the engine stumbled once and shut down and started right back up after throwing it in neutral and turning the key.
Continued to my destination (Costco) parked and went shopping. About 45 minutes later I went back to the Jeep and tried starting it up. Off the bat I noticed something not right, the gauges did not come to life like they usually do - gas stayed flat, same for voltage and temp and most disturbing was no light from the CEL, just the immobilizer light and the check gauges light lit up.
I knew right away that the PCM and the rest of the Jeep weren't talking, so for the heck of it I tried cranking it and it did turn over but did not start.
Called my wife, had her bring the old PCM and my tools over and switched the old PCM in and it started right up and drove home. Needless to say that the CEL with my old P0443 came right back.
Called the FL company and they said they would take the PCM back and refund, asked if I wanted a replacement I said no thank you and went on searching for a new PCM.
I heard some good things about the Reman PCMs from A1 Cardone, so I bit the bullet and ordered one ($341) through AutoZone. Gave them my VIN and mileage and got the new unit on Friday.
Off the bat this unit felt right, looked good and not butchered. All excited, I went and installed right away.
And the problems started again!
After letting it run for 5 minutes the engine stumbled and shut down, I restarted it and it ran for another minute and shut down again and this time there same thing that happened in the Costco parking lot happened again. No communication with the PCM.
Frustrated I left it over the weekend and brooded... Then this morning I figured 'what the hell' and tried starting it and lo-and-behold it started!
Now I am left scratching my head, what the hell happened? Obviously the new unit is not the problem, and I wonder if the FL PCM was really bad to begin with - or if the Jeep ate it...
So any thoughts? Is there a 'safe mode' which is shutting down the PCM to protect it? Something else?
Fast forward a few years and I failed emissions inspection in NY (the Jeep had been sitting around for a while, I rehabbed it, registered and insured it then went for safety and emissions inspection and failed the emissions).
Over the last year I have been trying to get to the bottom of the CEL code and replaced every EVAP hose, connector, gas cap, and even the LDC pump. The conclusion was that something isn't right with the PCM and it needs to be replaced.
I took a gamble on a Reman unit from those shady charterers in FL (off eBay) and got a franken-PCM, it looked butchered (see pix) but I took a chance and installed it. The Jeep started up just fine, ran nice, idled better then it has in a while and most importantly, I felt the EVAP solenoid working!
Problem solved, right? WRONG!
After letting it run for nearly a half hour I shut it down and an hour later took a half hour drive. Along the way the engine stumbled once and shut down and started right back up after throwing it in neutral and turning the key.
Continued to my destination (Costco) parked and went shopping. About 45 minutes later I went back to the Jeep and tried starting it up. Off the bat I noticed something not right, the gauges did not come to life like they usually do - gas stayed flat, same for voltage and temp and most disturbing was no light from the CEL, just the immobilizer light and the check gauges light lit up.
I knew right away that the PCM and the rest of the Jeep weren't talking, so for the heck of it I tried cranking it and it did turn over but did not start.
Called my wife, had her bring the old PCM and my tools over and switched the old PCM in and it started right up and drove home. Needless to say that the CEL with my old P0443 came right back.
Called the FL company and they said they would take the PCM back and refund, asked if I wanted a replacement I said no thank you and went on searching for a new PCM.
I heard some good things about the Reman PCMs from A1 Cardone, so I bit the bullet and ordered one ($341) through AutoZone. Gave them my VIN and mileage and got the new unit on Friday.
Off the bat this unit felt right, looked good and not butchered. All excited, I went and installed right away.
And the problems started again!
After letting it run for 5 minutes the engine stumbled and shut down, I restarted it and it ran for another minute and shut down again and this time there same thing that happened in the Costco parking lot happened again. No communication with the PCM.
Frustrated I left it over the weekend and brooded... Then this morning I figured 'what the hell' and tried starting it and lo-and-behold it started!
Now I am left scratching my head, what the hell happened? Obviously the new unit is not the problem, and I wonder if the FL PCM was really bad to begin with - or if the Jeep ate it...
So any thoughts? Is there a 'safe mode' which is shutting down the PCM to protect it? Something else?
s10 rear end
hey folks, would this rear end fit to replace my d35?
would it just bolt in, or is it too wide/thin?
http://ift.tt/1yB1qCq
would it just bolt in, or is it too wide/thin?
http://ift.tt/1yB1qCq
What aftermarket header would you recommend?
I've been looking at headers and so far like the ones below the best, but I'm not an expert.
AFE polished stainless steel
JBA titanium ceramic coated stainless steel
Gibson silver ceramic coated stainless steel
Are there any other brands of ceramic coated stainless steel heaaders?
I already have a 2.5 cat back exhaust.
What brand(s)/model(s) of header do you recommend to improve lowend and mid torque and horse power? Some increase in highend performance would be nice too, but less important than low/mid performance.
AFE polished stainless steel
JBA titanium ceramic coated stainless steel
Gibson silver ceramic coated stainless steel
Are there any other brands of ceramic coated stainless steel heaaders?
I already have a 2.5 cat back exhaust.
What brand(s)/model(s) of header do you recommend to improve lowend and mid torque and horse power? Some increase in highend performance would be nice too, but less important than low/mid performance.
My TMR customs TJ long arm upgrade! PIC HEAVY
samedi 21 juin 2014
Hey guys! The time has come for my TMR long arm kit install. This is by far the biggest project I've taken on so preeeeety I'm fired up to do this :2thumbsup:
So the details!
I'm using these two kits:
http://ift.tt/V0RbYT
http://ift.tt/V0RbYZ
on my 2000 TJ. It's got an 8.8 rear and a D44 front. Somewhere around 4 inches of suspension lift. OME shocks.
The ride quality has been... stiff, and the rear end binds like crazy when flexing.. twice breaking the upper control arm mounts off the frame. First, when simply driving on Hwy 401, the second, bombing around in the pits.
passengers side
and the remaining drivers side was about to let off
So I figured, F it. I'm going for it.
BOOM
SO now for the fun stuff.
Started pulling the rear axle. It didn't take too long for me to run into problems. The lower shock mount bolts were impossible to turn, both my impact gun and by breaker bar. After reasonable amount of time trying to undue the bolts, I decided to cut 'em off.
Finally, got the axle out. Control arms had no real problems coming out... a little persuasion from the multi-angle swing press did the trick.
axle out! I was daydreaming about the truss and had it resting on the axle.
ohhhh can't wait
quite the mess..
And now the disaster. Discovered the reaaaaal soft spot in the frame is softer than I had thought. Prying against it was a bad idea. Another thing for the to do list.
This is as far as I got on day 1. half the brackets rough cut off.
More to come.. I'll try to do nightly updates.
If I'm doing something dumb, or missing/overlooking something please let me know! :cheers2:
Way too excited! :2thumbsup:
So the details!
I'm using these two kits:
http://ift.tt/V0RbYT
http://ift.tt/V0RbYZ
on my 2000 TJ. It's got an 8.8 rear and a D44 front. Somewhere around 4 inches of suspension lift. OME shocks.
The ride quality has been... stiff, and the rear end binds like crazy when flexing.. twice breaking the upper control arm mounts off the frame. First, when simply driving on Hwy 401, the second, bombing around in the pits.
passengers side
and the remaining drivers side was about to let off
So I figured, F it. I'm going for it.
BOOM
SO now for the fun stuff.
Started pulling the rear axle. It didn't take too long for me to run into problems. The lower shock mount bolts were impossible to turn, both my impact gun and by breaker bar. After reasonable amount of time trying to undue the bolts, I decided to cut 'em off.
Finally, got the axle out. Control arms had no real problems coming out... a little persuasion from the multi-angle swing press did the trick.
axle out! I was daydreaming about the truss and had it resting on the axle.
ohhhh can't wait
quite the mess..
And now the disaster. Discovered the reaaaaal soft spot in the frame is softer than I had thought. Prying against it was a bad idea. Another thing for the to do list.
This is as far as I got on day 1. half the brackets rough cut off.
More to come.. I'll try to do nightly updates.
If I'm doing something dumb, or missing/overlooking something please let me know! :cheers2:
Way too excited! :2thumbsup:
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