How difficult is it to remove the tailgate on a JKU?
Cargo lamp lens displacement or removal
I received my new headliner material in the mail from Hancock Fabrics. It looks pretty good. A little darker than my stock one, but I expected this. When it's done, it'll just be a classy two-tone, with the console and visors a bit lighter.
I am now at the point of removing the upper rear trim panel that the cargo light sits in, but am having a bit of difficulty. I figured that there's a screw under the lens of the cargo lamp and confirmed this by finding a write-up in which the writer mentioned breaking his because of the hidden screws. OK, now that I know they're in there, how do I get to them? I'm pretty sure that I have to pry somewhere on the lens, but haven't figured it out. I don't want to break it, so if anyone knows, please advise. The book says to pry in the "slots provided", but I'm not seeing anything that obvious. I'm thinking that the way it pivots, I might have to pry from the side, thereby releasing the pivots themselves. Anybody? Thanks ahead of time. Cheers.
I am now at the point of removing the upper rear trim panel that the cargo light sits in, but am having a bit of difficulty. I figured that there's a screw under the lens of the cargo lamp and confirmed this by finding a write-up in which the writer mentioned breaking his because of the hidden screws. OK, now that I know they're in there, how do I get to them? I'm pretty sure that I have to pry somewhere on the lens, but haven't figured it out. I don't want to break it, so if anyone knows, please advise. The book says to pry in the "slots provided", but I'm not seeing anything that obvious. I'm thinking that the way it pivots, I might have to pry from the side, thereby releasing the pivots themselves. Anybody? Thanks ahead of time. Cheers.
506W Alpine do you have this problem
If you have a '14 with the 9-speaker/alpine 506 watt amp/subwoofer package, try this:
Put on a song with the volume set to 9 then go into audio settings open up the eq and turn the treble up . It sounds like the internals of the amp allow crossover points to change letting the low frequency into all the speakers. Then turn the volume to 11 and turn up the base and it will sound clearer most likely the way it was designed to sound.
I tried everything to get rid of this annoying bug including upgrading the uconnect.
Try it and please post whether or not this happens to you.
This video is a Durango but same Uconnect system 7 seat jeep :2thumbsup:
Put on a song with the volume set to 9 then go into audio settings open up the eq and turn the treble up . It sounds like the internals of the amp allow crossover points to change letting the low frequency into all the speakers. Then turn the volume to 11 and turn up the base and it will sound clearer most likely the way it was designed to sound.
I tried everything to get rid of this annoying bug including upgrading the uconnect.
Try it and please post whether or not this happens to you.
This video is a Durango but same Uconnect system 7 seat jeep :2thumbsup:
Door hinge 97 TJ
So I'm putting my jeep back together after a restoration. I had removed the old door bushings and purchased new ones last year(brass). Went to put in the new bushings yesterday and no go. Looking down inside the hinge it appears there is a step about half way down. The new bushings will not go inside the smaller diameter. All four hinges are like this. Has anyone ran into to this? Is there a special bushing. Looking for a solution!
USB under UConnect
I tried googling, but couldn't find an answer.
Just got a 2015 GC Altitude. When I turn the car off, the USB is still powering the iPod or phone that is plugged into it.
Does this time out, or do I have to unplug the iPod each time so that way I do not drain the car battery?
Just got a 2015 GC Altitude. When I turn the car off, the USB is still powering the iPod or phone that is plugged into it.
Does this time out, or do I have to unplug the iPod each time so that way I do not drain the car battery?
Driveline clunking noise at front
Hi guys,
Sadly first thread on here since I need some second opinions on diagnosis for what the issue is, I believe it's something with the front driveshaft.
Here's the essential info:
- Seems to be isolated to the front, doesn't seem to be louder left/right
- Present only when driving; will happen when accelerating or decelerating/braking, does occur when turning
- Noise does NOT occur at all when idling or at rest; engine is functioning normally
- (I have Quadradrive) shifted from 4 All-Time to 4-Low, noise was still present. Shifted back to 4 AT and it was still there
- No visible obstructions to any drivetrain components, no leaks, etc.
- No problems with gear shifting, zero hesitation, etc.
The front DS is the Rezeppa-Rezeppa style, here's some very recent photos of it: http://ift.tt/1Ihr3em
Here's a video of it driving, the sound is most noticeable in the first 20-ish seconds (please excuse the subpar mic on my cellphone), note that it's totally fine when at rest:
Thanks a ton in advance for your guys' help :)
Sadly first thread on here since I need some second opinions on diagnosis for what the issue is, I believe it's something with the front driveshaft.
Here's the essential info:
- Seems to be isolated to the front, doesn't seem to be louder left/right
- Present only when driving; will happen when accelerating or decelerating/braking, does occur when turning
- Noise does NOT occur at all when idling or at rest; engine is functioning normally
- (I have Quadradrive) shifted from 4 All-Time to 4-Low, noise was still present. Shifted back to 4 AT and it was still there
- No visible obstructions to any drivetrain components, no leaks, etc.
- No problems with gear shifting, zero hesitation, etc.
The front DS is the Rezeppa-Rezeppa style, here's some very recent photos of it: http://ift.tt/1Ihr3em
Here's a video of it driving, the sound is most noticeable in the first 20-ish seconds (please excuse the subpar mic on my cellphone), note that it's totally fine when at rest:
Thanks a ton in advance for your guys' help :)
04 Grand Cherokee Limited shifting issue
lundi 30 mars 2015
My 04 Grand Cherokee Limited with the 4.7 has an issue with not shifting into over-drive till it seems to warm up. The trans shifts fine up to hitting OD, the fluid level is good and not burnt looking or smelling. Any help would be great.
LED Rope Light
Roll of LED Flexible rope light. I got this for a project I was going to work on but got a deal on some other rock lights and dont need these any more. My loss your gain. includes adhesive side for easy mounting.
Willing to ship on buyer dime
Willing to ship on buyer dime
Mice in my ZJ - How do they get in???
Does anyone know how mice get inside of a ZJ? The 96 I had and now my 98 both let mice in somehow. I'm not bringing them in but they keep showing up.
Probabky the worst thing possible
So my brakes went out in my 92 4.0 the other day. Come to find out the frame was snapped In FRONT of the driver side shocks so more near the front bumper. The brake line was broke in the middle of the frame pieces. It's my DD. My first thought was to get it welded by a professional and sell it. Now I'm thinking maybe it will be worth driving after it gets welded. If I plan to keep this jeep forever I would eventually get the frame replaced after I graduate college (2 years) when it's not my DD anymore. I'm not worried about getting the weld to pass inspection or anything either. One of my fathers technicians that lives near me said he would come weld it together for me this week.
It's a 92 4.0 5 speed 173,000 miles hardtop full steel doors...
Things I've invested in since I've owned
-brake master cylinder
-brake lines
-transfer case
-alternator
-valve cover gasket
- the transmission was rebuilt last year by previous owner
It does have rust spots but nothing crazy. It's mostly rusty hinges. I haven't owned it that long.
So, do I cut my loses now and sell or am I in too deep and should I drive it with the weld and begin my restoring when I graduate and have the money? I'm just looking to get some extra advise from fellow jeepers and people who maybe have been in the same boat.
Thanks fellas!
It's a 92 4.0 5 speed 173,000 miles hardtop full steel doors...
Things I've invested in since I've owned
-brake master cylinder
-brake lines
-transfer case
-alternator
-valve cover gasket
- the transmission was rebuilt last year by previous owner
It does have rust spots but nothing crazy. It's mostly rusty hinges. I haven't owned it that long.
So, do I cut my loses now and sell or am I in too deep and should I drive it with the weld and begin my restoring when I graduate and have the money? I'm just looking to get some extra advise from fellow jeepers and people who maybe have been in the same boat.
Thanks fellas!
HELP! My jeep is "Knocking" and it's im possible to find my engine
I have a 2004 TJ 4 cylinder. Problem is, those were barely made...and it's been insanely hard to find any parts for it.
Now, my engine is knocking, I won't know til april9th whats wrong because they can't even see me til then.
Anyone ever had this problem? The person at Jeepers Den, tried calling a bunch of places to find my engine, problem is, they would need my core to remake the entire thing because no one has it! I need help. Anyone??
Now, my engine is knocking, I won't know til april9th whats wrong because they can't even see me til then.
Anyone ever had this problem? The person at Jeepers Den, tried calling a bunch of places to find my engine, problem is, they would need my core to remake the entire thing because no one has it! I need help. Anyone??
2015 North American Map uConnect 730n RER Update
Any one know where I can find this on the web free download? The only thing i found is at
$179.00...
Thanks
$179.00...
Thanks
1990 2.5 ecu isa
On my yj the Isa isnt extending or retracting. The isa and coolant temp sensors are new. All other sensors test good. I've set tps according to fsm and replaced the b+ latch relay. I've ohm tested every sensor wire back to ecu plug and all test good. I've also tested all the grounds for sensors and main grounds. I'm thinking the ecu is shot. Problem is I can't find a new ecu anywhere. I've takin the ecu apart and don't see any visible signs of failure. With everything plugged in I've tested the voltage on the isa connector. I get somewhere around 9 volts on extend and 8 something on retract. Been a day or two since I tested it. From searching other posts I've determined that you have to have positive on extend and ground on retract to get it to move. Is the ecu not switching the polarity ? I've also removed the isa and bench tested it and it still moves w positive on one and ground on the other and vice versa. Has anyone sent there ecu off and had it rebuilt if so to who? Thanks.
Let's see your factory molded brush guards!
Just by dumb luck, I found one of these this weekend that's in great shape. I just need to change the color. I've searched the forums and the web but didn't see a whole bunch of pictures. I read ChrisHager's writeup and saw a few other pics but I'd like to see more, so let's see 'em! TIA.
CJ guy looking at TJ
Hello, I currently have a 1985 CJ7 I have done quite a bit too. Now the wife would like her own Jeep for a daily driver. I found a nice stock TJ that fits what we are looking for that I am hoping to pick up and adding ~3" lift with 33s, rock sliders, bumpers, winch. I have been doing some research but would like some clarification.
Sounds like the Zone 4.25" lift is often recommended and also the cheapest. I have not seen any complaints, what are the drawback vs. something higher priced like a Rubicon Express lift?
It seems 3" is the tipping point for SYE, I figure even if I do I will just go SYE for good measure. That requires a longer driveshaft correct? I was planing on using the Tera-Flex extreme short shaft since it seems to give the most length and is around the others in price.
Thanks for any advice! :2thumbsup::cheers2:
Sounds like the Zone 4.25" lift is often recommended and also the cheapest. I have not seen any complaints, what are the drawback vs. something higher priced like a Rubicon Express lift?
It seems 3" is the tipping point for SYE, I figure even if I do I will just go SYE for good measure. That requires a longer driveshaft correct? I was planing on using the Tera-Flex extreme short shaft since it seems to give the most length and is around the others in price.
Thanks for any advice! :2thumbsup::cheers2:
Advice welcome: Oil in Air Cleaner; Cylinder 5 low compression
This post is actually on my 88 "Wrongler", but since the carb'd 4.2 is so much more prevalent in the CJ's (and this is where I like to hang out), I felt this would be a good place to ask.
Around 15 years ago I put an Autozone remanufactured engine in the Wrangler. Engine was reman'd by a company called Recon. I have roughly 50k on this motor, and about a year ago I started noticing oil in the air cleaner along with leaking valve cover gaskets, oil pan, rms, etc. At first I suspected a faulty PCV system, so I replaced the valve, and checked the plumbing and all was good. When that didn't help, I checked for vac leaks and again, all good, but still oil in the cleaner. After reading up on this site I knew my next step was a compression test. So FINALLY this weekend I wasn't busy tinkering with any of the other Heeps, and decided to pull the plugs and test. I noticed a cold plug on #5, and sure enough, when I tested compression, all cylinders were around 122-128 but #5 was 60!!! Now, I had also read that the next step is to pour a little oil on top of that piston and see if it raises the number up to confirm bad rings. Guess what Mr Brilliant forgot to do before putting new plugs in and closing the hood? Yep! Didn't try that test.
With that being said, I do plan on pulling all of the plugs again and seeing if the number goes up on 5 with a little oil in the cylinder.
A couple of questions:
-How is this engine even running worth a hoot with that low of compression on that one cylinder? It idles wonderfully.
-If it is the rings on this cylinder, what is the best option? Tear it down and re-ring that one cylinder, or is it time for a full rebuild?
Fuel economy is horrific. My gearing is bad, but it was at around 12mpg and has since dropped to around 8-9 mpg mixed use. I see NO SMOKE from the tailpipe.
The sick thing is that I'm sitting around licking my chops thinking of a plopping a nice stroker in this puppy :rofl:, but that's just silly. This rig is one of my primary hunting vehicles, so I'm not looking for raw horsepower, just reliability.
I'm open for all thoughts! Thanks!!
Pearsall
Around 15 years ago I put an Autozone remanufactured engine in the Wrangler. Engine was reman'd by a company called Recon. I have roughly 50k on this motor, and about a year ago I started noticing oil in the air cleaner along with leaking valve cover gaskets, oil pan, rms, etc. At first I suspected a faulty PCV system, so I replaced the valve, and checked the plumbing and all was good. When that didn't help, I checked for vac leaks and again, all good, but still oil in the cleaner. After reading up on this site I knew my next step was a compression test. So FINALLY this weekend I wasn't busy tinkering with any of the other Heeps, and decided to pull the plugs and test. I noticed a cold plug on #5, and sure enough, when I tested compression, all cylinders were around 122-128 but #5 was 60!!! Now, I had also read that the next step is to pour a little oil on top of that piston and see if it raises the number up to confirm bad rings. Guess what Mr Brilliant forgot to do before putting new plugs in and closing the hood? Yep! Didn't try that test.
With that being said, I do plan on pulling all of the plugs again and seeing if the number goes up on 5 with a little oil in the cylinder.
A couple of questions:
-How is this engine even running worth a hoot with that low of compression on that one cylinder? It idles wonderfully.
-If it is the rings on this cylinder, what is the best option? Tear it down and re-ring that one cylinder, or is it time for a full rebuild?
Fuel economy is horrific. My gearing is bad, but it was at around 12mpg and has since dropped to around 8-9 mpg mixed use. I see NO SMOKE from the tailpipe.
The sick thing is that I'm sitting around licking my chops thinking of a plopping a nice stroker in this puppy :rofl:, but that's just silly. This rig is one of my primary hunting vehicles, so I'm not looking for raw horsepower, just reliability.
I'm open for all thoughts! Thanks!!
Pearsall
Curtis Spare Tire Mount
Anyone using one of these? Seems ok for the money. Do you like it? Pics on the rig.... Looking for a cheap way to carry my spare for now.
http://ift.tt/1BWjfto
http://ift.tt/1BWjfto
Helppp death wobble !!
Hi and thank you for looking at my post. First and formost I have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler rubicon with 33 inch tires (might need new tires soon), 3inch body lift (sky jacker), and have a new steering stabilizer.
Okkkk so for the past year I have been having the death wobbles going 45 to 55 mlp. I have aligned and rotated my tires and still have the same effect. Recently I jacket up the rear tires and noticed that my right rear tire bounces while in gear.
What can be causing my death wobble up front ?? Please help. I am new to having a jeep. Thank you.
Okkkk so for the past year I have been having the death wobbles going 45 to 55 mlp. I have aligned and rotated my tires and still have the same effect. Recently I jacket up the rear tires and noticed that my right rear tire bounces while in gear.
What can be causing my death wobble up front ?? Please help. I am new to having a jeep. Thank you.
CJ Fiberglass mounting bolts torque!
Hello! I am writing cause I have read many articles on how to mount a fiberglass tub to the frame and I read a lot about how easy it is and to buy the installation kit(Rubber roll) and so on etc.... but I can not find anything on how much torque the bolts should be torque down to.I guess I can just keep tighten the bolts down till I hear the glass make sounds but that does not seems right to me. There's got to be a better way to do this.Does anyone knows anything about this? Thanks.:thumbsup:
Dead battery threw an engine code?
dimanche 29 mars 2015
Could a dead battery be the cause of an engine code appearing? I was using running the head lights and kc lights for a little to long with the engine off because I was low on fuel but needed some light to check something outside anyway I got back in the jeep and tried to start it no luck it turned over maybe once and I could tell the battery wasn't all the way dead but. It had just started storming so decided to wait until the storm passed to jump it off 2 hours later I went outside and it started under its own power but now the check engine light is on and I'm really concerned becuase this I have already had her break down on me 4 times in the year ive had her and I just had to drop 5,000 on a new remanufactured s&j long block I am going to have the light checked in the morning but I was wondering if there's anything anyone can tell me now I am just nervous because I am now streched beyond my limit with Repair's.
4.0 heads on fuel injected 258 ?
I am running a freshly rebuilt 258 with new howell injection system. Works great by the way.
I would prefer more power from this engine and would like to consider 4.0 heads but wonder what compatibility issues a person runs into with the Howell system designed for the stock 258.
Anybody with experience on this?
I would prefer more power from this engine and would like to consider 4.0 heads but wonder what compatibility issues a person runs into with the Howell system designed for the stock 258.
Anybody with experience on this?
Oil drips from valve cover gasket
The one dollar question. Any of us that have had the 4.0 engine know the "oil drip" usually from the valve cover gasket. So, how long do you wait until you change the valve cover gasket (vcg). I've changed a few now and it's a simple job. I've now noticed my 04 rubi is leaking (67k miles) a few drops a week from the rear of the vcg. So how long do you all wait, or do you never change it and just throw the broke down empty beer box under it? That's what I use anyway :laugh::laugh: No really, I do.
4.0 crank won't turn by hand.
I recently did some head work to the jeep due to a blown head gasket and after reassembly she will turn over but won't start and she spits up an occasional fireball out of the TB. A member told me it was a timing issue so I pulled the cover and went to align the timing marks and the crank is seized up. I get a little play in the cam sprocket but the crank won't budge for s#!t. Any ideas?
Key cylinder replacement problem
I am trying to replace the key cylinder in my 2000 Cherokee. When I press the release button the cylinder comes out halfway and then get stuck on something. I am at a complete loss as to what the problem could be. This is supposed to be such an easy fix. Can anyone help?
HELP! Blend door actuator issue
I just replaced the blend doors with the aftermarket metal ones. The back door uses the original factory plastic hinge pin. But the front door uses an aluminum pin with a drive pin sticking out to engage the door. Got it all in but now the flats of the aluminum hinge pin do not align with the flats in the actuator when the actuator is turned the way it mounts. Can the inside part of the actuator be turned to align the flats without breaking the actuator or did I just get a bad part? Can't put this back together till I get this working so I'm in a real bind here.
Custom made rear tire carrier for wj
Same as title. Just slides into rear hitch receiver. Back window still opens without folding it down. When you want to open hatch just pull pin and fold down. Holds 5x5 tire for Grand Cherokee wj. Also has 2inch ball so you don't lose your towing capabilites. $150 obo plus shipping from Toledo Ohio.
1979 CJ-7 Build
I picked up this Craigslist CJ-7 a couple of days ago much to the disappointment of my wife who didn't know I was bringing it home (lucky it's still here). Overall it's no in bad shape. Has the 258 inline 6, T5, and Dana 20. It has a replacement tub that's been added at some point. Rust is minimal and has a couple of places that need to be patched. The ultimate end goal is a black/tan combo that I can DD and do some light trail riding.
Attachment 1993793
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Attachment 1993825
Attachment 1993833
Attachment 1993841
Attachment 1993849
Attachment 1993857
First step was to de-chrome this beast and identify all of the safety issues. I know it needs a fuel line and a carb adjustment to even run properly. However it does start and run strong manually adjusting the carb. Overall pretty excited. Hopefully I'll be able to keep up with the thread and document some progress.
Attachment 1993793
Attachment 1993801
Attachment 1993809
Attachment 1993817
Attachment 1993825
Attachment 1993833
Attachment 1993841
Attachment 1993849
Attachment 1993857
First step was to de-chrome this beast and identify all of the safety issues. I know it needs a fuel line and a carb adjustment to even run properly. However it does start and run strong manually adjusting the carb. Overall pretty excited. Hopefully I'll be able to keep up with the thread and document some progress.
ZJ hood deflector
Removed the deflector from my ZJ. Any interest? Pick up in 17976 (pa)
using Jeep Forum app from my couch, or broken down on the side of the road lol
using Jeep Forum app from my couch, or broken down on the side of the road lol
Siderweb shade SW1-TJ
TJ spiderweb shade for 65 bucks. You cover shipping. Text 402-873-2202. Pics upon request. Sold Jeep and don't need anymore. Complete with straps.
WTB: Khaki Soft Top
samedi 28 mars 2015
Searching for a Khaki Soft Top and/or Bikini Top For my 2006 TJ Unlimited aka LJ
There has to be one out there somewhere... Willing to pay a decent finders fee to anyone who finds me the full soft top in new or like new condition. Provided we make the sell. Would still consider anything that's not nearing the end of its life span. 2005-06 w/ window dividers.
Thanks....
There has to be one out there somewhere... Willing to pay a decent finders fee to anyone who finds me the full soft top in new or like new condition. Provided we make the sell. Would still consider anything that's not nearing the end of its life span. 2005-06 w/ window dividers.
Thanks....
Skulls and Flames paint job!
Checkout this totally sic Skull and Flame paint job on Magnum Powers Superchargers SEMA Jeep. One bad *** supercharged TJ!
http://ift.tt/1D3JQdH
http://ift.tt/1D3JQdH
What feature(s) sealed the deal for you buying a JGC
When I bought my first WK2 I had decided on on an Explorer Limited but had to wait a few months for the 2014s to come out (heated rear seats would be offered in 2014). I was trading in a 4-dr sedan for more room to carry baseball equipment.
In May 2013 I saw on new 2014 JGC and liked the looks and decided to look at one. I was amazed at how nice the interior was and impressed with how quiet the JGC was. It was also less of a station wagon that the Explorer. But what really sold me was the 8 speed automatic. Long story short, I liked it so much that I am now on my 2nd WK2.
Was there a feature that really sealed the deal for you when you bought yours?
In May 2013 I saw on new 2014 JGC and liked the looks and decided to look at one. I was amazed at how nice the interior was and impressed with how quiet the JGC was. It was also less of a station wagon that the Explorer. But what really sold me was the 8 speed automatic. Long story short, I liked it so much that I am now on my 2nd WK2.
Was there a feature that really sealed the deal for you when you bought yours?
New to me 09 JK-trans popping out of gear anything else to watch for?
Hi I just bought a 2009 Rubicon with 80K. So far I love it but the transmission has popped out of 1st a couple times twice in two weeks. I saw shift boot replacement may be a fix from the Chrysler. This appears to be a common issue. Anything else to watch out for right away?
More clearance behind gas tanks
My 8.8 is hitting my gas tank, which seems to be a common problem. My options seem to be to shorten my lower arms, get a skid that pushes the tank back, buy a new tank design, try shallow diff cover.
I don't want to spend a fortune, so a new tank seems out of the question. I have an OX locker and it requires their special cover. So I can't go that route, which lots of people promote.
Most control arms don't publish their lengths very well. Ideally, I'd like JJ both sides, but I guess i'm on the desperate side. All I have is:
Most skids advertise the underside clearance, but I've heard of skids that push the tank back and even some that have an indentation at the diff area, but I can't find them.
Anyone know of/which arms shorten or skids that push back?
I don't want to spend a fortune, so a new tank seems out of the question. I have an OX locker and it requires their special cover. So I can't go that route, which lots of people promote.
Most control arms don't publish their lengths very well. Ideally, I'd like JJ both sides, but I guess i'm on the desperate side. All I have is:
- Rokmen go from stock to +3."
- Metal Cloak adjust 1\4" shorter than stock.
Most skids advertise the underside clearance, but I've heard of skids that push the tank back and even some that have an indentation at the diff area, but I can't find them.
- Rokmen pushes the tank back 1".
Anyone know of/which arms shorten or skids that push back?
track bar ball joint
Is the ball joint on the end of the front suspension Track Bar integral to the Track bar [ie. you have to replace the track bar because you cannot replace the ball joint on its own], or can you just replace the ball joint?
2004 jeep liberty parting out
Just blew the motor so parting my jeep out. I'm in Niagara area ontario. Has a set of brand new continentals on 17 chrome rims including spare. Leather heated seats the leather is cracking but I'm not looking to get much for them. If hour interested text me at 289 686 0646
Pink TC fluid
I changed all the fluids in my 03 Rubicon when I bought it in 2012. The TC fluid was pink and I figured there was some water in it.
Since then I have probably changed the fluid a half dozen times and the fluid always comes out pink. The most recent change was after a total of 700 miles of only highway driving - had to change it after fixing a leaking rear seal. Anyway, same story - pink TC fluid.
The crackle test indicates that it is water contamination. But where in the world is the water coming from? Last time I changed the TC fluid I even put the front wheels on ramps to try to get as much of the old fluid out as possible.
Breather connection at TC case is fine and tubing running into engine compartment is OK.
Anyone else experience this and if so, how did you get all the water out?
Since then I have probably changed the fluid a half dozen times and the fluid always comes out pink. The most recent change was after a total of 700 miles of only highway driving - had to change it after fixing a leaking rear seal. Anyway, same story - pink TC fluid.
The crackle test indicates that it is water contamination. But where in the world is the water coming from? Last time I changed the TC fluid I even put the front wheels on ramps to try to get as much of the old fluid out as possible.
Breather connection at TC case is fine and tubing running into engine compartment is OK.
Anyone else experience this and if so, how did you get all the water out?
Stock Suspension, 4" Rear Shocks
I have for sale stock springs and shocks off a 2005 Wrangler. 150,000 miles on it. I also have Rear Upper and Lower as well as Front Lower stock control arms with 110,000 miles. Make an offer!
I also have rear 4" lift pro comp shocks. $30, plus shipping.
I also have rear 4" lift pro comp shocks. $30, plus shipping.
2002 WJ Overland
My father in law is getting little use out of his 2002 WJ Overland with 57k miles. Needless to say after driving it I WANT IT! He has put 300 miles on it in 14 months. I told him it needs to be driven or it will rot. If it were a Ford or Chevy I could care less. :)
The last car I had that was almost all city driving was a 940 Turbo wagon that leaked like a sieve b/c the seals & gaskets, I assume dry rotted. My biggest fear is that I buy this thing and I have dump a bunch of cash in it. My guess is I could by it for +/- $4,500 or better yet gift it for being his official light bulb changer. Long story.
It has a little body damage where he's taken the garage door buck out a few times but nothing I cant beat out from the backside after removing some splash shields. Interior A++. Needs tires. Just put set of DuraTacs on my boy's '98 Sahara. WJ with DuraTracs?
Comments, thoughts?
The last car I had that was almost all city driving was a 940 Turbo wagon that leaked like a sieve b/c the seals & gaskets, I assume dry rotted. My biggest fear is that I buy this thing and I have dump a bunch of cash in it. My guess is I could by it for +/- $4,500 or better yet gift it for being his official light bulb changer. Long story.
It has a little body damage where he's taken the garage door buck out a few times but nothing I cant beat out from the backside after removing some splash shields. Interior A++. Needs tires. Just put set of DuraTacs on my boy's '98 Sahara. WJ with DuraTracs?
Comments, thoughts?
Amc v8 knowledgeable shops in Virginia?
Anyone know of any knowledgeable Amc V8 machine/engine shops in new Northern Virginia?
Lower control arm ID
Hello guys I was wondering if anyone had any idea who makes these the jeep has rock crawler steering rods and such but I can't find this anywhere. This is a jeep that I'm looking to buy and just trying to figure who makes the lift thNks for any help.
Jeep Sputtering need help
vendredi 27 mars 2015
I have a 89 yj that has a transplanted 97 tj 4.0 motor in it all of a sudden when I first start it up when cold it spits sputters and bucks until it warms up then it quits acting up and runs right it is not showing any codes other than evap/emissions it has new pump and injectors and new tps and I have cleaned the IAC but no change any help would be appreciated. Thanks Richard
Xj ladder rack
I am going to be using my XJ for construction work soon (company truck going bye bye) and was wondering if anyone knows of a decent ladder rack. I've seen all sorts of racks but none that look adequate for ladders. At least a 6' hopefully an 8' also. Thank you
Bouncing Idle only when warm
I posted this over in the Engine and Drivetrain section but haven't gotten any responses yet. I figured that this forum gets a lot more traffic
I've got a 2002 TJ with a 4.0 and NV3550
just as background info, I replaced the stock cam with a COMP 68-201-4 (260H) to fix a bunch of noisy lifters, but the cam swap was months ago and the problem just started.
mechanical fan replaced with a taurus E-fan.
otherwise the engine is stock
BEFORE ANYONE SAYS TO CLEAN THE IAC VALVE,
Its been cleaned and the problem persists.
THE PROBLEM
Recently it started revving up at idle once it warms up.
When cold, it'll idle perfectly content at 750 or so.
When rolling to a stop in neutral (or clutch in) itll idle at 900 or so (cold) as soon as i stop completely, it drops to 750
It has done this ever since i got it two years ago, and seems to be normal behavior
Once the temp gage gets to 200 or so, it starts acting weird.
at first, the idle will bounce between ~700 and ~1000 pretty regularly
when rolling to a stop, it holds about 1100 or so, then drops to 700 when stopped, then starts bouncing
after a while of this, the bouncing starts creeping up towards 1000-1100 rpm, especially after driving.
finally, after 5 minutes or so the jeep idles perfectly smooth at 1100 or so and doesn't really drop below that.
Restarting the jeep (even just turning it off for a second) fixes the problem for about 3-5 minutes
I haven't noticed any loss of power, and the engine revs perfectly fine to redline.
It DOES NOT SURGE on the highway or around town AT ALL
once on the pedal, everything is 100% fine.
------
I first cleaned the IAC and although it was slightly sooty, it wasn't terrible.
No fix.
Changed the plugs
No fix
Re-Gapped plugs slightly tighter (0.030) to test for weak coils
No fix
replaced all the vacuum connectors that went between the manifold and charcoal canister/Leak detection pump.
No fix
Disconnected IAC connector
Idle still bounces around, even with the valve connector unplugged
TPS was replaced with the cam swap since i broke the factory one taking it off
any ideas?
the bouncing idle is driving me crazy
I've got a 2002 TJ with a 4.0 and NV3550
just as background info, I replaced the stock cam with a COMP 68-201-4 (260H) to fix a bunch of noisy lifters, but the cam swap was months ago and the problem just started.
mechanical fan replaced with a taurus E-fan.
otherwise the engine is stock
BEFORE ANYONE SAYS TO CLEAN THE IAC VALVE,
Its been cleaned and the problem persists.
THE PROBLEM
Recently it started revving up at idle once it warms up.
When cold, it'll idle perfectly content at 750 or so.
When rolling to a stop in neutral (or clutch in) itll idle at 900 or so (cold) as soon as i stop completely, it drops to 750
It has done this ever since i got it two years ago, and seems to be normal behavior
Once the temp gage gets to 200 or so, it starts acting weird.
at first, the idle will bounce between ~700 and ~1000 pretty regularly
when rolling to a stop, it holds about 1100 or so, then drops to 700 when stopped, then starts bouncing
after a while of this, the bouncing starts creeping up towards 1000-1100 rpm, especially after driving.
finally, after 5 minutes or so the jeep idles perfectly smooth at 1100 or so and doesn't really drop below that.
Restarting the jeep (even just turning it off for a second) fixes the problem for about 3-5 minutes
I haven't noticed any loss of power, and the engine revs perfectly fine to redline.
It DOES NOT SURGE on the highway or around town AT ALL
once on the pedal, everything is 100% fine.
------
I first cleaned the IAC and although it was slightly sooty, it wasn't terrible.
No fix.
Changed the plugs
No fix
Re-Gapped plugs slightly tighter (0.030) to test for weak coils
No fix
replaced all the vacuum connectors that went between the manifold and charcoal canister/Leak detection pump.
No fix
Disconnected IAC connector
Idle still bounces around, even with the valve connector unplugged
TPS was replaced with the cam swap since i broke the factory one taking it off
any ideas?
the bouncing idle is driving me crazy
Procal and TPMS
OK I know this has been done to death on many forums but.........
I have 2014 Rubicon
I set TPMS threshhold to 26 a while back, no problems, warning came on at 26
Now i try to reset lower to 24 and no joy,the warning still comes on at 26
I used the same method, got the two beeps on the horn.
The difference i noticed was that previously when the unit was plugged in the bing bing bing bing bing bing noise preceeded the horn ,but now the horn sounds straight the way.
I'done all the airing up to stupid psi then back down again and pretty much everything suggested on the many threads i have read.
Tried AEV ......if you can get someone to pick up the phone you'll be doing well, they told me the stuff i already read in the forums, All seems a bit vague given that we're talking programming here which always used to be an exact science.
Any Procal Geeks out there ??
I have 2014 Rubicon
I set TPMS threshhold to 26 a while back, no problems, warning came on at 26
Now i try to reset lower to 24 and no joy,the warning still comes on at 26
I used the same method, got the two beeps on the horn.
The difference i noticed was that previously when the unit was plugged in the bing bing bing bing bing bing noise preceeded the horn ,but now the horn sounds straight the way.
I'done all the airing up to stupid psi then back down again and pretty much everything suggested on the many threads i have read.
Tried AEV ......if you can get someone to pick up the phone you'll be doing well, they told me the stuff i already read in the forums, All seems a bit vague given that we're talking programming here which always used to be an exact science.
Any Procal Geeks out there ??
Wheeler Special! Black Steelies w/ 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's Best On/Offroad Tire!
**TIRE WHEEL PACKAGE**
That's right this is the Wheeler Special! Nothing Fancy, but still a nice clean black wheel to give your Jeep the RIGHT look!
In this Tire/Wheel package you are getting
PRO COMP BLACK STEEL WHEELS
Round Hole
Attachment 1989617
Attachment 1989625
D-Ring Hole
Attachment 1989633
Attachment 1989641
Pair them up with 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's these tires are the BEST on and off road tire. They are also GREAT in Snow and Ice (we know). All around this tire is by far the best aggressive tire.
Extreme off-roaders will appreciate the great ride and handling that this mud tire has on the highway. The MTZ has Mickey Thompson's Power Ply™ sidewalls with a special angled third ply to give you high performance handling, better puncture resistance, and improved towing capability.
Advanced Radial Construction for High Mileage & Smooth Ride
Self Cleaning High-Void Tread Lugs for Traction in Mud & Snow
Deep Shoulder Lugs Provide Aggressive Traction and Bold Looks
Enhanced Sidebiters for Added Traction & Protection
Attachment 1989649
(note the wheel shown with the tire is not in this package)
Attachment 1989657
This kit is for 33's on 15" Rims. However if you wanted to do 35's on 15" or 17" just let me know. Quantities are very limited in those sizes.
This package will be mounted and balanced and shipped complete to your door. All you have to do is throw them on your Jeep.
Who's in? Email Erin@Rockridge4wd.com for your quote!
That's right this is the Wheeler Special! Nothing Fancy, but still a nice clean black wheel to give your Jeep the RIGHT look!
In this Tire/Wheel package you are getting
PRO COMP BLACK STEEL WHEELS
Round Hole
Attachment 1989617
Attachment 1989625
D-Ring Hole
Attachment 1989633
Attachment 1989641
Pair them up with 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's these tires are the BEST on and off road tire. They are also GREAT in Snow and Ice (we know). All around this tire is by far the best aggressive tire.
Extreme off-roaders will appreciate the great ride and handling that this mud tire has on the highway. The MTZ has Mickey Thompson's Power Ply™ sidewalls with a special angled third ply to give you high performance handling, better puncture resistance, and improved towing capability.
Advanced Radial Construction for High Mileage & Smooth Ride
Self Cleaning High-Void Tread Lugs for Traction in Mud & Snow
Deep Shoulder Lugs Provide Aggressive Traction and Bold Looks
Enhanced Sidebiters for Added Traction & Protection
Attachment 1989649
(note the wheel shown with the tire is not in this package)
Attachment 1989657
This kit is for 33's on 15" Rims. However if you wanted to do 35's on 15" or 17" just let me know. Quantities are very limited in those sizes.
This package will be mounted and balanced and shipped complete to your door. All you have to do is throw them on your Jeep.
Who's in? Email Erin@Rockridge4wd.com for your quote!
April Instant Rebate: Up to $75 off Flowmaster Products!
This limited time offer is only available through our Customer Service Line. Give us a call at (707) 544-4761!
Xj ecu
Here's my dilemma. I purchased a '99 XJ and lagged on getting the jeep registered. I also let the smog expire. When I went in for the required smog just before the registration expired they told me the jeep failed. We determined that since I swapped the battery that I must now drive something like 300-500 miles and hit all sorts of driving perimeters before the ECU trouble restores. My question: is there a way around this?? The smog guy mentioned restoring the computer to its factory settings but for $300. Any ideas? Thank you!!
Check Engine Light?
Maybe someone can steer me in the right direction ... I have a 2005 V-8 4.7 Grand Cherokee with 96000 miles on it ... the idle on it was fluxuating ocasionally up to around 12000 RPM & down to 5000 RPM ... I brought it into a local repair shop in town with a good reputation & they suggested trying first a BG FUEL INJECTION SERVICE they said it cleans everything out & I was told the engine light may come on after a little & to bring it in & they would reset it ... well it came on they reset it & it was back on after about 10 miles so I went back & it now they say it has a P0420 code ... they said it could be a number of different things from plugs to cats to O2 sensors to exhaust or intake leaks & on & on ... I was told it was just a coinsidence? the plugs had 26000 on them so I changed them to give it a shot, after pulling them out they were ready ... went back & had them reset it & it's back on after about 10 miles ... coinsidence? any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated ...
Blinker flashing quickly
Both my blinkers, front and rear,are flashing...but they are flashing fast as if one of them was burned out.
Would not having side marker lamps cause this, or could I have other issues?
Thanks!
Would not having side marker lamps cause this, or could I have other issues?
Thanks!
Any jeepers in north ms area?
jeudi 26 mars 2015
Looking to find some fellow jeepers in north ms and go riding or meet up. I have a 2011 JK .
Will there ever be a new Wrangler ?
I was just looking at the Wrangler Production Numbers...
Year Total
2003 70,093
2004 77,550
2005 79,017
2006 80,271
2007 129,077
2008 96,752
2009 89,315
2010 105,372
2011 138,096
2012 160,665
2013 210,715
Sales are better than ever. If you were a shareholder would you want to rock the boat? As a CEO I'd hate to be the guy who made the mistake of pushing for a new model introduction. I doubt 2017 will bring in a new design.
Year Total
2003 70,093
2004 77,550
2005 79,017
2006 80,271
2007 129,077
2008 96,752
2009 89,315
2010 105,372
2011 138,096
2012 160,665
2013 210,715
Sales are better than ever. If you were a shareholder would you want to rock the boat? As a CEO I'd hate to be the guy who made the mistake of pushing for a new model introduction. I doubt 2017 will bring in a new design.
97 wrangler warped intake?
I have a 1997 wrangler SE with about 118k miles on it. I just recently replaced my EVAP canister and now my RPM's are going crazy and not matching up. I'll be driving along and it'll take a while for the RPM's to drop back down and sometimes when I'm at 3rpm it'll shoot all the way to 4rpm then back down to 3.
I took it to a local mechanic and they said that my intake could be warped? I replaced my intake manifold about 7 months ago. I've bever heard of them being warped. I thought maybe it was a vacuum leak?
Any ideas on how much a new intake would cost?
I took it to a local mechanic and they said that my intake could be warped? I replaced my intake manifold about 7 months ago. I've bever heard of them being warped. I thought maybe it was a vacuum leak?
Any ideas on how much a new intake would cost?
New Rubicon, slight noice in tranny
I bought a new 15 Rubi with the manual a couple of wks ago, has under 500 miles at this pt. Soon after the purchase we noticed a slight noise in 3rd, (if I barely touch it or slightly push on it, it goes away. Also very slight noise possibly in 5th to. I was going to check the oil to make sure it was full, maybe this weekend.
But after reading all the problems with this tranny, I'm a little worried! I thought that when I take it in for its 1st oil change at the dealer I would have them check it out. Or maybe I should call them now to let them know,(but what good would that do?)
I'm sure its only going to get worse, what kind of tranny's are these anyway? This is one reason I'm getting rid of my 87 YJ because of the crappy shifting issue I had with it after updating everything to a 95 AX15. What the hell is going on anymore, I've got a NV4500 in my Dodge & they have issue's to! Can't anyone build a decent manual transmission anymore?
I'm thinking that maybe before it gets worse I should let a professional repair shop look at it & not let some "bonehead" stealer wrench look at it. OK I'm done *()&^% & moaning, Thanks!!
But after reading all the problems with this tranny, I'm a little worried! I thought that when I take it in for its 1st oil change at the dealer I would have them check it out. Or maybe I should call them now to let them know,(but what good would that do?)
I'm sure its only going to get worse, what kind of tranny's are these anyway? This is one reason I'm getting rid of my 87 YJ because of the crappy shifting issue I had with it after updating everything to a 95 AX15. What the hell is going on anymore, I've got a NV4500 in my Dodge & they have issue's to! Can't anyone build a decent manual transmission anymore?
I'm thinking that maybe before it gets worse I should let a professional repair shop look at it & not let some "bonehead" stealer wrench look at it. OK I'm done *()&^% & moaning, Thanks!!
multiple codes...
So my wife has been driving the free to us ZJ for about half of the winter, mostly because I didn't trust her Crown Vic on the mountain roads and ice... The other day she tells me the CEL was on when she left work, no codes when I go to look... Last night, CEL is back and the voltage gauge is not showing any charge, this morning I go out and start it up, no issues, no light, and it's charging so I send her on her way (this will give me time to find the miss on her Crown Vic...) later thinking it might be an alternator going out I drive to her vet clinic just to give it a once over, now there are codes... 12, 17, 41.
12- battery disconnect (sure this is from it not charging yesterday, not sure why it didn't show it before)
17- engine failed to reach temp...( not a huge surprise her office is only two or three miles away)
41- an open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit. (Ok I got nothing... )
Did some quick searching, half says I have to replace the CAPS in the PCM, the rest say to replace the Alt along with a ton of wiring from the power distribution box out to the Alt and Battery...
So here's my stupid question for the day, has anyone dealt with this issue? How much time am I looking at...?
Not that I'm afraid to get my hands dirty, I already have too many projects going, between the wife's other car, and repairing several sections of fence the dumb horse took out while tryin to trample a few coyotes...
Now I know this is a 23 year old free jeep (still don't have the heart to tell the PO that he over looked the fuel pump when he gave it to me as a parts rig...) and to be frank I'm surprised it's lasted as long as she has...
from my surgically attached iPad
12- battery disconnect (sure this is from it not charging yesterday, not sure why it didn't show it before)
17- engine failed to reach temp...( not a huge surprise her office is only two or three miles away)
41- an open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit. (Ok I got nothing... )
Did some quick searching, half says I have to replace the CAPS in the PCM, the rest say to replace the Alt along with a ton of wiring from the power distribution box out to the Alt and Battery...
So here's my stupid question for the day, has anyone dealt with this issue? How much time am I looking at...?
Not that I'm afraid to get my hands dirty, I already have too many projects going, between the wife's other car, and repairing several sections of fence the dumb horse took out while tryin to trample a few coyotes...
Now I know this is a 23 year old free jeep (still don't have the heart to tell the PO that he over looked the fuel pump when he gave it to me as a parts rig...) and to be frank I'm surprised it's lasted as long as she has...
from my surgically attached iPad
TJ ignition switch going out
Key is sometimes really difficult to turn, tapping it with a screwdriver usually seats the key well enough to start the Jeep. Anyone have any experience changing the ignitions switch out?
98-02 TJ Fog Switch Pigtail
looking to find a fog switch pigtail for a 98-02 tj to use in my 05. Looks like the pic below.
WTB/WTT Bestop Sunrider top
I have a Bestop Supertop and I want a Sunrider. Would buy one outright but would love to trade.
My top is all but new not even on my jeep as I'm restoring it
704-500-6354
My top is all but new not even on my jeep as I'm restoring it
704-500-6354
Speedometer gear - how far out will it be?
Im going to regear my TJ from 3.73 to 4.56, with 33" tires. Right now, I dont know what gear I have in the TC right now, but the speedometer is within 5% accurate (it is less than 5% higher... so if Im going 100km/hour, Im actually going around 103 to 105).
Basically, from experience, how far out can I assume the speedometer will be? I will get the gear eventually, but if its not going to be out substantially, Ill hold off on ordering it for a bit.
Basically, from experience, how far out can I assume the speedometer will be? I will get the gear eventually, but if its not going to be out substantially, Ill hold off on ordering it for a bit.
Most embarrassing part of Your WK
Of course I will start:
All that cash spent, if I get a flat tire, that twenty year old cigarette lighter compressor stuffed up in my storage box will not make me smile.
but...beer:cheers2:
All that cash spent, if I get a flat tire, that twenty year old cigarette lighter compressor stuffed up in my storage box will not make me smile.
but...beer:cheers2:
Superwinch EPI 9.0S motor replacement
Has anyone taken one of these apart? I'm needing to get the motor off so I can get it rebuilt after a recent dunking that caused an internal short and caused it to quit working. Solenoids all checked out fine, as that was my first guess. The diagnostic check on the motor confirmed it to be the problem. It's out of warranty and a replacement is to cost $300+..........whereas a very reputable local auto-electric rebuilder can do it (along with a 90 day warranty) for less than $100. However I can't just bring the whole winch in for that price. I need to detach just the motor and have it built while I do all the other work involved.
Back-up Lights
mercredi 25 mars 2015
I installed these the other day, hooked them into reverse line so comes on when I back up.
ZJ 5.9 trans slipping
Hi everyone, I am having some problem with my transmission lately. Once in overdrive usually around 50+ I notice the rpms fluctuating only about 100 rpms. This only happens if it goes under load like climbing a slight incline or if i accelerate to a higher speed. I have read post about the torque converter unlocking but that cause about a 300-500 rpm fluctuate. Mine is only 100- 150 tops! Also if i dont come to a complete stop (still rolling about 5mph) once I step on the gas again it will slip and the rpms go to 2k and then it goes in hard. This does not happened all of the time. Only sometimes. The rpm issue happens a lot more often but still not every time. My fluid level is about an 1/4 to half over the cross hatch full mark. It has been like this for a while and I never had any problem. I will take some fluid out though to drop the level down. I did replace last year the input or output sensor(don't remember which one). First gear wouldn't shift until like 2500 rpms plus it threw a code indicating the sensor. This time with the trans problem no codes are thrown. Any ideas what it could be? Thanks for the help!
OBD 2 Live HP And Torque Data
I want an OBD tool that shows live HP and Torque reading's I found this...http://ift.tt/1FIXrZR
Wondering If anyone else used this. It says It show It but not sure If It works On WJ's. :cheers2:
Wondering If anyone else used this. It says It show It but not sure If It works On WJ's. :cheers2:
Transmission Service help
I have purchased the correct ATF+4 fluid and the correct filter to do a service on my 2004 4.0l 6cyl. I have read that there could be some issue with the transmission sinking lower when I remove the plate that I have to remove to access the pan. Can someone confirm the steps I have to take to properly change the filter and fluid without screwing anything up.
first post, I thank you in advance.
first post, I thank you in advance.
1983 CJ7 Nutter issue - Calif Compliant
Ok group, I need some help. I heave read over several threads but just dont see this answered. Trying to finish off the Nutter bypass and the hose configuration. Following luckycheeseheads thread on how to do the bypass I got to the part about relocating the vacuum line that runs from the manifold vacuum to the distributor.
Unfortunately this did not exist like in luckcheeseheads thread:
(Not mine)
Mine looks like this:
I took a shot of the vacuum routing tag under the hood:
and zoomed in:
I notated on the zoomed in photo "what is this?" It looks like it has an "M"notated in the middle of the little graphic.
Maybe someone can help me make sense of it all. I checked my FSM 1983 Supplement vacuum routing diagrams and they don't even match the tag under the hood.
Thanks in advance for the help, I am almost there!
Gary
Unfortunately this did not exist like in luckcheeseheads thread:
(Not mine)
Mine looks like this:
I took a shot of the vacuum routing tag under the hood:
and zoomed in:
I notated on the zoomed in photo "what is this?" It looks like it has an "M"notated in the middle of the little graphic.
Maybe someone can help me make sense of it all. I checked my FSM 1983 Supplement vacuum routing diagrams and they don't even match the tag under the hood.
Thanks in advance for the help, I am almost there!
Gary
Cargo area storage rack.
Looking for the best option that works with both hard and soft top. I do not plan on removing the rack once installed. I also looked into the Tuff console but that is a little over kill for me. Lots of options what is the better of them?
Soft clutch some of the time?
Once in a while my clutch pedal gets soft and makes it hard(Impossible) to shift into first. If I let off the clutch and re engage it works fine. This usually happens when I'm at a red light of course. I changed the slave cylinder when I put a new clutch and plate in when I had the engine out a few weeks ago. I bled the slave and have good pedal pressure except the rare occasion that it is soft. I am thinking that the master may be bypassing fluid when it is being held for a while like at a stop light. I don't see any fluid draining inside on the floor and it seems to be holding fluid in the master cylinder. Any ideas?
93 wrangler 2.5
93 wrangler 2.5
42re Tranny Question
Changed the fluid a couple weeks ago.
Read cold its perfectly in within normal limits.
However this is read while shes running.
I dont see any serious leaks.
Am I retarded or is this just how wjs look.
Read cold its perfectly in within normal limits.
However this is read while shes running.
I dont see any serious leaks.
Am I retarded or is this just how wjs look.
Jeep Add-a-trunk
Jeep factory add-a-trunk. Was khaki in color and was painted with krylon fusion to match my black interior. Wouldn't be hard to bring it back to khaki or leave it black. Few scratches here and there but not bad at all.
jeep yj bogging on acceleration
[QUOTE="punishr jeep yj;17924545"]I'm having a problem with my 4.0 93 yj. It will run great until it warms up then it will act as if it's not getting gas. It is driving me crazy please help. I have replaced the fuel pump checked spark plugs changed ignition coil and moved it off the engine block and replaced the tps sensor.
Fuel cell question
mardi 24 mars 2015
So I spoke to my smog guy (california) and he said as long as it is going to pass all the tests he throws at it (i.e. evap) that he will ignore that it isn't a DOT tank. He knows we won't say anything because we've gone to him for 15 years and he use to pass my old jeep that wouldn't even go into closed loop and had the check engine light on.
So here is my question. What exactly do I have to keep from stock to keep it "legal". Stock fuel pump? Stock filler neck?? what exactly do I need to have to make it pass the tests.
So here is my question. What exactly do I have to keep from stock to keep it "legal". Stock fuel pump? Stock filler neck?? what exactly do I need to have to make it pass the tests.
WTB 4.7L Kenne Bell Supercharger
Anyone know where I can get a preferably new or used KB supercharger for the 4.7L?
1995 YJ will not do anything
YJ sat for a few years while I was stationed in Japan. I'm back and trying to get this back on the road. Turn key on, radio comes on, CEL comes on brake light...that's it. No cranking no fuel pump noise nothing. Oil pressure gauge pegs out as well as the fuel level gauge. Im at my end here. New ignition switch, starter tests good and fuel pump tests good. battery test good as well. Any pointers here would be awesome. Thanks in advance.
95 jy 4.0
95 jy 4.0
moab
Access alert from the California Four Wheel Drive Association, Inc.
View this email in your browser
Access Alert from the California Four Wheel Drive Association and its partners
NATIONAL CALL TO ACTION
Help save Moab's Trails
Deadline March 31, 2015
From the BlueRibbon Coalition (BRC)
The Grand County Council has identified over 100 miles of road closures in its proposed Public Lands Initiative (PLI) plan to be submitted to Representative Rob Bishop. This proposal is scheduled to be voted on by the end of the month, so it is imperative for you to take action today!
Utah's Grand County, home to Moab's world class OHV trails, has been participating in Congressman Rob Bishop's Public Lands Initiative, a plan to resolve some of Utah's most contentious public lands issues, including Wilderness and OHV use.
BRC, our member clubs and other stakeholders, including counties, have been involved in the process from the beginning: Utah Land Use Legislation: Threats and Opportunities, Key Players
After last November's elections, Grand County's new Council initiated a process to put finishing touches on its recommendations to Congressman Bishop. OHV users, including Ride with Respect (RwR), Moab Friends-For-Wheelin' and the Red Rock 4-Wheelers have been participating. For the most part, the process had been proceeding in a reasonable direction.
Sadly, the situation has taken a turn for the worse.
Less than twenty-four hours prior to a public hearing on the matter, the new Council removed measures that would have secured long-term OHV access. Before OHV users had a chance to analyze and assess the proposal, the County officially finished the draft plan for submission to Bishop that would close over 100 miles of roads and trails!
Grand County's Draft Plan would eliminate the 10 Mile Wash Road and impose seasonal closures on Hey Joe Canyon, Hell Roaring Canyon and the popular Dead Cow Loop.
That's in addition to thousands of acres of new Wilderness in the Book Cliffs and Dolores River - areas outside of the existing Wilderness Study Areas!
Worse, the County plans to form a committee that would recommend road closures in the Dolores (from Beaver Creek to the south side of Westwater) areas. They expect to close at least half of the non-graded roads.
Obviously, local OHV advocates are disappointed. Not only were some of the proposed closures announced at the last meeting before the Draft was finalized, provisions that allow the remaining routes to be "grandfathered" and protected from future closures were not included in the Draft.
Ride with Respect's Clif Koontz described it this way:
Effectively, the proposal says that several high-quality trails will be closed now, and any number of the remaining trails could be closed later. While they don't intend to close the remaining routes now, they provide no protection from future closures.
WE NEED YOUR HELP!
While the plan is a "draft," the county has allowed less than two weeks for comment. It is therefore imperative that ALL OHV users respond to this important proposal by the March 31, 2015 deadline.
We've taken the time to put together some comment suggestions to make it as easy as possible. Just follow "BRC's 3-Step Action Item" below.
Thanks in advance and, as always, please call or email with questions or concerns.
Ric Foster
Public Lands Department Manager
BlueRibbon Coalition
208-237-1008 ext 107
SITUATION:
The Grand County Council has identified over 100 miles of road closures in its proposed Public Lands Initiative (PLI) plan to be submitted to Representative Rob Bishop. This proposal is scheduled to be voted on by the end of the month, so the final draft will actually be worked on prior to March 31st, 2015
WHY THIS IS SO IMPORTANT:
The Council will vote on a final version of its proposal to Representative Bishop on March 31st, so there's not much time. Environmentalists have been stacking the deck with their comments. It is time we respond and show the council that we care and that we are in the majority. Moab is a mecca for many kinds of recreation, although OHV riding and mountain biking are the only ones restricted to designated routes.
WHAT YOU NEED TO DO:
It is imperative that ALL of us who wish to preserve the access we currently have respond to the Grand County Council and to Representative Bishop before March 31, 2015. Send Your Comments Today!
THREE-STEP ACTION ITEM
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO EMAIL YOUR COMMENTS:
NOTE: Please be civil and, if possible, make your comments as personal as you can. If you can add any personal testimony about your experiences enjoying this spectacular area, please take a minute to add that to your email.
STEP 1: Please send comments - Preferably by email: council@grandcountyutah.net
Or if using express service, mail to - Grand County, Attention: Public Lands, 125 E. Center St.,
Moab, UT 84532 - For questions, call 435-259-1342
STEP 2: Contact Representative Rob Bishop's office
Washington office: 202-225-0453
Ogden office (main Utah office): 801-625-0107
john.newhall@mail.house.gov
STEP 3: Contact your Congressional Representative
Find their contact info: Click Here
Craft your own comments or use the comment suggestions below when communicating with Grand County Council, Rep. Bishop and your representative. Don't forget to be polite and keep it civil.
SPECIFIC COMMENT SUGGESTIONS:
I oppose Grand County's proposal to close roads and trails. There seems to be consensus among many local stakeholders that BLM's new recreational travel plan is, with a few exceptions, acceptable. Legislation, even a designation such as an NCA, can and should "codify" the current management as a baseline. Additional uses could be authorized via planning and NEPA.
I support the idea of "no net loss" for recreational travel routes. I do not wish to preclude federal land managers from temporarily closing or restricting public access to a designated route for purposes of resource protection or public safety. Provided, however, that if the closure becomes permanent, or the length of the temporary closure impairs established access and use normally provided by the designated route, the land managing agency shall establish alternate access, equivalent to that provided by the designated route.
Grand County's "management objectives" are vague and use undefined terminology. The proposal needs to specifically outline what type of management the County desires. The establishment of the National Landscape Conservation System (NLCS) directs the Secretary of the Interior to manage lands in a manner that protects the values for which the components of the system were designated. This requires that special attention be given to the specific management intent. Specifically: recreational uses, including OHV recreation, must be protected and existing roads and trails preserved.
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Access Alert from the California Four Wheel Drive Association and its partners
NATIONAL CALL TO ACTION
Help save Moab's Trails
Deadline March 31, 2015
From the BlueRibbon Coalition (BRC)
The Grand County Council has identified over 100 miles of road closures in its proposed Public Lands Initiative (PLI) plan to be submitted to Representative Rob Bishop. This proposal is scheduled to be voted on by the end of the month, so it is imperative for you to take action today!
Utah's Grand County, home to Moab's world class OHV trails, has been participating in Congressman Rob Bishop's Public Lands Initiative, a plan to resolve some of Utah's most contentious public lands issues, including Wilderness and OHV use.
BRC, our member clubs and other stakeholders, including counties, have been involved in the process from the beginning: Utah Land Use Legislation: Threats and Opportunities, Key Players
After last November's elections, Grand County's new Council initiated a process to put finishing touches on its recommendations to Congressman Bishop. OHV users, including Ride with Respect (RwR), Moab Friends-For-Wheelin' and the Red Rock 4-Wheelers have been participating. For the most part, the process had been proceeding in a reasonable direction.
Sadly, the situation has taken a turn for the worse.
Less than twenty-four hours prior to a public hearing on the matter, the new Council removed measures that would have secured long-term OHV access. Before OHV users had a chance to analyze and assess the proposal, the County officially finished the draft plan for submission to Bishop that would close over 100 miles of roads and trails!
Grand County's Draft Plan would eliminate the 10 Mile Wash Road and impose seasonal closures on Hey Joe Canyon, Hell Roaring Canyon and the popular Dead Cow Loop.
That's in addition to thousands of acres of new Wilderness in the Book Cliffs and Dolores River - areas outside of the existing Wilderness Study Areas!
Worse, the County plans to form a committee that would recommend road closures in the Dolores (from Beaver Creek to the south side of Westwater) areas. They expect to close at least half of the non-graded roads.
Obviously, local OHV advocates are disappointed. Not only were some of the proposed closures announced at the last meeting before the Draft was finalized, provisions that allow the remaining routes to be "grandfathered" and protected from future closures were not included in the Draft.
Ride with Respect's Clif Koontz described it this way:
Effectively, the proposal says that several high-quality trails will be closed now, and any number of the remaining trails could be closed later. While they don't intend to close the remaining routes now, they provide no protection from future closures.
WE NEED YOUR HELP!
While the plan is a "draft," the county has allowed less than two weeks for comment. It is therefore imperative that ALL OHV users respond to this important proposal by the March 31, 2015 deadline.
We've taken the time to put together some comment suggestions to make it as easy as possible. Just follow "BRC's 3-Step Action Item" below.
Thanks in advance and, as always, please call or email with questions or concerns.
Ric Foster
Public Lands Department Manager
BlueRibbon Coalition
208-237-1008 ext 107
SITUATION:
The Grand County Council has identified over 100 miles of road closures in its proposed Public Lands Initiative (PLI) plan to be submitted to Representative Rob Bishop. This proposal is scheduled to be voted on by the end of the month, so the final draft will actually be worked on prior to March 31st, 2015
WHY THIS IS SO IMPORTANT:
The Council will vote on a final version of its proposal to Representative Bishop on March 31st, so there's not much time. Environmentalists have been stacking the deck with their comments. It is time we respond and show the council that we care and that we are in the majority. Moab is a mecca for many kinds of recreation, although OHV riding and mountain biking are the only ones restricted to designated routes.
WHAT YOU NEED TO DO:
It is imperative that ALL of us who wish to preserve the access we currently have respond to the Grand County Council and to Representative Bishop before March 31, 2015. Send Your Comments Today!
THREE-STEP ACTION ITEM
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO EMAIL YOUR COMMENTS:
NOTE: Please be civil and, if possible, make your comments as personal as you can. If you can add any personal testimony about your experiences enjoying this spectacular area, please take a minute to add that to your email.
STEP 1: Please send comments - Preferably by email: council@grandcountyutah.net
Or if using express service, mail to - Grand County, Attention: Public Lands, 125 E. Center St.,
Moab, UT 84532 - For questions, call 435-259-1342
STEP 2: Contact Representative Rob Bishop's office
Washington office: 202-225-0453
Ogden office (main Utah office): 801-625-0107
john.newhall@mail.house.gov
STEP 3: Contact your Congressional Representative
Find their contact info: Click Here
Craft your own comments or use the comment suggestions below when communicating with Grand County Council, Rep. Bishop and your representative. Don't forget to be polite and keep it civil.
SPECIFIC COMMENT SUGGESTIONS:
I oppose Grand County's proposal to close roads and trails. There seems to be consensus among many local stakeholders that BLM's new recreational travel plan is, with a few exceptions, acceptable. Legislation, even a designation such as an NCA, can and should "codify" the current management as a baseline. Additional uses could be authorized via planning and NEPA.
I support the idea of "no net loss" for recreational travel routes. I do not wish to preclude federal land managers from temporarily closing or restricting public access to a designated route for purposes of resource protection or public safety. Provided, however, that if the closure becomes permanent, or the length of the temporary closure impairs established access and use normally provided by the designated route, the land managing agency shall establish alternate access, equivalent to that provided by the designated route.
Grand County's "management objectives" are vague and use undefined terminology. The proposal needs to specifically outline what type of management the County desires. The establishment of the National Landscape Conservation System (NLCS) directs the Secretary of the Interior to manage lands in a manner that protects the values for which the components of the system were designated. This requires that special attention be given to the specific management intent. Specifically: recreational uses, including OHV recreation, must be protected and existing roads and trails preserved.
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Forward to Friend
Tj upgrades via ford
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I am not very mechanical savvy so I fear replacing the frame is not an option for me.
The Jeep has around 150K miles on it and runs great. I drove it over 400 miles (not knowing about the frame) and it ran smooth.
Does this Jeep have any value at all in its current state?
The album of the pics can be found here (http://ift.tt/1BgI1p3) which includes the pics of the damaged frame.
I am not very mechanical savvy so I fear replacing the frame is not an option for me.
The Jeep has around 150K miles on it and runs great. I drove it over 400 miles (not knowing about the frame) and it ran smooth.
Does this Jeep have any value at all in its current state?
The album of the pics can be found here (http://ift.tt/1BgI1p3) which includes the pics of the damaged frame.
catalytic converter removal
No inspections in The Bahamas.
95 YJ 2.5L
Can I remove my catalytic converter without the removal messing with the computer?
Will this improve the way my engine runs?
Thanks.
95 YJ 2.5L
Can I remove my catalytic converter without the removal messing with the computer?
Will this improve the way my engine runs?
Thanks.
Suspension replacement / lift
I have searched and found some useful information on this forum but still need a little more info specifically on what I would possibly like to do.
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What I'm wondering is if I'm going to be spending $500 on all new shocks, front springs and real leaf springs, should I just buy a complete lift kit (2"-3") for close to the same price. Such as the sky jacket kit that comes with new leafs, front springs and the 4 shocks (3" kit).
I would like the ground clearance, but am not 100% on the lift considering how the ride will change and whatnot.
Anyone have any insight?
What kit would be best for is I went with the lift?
With a 2" or 3" lift. What else would I need to do to do it right, and continue to have the jeep last a while.
Thanks!
I have a 98 cherokee sport 4.0l. The rear leaf springs and all 4 shocks are bad. The front has a good ride high but the rear is sagging.
What I'm wondering is if I'm going to be spending $500 on all new shocks, front springs and real leaf springs, should I just buy a complete lift kit (2"-3") for close to the same price. Such as the sky jacket kit that comes with new leafs, front springs and the 4 shocks (3" kit).
I would like the ground clearance, but am not 100% on the lift considering how the ride will change and whatnot.
Anyone have any insight?
What kit would be best for is I went with the lift?
With a 2" or 3" lift. What else would I need to do to do it right, and continue to have the jeep last a while.
Thanks!
new thread on 5.9 pcm's
Sorry guys, that last one was going nowhere.
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Now my question is - is it worth have the pcm flashed to use regular? I've heard that there's not much loss but the only gain is really cheaper fuel. Is this true? I don't think mine has been changed but I'll have to verify in the am. What insight can you give me?
Thanks
Dave in Muskegon using JeepForum app
That said; hi my name is Dave and I'm the proud owner of a '98 5.9 Grand Cherokee. I'm not new to jeeps as I also have a CJ and XJ.
Now my question is - is it worth have the pcm flashed to use regular? I've heard that there's not much loss but the only gain is really cheaper fuel. Is this true? I don't think mine has been changed but I'll have to verify in the am. What insight can you give me?
Thanks
Dave in Muskegon using JeepForum app
Options for a column shifter steering column???
lundi 23 mars 2015
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I did find this one at Summit, but I don't know if it would fit. Plus it would need to get painted black ....
http://ift.tt/1xtrUsr
... and just to toss it out there ... No, I'd rather not go with a floor shifter.
Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:
I did find this one at Summit, but I don't know if it would fit. Plus it would need to get painted black ....
http://ift.tt/1xtrUsr
... and just to toss it out there ... No, I'd rather not go with a floor shifter.
Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:
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AMC20 Widetrack parts axle 100.00
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Looking to buy an 07... too much rust?
Looking at an 07 unlimited sahara
70k miles
I'm coming from a 99 tj so I've seen frame rot, just curious need opinions
Front passenger
Passenger side(drivers looks the same
Rear
Sent from my Note 4 using my thumb
70k miles
I'm coming from a 99 tj so I've seen frame rot, just curious need opinions
Front passenger
Passenger side(drivers looks the same
Rear
Sent from my Note 4 using my thumb
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