HELP ANYONE!!!!!!! my jeep keep stalling when I'm costing or in idle the car stalls the jeep stalled in the middle of the highway and was cranking but would not start then started after I cranked it for 3 mins then I got a smell of some weird odor I replaced the crank sensor TPS EGR I checked all grounds there clean and good. I cleaned the battery terminals and put them on tight I did a tune up 6,000 miles ago with bosh platinum spark plugs did the wires and rotor. I have never replaced the map sensor or Idle control sensor. I have a new fuel pressure regulator. my jeep runs great its just keep stalling when costing or idle it shut off at red lights and on the highway. I took down 4 mail boxes and drive into a fence cause the steering wheel locks and I can steer I have all electronic work just the engine stalls. I have a new fuel filter too HELPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!
XJ Build
So in the fall I plan on getting my first ever XJ! I can't wait. I want to do a few things to make it a bad *** looking rig but a great daily driver that is also more than capable off road. If you guys can help me out with ideas/tips that would be great! :2thumbsup:
Here's what I'm thinking:
-RC 6.5 inch long arm lift kit
-35" Mickey thompson baja mtz or Mastercraft MT
-Mickey thompson sidebiter II 15x10 rims with 3 and 5/8" BS
-RC slip yoke eliminator kit
-Dual steering stabilizer (not sure what brand)
-RC xj winch bumper and stinger
-smittybilt rear bumper
-want a roof rack ( not sure on brand)
-bushwhacker cut out fender flares
Please give me any help you can. This is my first post by the way. Thanks for the help.:thumbsup:
Here's what I'm thinking:
-RC 6.5 inch long arm lift kit
-35" Mickey thompson baja mtz or Mastercraft MT
-Mickey thompson sidebiter II 15x10 rims with 3 and 5/8" BS
-RC slip yoke eliminator kit
-Dual steering stabilizer (not sure what brand)
-RC xj winch bumper and stinger
-smittybilt rear bumper
-want a roof rack ( not sure on brand)
-bushwhacker cut out fender flares
Please give me any help you can. This is my first post by the way. Thanks for the help.:thumbsup:
Where is the voltage regulator?
When it rains, it pours. While trying to fix other things, I'll be trying to tackle my voltage problem. The question is, where is the voltage regulator on a 94 5.2?
Autozone people keep trying to assure me that its in the alternator. Forum search shows people talking about replacing PCM in some posts, alternator in others.
A bit confused right now. Are there 2 of them? If its part if the PCM does one have to replace the entire PCM?
Symptoms: every time I start my jeep, the voltage is a bit different. It stays more or less wherever it starts out as. One start might have it reading 12.72. Another start will be 14.65 volts. Measuring across the terminals with my multimeter.
Autozone people keep trying to assure me that its in the alternator. Forum search shows people talking about replacing PCM in some posts, alternator in others.
A bit confused right now. Are there 2 of them? If its part if the PCM does one have to replace the entire PCM?
Symptoms: every time I start my jeep, the voltage is a bit different. It stays more or less wherever it starts out as. One start might have it reading 12.72. Another start will be 14.65 volts. Measuring across the terminals with my multimeter.
Jeep JK wheeling
Yesterday was the first day I took my jeep off road and half way through the drive a "hot oil" sensor came on can anyone tell me what it means?
Anybody want a stray niner (almost free)
I have an extra vehicle - a 1998 5.9L ZJ, bright platinum with extensive hail damage and a rough running engine. Nearly all of the suspension items have been replaced in the past year, new rear wheel bearings, and both difs have been serviced, new tires, and new stereo head with backup camera. It has a clean green Oklahoma title, though it was a total loss on insurance due to the hail damage (about a 100 small hail pings on all body panels).
I don't want to deal with people on craigslist and I just got a huge project that's going to take up all my time for the next several months. I'll make more money selling it and concentrating on the project than I will in fixing up the ZJ and getting a better price.
Actually, I said almost free. I've changed my mind. It is free. BUT, you have to live close enough to Oklahoma City to come inspect the car yourself (or have another poster on here act as your agent). I want it to go to an ZJ enthusiast who might be able to bring it back to its days of glory or who needs the parts to bring their own ZJ back. To clarify - I will not ship.
The car will drive around the block and could be driven to a local mechanic's shop, but anything more than 10 miles and I would recommend a trailer.
If you have any questions (which should be much more than what time can I pick it up - remember it's FREE) post them here so that anyone else who reads this can see the question and answer.
Okay, so you wondered what you were going to be doing today when you woke up - you're going to be spending your day trying to figure out how to go pick up your free niner and get it out of my garage.
And since this will probably be my last thread on this forum, I want to thank everyone who's contributed to the forum and especially to those who've done the how to write-ups - you've saved me hours and hours of frustration over time.
Oh, and I forgot - you can pick it up today (5/31/2014) or it will end up being next weekend (starting 6/6/2014).
I don't want to deal with people on craigslist and I just got a huge project that's going to take up all my time for the next several months. I'll make more money selling it and concentrating on the project than I will in fixing up the ZJ and getting a better price.
Actually, I said almost free. I've changed my mind. It is free. BUT, you have to live close enough to Oklahoma City to come inspect the car yourself (or have another poster on here act as your agent). I want it to go to an ZJ enthusiast who might be able to bring it back to its days of glory or who needs the parts to bring their own ZJ back. To clarify - I will not ship.
The car will drive around the block and could be driven to a local mechanic's shop, but anything more than 10 miles and I would recommend a trailer.
If you have any questions (which should be much more than what time can I pick it up - remember it's FREE) post them here so that anyone else who reads this can see the question and answer.
Okay, so you wondered what you were going to be doing today when you woke up - you're going to be spending your day trying to figure out how to go pick up your free niner and get it out of my garage.
And since this will probably be my last thread on this forum, I want to thank everyone who's contributed to the forum and especially to those who've done the how to write-ups - you've saved me hours and hours of frustration over time.
Oh, and I forgot - you can pick it up today (5/31/2014) or it will end up being next weekend (starting 6/6/2014).
Two door xj in western mass
Thought I'd introduce myself I've had my jeep about a year now. I've been using cherokee forum for a while now and I thought I'd give this a try here's a few pics of my jeep from the other day
HP D30 questions
Well I know some of these questions are kinda noob questions but hey im trying to learn. I was hoping to switch out my front d30 for an HP D30. And I was wondering if anyone knew how id be able to tell the difference between the two while im layin under an xj in a junk yard looking for one. And from what ive heard, i should go with a non disco rather than the disco. Now heres my noob question, what the tits does that mean and how will I know the difference between the two?
Also is swapping one of these easier to do in the front than it is in the rear? And since I was hoping to swap one into the front, is there anything that wont just bolt up?\
Just to add, at one point I will be running 35"s and a 1.25" BL and 3-4.5 inches of lift
Also is swapping one of these easier to do in the front than it is in the rear? And since I was hoping to swap one into the front, is there anything that wont just bolt up?\
Just to add, at one point I will be running 35"s and a 1.25" BL and 3-4.5 inches of lift
Review - JK Dual Mount Assembly (JKDMA)
Rating
Overall score: 5 out of 5 - Thank you John!
Background
After picking WAY too many horrible lines in rocks, sacrificing my undercarriage and delaying the groups I was in for the sake of keeping video in frame I started using my Joby Gorilla Pod SLR Zoom with ball head mount on the OS bar. Not ideal, but it did the trick and kept my eyes on the trail rather than the viewfinder of my camera.
Then one day, I stumbled across a post in this forum where someone had two devices mounted on Ram Mounts in the centre dash tray. Intrigued, I began searching for the pictures at a later date to no avail... until by fluke I noticed 1222's signature.
Also, I wanted to get something that allowed me to mount two things, my camera on a standard tripod stud and my Note 3 so I could use the clinometers in Torque while displaying my oil/coolant temperature courtesy a Bluetooth ODB2 port reader. This also gives me the option of using the Note 3 for video with basically unlimited power supply if my compact camera's card fills up or the batteries die.
The Product
JK Dual Mount Assembly (JKDMA) - fits 2011-2014 JK's
Quick low down
Deletes the rather useless silicone tray, and replaces it with a texturized powder coated aluminium plate with two Ram Mount balls, holes and grommet provisions for cable management, and simply screws in using the factory screw that is already there. Very sturdy platform and installation is simple as long as you know how to use a small screwdriver/ratchet and socket Or wrench.
The competition
Right as I ordered this, my friend picked up a Daystar Upper Dash Panel which he thought used 1" Ram Mount balls but instead uses those little GPS ones that are not very sturdy. This drove him to a dollar store to pick-up a ball he could modify to use with all the Ram Mount accessories he had for his GoPro. One look at mine, and all the RAM Mount bits it came with, and he concluded he would be ordering one as well. Since then, his modified ball has since cracked on him. I will try to get my hands on his original mount so you can see what I am writing about.
Impressions
This thing rocks! Well technically it doesn't because it is very sturdy. The X-Grip IV for my bulky phone does vibrate a little but that's a fault of the springs in the grip and not the JKDMA. I only know this because the accelerometer in the phone makes my pitch and roll values in Torque tell me it's picking up something, probably my engine vibration. No impact on video, actually the only thing that really affects video is sometimes I'll get a wavy result but that's from having the defrost cranked.
Enough words, let's see pictures!
Unboxing
Old setup
Installed result
Camera + Smartphone
Zeroed in
Some angle - To date my basically stock JKUR kept all 4 on the ground at 33 roll and 20 pitch.
Enough stills, let's see some video, in the rocks!
Panasonic TS3 footage visible in Part 1 and before 5:39 mark in Part 2 while Samsung Galaxy Note 3 footage kicks in around 5:43 in Video 2. If you are patient, there are POV clips of me driving around on the trail and in the rocks... not just parked and filming others. Oh, if you cannot view it on portable device, try logging out of YouTube and using the browser to circumvent the content blocking due to the 3rd party music I added.
NOTE: I think I have POV footage of me fumbling my way through the original install because of holding a camera in my mouth and not being able to see my display. If I locate that, as well as some pictures of my friend's Daystar mount, I'll update this topic.
- Purchase experience: As soon as John received my order, he placed an international call to confirm my "non-confirmed" address and make sure the included accessories would meet my needs.
- Delivery time: It arrived to my father's address in GA quicker than I could drive there shortly after placing order... OK it was a ~1600 mile drive with an infant in tote.
- Packaging: Excellent
- Documentation: For such a simple install, he really made it monkey-proof with included instructions, parts list, and personalized cover letter (something you don't see anymore).
- Price: No complaints, just total up the value of the Ram Mount accessories, included hardware, and the mount itself doesn't cost much at all.
Overall score: 5 out of 5 - Thank you John!
Background
After picking WAY too many horrible lines in rocks, sacrificing my undercarriage and delaying the groups I was in for the sake of keeping video in frame I started using my Joby Gorilla Pod SLR Zoom with ball head mount on the OS bar. Not ideal, but it did the trick and kept my eyes on the trail rather than the viewfinder of my camera.
Then one day, I stumbled across a post in this forum where someone had two devices mounted on Ram Mounts in the centre dash tray. Intrigued, I began searching for the pictures at a later date to no avail... until by fluke I noticed 1222's signature.
Also, I wanted to get something that allowed me to mount two things, my camera on a standard tripod stud and my Note 3 so I could use the clinometers in Torque while displaying my oil/coolant temperature courtesy a Bluetooth ODB2 port reader. This also gives me the option of using the Note 3 for video with basically unlimited power supply if my compact camera's card fills up or the batteries die.
The Product
JK Dual Mount Assembly (JKDMA) - fits 2011-2014 JK's
Quick low down
Deletes the rather useless silicone tray, and replaces it with a texturized powder coated aluminium plate with two Ram Mount balls, holes and grommet provisions for cable management, and simply screws in using the factory screw that is already there. Very sturdy platform and installation is simple as long as you know how to use a small screwdriver/ratchet and socket Or wrench.
The competition
Right as I ordered this, my friend picked up a Daystar Upper Dash Panel which he thought used 1" Ram Mount balls but instead uses those little GPS ones that are not very sturdy. This drove him to a dollar store to pick-up a ball he could modify to use with all the Ram Mount accessories he had for his GoPro. One look at mine, and all the RAM Mount bits it came with, and he concluded he would be ordering one as well. Since then, his modified ball has since cracked on him. I will try to get my hands on his original mount so you can see what I am writing about.
Impressions
This thing rocks! Well technically it doesn't because it is very sturdy. The X-Grip IV for my bulky phone does vibrate a little but that's a fault of the springs in the grip and not the JKDMA. I only know this because the accelerometer in the phone makes my pitch and roll values in Torque tell me it's picking up something, probably my engine vibration. No impact on video, actually the only thing that really affects video is sometimes I'll get a wavy result but that's from having the defrost cranked.
Enough words, let's see pictures!
Unboxing
Old setup
Installed result
Camera + Smartphone
Zeroed in
Some angle - To date my basically stock JKUR kept all 4 on the ground at 33 roll and 20 pitch.
Enough stills, let's see some video, in the rocks!
Panasonic TS3 footage visible in Part 1 and before 5:39 mark in Part 2 while Samsung Galaxy Note 3 footage kicks in around 5:43 in Video 2. If you are patient, there are POV clips of me driving around on the trail and in the rocks... not just parked and filming others. Oh, if you cannot view it on portable device, try logging out of YouTube and using the browser to circumvent the content blocking due to the 3rd party music I added.
NOTE: I think I have POV footage of me fumbling my way through the original install because of holding a camera in my mouth and not being able to see my display. If I locate that, as well as some pictures of my friend's Daystar mount, I'll update this topic.
Serious rust above dash
I need to replace the part below the windshield behind the dash. There's some serious rust and I'm sure it's as a result if the rubber strip below the window frame not properly keeping rubber out. What is the piece called and what do you guys suggest since it cannot be fixed and needs replacing. I think it's called the cowel??? Is this the part between the dash and window frame??
http://ift.tt/1ksAgmo
http://ift.tt/1ksAgmo
Hard Starting
vendredi 30 mai 2014
2001 4.7 WJ Quadradrive. Started having to crank 2-3 times to start after it sat, and then it would start fine.
Replaced the fuel filter, no real improvement; replaced injectors, no real improvement, checked fuel pump pressure, and got 50 psi, but this was shortly after having started it.
I waited til the next morning, and rechecked the pressure at the fuel rail, and got:
- 10 psi at first key on
- 25 psi at second key on
- 50 psi at third key on
So I figured the fuel was draining all the way back to the tank, due to a bad o-ring or check valve.
Fixing the o-ring or replacing the pump is a pita.
I bought a Dorman fuel check valve ($40) and installed it in the line from the tank to the fuel filter, took about half hour.
Since then, instant start, idles smooth, runs great.
I think this is a quick, easy, inexpensive fix for a troubling problem.
Replaced the fuel filter, no real improvement; replaced injectors, no real improvement, checked fuel pump pressure, and got 50 psi, but this was shortly after having started it.
I waited til the next morning, and rechecked the pressure at the fuel rail, and got:
- 10 psi at first key on
- 25 psi at second key on
- 50 psi at third key on
So I figured the fuel was draining all the way back to the tank, due to a bad o-ring or check valve.
Fixing the o-ring or replacing the pump is a pita.
I bought a Dorman fuel check valve ($40) and installed it in the line from the tank to the fuel filter, took about half hour.
Since then, instant start, idles smooth, runs great.
I think this is a quick, easy, inexpensive fix for a troubling problem.
Anyone sell a JK to buy a WJ? I wanna hear from you.
So I'm kinda at a cross roads here on what to do. Either I build up my 03 WJ 4.0 or sell it and buy a JK. I made the mistake of going to Moab and renting a Rubicon and had so much fun even in stock form that I am afraid I won't be able to build my WJ and make it wheel as good as the Rubi did. The more I ask questions on here the more I wonder if I made a mistake buying the WJ that I bought. I want something I can run at least 33's on 17" wheels on and do lockers. Come to find out with the Quadra Track II I need to do a Transfer case swap to a 242 then then a long arm lift to fit the 33'3, regear, and a whole bunch of other stuff to make it worthy of what I would like to do. Also the Aftermarket for the Grand's seems to be weak in comparison to the XJ and especially the JK's but understandably so. Also everything for the WJ's seems to be twice as expensive it you want to upgrade. Bumpers for the WJ's seem to start at about $1100 each before shipping so you could easily be into bumpers for $3k by the time you had them to your door. Then all the stuff you read about Unibody and messing all that up. I'm totally new to Jeeps and might have jumped in way to fast without doing enough research. But I will admit I really like my WJ. It rides far superior to the Rubicon we rented and was more comfortable.
If any of you have come from the JK side tell me why you left and talk me off the cliff...
If any of you have come from the JK side tell me why you left and talk me off the cliff...
fuel tank
doe's any know if you can put a newer style fuel tank in my 95 , like a plastic one out of 99-01 ??
New Here - Need Advice
Hey all, I am reaching out for some opinions etc... I'm looking into buying an XJ preferably , mostly because i do not like the Wrangler. That being said, what are some guidelines and certain things to look out for when buying ? Rust issues, electrical, engine issues etc.. I drove a 1995 XJ for a few months while my Truck was being repaired and LOVED it. It seemed very sound with 279,000kms on it. But it has awful rust above the windshield. Anyways, any input is much appreciated !! Mods- Please remove or redirect me if i am posting in the wrong area !
Thanks!!!:tea:
Thanks!!!:tea:
Power steering inop at idle
I have a 96 limited ZJ. I swapped out the pwr steering pump with a reman pump from autozone, bled the ever livin bejesus out of it and test drove it. Power steering works only above idle and is completely inop at idle or stopped, no pump growl, whine or nasty noises what so ever. After the first test drive I jacked the front end off the ground for a second bleed and found the system to be free of air ( 2 solid hours of turning the wheel back and forth first with engine off and than with engine running and the resivior cap off the entire process) note this pump has the variable effort selenoid installed. Do you experts think I need to warranty this pump or do I possibly have some other issue going on here?
Hoat = wt*??
Good grief, attempting to flush radiator. Have run some cleaner through & now removed all fluid by draining upper hose into bucket while filling with hose (engine running, heater on high)
Am about to add coolant to empty radiator but before I do...
Three national parts stores look at me like I have three heads when inquiring about this mythical HOAT coolant! Does it exist? Can I just use the green "all makes" coolant??
Argggg. sorry about that - much better now.
Thanks - my new - old WJ thanks y'all as well. (it's never been maintained :()
Am about to add coolant to empty radiator but before I do...
Three national parts stores look at me like I have three heads when inquiring about this mythical HOAT coolant! Does it exist? Can I just use the green "all makes" coolant??
Argggg. sorry about that - much better now.
Thanks - my new - old WJ thanks y'all as well. (it's never been maintained :()
different sway bar end link lower bolt size
hey,
so I went to the bone yard to find a lower bolt for my 2002 swaybar end link( bolt number 6503726). Got there and saw a WJ in decent shape with the factory sway bar attached. Got the lower bolt off the wrecked WJ and without thinking got home and noticed that my end link lower bushing sleeve is much bigger. The bolt that I got has a much maybe a 1/2 inch step down and my old bolt has..im guessing 3/4.
Ok so no big deal, went to the parts store to get a new endlink...no dice. I didnt know the year of the WJ. I tried 2002, 2004,2005. none of the end links match the bolt size. I assumed that the wrecked Wj was newer then mine since it was in great shape...but am I wrong here, did they have different size step bolt in 1999?
To order the bolt online is 35$ including shipping for me. Its cheaper to buy a link arm.
so I went to the bone yard to find a lower bolt for my 2002 swaybar end link( bolt number 6503726). Got there and saw a WJ in decent shape with the factory sway bar attached. Got the lower bolt off the wrecked WJ and without thinking got home and noticed that my end link lower bushing sleeve is much bigger. The bolt that I got has a much maybe a 1/2 inch step down and my old bolt has..im guessing 3/4.
Ok so no big deal, went to the parts store to get a new endlink...no dice. I didnt know the year of the WJ. I tried 2002, 2004,2005. none of the end links match the bolt size. I assumed that the wrecked Wj was newer then mine since it was in great shape...but am I wrong here, did they have different size step bolt in 1999?
To order the bolt online is 35$ including shipping for me. Its cheaper to buy a link arm.
4.7 connecting rod width
Does anyone know or can measure the big end width of a 4.7 con rod?
I am looking at some blanks to be machined but as my engine is still in the jeep I cant measure it and nothing has turned up in any search.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
I am looking at some blanks to be machined but as my engine is still in the jeep I cant measure it and nothing has turned up in any search.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Cutting painted fender flares!
See a lot of people cut their fender flares but haven't come across many with the matching painted flares. I have a 2010 JKU, just curious how it turned out for anyone who has?
How much cfm do I need to keep my zj cool in this as weather
Hello everyone I have a 94 4.0 zj I replaced the fan clutch with a 2500 cfm 16 inch fan with a custom fan should. It has performed great but now that the weather is heating up i need to use the ac because of my kids my temperature has started to rise above the normal temp. I was told that if I installed some hood vents it would fix the problem. Any advise will be appreciated :newbie::newbie::newbie:
2006 LJ Rear Seatbelts
jeudi 29 mai 2014
I am selling the rear seatbelts from my 2006 LJ.
seatbelts are black, includes both male and female ends, and mounting bolts.
buyer pays cost of shipping.
seatbelts are black, includes both male and female ends, and mounting bolts.
buyer pays cost of shipping.
285/70/17 with rc lift? using rock star wheels +10mm offset
Has anyone used a 285/70/17 tire with the rc 2" lift? Won't be using spacers but I do have rockstar wheels that have a +10 mm offset. Wheelpros vendor says they will fit but I haven't seen any pictures of people running that big of a tire with the rc lift. Tires I ordered are nitro terra grapplers, so not a mud terrain or anything too aggressive..
A place to stay in Moab, UT
Maybe a moderator can place this post, not sure where to put it.
Anyway, can anyone recommend a hotel to stay at in Moab, UT for my wife and I? Looking for clean and not noisy.
Thanks
Snake Man
Anyway, can anyone recommend a hotel to stay at in Moab, UT for my wife and I? Looking for clean and not noisy.
Thanks
Snake Man
YJ 4" Lift Kit Complete
I've got a 4" Rough Country lift kit that is practically new. I picked up a project YJ that the guy never finished. He started to put this lift kit in it and never finished the project. The kit includes everything: springs, shocks, ubolts, bumpstops, swaybar extensioned links, track bar extension pieces and transfer case drop. I had to actually put a couple of the ubolts on just to load the Jeep onto the trailer to bring it home and then roll it into the garage. Maybe 50 yards on the kit. Asking $300
1994 jeep grand cherokee won't start!!
I have a 1994 jeep grand cherokee laredo 5.2 litre V8
I bought a new car and left the jeep to sit for a couple months.. but when I took her for drives a noticed that she was sputtery and the idle was off. To fix my BABY! I decided to replace the distributor cap, After I did she wouldn't start right.. I have tried the actual firing pattern 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, and she won't start at all there.. then when i do 1-1 2-2 and she starts but back fires like crazy.. I have done clock wise, counter clock wise.. EVERYTHING!
Is there something that I am missing.. the wires and plugs are brand new!
I'm stumped. :/
I have also checked the timing, battery. I noticed that the distributor rotor was rough so I sanded it down a bit.. Could that be the problem? did I screw up the rotor? I can normally fix a air plane if you put it in front of me and this problem is just beyond frustrating! I have no idea what I am doing wrong.. local mechanics just want me to bring it to them and google turns up nothing.
I bought a new car and left the jeep to sit for a couple months.. but when I took her for drives a noticed that she was sputtery and the idle was off. To fix my BABY! I decided to replace the distributor cap, After I did she wouldn't start right.. I have tried the actual firing pattern 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, and she won't start at all there.. then when i do 1-1 2-2 and she starts but back fires like crazy.. I have done clock wise, counter clock wise.. EVERYTHING!
Is there something that I am missing.. the wires and plugs are brand new!
I'm stumped. :/
I have also checked the timing, battery. I noticed that the distributor rotor was rough so I sanded it down a bit.. Could that be the problem? did I screw up the rotor? I can normally fix a air plane if you put it in front of me and this problem is just beyond frustrating! I have no idea what I am doing wrong.. local mechanics just want me to bring it to them and google turns up nothing.
jeep noise
Ever since I hade my slave cylinder channged my jeep has been makeing a matalic spinning noise it sounds like its comeing from the engine/bellhousing/transmission area though I know sounds can be deceiving. The noise is all the time and wasmt there when I bought it. Its hard to hear when driving so at first I thought it was only happening when coasting 7n neutral or with the clutch pressed in but then I decided to pay more attention and noticed it while driving. It does not happen while idling.
Some background info, 90 yj 4 cyl soa lift. 30" tires I am assuming wernt ballanced I have a feeling when I bought it he took his 31's off and and swapped them for the 30's on his tj he bought to replace it. Rear diff leaks and there appears to be a leak near the rear of the trans and has 300+ km on the origional engine, well taken care of with regualar maitence and just started ticking 2 weeks ago which im pretty sure is a sticky lifter. Any ideas and detailed info on how to check/test what could be causing this noise would be great. Im not to concerned about the tire ballancing right now as I have 35's to put on, I bought am 8.8 with the brackets mounted on I just saveing up to get the little odds and ends that will need replacing.
Cheers, Gungnir.
Some background info, 90 yj 4 cyl soa lift. 30" tires I am assuming wernt ballanced I have a feeling when I bought it he took his 31's off and and swapped them for the 30's on his tj he bought to replace it. Rear diff leaks and there appears to be a leak near the rear of the trans and has 300+ km on the origional engine, well taken care of with regualar maitence and just started ticking 2 weeks ago which im pretty sure is a sticky lifter. Any ideas and detailed info on how to check/test what could be causing this noise would be great. Im not to concerned about the tire ballancing right now as I have 35's to put on, I bought am 8.8 with the brackets mounted on I just saveing up to get the little odds and ends that will need replacing.
Cheers, Gungnir.
How low can you go?
My current setup is 3.5 of lift with 34s.
I have 4 inches of up 6 down do to my mounts.
I want to lower my rig down an inch up front. Using progressive rate springs. Now this brings into question how low can you go on 35s?
I have 4 inches of up 6 down do to my mounts.
I want to lower my rig down an inch up front. Using progressive rate springs. Now this brings into question how low can you go on 35s?
I'm back!
Once again I am back! I was on here many many years ago, But after selling my Jeeps in favour of something more gas efficient to save money.. I finally got another!
It is a basically mint 89 Laredo 4door, 118k original miles!
It is a basically mint 89 Laredo 4door, 118k original miles!
Zj tie rod swap! Need help
I've searched and can't find anything on this! I understand the ZJ tie rod and tre are beefier! My question is with the tie rod being larger how does it mount to the drag link? Do I need to get 2 tres? One for the knuckle and one for the drag link or do I use my TJ link to mount it to the drag link
Full Metal Badges
Full Metal Badges
A novel idea that I like. I am thinking about signing up for the In Dirt I Trust.
Their Kickstarter Link... http://ift.tt/1k3s01N
I am in no way affiliated with these guys, I just think this is a cool new product. Better than plain stickers that is.
Mods if this is in the wrong place, sorry and go ahead and place it where you see fit.
A novel idea that I like. I am thinking about signing up for the In Dirt I Trust.
Their Kickstarter Link... http://ift.tt/1k3s01N
I am in no way affiliated with these guys, I just think this is a cool new product. Better than plain stickers that is.
Mods if this is in the wrong place, sorry and go ahead and place it where you see fit.
5.7 Hemi/545RFE+33X12.5 Duratracs=what gears?!
Long time lurker, first post here, great site everyone...
I am in the middle of a 5.7 Hemi transplant in my '97 TJ, and have already installed the Hemi/545RFE automatic overdrive transmission. I have read a lot on tire diameter vs transmission gear ratios vs differential gear ratio debates, but can't really find a fitting response to my question. I am installing 33X12.5 Duratracs on my 8" wheels and with the 545RFE I am wondering of I should change my differential gearing from the current 4.10's. I currently have a HP Dana 30 in the front and Ford 8.8 in the rear. For now I am mostly an around town, and down the interstate cruiser. Trails and beaches are the only real action the Jeep gets to see thus far. Any advice would be appreciated...
-Michael
I am in the middle of a 5.7 Hemi transplant in my '97 TJ, and have already installed the Hemi/545RFE automatic overdrive transmission. I have read a lot on tire diameter vs transmission gear ratios vs differential gear ratio debates, but can't really find a fitting response to my question. I am installing 33X12.5 Duratracs on my 8" wheels and with the 545RFE I am wondering of I should change my differential gearing from the current 4.10's. I currently have a HP Dana 30 in the front and Ford 8.8 in the rear. For now I am mostly an around town, and down the interstate cruiser. Trails and beaches are the only real action the Jeep gets to see thus far. Any advice would be appreciated...
-Michael
Assorted TJ parts
All the parts are used and have come off a TJ. Even though they are all used they are all still in good condition and are very usable.
*3/8" steel raised winch plate. Fits on stock TJ bumper
*Rubber shifter boot-$15
*Steering bracket-offer
*1" transfer case drop all hardware included, will only fit '03 and newer since they went to metric. It's a little over 1".-$20
*Stock front sway bar-$50
*Extended sway bar links for a 3" lift, front only-$20
*hi-lift jack 4xrac mounts, I have 6 of the 8 bolts that go with this.-$20
*D30 spider gears-$35 shipped
Some things I may be willing to wiggle on the price a little. Also may be interested in some trades.
If you would like pictures or have any questions PM me and I'll be happy to facilitate your needs.
*3/8" steel raised winch plate. Fits on stock TJ bumper
*Rubber shifter boot-$15
*Steering bracket-offer
*1" transfer case drop all hardware included, will only fit '03 and newer since they went to metric. It's a little over 1".-$20
*Stock front sway bar-$50
*Extended sway bar links for a 3" lift, front only-$20
*hi-lift jack 4xrac mounts, I have 6 of the 8 bolts that go with this.-$20
*D30 spider gears-$35 shipped
Some things I may be willing to wiggle on the price a little. Also may be interested in some trades.
If you would like pictures or have any questions PM me and I'll be happy to facilitate your needs.
4.0l Computer Compatability
mercredi 28 mai 2014
Hello! I have been a forum stalker for a little while, and am to the point I need some help with my specific issue. The people here seem very helpful and I am excited to be part of the community!
First off, I am on a budget. As in ramen noodles. :)
I have a CJ7 that came with the 4.2L engine. The Jeep has personality, and I like it, but I have found coolant in the oil. What better time to do an engine swap!? I have read about several ways to get more power out of the beast, and am aware it is more about low end torque than overall HP, So I chose to stay with an I6 engine, but now I am at my crossroads. I have a 1995 4.0L out of an automatic Grand Cherokee in my garage that I picked up for $125, and am told I can:
A. Put it in as-is
B. Swap the head onto the 4.2L
C. Swap the crank from the 4.2L into the 4.0L
I feel that I am capable of doing any of these things, but some insight would be great at this point. Many of the builds involving the head swap are old and either disappeared, or are missing important pictures. I have read there are water jackets that need to be plugged and I am concerned about issues with the ignition system, and really don't have the money to buy a special computer. The crank swap actually seems the most appealing to me. It would be nice to have the fresher motor and not have to worry about some compatibility issues (Though I hear there are a few modifications that must be made to accommodate the crank sensor).
The next question I have involves the computer and wiring. The engine was in an auto and the computer was already gone when I got to it, so which computers will work? Can I get a computer out of a similar year wrangler or Cherokee with a manual? They all seem to have different model numbers, and even in the same year there are a couple different ones for just a manual! I have most of the under-hood wire harness and would like to strip out the unnecessary crap and use it if possible. This is the thing that has me the most worried.
I have searched the general internet and this forum as best as I could, but I didn't find anything that answers my specific question about the computer and wiring. Thank you for your help!
First off, I am on a budget. As in ramen noodles. :)
I have a CJ7 that came with the 4.2L engine. The Jeep has personality, and I like it, but I have found coolant in the oil. What better time to do an engine swap!? I have read about several ways to get more power out of the beast, and am aware it is more about low end torque than overall HP, So I chose to stay with an I6 engine, but now I am at my crossroads. I have a 1995 4.0L out of an automatic Grand Cherokee in my garage that I picked up for $125, and am told I can:
A. Put it in as-is
B. Swap the head onto the 4.2L
C. Swap the crank from the 4.2L into the 4.0L
I feel that I am capable of doing any of these things, but some insight would be great at this point. Many of the builds involving the head swap are old and either disappeared, or are missing important pictures. I have read there are water jackets that need to be plugged and I am concerned about issues with the ignition system, and really don't have the money to buy a special computer. The crank swap actually seems the most appealing to me. It would be nice to have the fresher motor and not have to worry about some compatibility issues (Though I hear there are a few modifications that must be made to accommodate the crank sensor).
The next question I have involves the computer and wiring. The engine was in an auto and the computer was already gone when I got to it, so which computers will work? Can I get a computer out of a similar year wrangler or Cherokee with a manual? They all seem to have different model numbers, and even in the same year there are a couple different ones for just a manual! I have most of the under-hood wire harness and would like to strip out the unnecessary crap and use it if possible. This is the thing that has me the most worried.
I have searched the general internet and this forum as best as I could, but I didn't find anything that answers my specific question about the computer and wiring. Thank you for your help!
What manual transmissions were offered in 1991 cherokees?
My buddy has a 1991 jeep cherokee with the 4.0 and a 5 speed, we were wondering which manual transmission it is so we can put the correct fluid in it?
Thanks for any help!
1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 4x4 AX-15 110,000 miles
Thanks for any help!
1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 4x4 AX-15 110,000 miles
CJ7 Jerry can options
Okay, so I'm looking for a way to carry an extra 5 gals of fuel (the 401 is thirsty), and I'd really appreciate it if I could see some pics of how you guys are mounting jerry cans to your rigs. Thanks!
04 Jeep Grand Cherokee Radio does not light up
So my radio does not light up any more, but radio does work. I found a replacement at the local scrap yard. Can I just install the replacement radio with out having to do any vehicle programming after its been installed?
It's a Limited RBP radio model.
Thanks in advance
It's a Limited RBP radio model.
Thanks in advance
BigIvy
Ok Jeep people, I need advice. I have replaced the head gaskets, radiator, thermostat,spark plugs and coil pack on my 2000 Jeep. I am STILL getting my check engine light and a reading of cylinder 1 misfire??? I dont know if my pickup is bad because you can turn it a good bit before the idiling/timing changes, or maybe the crank shaft position sensor? Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions!:confused:
Long arm kit and frame repair
My frame has been capped due to rust underneath the transfer case on both sides. Is there going to be any problems when installing a long arm lift, preferably rubicon express, at the lower control arm mounts?
1995 ZJ Acceleration Issue
I have a 1995 Jeep ZJ 4.0L and I have a problem that is driving me absolutely insane. On the takeoff if kick down the throttle it bogs down like its going to die and then picks up slowly until it finally accelerates. When it does get up to speed it has high shift points (3k-3.5k rpm). Sometimes it will not shift into overdrive and just hang in gear. The worst problem I have is hitting hills. If i put the pedal to the floor it will rev high but will not accelerate or shift and lose speed. This is very annoying and if the hill is steep enough it will nearly bring me to a stop. I am stumped as to what it is since I have replaced so many parts already. The local dealership first told me my torque converter was bad until I told them the transmission was replaced and it did the same thing on the last one. They then told me it was not pushing enough fuel while driving and needed a fuel pump which has also already been replaced. Im not throwing any codes, there is no lights on, nothing. I just dont get it. If anyone has any input PLEASE let me know because Im about to give up on the ole girl. If anymore information is needed please let me know. Thanks!
Wiper Stalk Replacement / auto / manual ?
Hi all great forum !!!
I have just picked up a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD 2.7 LTD with auto wipers
From what I can tell the previous owner must have had the windshield replaced but not had all the auto wiper sensors sorted as there is just a small black triangular box hanging from a cable coming from the roof lining
Is it possible to convert the Jeep to a manual wiper system by changing the stalk?
I know that if i turn on the wipers it wipes once then just continuously, as it is England and rains all the time it would be good to have the intermittent wipe option :laugh: ?
Hope this makes sense
Kind Regards
Malcolm
I have just picked up a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD 2.7 LTD with auto wipers
From what I can tell the previous owner must have had the windshield replaced but not had all the auto wiper sensors sorted as there is just a small black triangular box hanging from a cable coming from the roof lining
Is it possible to convert the Jeep to a manual wiper system by changing the stalk?
I know that if i turn on the wipers it wipes once then just continuously, as it is England and rains all the time it would be good to have the intermittent wipe option :laugh: ?
Hope this makes sense
Kind Regards
Malcolm
Complete loss of electrical power...Pleaaaase heeelp!!
I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 with a manual transmission.
Up until a week ago it ran perfectly....didn't miss a beat!
I use it maybe twice a week strictly for the bush and it was fine after its last trip out to the bush then about a week ago I decided to go out for a short trek on my local trails and it won't start.
From the day I bought it a few months ago I have needed to hold the key in the start position for 3-4 seconds before the engine would fire up but it would always start.
But now nothing at all....no dash lights or signs of any kind of life.
I replaced the battery and still nothing.
I also tried switching the headlights on as they usually work with the key out of the ignition and they didn't work either.
I checked the battery connections and they are good.
I then read a couple of forum posts that suggested the ignition switch may be the culprit so thanks to a helpful post on here and a trusty Haynes manual I located the switch.
When I removed the plugs I noticed that the one of the holes on the blue plug was black.
What I know about wiring and ignitions can be written on the back of a business card with double spacing so I have a few questions.
I am doing the work myself and will persevere with it until I find the problem I just need some guidance as I want to know how to do the job properly in case it happens again.
Has anybody had this happen to them?
would a faulty ignition switch cause this problem?
Should I replace the blue ignition switch plug or clean it?
Any other ideas as to what the problem could be?
I would really appreciate any help at all! I'll be gutted if I have to leave the Jeep sitting all summer :(
Up until a week ago it ran perfectly....didn't miss a beat!
I use it maybe twice a week strictly for the bush and it was fine after its last trip out to the bush then about a week ago I decided to go out for a short trek on my local trails and it won't start.
From the day I bought it a few months ago I have needed to hold the key in the start position for 3-4 seconds before the engine would fire up but it would always start.
But now nothing at all....no dash lights or signs of any kind of life.
I replaced the battery and still nothing.
I also tried switching the headlights on as they usually work with the key out of the ignition and they didn't work either.
I checked the battery connections and they are good.
I then read a couple of forum posts that suggested the ignition switch may be the culprit so thanks to a helpful post on here and a trusty Haynes manual I located the switch.
When I removed the plugs I noticed that the one of the holes on the blue plug was black.
What I know about wiring and ignitions can be written on the back of a business card with double spacing so I have a few questions.
I am doing the work myself and will persevere with it until I find the problem I just need some guidance as I want to know how to do the job properly in case it happens again.
Has anybody had this happen to them?
would a faulty ignition switch cause this problem?
Should I replace the blue ignition switch plug or clean it?
Any other ideas as to what the problem could be?
I would really appreciate any help at all! I'll be gutted if I have to leave the Jeep sitting all summer :(
Looking to buy a Jeep in Aurora Colorado, need help from local
mardi 27 mai 2014
I am looking to buy a Jeep in Aurora, if there is anyone close by I need help. If you can go look at the Jeep for me and see if there is any rust issues and any other things like rear main seal leak etc.
gorillamel's 2008 Rubi
I decided to start this thread as a place for me to keep track of my progress on my Jeep build. I really do not anticipate too many comments (it's a fairly boring build). Constructive comments/suggestions are welcome.
Username: gorillamel
Year: 2008
Make: Jeep
Model: Wrangler
Trim: Rubicon (2-door)
Color: Forest Green
Mileage: 77,147 (when purchased Mar 2014)
Pinterest ideas page: http://ift.tt/1nyuyoF
Sold the Xterra to pay off car loan for a car I bought for my parents.
Then realized the 2013 Fiat 500 S did not properly suit my lifestyle. Therefore, I traded it in for this:
This was the first manual transmission I have ever owned, which means driving it can certainly be full of laughs and grinding gears.
I made it into my work parking garage all on my own!
I do not plan to do any heavy wheeling with this rig until I learn to comfortably drive it, hahaha. -->Note: since I took it to Moab May 2014, I think I can now say that I have learned to drive it, hahaha!
MODS
Suspension:
-2" spacers all around
-JKU springs all around
-Some unknown brand of shocks
-Polyperformance front & rear track bar bracket
-Terraflex track bar
-(to be installed) Polyperformance high steer kit with tie rod end adapter
-Rubicon Express rear brake line bracket
Tires/Wheels & Armor:
-stock wheels
-285/70/17 Maxxis Bighorn MT-762
-Spare (mounted on rear) 255/75/17 BF Goodrich
-Stock skids
-Stock sliders/rails
-AEV front bumper w/ winch plate, stock fogs
Electrical, Powertrain & Driveline:
-8000lb WARN winch
-(2) IPF Driving lights (mounted on front bumper)
-Front and rear Dana 44 axles
-Front and rear tru-lok e-lockers
-Electronic sway bar disconnect
-4.1 gear ratio (crawl ratio in 4lo is 73.3:1)
Interior:
-Flip switch mounted on dash for driving lights
-Midland WX1001(?) CB (mounted next to stick shift on passenger side)
-fire extinguisher
-rubber floor mats
-rear seats removed
Exterior:
-Firestik CB antennae mounted on tire carrier
-misc stickers (for added hp :-P)
Suspension components (that I got for free)
Polyperformance Front Track bar bracket (BEEFY!)
Rubicon Express Rear Brake line bracket
Front bumper/winch (w/some Moab mud)
Installing front springs/shocks:
Rear cargo area with goodies from Brown Santa!:
Other Accoutrements:
-Shovel w/ bedlined handle
-Hi-Lift and tire adapter
-SOGfari Survival set (machete, knife, hatchet, shovel/pick)
-Yellow galoshes
-various other survival necessities
-cheapo air compressor
-survival gear in Plano sportsman trunk
-Mossan nagant WWII rifle w/ ammo
-Roller derby gear
Future Mods:
-black steel D wheels with +4 backspacing
-Tire Carrier w/ Gas can mounts (OR-Fab)
-Extend rock rails to sliders
-Roof Rack (prefer Gobi, but too expensive. Probably Kurgo)
-kayak roof bars
-Bestop soft top
-Bluesea fuse distributor
-More lights
-replace missing Rubicon stickers??
-AEV geometry correction brackets
Testing out the winch while getting stuck in snow in the mtns
Other uses for a 2-door Jeep:
Username: gorillamel
Year: 2008
Make: Jeep
Model: Wrangler
Trim: Rubicon (2-door)
Color: Forest Green
Mileage: 77,147 (when purchased Mar 2014)
Pinterest ideas page: http://ift.tt/1nyuyoF
Sold the Xterra to pay off car loan for a car I bought for my parents.
Then realized the 2013 Fiat 500 S did not properly suit my lifestyle. Therefore, I traded it in for this:
This was the first manual transmission I have ever owned, which means driving it can certainly be full of laughs and grinding gears.
I made it into my work parking garage all on my own!
I do not plan to do any heavy wheeling with this rig until I learn to comfortably drive it, hahaha. -->Note: since I took it to Moab May 2014, I think I can now say that I have learned to drive it, hahaha!
MODS
Suspension:
-2" spacers all around
-JKU springs all around
-Some unknown brand of shocks
-Polyperformance front & rear track bar bracket
-Terraflex track bar
-(to be installed) Polyperformance high steer kit with tie rod end adapter
-Rubicon Express rear brake line bracket
Tires/Wheels & Armor:
-stock wheels
-285/70/17 Maxxis Bighorn MT-762
-Spare (mounted on rear) 255/75/17 BF Goodrich
-Stock skids
-Stock sliders/rails
-AEV front bumper w/ winch plate, stock fogs
Electrical, Powertrain & Driveline:
-8000lb WARN winch
-(2) IPF Driving lights (mounted on front bumper)
-Front and rear Dana 44 axles
-Front and rear tru-lok e-lockers
-Electronic sway bar disconnect
-4.1 gear ratio (crawl ratio in 4lo is 73.3:1)
Interior:
-Flip switch mounted on dash for driving lights
-Midland WX1001(?) CB (mounted next to stick shift on passenger side)
-fire extinguisher
-rubber floor mats
-rear seats removed
Exterior:
-Firestik CB antennae mounted on tire carrier
-misc stickers (for added hp :-P)
Suspension components (that I got for free)
Polyperformance Front Track bar bracket (BEEFY!)
Rubicon Express Rear Brake line bracket
Front bumper/winch (w/some Moab mud)
Installing front springs/shocks:
Rear cargo area with goodies from Brown Santa!:
Other Accoutrements:
-Shovel w/ bedlined handle
-Hi-Lift and tire adapter
-SOGfari Survival set (machete, knife, hatchet, shovel/pick)
-Yellow galoshes
-various other survival necessities
-cheapo air compressor
-survival gear in Plano sportsman trunk
-Mossan nagant WWII rifle w/ ammo
-Roller derby gear
Future Mods:
-black steel D wheels with +4 backspacing
-Tire Carrier w/ Gas can mounts (OR-Fab)
-Extend rock rails to sliders
-Roof Rack (prefer Gobi, but too expensive. Probably Kurgo)
-kayak roof bars
-Bestop soft top
-Bluesea fuse distributor
-More lights
-replace missing Rubicon stickers??
-AEV geometry correction brackets
Testing out the winch while getting stuck in snow in the mtns
Other uses for a 2-door Jeep:
looking for help on lcog
I wheel in JV and Arizona. I will be moving to Arizona soon because I like the wheeling there the best. I'm Getting older so getting in the jeep gets harder every year.
So the guestion is how do I get up water falls like this with less then 19" to the skid plate
http://ift.tt/1mn5vC6
So the guestion is how do I get up water falls like this with less then 19" to the skid plate
http://ift.tt/1mn5vC6
Power Leather Seat Issue?
I went and looked at a WJ today, a white 04 Special Edition, and the seatback was reclined. I know this is normal, but my dad is raising concern because his friend had a ZJ and his seatback broke down and was always reclined. Do WJ seats ever have any issues too?
Wheel / Tire size confirmation
In reading some of the threads, it appears my Stock '03 Rubi rims will hold:
245/75/16
30/9.5/15
and maybe even 31/10.5/
Could someone please just confirm this for me before I go out looking for new tires. Those Wranglers i have are 11 years old and are going to leave me stuck in the woods at my hunt club this fall I know. I need to order some new Mud/road tires (c:
thanks
245/75/16
30/9.5/15
and maybe even 31/10.5/
Could someone please just confirm this for me before I go out looking for new tires. Those Wranglers i have are 11 years old and are going to leave me stuck in the woods at my hunt club this fall I know. I need to order some new Mud/road tires (c:
thanks
Bilstein 5100's - Adjustable ON the Jeep?
I know the 5100 struts aren't made to be adjustable like some high-end spring setups, but can you change the ride height setting without taking the whole strut assembly off the Jeep?
If you let the suspension go to full drop and compressed the spring, could you then adjust the lower spring perch? It's not something I'd want to be doing regularly, but it would be easier than taking the whole assembly off.
If you let the suspension go to full drop and compressed the spring, could you then adjust the lower spring perch? It's not something I'd want to be doing regularly, but it would be easier than taking the whole assembly off.
What Am I?
The small dots right on the edge of the bronze center going to the chrome outside are little allen bolts are seem to be legit bolts for a two piece wheel. Never seen anything like this before.
Hi!
Hello all!
my name is Scott!
i've chevy silverado 1500! it's amazing.
Here to share some information on jeeps.
Thanks :)
my name is Scott!
i've chevy silverado 1500! it's amazing.
Here to share some information on jeeps.
Thanks :)
Jeep lift kit
lundi 26 mai 2014
hello,
I currently have a 2001 wj limited and im wanting to lift it to make it a off road toy/ daily driver. I have read a lot of post about many different kits. I was looking at IRO 6.5 Inch long arm lift kit http://ift.tt/1oCPMBc. Also are there any other lifts that are better than the IRO kit in my price range which is around 1,500. and will need any other parts other than the lift kit to be ready to go Off-Roading. Thanks for the help
I currently have a 2001 wj limited and im wanting to lift it to make it a off road toy/ daily driver. I have read a lot of post about many different kits. I was looking at IRO 6.5 Inch long arm lift kit http://ift.tt/1oCPMBc. Also are there any other lifts that are better than the IRO kit in my price range which is around 1,500. and will need any other parts other than the lift kit to be ready to go Off-Roading. Thanks for the help
Timing chain cover, what years will match?
I need to replace a timing cover on a 2006 TJ.
I can't seem to find any interchange list or websites telling me what will fit. eBay has dozens of covers for various years, but none of them specifically say for a 2006.
Also, would JGC covers fit? I can't imagine them being different, but, you never know.
I can't seem to find any interchange list or websites telling me what will fit. eBay has dozens of covers for various years, but none of them specifically say for a 2006.
Also, would JGC covers fit? I can't imagine them being different, but, you never know.
jk front bumper
a friend of mine is looking to replace his front bumper. looking fpr a stubby with no hoop. can i see pics and tell me who manufactured it? hes a newbie and loving his jeep.
:cheers:
:cheers:
How do I remove connector to AC Blower 2000 4.0L Cherokee
I'm trying to remove the electrical connector from the AC blower motor to test it on a 2000 Ceherokee Sport 4.0L. Is there something I am missing...it just refuses to some out. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Jeep Tie Rod/Knuckle/Brakes Issues?
Okay boys and girls, something is messed up.
I was out for a ride (pavement) on Saturday and near the end of my trek I was pulling out of a stop light and getting to 55MPH. Around 45MPH I felt like my engine was too rich or it wouldn't go into over drive. It was a hotter day and I pulled over, and everything seemed fine so back onto the highway I went, got up to 55MPH and the steering suddenly pulled to the right (passenger's side), strange but maybe a just of wind. Then I got some wobble and I knew something was up. I went about 5 more miles to get it to a place I could take a closer look.
Anyway, I open the hood, everything is where it should be. But then I notice light white smoke coming from the front passengers side wheel! I got under the Jeep and I notice that the boot on the tie rod end is blown apart and now melting onto the rim. Ugh!
Could the grease have splattered into the bearings and brake assembly causing enough friction to not accelerate properly? My other thought is that the brake lines collapsed causing the calipers to lock up frying my (newish) brake pads and rotors (upgraded late 2012), which in turn melted the boot causing it to leak. It's been sitting for 2 days now, and the brake fluid is within normal levels. Also the drivers side tie rod end is starting to leak too.
More pictures: http://ift.tt/1jRVLkP
Oil or grease splattered all on the passenger side:
Driver side:
Jeep Wrangler LJ
No Lift, Currie Antirock is the only upgrade in that area of the Jeep.
I was out for a ride (pavement) on Saturday and near the end of my trek I was pulling out of a stop light and getting to 55MPH. Around 45MPH I felt like my engine was too rich or it wouldn't go into over drive. It was a hotter day and I pulled over, and everything seemed fine so back onto the highway I went, got up to 55MPH and the steering suddenly pulled to the right (passenger's side), strange but maybe a just of wind. Then I got some wobble and I knew something was up. I went about 5 more miles to get it to a place I could take a closer look.
Anyway, I open the hood, everything is where it should be. But then I notice light white smoke coming from the front passengers side wheel! I got under the Jeep and I notice that the boot on the tie rod end is blown apart and now melting onto the rim. Ugh!
Could the grease have splattered into the bearings and brake assembly causing enough friction to not accelerate properly? My other thought is that the brake lines collapsed causing the calipers to lock up frying my (newish) brake pads and rotors (upgraded late 2012), which in turn melted the boot causing it to leak. It's been sitting for 2 days now, and the brake fluid is within normal levels. Also the drivers side tie rod end is starting to leak too.
More pictures: http://ift.tt/1jRVLkP
Oil or grease splattered all on the passenger side:
Driver side:
Jeep Wrangler LJ
No Lift, Currie Antirock is the only upgrade in that area of the Jeep.
What to run in my dana 30
Whats everybodys opinion on what would be better in my front diff. A Truetrac or an Aussie locker? This is a DD. 90% on road 10% off road. Trails, dirt hill climbing, and lots of snow and ice during the winter.
low Acceleration, loose of power, overheat.
Hi all Jeep ers. sorry for the lenguage. i have a problem with my jeep grand cherokee WJ 4.0i 2004 Laredo. i was driving for camping with my jeep and it was doing fine, when i was just arriving at the location my jeep started to loose power, i was climbing at the momen just a normal road, i pressed on acceleration the motor was doing a strange roar like it was not filled with air or gas and like something was holding it to not go forward, the temperature was coming up slowly i just did the last meter of the road with 5 mph till i arrived to the top of the hill. I let my jeep cool down 4 all night long and when tomorrow came the moment to return home the jeep started pretty fine and was working well, when i put the level to D and even with 2 and 1 it just cant even climb just a small road it doesnt have power. i checked for codes and what it came up was the P0123, P0118, P1281. any advise or something. the motor run just fine if i dont put the level gear, and something else. when i was on a strait road the vehicle was hardly geting acceleration till 2000 rpm and it gears up and down all the gears, but when it comes to 2000 rpm it does something like bumpin forward and back like a med horse.
thnx in advance.
Jeep Grand cherokee WJ 4.0i 2004 Laredo with selec track.
thnx in advance.
Jeep Grand cherokee WJ 4.0i 2004 Laredo with selec track.
magnaflo exhaust wanted
looking for a used catback magnaflo exhaust for a 1996 jeep grandcherokee laredo 4.0 il6
possibly new parts separete if its cheap enough
possibly new parts separete if its cheap enough
Yukon 4340 in 8.8
dimanche 25 mai 2014
If keep the stock 8.8 C-clip shaft and add the ARB locker, can I later go to the Yukon shafts using the same locker and gears? I'd like to get some miles on the stock shafts as I save for the Yukon's. How involved is adding the non c-clip Yukons? I can't weld but can do normal wrench turning tasks.
Thanks
Thanks
Factory OEM Genuine Jeep Wrangler Rear Bumper Right And Left Side Step End Cap
http://ift.tt/1iiOzdj
Factory OEM Genuine JEEP
Rear Bumper End Caps
Both right and left sides
Fits 2011 - 2012 Jeep Wrangler with the "Winch Ready" HD Bumper. Sales Code MDF
This is the rear step end cap for the passenger and drivers side. It does NOT have a hole for a HD Spare tire carrier.
This includes ONLY what you see in the pictures.
Mopar only sells these as part of a kit. Replace that Broken / Dented end cap on your jeep and save $$$.
List price is $507.00
If you are not 100% sure that this part will fit your vehicle, Contact me with your VIN and I can ensure that you get the correct part for your specific vehicle.
Item will ship within 3 days of payment
FREE SHIPPING!!!
Factory OEM Genuine JEEP
Rear Bumper End Caps
Both right and left sides
Fits 2011 - 2012 Jeep Wrangler with the "Winch Ready" HD Bumper. Sales Code MDF
This is the rear step end cap for the passenger and drivers side. It does NOT have a hole for a HD Spare tire carrier.
This includes ONLY what you see in the pictures.
Mopar only sells these as part of a kit. Replace that Broken / Dented end cap on your jeep and save $$$.
List price is $507.00
If you are not 100% sure that this part will fit your vehicle, Contact me with your VIN and I can ensure that you get the correct part for your specific vehicle.
Item will ship within 3 days of payment
FREE SHIPPING!!!
Changed heater core now Jeep won't start
I changed the heater core in my '04 Wrangler now it won't start. The starter cranks but the engine won't turn over. The only thing I can think of is a 6-pin connector with 4 wires near the steering column I found but can't find where it connects to.
transfer case drop question.
Just installed new Zone lift. 2 inch. Looks like the drive shaft angle is off. Installed 4 degree shims but thinking I will need a TC drop. Question. What's the usual drop height? I'll have a buddy make me spacers just need to know how far? Thanks
Honalula HI lacks Grand Cherokees
So I've been here in Hawaii for 6 days and have seen every thing from Lambos to Escalades and every SUV there is. I've only seen two jeep grand Cherokees one a limited and one an overland. Don't understand y there are none. I'm assuming all the SUVs are two wheel drive. Off topic...... I also saw the Russian billionaires yaht "A" worth $300 million.
82 CJ7 Front Driveshaft
I need a front driveshaft for my 1982 CJ7 with a Dana 300 Transfer case. Thanks, Craig
Transmission ideas
Got an 85 cj with a I6 and a t 4 transmission, pretty sure I trashed it this weekend and I'm looking for an upgrade. I want to stay with a standard, but if I went with a auto do y'all know what trans would be compatable with my transfer case which is a Dana 300. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
'02 liberty 3.7 parts
Got this liberty for $100 with a blown motor #6cylinder 0 compression found shattered piston damaged head broken timing chain tensioner. Need some help finding parts cheap. whitejames555@yahoo.com
Attachment 1364065
Attachment 1364065
New guy here
Been lurking a little while. About to get back in the Jeep game. I owned a moderately built XJ in college and was on NAXJA before it was even called that. I sold my Jeep 12 years ago and have been itching to get back into one. Just sold my bassboat because I could never find time to drag it to the lake with 3 kids at home so Im on the lookout for a TJ to tool around in on the weekends. Looks like a great forum.
Removing injectors and/or seals on cylinders 4 and 5 on WJ (WG) CRD 2.7. Pic thread.
I need to do the No 5 injector seal on my CRD. If you have one you will know that these cannot be got to without lowering the engine.....but there is another, easy way. I was going to do a "How To" picxture thread but then I found this which is just about the same as I do it. Ive done this before on a friend WJ and its easy and takes rather less time than claimed by the poster!
I posted this in my "Exhaust smell in cabin" thread but just in case you did not see that or need to do the job Ive posted it here. Will also make it easier to search for future referance. Good luck if you take it on but there is nothing to it so go for it! Dont forget you need a new seal and and new injector stretch bolt EVERY time its removed.:thumbsup:
http://ift.tt/1poigP0
Cheers!
I posted this in my "Exhaust smell in cabin" thread but just in case you did not see that or need to do the job Ive posted it here. Will also make it easier to search for future referance. Good luck if you take it on but there is nothing to it so go for it! Dont forget you need a new seal and and new injector stretch bolt EVERY time its removed.:thumbsup:
http://ift.tt/1poigP0
Cheers!
97 4.0 tcc solenoid shifter bracket
Ok noob here maybe a dumb question but I'm trying to replace my tcc and it has a connecter on the top of the valve body so there forth I had to drop the valve body. That's all good until I get to the point of where I could not figure out how to get the bracket off for the shift linkage but most importantly the kick down cable. I think the part that is biting me in the rear is that the tranny is still in the car and it is almost impossible to see up there. I removed the bolt for the clamp on the shifter linkage but could not figure out the darn kick down cable. It's throwing the p740 code at me failed emissions due to bad breaker or something to the a torque conversion clutch solenoid. Please help me come familiar with that bracket so I don't have to pull the transmission to see what's going on and what keeps that bracket on there. It's a 97 zj limited with the 4.0 and quadra trac drivetrain. Thank you all so much for your time!
jeep shorted out camping please help
samedi 24 mai 2014
96 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo. Had the car charger pluged in with two phones charging, went to start it and the jeep shorted out. I thought I had it fixed, cut the wire from the back of the power outlet thinking it would fix it. Started. Once now it won't . go to start it and the jeep just blacks out. Only way to get power back is unpluging battery and plugging it back in. Any ideas??
04 gc 4.0 qd
I just ordered a new DS from Tom Woods. he asked for the Model number and it was a247 he said you have a 32 spline but as im reading on some posts here that the 247 has 27. can anyone tell me for sure seing that i already ordered it based on what they said i have.
AC blows hot, then cold -- door or switch?
My AC blows hot sometimes and then cold. I have to turn the temp knob back and forth several times before it blows cold. Is this a problem with the HVAC switch panel or the blend door? I have a Limited with the auto temp, but the problem happens on both auto and manual settings.
I need help with my sputtering YJ
I Need Help.
My Jeep has been having a problem on and off for the last year and a half and every mechanic I take it to says they won't try, or can't fix it. Christmas day, 2012 I drove it to the gas station. On the way there it sputtered like it was out of gas. I filled it up, it sputtered once, then It was fine.
Shortly after It would do it again. When you press the gas it would not accelerate, and it would sputter acting as if it was out of gas, or something of that nature. so I changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, and sea-foamed it.
It ran fine for about a week or two. Then it happened again. So I took it to the mechanic. He diagnosed the spark plugs, changed it, and called it a day.
Again, ran fine for about a month, and then did it again. So I took it to an old-time mechanic my friend knew. he said it was the fuel pump. so I changed the fuel pump.
This time it ran fine for about two months. I took it off-road once in that time, and then I went to a friend's house. about two hours later I left, and it did it once again. Just sputtering, and no power or acceleration.
Since then I changed the O2 sensor, and another one, I forget which one so I will look it up and add it in the comments. both made it run fine, so I drove it to college (180 Miles) and had no problem there.
Once at college I had the problem again. I took it to a mechanic there and he said it was the Catalytic Converter. So I cut it off, and it ran fine all the way back home.
The day after I got home it did it again. So I checked the distributor cap, and rotor. both were very rusty so I replaced both, and sanded the rust off of the spindle the rotor rotates on.
Ran fine that night and the next day. then it started doing it again.
I am just not sure what to do anymore.
Jeep is a 94' YJ with a 92' driveline. Had the Jeep for about 3-4 years, and this problem Occurred after I put several thousand miles on it.
My Jeep has been having a problem on and off for the last year and a half and every mechanic I take it to says they won't try, or can't fix it. Christmas day, 2012 I drove it to the gas station. On the way there it sputtered like it was out of gas. I filled it up, it sputtered once, then It was fine.
Shortly after It would do it again. When you press the gas it would not accelerate, and it would sputter acting as if it was out of gas, or something of that nature. so I changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, and sea-foamed it.
It ran fine for about a week or two. Then it happened again. So I took it to the mechanic. He diagnosed the spark plugs, changed it, and called it a day.
Again, ran fine for about a month, and then did it again. So I took it to an old-time mechanic my friend knew. he said it was the fuel pump. so I changed the fuel pump.
This time it ran fine for about two months. I took it off-road once in that time, and then I went to a friend's house. about two hours later I left, and it did it once again. Just sputtering, and no power or acceleration.
Since then I changed the O2 sensor, and another one, I forget which one so I will look it up and add it in the comments. both made it run fine, so I drove it to college (180 Miles) and had no problem there.
Once at college I had the problem again. I took it to a mechanic there and he said it was the Catalytic Converter. So I cut it off, and it ran fine all the way back home.
The day after I got home it did it again. So I checked the distributor cap, and rotor. both were very rusty so I replaced both, and sanded the rust off of the spindle the rotor rotates on.
Ran fine that night and the next day. then it started doing it again.
I am just not sure what to do anymore.
Jeep is a 94' YJ with a 92' driveline. Had the Jeep for about 3-4 years, and this problem Occurred after I put several thousand miles on it.
Clayton Off Road - Custom Narrow Johnny Joints
Custom Narrow Johnny Joints
Our new custom forged johnny joints have arrived. Narrow housing, 5" shank, 1 piece bushing with 1/2 bolt hole.
Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road
Airbag warning light
2012 Jeep Liberty Limted 4X4 15645 mileage. Just got it back from service to repair yesterday.Just for info there is a recall to upgrade software to computer for this vehicle for this problem. Owners look for this in the mail soon.:rtft:
Currie HD steering.
I was just wondering, aside from strength, is there any reason to go with a Currie HD steering kit over something like a ZJ kit? I have some issues with some boots on my current ZJ kit, so I was wondering if (when this setup fails) it makes sense to go to the Currie setup, even though my ZJ setup as been strong enough for me.
I notice the Currie kit mentions a 4" lift... so am I reading too much into it in thinking that maybe it will have better angles or clearance than a ZJ setup?
I notice the Currie kit mentions a 4" lift... so am I reading too much into it in thinking that maybe it will have better angles or clearance than a ZJ setup?
Rear bumper options
I'm looking into getting a new rear bumper for my 05 TJ. I know that I want it to have an integrated tire carrier and I would like to keep it around $700 but I have no idea what's good for that price. Smittybilt seems to be a good option with the XRC bumper but I'm curious to see if there is anything better out there.
Any other emergency personnel here?
Just got a 07 grand, already have my dash light installed but really have NO clue on where to put my speaker or siren box, any advice??
258 High Idle, Hard to Shut Off
vendredi 23 mai 2014
Another weekend, another problem.
Been driving beautifully, now out of the blue it has a high idle problem. It started while I was driving around town, was already warmed up.
258 w/ Offy intake and Holley 4bbl carb with electric choke.
I have tried turning down the idle screw, unplugging the electric choke and the vacuum advance to no avail.
It idles at roughly 2k and is hard to shut off, it diesels for a few cranks before finally dying.
Could it have something to do with the ignition control module or idle control box (in a previous thread I might have an undiagnosed ignition control module problem)?
Some pics for reference:
Been driving beautifully, now out of the blue it has a high idle problem. It started while I was driving around town, was already warmed up.
258 w/ Offy intake and Holley 4bbl carb with electric choke.
I have tried turning down the idle screw, unplugging the electric choke and the vacuum advance to no avail.
It idles at roughly 2k and is hard to shut off, it diesels for a few cranks before finally dying.
Could it have something to do with the ignition control module or idle control box (in a previous thread I might have an undiagnosed ignition control module problem)?
Some pics for reference:
Front end shakes on acceleration
Purchased 2014 Cherokee limited 4 months ago. Love the car, but it's going back to the dealer for the 4th time. Front end shakes when acceleration in stop/go traffic. Rotors were turned, no better. New rotors installed, worse. New rotors turned, no better. Claim rotors were warped. Both sets??? Anyone have similar issue? Seems to me the rotors aren't the cause (?).
Need to vent about a shop
I needed some new upper control arms installed on my jeep and to have the pinion angle dialed in for a SYE CV shaft. I called around to a couple of the local shops and described what I needed done. The first two didn't seem to have a clue, and I ended up simply hanging up on one shop when the mechanic said he didn't understand how the control arms would change the pinion angle:thumbdown:
I needed it done before the weekend and at this point I had more money then time or I would have spent 2 hours and done it myself. I finally find a shop that assures me they can handle it. i drop it off 2 hours early and they said they were slow so it would get right in. Finally 5 hours later I call to check on the progress. They have the arms installed, but they rotated the axle so far that the shocks hit the coil buckets. It had apparently been just sitting for 4 hours. It is now 4pm and they are getting ready to close up shop. I advise them it is a common problem and they simply need to flip the shocks around//and or grind some of the coil bucket off. They want to take the shock mounts off and move them. I say no, Im not going to pay for the labor to do that. They promise to get right on it today and call me if there are any other problems. About 11 oclock I show up at the shop the shocks are hanging by the upper mounts and I ask what is the problem. The mechanic says the upper mount is different then the lower and he cant turn them upside down. At this point I about blow my top. Again the rig has been sitting for 3 hours without a phone call and he can't figure out how to switch the bar/pin and bushings????
I had some new shocks that have been waiting to be installed, I go home get them bring them back to the shop and show him that he simply needs to press the bushing out. He stares at it dumbly and says " How am I going to get that bar pin out????
I loose my temper at this point get the manager and say "I shouldn't have to hold your &**(^&& mechanics hand through something this simple. Press the damn bushing out then mount the shock like so, if it still rubs, trim the coil bucket right here."
It is unbelievable to me that any mechanic can't figure out a relatively simply solution. The manager started to get upset and said he didn't have to do any of this to his jeep, which he points out. I say yeah and your also running a big transfercase drop and a stock drive shaft. Then I had to explain to him the difference between the two types of drive shafts and the different pinon angles each one needs.
I am venting I know, but take this as a warning to vet your shops more thoroughly then I did.
I needed it done before the weekend and at this point I had more money then time or I would have spent 2 hours and done it myself. I finally find a shop that assures me they can handle it. i drop it off 2 hours early and they said they were slow so it would get right in. Finally 5 hours later I call to check on the progress. They have the arms installed, but they rotated the axle so far that the shocks hit the coil buckets. It had apparently been just sitting for 4 hours. It is now 4pm and they are getting ready to close up shop. I advise them it is a common problem and they simply need to flip the shocks around//and or grind some of the coil bucket off. They want to take the shock mounts off and move them. I say no, Im not going to pay for the labor to do that. They promise to get right on it today and call me if there are any other problems. About 11 oclock I show up at the shop the shocks are hanging by the upper mounts and I ask what is the problem. The mechanic says the upper mount is different then the lower and he cant turn them upside down. At this point I about blow my top. Again the rig has been sitting for 3 hours without a phone call and he can't figure out how to switch the bar/pin and bushings????
I had some new shocks that have been waiting to be installed, I go home get them bring them back to the shop and show him that he simply needs to press the bushing out. He stares at it dumbly and says " How am I going to get that bar pin out????
I loose my temper at this point get the manager and say "I shouldn't have to hold your &**(^&& mechanics hand through something this simple. Press the damn bushing out then mount the shock like so, if it still rubs, trim the coil bucket right here."
It is unbelievable to me that any mechanic can't figure out a relatively simply solution. The manager started to get upset and said he didn't have to do any of this to his jeep, which he points out. I say yeah and your also running a big transfercase drop and a stock drive shaft. Then I had to explain to him the difference between the two types of drive shafts and the different pinon angles each one needs.
I am venting I know, but take this as a warning to vet your shops more thoroughly then I did.
Whats with the short arm lifts?
9 times out of ten when I see a built built BUILT!!!!! Jeep it's got a short arm lift.... Whyyyy it's so lame. It makes me think that all new jeeps are mud rigs or MALL crawlers. Why are these lifts so popular?????
AEV Heat Reduction Hood - red, brand new
New flame red AEV hood, never installed. Supposedly has two small impressions probably due to the "screen" being overtightened. A snorkel will probably hide the one if it is a big concern. Looking for a flame red JK(U) buyer before I reduce the price for an owner of another color.
$1200 new painted to match - asking $900 cash OBO. Could possibly deliver to the DC area Saturday 5/24 if the price is right.
$1200 new painted to match - asking $900 cash OBO. Could possibly deliver to the DC area Saturday 5/24 if the price is right.
How to test NP231 Oil Pump
I need to check if my NP231's Oil Pump is working. I got the advice, that when the rear output yoke (AA SYE) is removed and the motor is idling (or at 20mph) in gear the oil should splatter out as long as the pump is operating properly. - Is that correct? :confused:
Thanks for your support guys.
Thanks for your support guys.
33x12.5r15 swampers beadlocks.
33x12.5r15 Tsl swampers low Milage on 15x8 steel beadlocks. Location Terre Haute, Indiana. 47802. Pickup or meet clost to here. They are to heavy to ship. No trades. 1200.
Tie rod Prothane boots
I just changed out all of my TRE boots with prothane boots (mine were all cracked and pretty ruined... ends were still solid though) but I cant seem to get them to seal correctly. Is there a method or something to this? I popped off the old boots (well cut them off) and then put the new boots on, pushed them into place and then put the assembly back together. It looks good, but as soon as I turn, they squeeze out grease. The only joint that doesnt look good is the one that connects the drag link to the tie rod... no matter what I did I couldnt get that boot to sit on the 'lip' of the TRE.
So any advice would be great. :thumbsup:
So any advice would be great. :thumbsup:
Towing M101 with 4 door Rubicon
jeudi 22 mai 2014
Will a 4 door Rubicon tow an M101 military trailer with no difficulty. I'm not sure the specs of the m101 but I think they are about 1700lbs empty and equivalent of 3/4 ton, which would put it at near the capacity for the Rubicon.
Just wondering if anyone has towed one of these behind the JK Unlimited?
Thanks
Just wondering if anyone has towed one of these behind the JK Unlimited?
Thanks
Ocala National Forest Wheelin spots
I'm driving up to palatka this weekend and was looking to do some wheelin while up there. we normally enter the forest at Rodman Reservoir and I was wondering if there were any spots in that area. Im going to be the only vehicle there so I don't want anything to crazy. I have a TJ with a 4 banger lifted 3" on 31" Firestone Destination M/T's. My dad grew up in that area but since they re numbered the roads he has had a hard time finding the spots he used to go to. And the ones we have found are now illegal to drive in (The big sand pit right at the entrance near Rodman used to be his party spot).
I need money to go wheeling
i need some xtra cash to go wheeling this weekend so if anyone is looking for a set of vdo gauges i have them on ebay right now
http://ift.tt/1kuvuZS
you can see all of them there
thanks guys if you have any questions pm me or text/call
570-780-5976
Pat
http://ift.tt/1kuvuZS
you can see all of them there
thanks guys if you have any questions pm me or text/call
570-780-5976
Pat
3/4" D-Ring Recovery Shackles
For your consideration is a set of four 3/4" D-Ring Recovery Shackles painted red. Two of them are Crosby shackles and retail for ~$24.99 each and the bottom two are ARB and retail for ~$12.99 each. Both have 7/8" Diameter Pins and have a working load limit of 4.75 Tons. These have never been used in a pull or recovery. Price is $45.00 shipped anywhere in the continental US. For payment, I can accept money orders or PayPal and thanks in advance for your interest.
Noob with an XJ in Maryland
As the title implies, I just acquired myself a nice 2000 Jeep Cherokee as of a few weeks ago! Got her for a good price with 181,000 miles on it and as clean as I've ever seen a vehicle! Seriously, new cars on the lot have more dirt in the engine bay than this rig did when I bought it! Well it didnt take long before i started taking her apart. I think i put maybe 30 miles on it before she went up on the lift to receive a newly bought RC 6.5" LA lift, SYE, 35x12.50 tires on 15x8 Black Rock wheels, Smittybilt front bumper and Rusty's flares. I still have a no name snorkel i bought off of Amazon.com that is in its box waiting to be installed.
So as of this very minute, thats how she is sitting. Ive been lurking around here for a few weeks now while i was building my jeep into what she is now, so i figured now would be a good time as any to join!
Well I will see you out in the forums. Ive got many, many more plans for this Jeep and I know i will have lots of questions as I go.
HAPPY JEEPIN'! :cheers:
So as of this very minute, thats how she is sitting. Ive been lurking around here for a few weeks now while i was building my jeep into what she is now, so i figured now would be a good time as any to join!
Well I will see you out in the forums. Ive got many, many more plans for this Jeep and I know i will have lots of questions as I go.
HAPPY JEEPIN'! :cheers:
wj seats
Came out of an 01 limited leather heated seats light grey color will not ship due to size $200 obo
Budget DeBuild
Basically I went from a mild 3" lifted 2000 TJ with 33's
I liked it, but the frame was starting to go.. blah blah
So I picked up a 2006 Rubicon
low miles
RoughCountry 6" Long Arm kit
315/75/16's
Fab four Bumpers front and rear.
PO was a meathead so i ended up replacing all ujoints/ball joints and all that fun stuff.
I've since swapped the ****ty RC shocks for Bilstein 5100's and added a winch.
Now I've been driving it like this for a little over a year and now it's time for tires.
I want to go back down to a 285/75/16.
I have long arms but no need for 6" of lift. I'd like to lower it to around 2-3" of lift, just enough to clear the 285/75/16's and sit nice. Eventually doing a mml/belly up to regain my clearance.
Now this jeep is and will continue to be my DD, rarely wheeled (when I have the time) maybe a couple weekends every 2-3 months and nothing serious either, just mild trails.
I'm looking for the best bang for my buck.. I want to spend as little money as possible and still maintain a good/comfortable ride.. well as good as a jeep will get anyway.
I'm not mechanically inclined but from what I've read I'll need:
-coils or combination of coils/ body lift(need for the belly up anyway)
- cut or get new sway bar discos
-factory pitman arm
- Shocks are 6" bilstein 5100's (fr pt# 24-185943) (r pt# 33-185934) , so probably new shocks.
- adjust bumpstops
Am i missing something?
So my plan is:
2-2.5" coils, 1-1.25" BL, 1"MML
Shocks
I just paid near $500 for my bilsteins and hate to get rid of them. I hear JK shocks can be fitted to a TJ with a little work ( bar pin eliminators) and can be had for very cheap... a little bit of work is worth paying 3x the price for more bilsteins and they should provide a good ride.
Coils
I've heard the same for JK coils, add heat to the upper bumpstop cups in the rear and it nets you 2-3" lift in the rear?
Not sure about the front, pretty sure they'll go right in? but not much lift? I'd rather not use spacers. Unless the were from a JKU and stiffer?
Like i said I'm not too sure.
If not, what are some good, cheap coils? A happy medium?
Tires
I've been quoted a good deal on 285/75/16 Hercules Trail Digger M/Ts, opinions on this tire?
Sorry for the long post, but do you guys have any input? or pictures of your rigs with similar set ups would be great... a pic of a tj lifted 2"/long arms/33's would be great
:2thumbsup:
thanks
Dan
I liked it, but the frame was starting to go.. blah blah
So I picked up a 2006 Rubicon
low miles
RoughCountry 6" Long Arm kit
315/75/16's
Fab four Bumpers front and rear.
PO was a meathead so i ended up replacing all ujoints/ball joints and all that fun stuff.
I've since swapped the ****ty RC shocks for Bilstein 5100's and added a winch.
Now I've been driving it like this for a little over a year and now it's time for tires.
I want to go back down to a 285/75/16.
I have long arms but no need for 6" of lift. I'd like to lower it to around 2-3" of lift, just enough to clear the 285/75/16's and sit nice. Eventually doing a mml/belly up to regain my clearance.
Now this jeep is and will continue to be my DD, rarely wheeled (when I have the time) maybe a couple weekends every 2-3 months and nothing serious either, just mild trails.
I'm looking for the best bang for my buck.. I want to spend as little money as possible and still maintain a good/comfortable ride.. well as good as a jeep will get anyway.
I'm not mechanically inclined but from what I've read I'll need:
-coils or combination of coils/ body lift(need for the belly up anyway)
- cut or get new sway bar discos
-factory pitman arm
- Shocks are 6" bilstein 5100's (fr pt# 24-185943) (r pt# 33-185934) , so probably new shocks.
- adjust bumpstops
Am i missing something?
So my plan is:
2-2.5" coils, 1-1.25" BL, 1"MML
Shocks
I just paid near $500 for my bilsteins and hate to get rid of them. I hear JK shocks can be fitted to a TJ with a little work ( bar pin eliminators) and can be had for very cheap... a little bit of work is worth paying 3x the price for more bilsteins and they should provide a good ride.
Coils
I've heard the same for JK coils, add heat to the upper bumpstop cups in the rear and it nets you 2-3" lift in the rear?
Not sure about the front, pretty sure they'll go right in? but not much lift? I'd rather not use spacers. Unless the were from a JKU and stiffer?
Like i said I'm not too sure.
If not, what are some good, cheap coils? A happy medium?
Tires
I've been quoted a good deal on 285/75/16 Hercules Trail Digger M/Ts, opinions on this tire?
Sorry for the long post, but do you guys have any input? or pictures of your rigs with similar set ups would be great... a pic of a tj lifted 2"/long arms/33's would be great
:2thumbsup:
thanks
Dan
2.5'' and staying - Adjustable control arms or stock?
I have a 2.5'' spring lift on my WJ with about 140k miles. I'm currently running some JK take off wheels and tires and I anticipate running a 285/65R18 in the very near future.
The bushings are shot in my arms so I've been researching replacements. I plan to stay at 2.5'' and trim as needed.
Would I be better served by the adjustable arms at a higher cost or stock arms for a little less?
The bushings are shot in my arms so I've been researching replacements. I plan to stay at 2.5'' and trim as needed.
Would I be better served by the adjustable arms at a higher cost or stock arms for a little less?
After ecm install one coil melted
Hey guys I install a programmed ecm on my 01 grand cherokee 4.7 and a few minutes after one of the plug coils start it to melt any suggestions would b very help ful
What would you do with a set of spare axle assemblies
Swapped out the front and rears with 3.07 and replaced with a set that had 4.10 gears.
I have tried listing on CL and a few other places to sell them and seems the only way I can move them on is to pay someone to take them.
So with that, What would you do with a set of spare axle assemblies with 3.07s?
Maybe it's best to just drop them at the junk yard?
I have tried listing on CL and a few other places to sell them and seems the only way I can move them on is to pay someone to take them.
So with that, What would you do with a set of spare axle assemblies with 3.07s?
Maybe it's best to just drop them at the junk yard?
Bigger gas tanks?
I am considering replacing the 15gal steel gas tank with a 21gal polyethylene tank to give me better range.
Anyone know how much lower the bigger tank will hang? Will it negatively impact my off-road clearance?
I have an '82 CJ7, 258, 2.5" spring lift and 32" tires.
Any advice or info appreciated.
Lou
Anyone know how much lower the bigger tank will hang? Will it negatively impact my off-road clearance?
I have an '82 CJ7, 258, 2.5" spring lift and 32" tires.
Any advice or info appreciated.
Lou
Frustration...
mercredi 21 mai 2014
frustration is getting a picture of your brand new tires sitting in your garage while you are 7000 miles away and not being able to put them on your jeep until september
For anyone that is wondering what dick cepek fun country tires look like, thats them. 315x75x16
For anyone that is wondering what dick cepek fun country tires look like, thats them. 315x75x16
AX15 Rattle
I was driving down the highway tonight and all of the sudden I hit a bump and then heard a constant rattle coming from my transmission. It was similar to the noise here http://ift.tt/1jFhEVR
There was a small leak and so I am inclined to believe what some of the articles I have read are telling me. Other ax15 rattles have been caused by lack of fluid possibly caused by a poor seal. The rattling is persistent through all speeds and even when idling. The leak was located towards the rear of the transmission it looked like. After the rattling started I drove it under 45mph for about 3 miles until I got off the highway and was fortunately able to park at an Aamco right off the street.
The tranny is a new rebuild I bought a year ago from smart parts auto and the warranty unfortunately let out last month.
What are some possible causes for the rattle?
And should I pay to have aamco look at it? I don't want to do it myself because I ended messing up the original when I took it apart and had to get the current tranny that I'm having problems with now.
Much thanks!
There was a small leak and so I am inclined to believe what some of the articles I have read are telling me. Other ax15 rattles have been caused by lack of fluid possibly caused by a poor seal. The rattling is persistent through all speeds and even when idling. The leak was located towards the rear of the transmission it looked like. After the rattling started I drove it under 45mph for about 3 miles until I got off the highway and was fortunately able to park at an Aamco right off the street.
The tranny is a new rebuild I bought a year ago from smart parts auto and the warranty unfortunately let out last month.
What are some possible causes for the rattle?
And should I pay to have aamco look at it? I don't want to do it myself because I ended messing up the original when I took it apart and had to get the current tranny that I'm having problems with now.
Much thanks!
TJ Rear taillight covers
I have a set of TJ taillight covers in chrome, they need cleaned up but good to go. JEEP OEM from the dealership. Looking for $20 plus shipping or trade?
instatrunk is also for sale
how to screenshot on windows 7
instatrunk is also for sale
how to screenshot on windows 7
*1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Edition 4.7 V8 4WD Black on Black *
Price has been reduced. $4200.
Super clean 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 V8 and Automatic Transmission. Quadra Trac 2 4WD system. Engine is silky smooth and transmission shifts flawlessly. 4WD system is excellent. Just serviced by Fishers Garage and ready to drive across the country. COMPLETE engine rebuild. NO ROD KNOCK. Black Paint in great condition and Black leather interior in great shape. Premium Sound system. All Windows and Sunroof completely functional. All buttons and systems work like new. Factory Towing Package with Hitch/Receiver and Trans Cooler. Good Fuel Economy and very comfortable.
Cruise Control
Power Windows
Power Locks
CD
Leather
Sunroof
Roof Rack
Towing Package
Only known issues:
-AC needs a recharge
-Steering Wheel off centered
-Small leak on passenger floorboard with heavy rain (seems to be typical wj issue)
Feel free to give me a call if you have any additional questions. 404-660-4743. Thank you.
click image upload
WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 Auto Quadra Trac 2 4WD.
Super clean 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 V8 and Automatic Transmission. Quadra Trac 2 4WD system. Engine is silky smooth and transmission shifts flawlessly. 4WD system is excellent. Just serviced by Fishers Garage and ready to drive across the country. COMPLETE engine rebuild. NO ROD KNOCK. Black Paint in great condition and Black leather interior in great shape. Premium Sound system. All Windows and Sunroof completely functional. All buttons and systems work like new. Factory Towing Package with Hitch/Receiver and Trans Cooler. Good Fuel Economy and very comfortable.
Cruise Control
Power Windows
Power Locks
CD
Leather
Sunroof
Roof Rack
Towing Package
Only known issues:
-AC needs a recharge
-Steering Wheel off centered
-Small leak on passenger floorboard with heavy rain (seems to be typical wj issue)
Feel free to give me a call if you have any additional questions. 404-660-4743. Thank you.
click image upload
WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 Auto Quadra Trac 2 4WD.
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