Does anyone have any pictures of there JCG with 2' wheel spacers on it?
tranny problem
Ok need help bad and fast I have a 95 zj the tranny is messed up. Ok so this is what it dose when it sits for a lil while u can put it in to drive it will move for a lil bit but then it stops moving. I have no reverse ether. The tranny winds when u start it up and that's the only time it moves but after idleng 5min the winding stops then it dose not move. You can fill it go in to gear but dose not move. I have changed the governor pressuer sensor and the governor pressure sienold and filter and fluid. It dose not samell burnt it dose not have a brown color to it. Anyone know what to do to fix this. This is my ever day car and need to fix it asap
35's and 4.5" lift - how to trim rear well?
I've got a 4.5" Rubicon Express suspension lift and 35" tires on my 1980 CJ-7. Anybody trimmed the rear well for this configuration? Looking for photos of how much trimming you had to do. Mine rubs pretty bad when I've got a load in the back and I'm considering trimming or blocks to limit travel.
Change your Paper Works: many.types@yahoo.com
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To get the additional information and place the order just call or contact us via email mobile.
-IDs Scan:
-HOLOGRAMS: IDENTICAL
-BARCODES: IDS SCAN
-UV: YES
-Realistic Holograms
-Formatted Bar Codes and Coded Magnetic Strips
-Properly Encoded ID Numbers and Soundex Codes
So if you want to change your location, Identity, Visibility, Travel to where you desire most and more just get directly to us at
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Newbie saying howdy !!
Howdy everyone. New to Jeeps and forum. Have been building hotrods and bikes for 30 years, just picked up my first jeep to build.
Its a 79 CJ7, 258, 3 spd manual, good condition and no rust.
Looking forward to talking with everyone and picking your brains for wisdom and advice.
Have a great weekend
Bill
Its a 79 CJ7, 258, 3 spd manual, good condition and no rust.
Looking forward to talking with everyone and picking your brains for wisdom and advice.
Have a great weekend
Bill
WJ mechanicals compared to the ZJ
I may be looking to switch from my 93 ZJ 4.0L to a WJ 4.0L (not sure about the year yet). Am I right in thinking that the engine, driveline and suspension are pretty similar between them? It won't be like having to learn an entirely new vehicle?
Poly Door Hinge Bushings
Magnitude Engineering's premium line of replacement bushings for Jeep Wrangler door hinges will allow you to replace your deteriorated, worn out, or missing OEM bushings with ease. Whether you are trying eliminate unsightly rust, compensate for years of wear, fix that door that won't latch properly, or prevent potentially damaging leaks due to door misalignment; replacing your bushings is the simplest and most cost effective way to improve the appearance and operation of your door.
Simply remove the old bushings if necessary and insert new ones in their place without the extra time and expense of purchasing new hinges, removing the old ones, prepping and painting, or aligning. As opposed to replacing your hinges, replacing only your bushing minimizes the risk stripping a screw or damaging paint.
Magnitude Engineering's premium replacement bushings are precision machined from high lubricity Delrin® bar. They firmly support loads in both the radial and axial directions due to their full length barrel and flange. Because of the self-lubricating nature of the material, these bushings do not require additional lubrication. Unlike OEM bushings that are roll-formed from flat sheets of laminated material, these solid bushings will not flake apart or delaminate.
Visit the Magnitude Engineering website for more information or to purchase at:
http://ift.tt/1lqSaXy
Simply remove the old bushings if necessary and insert new ones in their place without the extra time and expense of purchasing new hinges, removing the old ones, prepping and painting, or aligning. As opposed to replacing your hinges, replacing only your bushing minimizes the risk stripping a screw or damaging paint.
Magnitude Engineering's premium replacement bushings are precision machined from high lubricity Delrin® bar. They firmly support loads in both the radial and axial directions due to their full length barrel and flange. Because of the self-lubricating nature of the material, these bushings do not require additional lubrication. Unlike OEM bushings that are roll-formed from flat sheets of laminated material, these solid bushings will not flake apart or delaminate.
Visit the Magnitude Engineering website for more information or to purchase at:
http://ift.tt/1lqSaXy
Leaking Jeep. Need Help!
samedi 30 août 2014
I had a puddle of water in my passenger floorboard this morning after a heavy night of rain. It does not smell like coolant and It only puddles up after a heavy rain then dries back up after a day or 2.
Today I hooked my hose up to my roof where it was flowing down the windsheild I left it up there for like 5 min and sat inside the jeep and tried to look for a leak but could not find one. I was thinking of putting some silicone or sealant at the top of the windshield seal, but not sure if that is what is leaking.
Does anyone know of a way to find where the leak is coming from and how to fix this problem.
Today I hooked my hose up to my roof where it was flowing down the windsheild I left it up there for like 5 min and sat inside the jeep and tried to look for a leak but could not find one. I was thinking of putting some silicone or sealant at the top of the windshield seal, but not sure if that is what is leaking.
Does anyone know of a way to find where the leak is coming from and how to fix this problem.
Rear main seal replacement 304 nightmare-suggestions needed!
79 304 th400
Rear main was leaking something awful. So, I get the bright idea to tear it down and replace it. With that being said, I read every thread I could find and started the whole process. Drained oil the day before so it wouldn't be dripping in my face, removed starter, removed oil pan after some grinding on the motor mounts to allow clearance for pan removal. So all is going good so far:thumbsup:. I used wooden dowel to remove old upper seal, came out no problem. Now the fun begins, I try to put new upper seal in. Oiled the lip, made sure I had it turned the right direction, used soap on block side and began TRYING to install:thumbdown:. Did not go well. The first new seal went about halfway in and cut the block side of the seal. Pulled it out, got seal # 2 out of the jeep(having two on hand to start with because I know my luck and I am working on a jeep:D). Seal #2, slides in about 3/4 of the way and cuts block side of seal.:mad::mad:
So after cussing for an hour or two, I decided I need to ask the experts. What the he#% am I doing wrong. Everything I have read says the biggest problem is getting the old one out. I literally was pushing both seals so hard I thought I was going to tear the skin off my fingers. I was pushing against the seal where it enters the block, and pushing the end of the seals around the bottom of the crank to keep from bending it. Needless to say I had to order another one and it won't be in until tomorrow.
Do I need to loosen more of the bearing caps in order to allow more room?
Is there a considerable crank to block width difference in a new seal and the old one? The original I took out seems to be thinner than the new ones from oreillys. I figurered it was just from the wear over the years but now I am really questioning that thought.
Any advice is definately needed at this point because I am at total loss:confused:!
Rear main was leaking something awful. So, I get the bright idea to tear it down and replace it. With that being said, I read every thread I could find and started the whole process. Drained oil the day before so it wouldn't be dripping in my face, removed starter, removed oil pan after some grinding on the motor mounts to allow clearance for pan removal. So all is going good so far:thumbsup:. I used wooden dowel to remove old upper seal, came out no problem. Now the fun begins, I try to put new upper seal in. Oiled the lip, made sure I had it turned the right direction, used soap on block side and began TRYING to install:thumbdown:. Did not go well. The first new seal went about halfway in and cut the block side of the seal. Pulled it out, got seal # 2 out of the jeep(having two on hand to start with because I know my luck and I am working on a jeep:D). Seal #2, slides in about 3/4 of the way and cuts block side of seal.:mad::mad:
So after cussing for an hour or two, I decided I need to ask the experts. What the he#% am I doing wrong. Everything I have read says the biggest problem is getting the old one out. I literally was pushing both seals so hard I thought I was going to tear the skin off my fingers. I was pushing against the seal where it enters the block, and pushing the end of the seals around the bottom of the crank to keep from bending it. Needless to say I had to order another one and it won't be in until tomorrow.
Do I need to loosen more of the bearing caps in order to allow more room?
Is there a considerable crank to block width difference in a new seal and the old one? The original I took out seems to be thinner than the new ones from oreillys. I figurered it was just from the wear over the years but now I am really questioning that thought.
Any advice is definately needed at this point because I am at total loss:confused:!
Help with wheel size
Hey all...
I am looking to give my CJ a different stance, and I have found exactly what I am looking for but am not sure of what exactly this CJ is running.
I can see the American Racing wheels and the 35" toyo tires, but don't
know the backspacing or tire specs.
The owner is/was a former jeepforum member.
http://ift.tt/VWKgzL
He hasn't been active since 2011.
Can anyone help me out with the specs?
I have a 79 so I have narrow track axles. His CJ was a 83 so it had the wide track axles. Anyone know what wheels/tires/backspacing I need to run to have this look?
http://ift.tt/VWKiHU
Thanks everyone! :cheers2:
I am looking to give my CJ a different stance, and I have found exactly what I am looking for but am not sure of what exactly this CJ is running.
I can see the American Racing wheels and the 35" toyo tires, but don't
know the backspacing or tire specs.
The owner is/was a former jeepforum member.
http://ift.tt/VWKgzL
He hasn't been active since 2011.
Can anyone help me out with the specs?
I have a 79 so I have narrow track axles. His CJ was a 83 so it had the wide track axles. Anyone know what wheels/tires/backspacing I need to run to have this look?
http://ift.tt/VWKiHU
Thanks everyone! :cheers2:
Rear axle geometry???
Hi all! I have recently bought a dana 60-2 (narrowed) to replace the AMC 20 in my 82 CJ7 on 37's. I bought the jeep with the 37's but the PO decided to not worry about the stock 2:73's. Not to mention it has a T5. The dana 60 was originally set up for a spring over but I have new perches to bring it back to spring under. What are things to consider as I'm mocking up the new perches to weld on?? Geometry of drive shaft? Anything else I'm missing? I know how important front drivel shaft geometry (which I need to tackle next) just not sure about rear. Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
Warning to all
Your use of site features or providing technically accurate information in this forum may result in you being banned.
Sorry to those of you who have actual learned and helped others here.
Unfourently the moderation feels the need promate their own agends and not those of the community.
This has been a fair warning to tread lightly as certain moderators are irrational individuals.
Sorry to those of you who have actual learned and helped others here.
Unfourently the moderation feels the need promate their own agends and not those of the community.
This has been a fair warning to tread lightly as certain moderators are irrational individuals.
My wish list for 2015 Grand Cherokee.
I have driven my 2014 JGC diesel for 3,000 miles and have come up with a wish list of changes I would like to see.
1. Wish the air suspension didn't take 10 seconds to deflate. Wish it was faster.
2. Wish the seat wasn't so hard. Test driving a short distance didn't bother me but longer distances do.
3. Wish the guages looked classier. I really like the blue lighting at night but the white guages themselves along with the tacky orange needles look cheap.
4. Wish I wasn't reading about so many check engine light codes on the ecodeisel. Especially for the def system. Makes me nervous about a long trip.
5. Wish there was a smoother throttle response on initial take off. Little power on take off and 1 second later zoom zoom.
6. Wish the interior lights were led and not incandescent.
7. Wish it didn't have so much wind noise. Good on a calm day but in a wind more wind noise than my 2012 Ford F150 with trailer towing mirrors.
That's my wish list. Bottom line is I am enjoying my GC very much. Never hurts to wish!!!
1. Wish the air suspension didn't take 10 seconds to deflate. Wish it was faster.
2. Wish the seat wasn't so hard. Test driving a short distance didn't bother me but longer distances do.
3. Wish the guages looked classier. I really like the blue lighting at night but the white guages themselves along with the tacky orange needles look cheap.
4. Wish I wasn't reading about so many check engine light codes on the ecodeisel. Especially for the def system. Makes me nervous about a long trip.
5. Wish there was a smoother throttle response on initial take off. Little power on take off and 1 second later zoom zoom.
6. Wish the interior lights were led and not incandescent.
7. Wish it didn't have so much wind noise. Good on a calm day but in a wind more wind noise than my 2012 Ford F150 with trailer towing mirrors.
That's my wish list. Bottom line is I am enjoying my GC very much. Never hurts to wish!!!
All-Weather Floor Mats Set of 4
Set of 4 deep grove all weather floor mats in tan color. Will fit numerous applications. I had these in my old TJ. Normal used condition, but still in good shape. Pick them up in Altoona, PA or will ship on your dime.
Stainless Steel Door Hinge Pins
vendredi 29 août 2014
Magnitude Engineering's premium line of stainless steel replacement pins for Jeep Wrangler door hinges will allow you to replace your corroded, deteriorated, broken, or worn out pins with ease. Whether you are trying eliminate unsightly rust, compensate for years of wear, fix that door that won't latch properly, or prevent potentially damaging leaks due to door misalignment; replacing your pins is a simple and cost effective way to improve the appearance and operation of your door.
Simply remove the old pins and insert new ones in their place without the extra time, expense, and risk of replacing your hinges. As opposed to replacing your hinges, replacing only your pins minimizes the risk stripping a screw, exposing unpainted steel, or damaging paint on your door that could cause it to rust.
Magnitude Engineering's premium replacement pins are precision machined from solid stainless steel bar. Unlike OEM or other replacement pins that are cold formed from rust susceptible mild steel and coated with a thin layer of plating that can be scratched or wear away over time, these solid stainless steel pins will not flake or rust.
Visit the Magnitude Engineering website for more information or to purchase at:
http://ift.tt/1lqSaXy
Simply remove the old pins and insert new ones in their place without the extra time, expense, and risk of replacing your hinges. As opposed to replacing your hinges, replacing only your pins minimizes the risk stripping a screw, exposing unpainted steel, or damaging paint on your door that could cause it to rust.
Magnitude Engineering's premium replacement pins are precision machined from solid stainless steel bar. Unlike OEM or other replacement pins that are cold formed from rust susceptible mild steel and coated with a thin layer of plating that can be scratched or wear away over time, these solid stainless steel pins will not flake or rust.
Visit the Magnitude Engineering website for more information or to purchase at:
http://ift.tt/1lqSaXy
lift kit question
So yesterday me and my dad were talking about lift kits and I mentioned a 4.5 to 4 in lift and he was saying that I had to change out my tranny and a lot more I know I would have to upgrade my axle but what else would I have to change that's not included in a standard kit
White JKU with black rims
Trying to convince the wife that black rims are the best looking for our all white JKU.
Here is how she sits now...
Let's see your white JKU with black rims
Here is how she sits now...
Let's see your white JKU with black rims
Just pulled trans skid off, concerneds, please help
Hey guys,
I'm at the garage getting ready to pull out the cat converter. Found this and am concerned:
This is the NV241.
I have some ugly noises when the clutch is out. Thought it was a throwout bearing but am wondering if this is realted? The oil looks fresh to me. I think I noticed it a few months ago also but blew it off.
Should I be worried??
I'm at the garage getting ready to pull out the cat converter. Found this and am concerned:
This is the NV241.
I have some ugly noises when the clutch is out. Thought it was a throwout bearing but am wondering if this is realted? The oil looks fresh to me. I think I noticed it a few months ago also but blew it off.
Should I be worried??
Crank but no start troubleshooting help
Hi Guys,
I need some help troubleshooting here. I have an 89 2.5 yj that cranks, but doesn't start. When i turn the key, the fuel pump kicks on and is sending fuel to the rail and cranks, but doesn't actually start. It'll crank all day if i let it.
This tells me its not a fuel problem because i have fuel. Not an ecm problem because the fuel pump kicks on. Is this correct?
I have brand new spark plugs. I can spray starting fluid in the air box and it sounds like its going to start for 1/2 second, but then goes back to just cranking.
Any thoughts on what might be going on or what to check next?
**EDIT**
I've also checked fuses under the dash-- they all look good.
Thanks,
Jeremy
I need some help troubleshooting here. I have an 89 2.5 yj that cranks, but doesn't start. When i turn the key, the fuel pump kicks on and is sending fuel to the rail and cranks, but doesn't actually start. It'll crank all day if i let it.
This tells me its not a fuel problem because i have fuel. Not an ecm problem because the fuel pump kicks on. Is this correct?
I have brand new spark plugs. I can spray starting fluid in the air box and it sounds like its going to start for 1/2 second, but then goes back to just cranking.
Any thoughts on what might be going on or what to check next?
**EDIT**
I've also checked fuses under the dash-- they all look good.
Thanks,
Jeremy
Charcoal Canister Edeldbrock 1406 Vacuum Line Routing
I am adding back the Charcoal canister that a PO took off. I understand the operation and each of the ports on the canister. The challenge I have is where the carburetor bowl vent hooks up from the charcoal canister. Where on my Edelbrock 1406 will I find this spot.
Thanks
Thanks
newbie jeep build
ok so im new here even though ive been lurking the threads for information since my purchace in late april ill post my progress and some pics of my build
Super squeaky new rear brakes
This thread is to share as I'm working through it now. Input appreciated, but I think I have it under control.
Okay, I put new rear brakes on my 84 CJ7, which is not a DD. Stock brakes. Hardware kit, new wheel cylinders and shoes. I had the drums reground.
They squeak really, really bad. Think of the worst bus ever. Initially, it came from the RR. I pulled it, did the sandpaper smoothing with 80 grit and noticed several high/low spots due to seating versus unseated spots. Drove again, still really obnoxious, repeat speedy break in with sandpaper.
So then I took it to work, 44 miles round trip, thinking it would seat them once and for all. No good, it got louder and now noise was coming from both and even more obnoxious.
Pulled both sides apart today and found the LR to have that chatter look as there were about 20 small high/low spot along one of the front shoe. There's the really obnoxious noise as it was a harmonic pattern. The rear on that side looked perfect, but I scuffed it anyway as I did all the others. The RR shoes both had issues, but with only 3 hi/low spots each. More 80 grit.
Jeep is now sitting in the driveway awaiting another round of road testing.
I ordered new drums. But now that I've almost got the shoes to fit, I suspect it'd start this process all over again with proper drums at smaller size with the nearly fitted oversized shoes. So I'm cancelling that order and just going to work this out a few more sanding rounds as needed. I will do a drive tomorrow and evaluate. If they are still squeaky, I'll sand again and back off the starwheel a tick or two as the last drive had them squeaking around the corners.
I was going to back off the starwheel today, but forgot as I was teaching my 6 y/o and put the wheels back on as a training session. I drove my FR-S to work instead just to avoid the aggravation. Tomorrow and the weekend will tell, we'll see.
Hindsight what it is, I should have just bought the new drums. Turning them cost me 80% of one drum. My time at my rate has put me behind. But it's all good and I just need to get my son more involved as he will be a wrench head whether he likes it or not. He will know how to fix things, the jeep is a good conduit for that. And him learning how to cuss properly for that matter.
If you're still with me in today's two sentence attention span, please share any tips or tricks that have made this process smoother if you've had this experience.
Reviewing this, it's apparent new shoes and drums wear from the shoe centers out to the edges. As these, due to the regrinding, are wearing in from the edges into the centers due to mismatched diameters. Never had this issue until now and it's a first. I've had the jeep for 20 years now. About 2-3 sets of brakes have been put on it with no issues.
jeepmor
Okay, I put new rear brakes on my 84 CJ7, which is not a DD. Stock brakes. Hardware kit, new wheel cylinders and shoes. I had the drums reground.
They squeak really, really bad. Think of the worst bus ever. Initially, it came from the RR. I pulled it, did the sandpaper smoothing with 80 grit and noticed several high/low spots due to seating versus unseated spots. Drove again, still really obnoxious, repeat speedy break in with sandpaper.
So then I took it to work, 44 miles round trip, thinking it would seat them once and for all. No good, it got louder and now noise was coming from both and even more obnoxious.
Pulled both sides apart today and found the LR to have that chatter look as there were about 20 small high/low spot along one of the front shoe. There's the really obnoxious noise as it was a harmonic pattern. The rear on that side looked perfect, but I scuffed it anyway as I did all the others. The RR shoes both had issues, but with only 3 hi/low spots each. More 80 grit.
Jeep is now sitting in the driveway awaiting another round of road testing.
I ordered new drums. But now that I've almost got the shoes to fit, I suspect it'd start this process all over again with proper drums at smaller size with the nearly fitted oversized shoes. So I'm cancelling that order and just going to work this out a few more sanding rounds as needed. I will do a drive tomorrow and evaluate. If they are still squeaky, I'll sand again and back off the starwheel a tick or two as the last drive had them squeaking around the corners.
I was going to back off the starwheel today, but forgot as I was teaching my 6 y/o and put the wheels back on as a training session. I drove my FR-S to work instead just to avoid the aggravation. Tomorrow and the weekend will tell, we'll see.
Hindsight what it is, I should have just bought the new drums. Turning them cost me 80% of one drum. My time at my rate has put me behind. But it's all good and I just need to get my son more involved as he will be a wrench head whether he likes it or not. He will know how to fix things, the jeep is a good conduit for that. And him learning how to cuss properly for that matter.
If you're still with me in today's two sentence attention span, please share any tips or tricks that have made this process smoother if you've had this experience.
Reviewing this, it's apparent new shoes and drums wear from the shoe centers out to the edges. As these, due to the regrinding, are wearing in from the edges into the centers due to mismatched diameters. Never had this issue until now and it's a first. I've had the jeep for 20 years now. About 2-3 sets of brakes have been put on it with no issues.
jeepmor
Lifted/ Blacked out 2001 Jeep grand cherokee limited
2001 Grand Cherokee Limited 4X4
V8 4.7L Powertech engine (estimated 338 HP with modifications)
Quadra-Drive NV247 transfer case
Lifted 5.5" (Rock Krawler brand Rock crawling lift)
35" Falken tires(95% tread, syped) w/ Aftermarket Rims of unknown brand
K and N cold air intake
1.5" wheel spacers
Flowmaster exhaust w/ 4" flat black exhaust tip
Spyder brand all black grille
Spyder brand dual halo projector headlights
Spyder brand single halo projector fog lights
LED tail lights
8000K HID headlights (low beam, high beam, fog lamp)
Blue and white LED strips inside of grille (makes the grille glow)
Rockford Subwoofer and Amplifier combo w/ Punch level control
Pioneer stereo with USB port
Tow hitch
ATV permit good through 2016
Tinted windows
Leather seats
A/C
Heated seats (do NOT work)
Cruise control
Moon roof
Recently repaired:
Clock spring (fixed air bag, horn and cruise control)
Driver door check strap
Thermostat and housing
Tie rod ends
rear lift gate, lift glass, and hood struts
Battery ports replaced (old ones disentegrated from old age)
coin tray returner
blinker relay
turn signal switch
heater control module
Instrument Cluster (old one had cluster fault, new one shows different miles (147k when only has 124k)
Door panel clips
Speedometer realigned, now only 5 mph off at highway speeds instead of 25 mph off
text anytime or message me.
541-760-0521
V8 4.7L Powertech engine (estimated 338 HP with modifications)
Quadra-Drive NV247 transfer case
Lifted 5.5" (Rock Krawler brand Rock crawling lift)
35" Falken tires(95% tread, syped) w/ Aftermarket Rims of unknown brand
K and N cold air intake
1.5" wheel spacers
Flowmaster exhaust w/ 4" flat black exhaust tip
Spyder brand all black grille
Spyder brand dual halo projector headlights
Spyder brand single halo projector fog lights
LED tail lights
8000K HID headlights (low beam, high beam, fog lamp)
Blue and white LED strips inside of grille (makes the grille glow)
Rockford Subwoofer and Amplifier combo w/ Punch level control
Pioneer stereo with USB port
Tow hitch
ATV permit good through 2016
Tinted windows
Leather seats
A/C
Heated seats (do NOT work)
Cruise control
Moon roof
Recently repaired:
Clock spring (fixed air bag, horn and cruise control)
Driver door check strap
Thermostat and housing
Tie rod ends
rear lift gate, lift glass, and hood struts
Battery ports replaced (old ones disentegrated from old age)
coin tray returner
blinker relay
turn signal switch
heater control module
Instrument Cluster (old one had cluster fault, new one shows different miles (147k when only has 124k)
Door panel clips
Speedometer realigned, now only 5 mph off at highway speeds instead of 25 mph off
text anytime or message me.
541-760-0521
Have you had a front caliper go bad?
jeudi 28 août 2014
Bad as in stuck out.
I have had 3. Granted my Jeep is 21 years old and I did buy it new.
I do not remember which side was bad the other two times but this time it is the passenger side.
Please post which side and take the poll.
I have had 3. Granted my Jeep is 21 years old and I did buy it new.
I do not remember which side was bad the other two times but this time it is the passenger side.
Please post which side and take the poll.
If building a stroker, what else is needed?
I have been looking into 4.6L/4.7L strokers and have had a hard time with stuff OTHER than the engine internals. Do you use the stock 4.0 exhaust manifolds, cat, and tail pipes? Does the throttle body need to be changed? What grade of fuel is needed? Thanks.
Need part # 2 in Photo
I need this piece to attach the front bumper facia. When I had my radiator replaced this was evidently considered optional. If any of you have switched bumpers and have this for a '94 Grand Cherokee I would love to have it.
Thanks,
T
Thanks,
T
Trip to the Yucatan this winter
leaving Virginia cold for a couple of months this winter to head south to Mexico, taking my YJ and dog with me. I plan to cross at the Los Indios crossing near Brownsville and then head south camping along the way. Anyone done that trip and got some recommendations for camping? I have no time schedule other than to arrive by Feb. 1 just north of the Belize border near Majahual (Costa Maya). I can take as long as I want driving down and returning, so any local knowledge or places to see/avoid along the trip would be helpful. Thanks
B
B
WTB: BDS 3 inch front TJ springs
Title says it all I need 3 inch front BDS spring for my 05 TJ preferably with low miles on them... Would even trade my 2 inch springs with around 5k miles on them
Is the wheel information stamped into wheel?
I have tried finding this information by using the forum's Google Custon Search but haven't had any luck.
I just purchased my first Jeep and I want to get a matching wheel for the spare and I found a used wheel that appears to be the same as the wheels on my '93 YJ, but the seller is not sure what the size and bolt pattern is on his used rim, before I pull a wheel off of my YJ, I thought that I would ask my question here, is the size and bolt pattern on Jeep factory wheels stamped into the wheel somewhere, let's say on the back side, so I can tell him where to look?
Attached is a picture of the used wheel on the left and my wheel on the right. Does anybody know what these wheels are called?
I just purchased my first Jeep and I want to get a matching wheel for the spare and I found a used wheel that appears to be the same as the wheels on my '93 YJ, but the seller is not sure what the size and bolt pattern is on his used rim, before I pull a wheel off of my YJ, I thought that I would ask my question here, is the size and bolt pattern on Jeep factory wheels stamped into the wheel somewhere, let's say on the back side, so I can tell him where to look?
Attached is a picture of the used wheel on the left and my wheel on the right. Does anybody know what these wheels are called?
Need a 258
Hey guys, blew a valve, so I'm looking for a 258 to replace. All help is appreciated, thanks.
Justin
210-268-2979
Justin
210-268-2979
New guy with dealership problems
Hi guys,
I have a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee that is having problems with the transmission kicking (feels like the car is rear-ended) in between shifting gears from 1st to 2nd. The dealership is saying that they've replicated the issue, but that it's functioning as designed and is caused by a "sensor that puts the car in the correct gear". Their statement is that this occurs with all 2011 - 2014 vehicles and that it's even worse in the newer years with the 8 speed transmission. I can't imagine Jeep/Chrysler wants their service folks throwing out that as a sales pitch. :mad:
I previously took the car in for this same issue about 3 months ago and they did a software update based on a bulletin for this exact issue. Now they're saying that it's working as designed. What is the best way to contact Jeep/Chrysler about this issue if the dealership isn't resolving the problem?
I have a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee that is having problems with the transmission kicking (feels like the car is rear-ended) in between shifting gears from 1st to 2nd. The dealership is saying that they've replicated the issue, but that it's functioning as designed and is caused by a "sensor that puts the car in the correct gear". Their statement is that this occurs with all 2011 - 2014 vehicles and that it's even worse in the newer years with the 8 speed transmission. I can't imagine Jeep/Chrysler wants their service folks throwing out that as a sales pitch. :mad:
I previously took the car in for this same issue about 3 months ago and they did a software update based on a bulletin for this exact issue. Now they're saying that it's working as designed. What is the best way to contact Jeep/Chrysler about this issue if the dealership isn't resolving the problem?
Retrofit AC kit questions for 98 TJ
Hi guys, please forgive me if this has been asked before and I wasn't able to find it, but I have a couple questions regarding the retrofit AC kit from Jeep Air. First, my specs - it's a 4 cyl 2.5l with slider controls, and my blower motor went out as well, so I have 2 main questions.
1. I know the kit from Jeep Air says that you can't use knob with slider, and slider with knob, but what if I buy a new control head as well? Could I then get the 3 knob kit for my 98? Or is there something else that makes that not jive?
2. From what I can tell, there isn't a new blower motor in the kit (damn, that would have been convenient!), so I'd need to replace that as well, which I expected. Hell, that's the cheap part! But I was wondering if there's anything special about the blower motor I need to know before buying one, cuz I saw there were at least 4 kinds, and I wasn't sure if it made a difference or not which one I get.
Thanks for your help!
:thankyou:
1. I know the kit from Jeep Air says that you can't use knob with slider, and slider with knob, but what if I buy a new control head as well? Could I then get the 3 knob kit for my 98? Or is there something else that makes that not jive?
2. From what I can tell, there isn't a new blower motor in the kit (damn, that would have been convenient!), so I'd need to replace that as well, which I expected. Hell, that's the cheap part! But I was wondering if there's anything special about the blower motor I need to know before buying one, cuz I saw there were at least 4 kinds, and I wasn't sure if it made a difference or not which one I get.
Thanks for your help!
:thankyou:
Retrofit AC kit questions for 98 TJ
mercredi 27 août 2014
Hi guys, please forgive me if this has been asked before and I wasn't able to find it, but I have a couple questions regarding the retrofit AC kit from Jeep Air. First, my specs - it's a 4 cyl 2.5l with slider controls, and my blower motor went out as well, so I have 2 main questions.
1. I know the kit from Jeep Air says that you can't use knob with slider, and slider with knob, but what if I buy a new control head as well? Could I then get the 3 knob kit for my 98? Or is there something else that makes that not jive?
2. From what I can tell, there isn't a new blower motor in the kit (damn, that would have been convenient!), so I'd need to replace that as well, which I expected. Hell, that's the cheap part! But I was wondering if there's anything special about the blower motor I need to know before buying one, cuz I saw there were at least 4 kinds, and I wasn't sure if it made a difference or not which one I get.
Thanks for your help!
:thankyou:
1. I know the kit from Jeep Air says that you can't use knob with slider, and slider with knob, but what if I buy a new control head as well? Could I then get the 3 knob kit for my 98? Or is there something else that makes that not jive?
2. From what I can tell, there isn't a new blower motor in the kit (damn, that would have been convenient!), so I'd need to replace that as well, which I expected. Hell, that's the cheap part! But I was wondering if there's anything special about the blower motor I need to know before buying one, cuz I saw there were at least 4 kinds, and I wasn't sure if it made a difference or not which one I get.
Thanks for your help!
:thankyou:
16 inch aftermarket rims
Looking for anyone who has put on aftermarket 16 inch rims on a stock suspension. Any suggestions
Is this too risky? Help please
Hey guys, this is my first of many posts. Im 17, and im about to buy my first car. I was originally thinking about getting an old yj, but decided it wouldn't be the most practical daily driver for me. The plan was to get an xj in the 99-01 year range, but I ran across this limited grand cherokee.
http://ift.tt/1wDObCt
If you all could give me your opinions on this car/price I would appreciate. To be honest I look the body style of XJ's so much more but there are so many nice luxurious features in this car that its hard to resist. That leads me to my main question. Is buying a wj like this one with 150k plus miles on it an unwise decision? I know cherokee i6s last forever but what about this 4.7l v8? I appreciate all the helps friends :)
http://ift.tt/1wDObCt
If you all could give me your opinions on this car/price I would appreciate. To be honest I look the body style of XJ's so much more but there are so many nice luxurious features in this car that its hard to resist. That leads me to my main question. Is buying a wj like this one with 150k plus miles on it an unwise decision? I know cherokee i6s last forever but what about this 4.7l v8? I appreciate all the helps friends :)
1988 XJ 2dr 4x4 67,xxx miles. Worth it?
New member but long time forum stalker.
Looking at a 1988 Jeep Cherokee 2 door (not limited) 4x4.
Has 67,000 original miles. Id be the second owner.
Interior is in showroom condition. Outside has clearcoat coming off.
Absolutely zero rust and it drives and rides like a dream,
Asking price was $4000 but he'll go down to $3300.
Worth it?
Looking at a 1988 Jeep Cherokee 2 door (not limited) 4x4.
Has 67,000 original miles. Id be the second owner.
Interior is in showroom condition. Outside has clearcoat coming off.
Absolutely zero rust and it drives and rides like a dream,
Asking price was $4000 but he'll go down to $3300.
Worth it?
Question about HID projector headlights
Greetings,
I've been a long time lurker, and first time poster. I have an 04 WJ Overland, and I've been doing a lot of research in preparation of upgrading my stock headlights (they don't hold aim well, and stuck aimed too low).
I've decided that I'd like to go the HID route (and yes, my goal is to set it up correctly with proper projectors so that I don't blind others). The plan is to go with some 35W 9006 4300k (or 5000k?) HIDs.
I'm not really interested in going the retrofit route, and don't wish to make this a huge project. Therefore, I have been looking at aftermarket headlights. One thing I am not clear on (after rediculous amounts of reading) is how to figure out what headlights are using halogen projectors vs. HID projectors.
I am interested in getting a set of black CCFL halos, as they seem the least obnoxious looking to me from available aftermarket options:
http://ift.tt/1quB1CI
Is it correct (and non-******baggish) to use HIDs with those projectors? My concern is that I think these might be using halogen projectors, when I'd like to utilize HID projectors for the low beams. Can anyone confirm?
Are there any aftermarket headlight options for our rigs that come with HID projectors for the low beams? I plan to run regular halogens in the high beams (which are 9005.. would HIRs work there, too?)
Thank you in advance. These seem to be answers I haven't been able to find a reliable answer to after hours of reading, and therefore I wish to defer to your collective expertise.
I've been a long time lurker, and first time poster. I have an 04 WJ Overland, and I've been doing a lot of research in preparation of upgrading my stock headlights (they don't hold aim well, and stuck aimed too low).
I've decided that I'd like to go the HID route (and yes, my goal is to set it up correctly with proper projectors so that I don't blind others). The plan is to go with some 35W 9006 4300k (or 5000k?) HIDs.
I'm not really interested in going the retrofit route, and don't wish to make this a huge project. Therefore, I have been looking at aftermarket headlights. One thing I am not clear on (after rediculous amounts of reading) is how to figure out what headlights are using halogen projectors vs. HID projectors.
I am interested in getting a set of black CCFL halos, as they seem the least obnoxious looking to me from available aftermarket options:
http://ift.tt/1quB1CI
Is it correct (and non-******baggish) to use HIDs with those projectors? My concern is that I think these might be using halogen projectors, when I'd like to utilize HID projectors for the low beams. Can anyone confirm?
Are there any aftermarket headlight options for our rigs that come with HID projectors for the low beams? I plan to run regular halogens in the high beams (which are 9005.. would HIRs work there, too?)
Thank you in advance. These seem to be answers I haven't been able to find a reliable answer to after hours of reading, and therefore I wish to defer to your collective expertise.
Jeep Test Drive-Not Impressed Help!
mardi 26 août 2014
Hey guys, I just test drove a new 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited today. When I took it for a drive, I didn't really enjoy it since the SUV didn't seem to be steady enough. I mean, I was driving at around 50 mph, but it seemed to be pulling to either sides of the road, sort of like a wavy ride. I don't understand the reason behind this, I think its due to the aerodynamics due to the shape of the jeep. I currently own a pathfinder and I have never come across this problem when driving on the road.
Any advises greatly appreciated.
Any advises greatly appreciated.
WTB Currie CE-9120R Johnny Joint Rear Track Bar for Jeep TJ
Hello, just thought I would give the WTB section a try before I buy a new one. Someone here might have bought one and later gone with a custom 4 link. So if you got one sitting in your shop, let me know. :cheers2:
Looking for a, Currie CE-9120R Johnny Joint Rear Track Bar for Jeep TJ.
Looking for a, Currie CE-9120R Johnny Joint Rear Track Bar for Jeep TJ.
Engine Light
Just changed out fan blower motor, control panel, resister and relay. Now engine light is on. Any suggestions?
in cab winch control wire size question
Hello I'm about to start wiring up a in cab control.Is number 12 wire big enough to handle the load and do people put relays in for this mod. I looked at a lot of diagrams and didn't find much about adding relays. Thank you
Floats like a butterfly...
For background, I bought this XJ back in May. Previous owner had installed a Rough Country 3" lift he bought off RC's ebay store. Front springs, full packs in the rear, and shocks.
These are the shocks:
I actually thought they were stock shocks but the PO re-verified for me that he had bought them.
Anyway....
When I go around corners, the rear end feels like it floats. Almost like the inside rear tire is wanting to lose contact with the road. There is an on-ramp I hit sometimes that has some bad pavement in turn and I think that every time I hit it the rear does actually bounce over about 6".
All this is at like 30MPH. Now, I've never had a lifted anything but this is my third XJ and it's just not "right" you know?
So I guess my first question is "is this normal/expected behavior" and if it's not, what should I do to fix it?
These are the shocks:
I actually thought they were stock shocks but the PO re-verified for me that he had bought them.
Anyway....
When I go around corners, the rear end feels like it floats. Almost like the inside rear tire is wanting to lose contact with the road. There is an on-ramp I hit sometimes that has some bad pavement in turn and I think that every time I hit it the rear does actually bounce over about 6".
All this is at like 30MPH. Now, I've never had a lifted anything but this is my third XJ and it's just not "right" you know?
So I guess my first question is "is this normal/expected behavior" and if it's not, what should I do to fix it?
4 banger Gas milage?
I Have a 1993 YJ 2.5 liter with only 120,000 miles on it. It's mostly stock aside from an add a leaf suspension, and 31" BFG A/T KO. The other day I calculated the MPG it was getting from it's 13 gallon tank & it came out to be at most 11.7 Mpg. Now I understand that it's a jeep and I'm not looking to have outstanding gas mileage, I just don't understand how my milage could be low while there are other YJ's with more mods and bigger engines getting better than mine. I've recently replaced the fuel regulator , fuel filter, had an oil change, and I also have 19lb injectors with 4 jets, from a Lincoln continental. It's mainly used to get to school and work, and It doesn't see to much off-road action atm, so most of the miles are highway. I try and shift low at around 3000-3500rpm, but I can never start from 2nd gear or it bogs out.
Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or things that might be worth taking a look at? All advice is appreciated, thank you!
Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or things that might be worth taking a look at? All advice is appreciated, thank you!
No Spare Tire Cargo Options
lundi 25 août 2014
So I usually run my TJ with the Spare in the rear to create better weight distribution and departure angles. I can still fit my large toolbox and some odds and ends in it but we do a lot of camping wheeling trips here so I want to find a cargo option for where the spare would be. Ive seen cargo racks but most are for aftermarket tire carrier bumpers. Are there any for stock setups? The only other thing was to get a roof rack but there is a lot of low hanging trees on these trails so thats ALMOST out of the question, but not entirely.
Engine repair or replace?
I got a 99 limited with a 4.7. The engine spun a rod bearing and so I am looking at my options. The current engine was supposed to have been rebuilt recently and the cylinders show fairly fresh cross hatching.
Rebuilt engines seem to vary widely in price and there is nothing available locally so I would have to pay shipping and core etc. Frankly I am not real interested in dealing with the Core hassle so I will likely just pay the extra fee and skip the hassle.
other option is used engine, less hassle but most seem to be high miles and you can't be sure that you will get very far with a high mile engine.
or I can try to rebuild the damaged engine I have which will likely require at least one new rod and maybe a crankshaft plus I have to do all bearings etc because of the metal that has gone through the engine.
recommendations?
Rebuilt engines seem to vary widely in price and there is nothing available locally so I would have to pay shipping and core etc. Frankly I am not real interested in dealing with the Core hassle so I will likely just pay the extra fee and skip the hassle.
other option is used engine, less hassle but most seem to be high miles and you can't be sure that you will get very far with a high mile engine.
or I can try to rebuild the damaged engine I have which will likely require at least one new rod and maybe a crankshaft plus I have to do all bearings etc because of the metal that has gone through the engine.
recommendations?
Need Help finding thread
hi everyone,
my 1995 jeep wrangler 4.0L takes a long time (about 10 mins or so) before the CEL comes on or the fuel pump starts priming. I know there is a thread on this forum about what the problems may be, but i can not find it. I've used the search feature and googled it, but i cannot find the thread. any help with finding the thread would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
my 1995 jeep wrangler 4.0L takes a long time (about 10 mins or so) before the CEL comes on or the fuel pump starts priming. I know there is a thread on this forum about what the problems may be, but i can not find it. I've used the search feature and googled it, but i cannot find the thread. any help with finding the thread would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
304 with Howell TBI Overheating and shutting off
During the Summer I have a hard time keeping my CJ5 running when I sit still for more than 10 minutes at idle. I think I have the 160 degree thermostat because that's where it stays when I am running. If I'm sitting in traffic at idle it will creep up to 180 and eventually shut off. I'm assuming that the TBI system shows an increase in normal operating temp. Am I right in this assumption? I can almost call when it is going to happen. I'm taking the steps to cool better sitting still with an OEM fan and either a shroud or a pusher fan.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Crossmember conundrum...
I hv a 95 yj that I bought back in December.I'm ready to start the tear down for a complete reconstruction(V8,S/L,B/L,body armor,bumpers,winch,the works).My problem is the round crossmember,in the front,is bent on the drivers side.I have to replace it to recenter the grill;it's pushed to the right about 3/8".I have the factory demensions to put things back where they're supposed to be.Has anyone else had to do this and how did you go about it?:confused:
2002 Jeep Wrangler TJ - Cloaked and Modded
Copy of my Craigslist Ad:
I'm posting for sale a 2002 TJ Wrangler which is in amazing shape, has a bunch of excellent features, and has been very loved by it's current owner. Please do not low ball. We will accept offers, but please be reasonable. It has many new parts and does excellent in all weather.
2002 Jeep Wrangler TJ
4.0 Liter - Inline 6 cylinder
90,000 miles
Brand new Black Bestop Soft Top - the thickest one they offer to handle the cold weather
Full Steel Doors
35" General Grabber Red Letter Mud Tires
Dana 44 Rearend - 4.10 gears
High Pinion Dana 30 Front axle - 4.10 gears
Currie Currectlync Steering Setup
6 inch Rock Krawler Long Arm Lift
Detroit Electric Full Lockers Front and Rear
Iron Rock Offroad front trackbar
Iron Rock Offroad rear trackbar
Barely used Warn 9000 lb Winch + remote
Custom heavy duty front bumper
Steering box skid
D-rings
CB Antenna
PIAA Offroad lights
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Toys By Troy (or similiar) Bolt-In Rollcage addon
Full Flowmaster Exhaust
Brand new:
MetalCloak front Overline Fenders
MetalCloak front 3" Fender Flares
MetalCloak rear 3" Fender Flares
MetalCloak Rock Rails
Metalcloak Wolverine hood decal
The only bad: It needs a windshield pretty bad, but we don't feel like replacing just to sell it. It also has the normal slow Jeep leaks underneath. This Jeep will take you wherever you want to go whenever you want to go there. Please get ahold of me during decent hours. Will have to schedule to view it. I prefer texts if you're going to ask easy questions.
515-321-0176
I'm posting for sale a 2002 TJ Wrangler which is in amazing shape, has a bunch of excellent features, and has been very loved by it's current owner. Please do not low ball. We will accept offers, but please be reasonable. It has many new parts and does excellent in all weather.
2002 Jeep Wrangler TJ
4.0 Liter - Inline 6 cylinder
90,000 miles
Brand new Black Bestop Soft Top - the thickest one they offer to handle the cold weather
Full Steel Doors
35" General Grabber Red Letter Mud Tires
Dana 44 Rearend - 4.10 gears
High Pinion Dana 30 Front axle - 4.10 gears
Currie Currectlync Steering Setup
6 inch Rock Krawler Long Arm Lift
Detroit Electric Full Lockers Front and Rear
Iron Rock Offroad front trackbar
Iron Rock Offroad rear trackbar
Barely used Warn 9000 lb Winch + remote
Custom heavy duty front bumper
Steering box skid
D-rings
CB Antenna
PIAA Offroad lights
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Toys By Troy (or similiar) Bolt-In Rollcage addon
Full Flowmaster Exhaust
Brand new:
MetalCloak front Overline Fenders
MetalCloak front 3" Fender Flares
MetalCloak rear 3" Fender Flares
MetalCloak Rock Rails
Metalcloak Wolverine hood decal
The only bad: It needs a windshield pretty bad, but we don't feel like replacing just to sell it. It also has the normal slow Jeep leaks underneath. This Jeep will take you wherever you want to go whenever you want to go there. Please get ahold of me during decent hours. Will have to schedule to view it. I prefer texts if you're going to ask easy questions.
515-321-0176
Is this bar supposed to move like this?
Under the front of my 2000 WJ, there's a long horizontal bar that has the steering stablizer connected to it. It basically goes from one wheel to the other.
When I try to move it, it doesn't move left to right, but it does sort of swivel up and down.
I am not sure the name of the bar (maybe tie rod?).
Is this normal? I am just trying to find the source of my loose steering. (I drove my wifes Mazda3 to work today and omg what a difference :))
Thanks!
When I try to move it, it doesn't move left to right, but it does sort of swivel up and down.
I am not sure the name of the bar (maybe tie rod?).
Is this normal? I am just trying to find the source of my loose steering. (I drove my wifes Mazda3 to work today and omg what a difference :))
Thanks!
Death Wobble Mystery
2003 TJ daily driver and beach buggy with 85K miles
Went with a Rough Country 3.5 lift kit about a year and a half ago with absolutely no issues. Drove like a champ on and off road with 0 death wobble or vibration. A few weeks back out of the blue she has a psychotic episode of DW and tries to throw me to the curb. Got underneath and did the usual visual, kick, tug & pull, inspection and found some worn stuff. I replaced all front ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link ends, upgraded the track bar, checked all bearings and u joints, and replaced the rears. Also replaced the RC steering damper w/ Rancho 5000 then rotated and speed balanced the Pro Comp 31's. Now I'm noticing that in the first 10 minutes or so of driving she'll attempt to wobble at around 55. However after she warms up a bit it becomes nearly non existent. after sitting for a long while or overnight she'll do it again until she warms and then it goes away again. I've also noticed when making very slow turns, like in a parking lot, the steering wheel doesn't return to straight smoothly, it kinda stutters. Could it be my steering box or power steering pump? any assistance or other posts referencing this would be appreciated as I couldn't find any:confused:
Went with a Rough Country 3.5 lift kit about a year and a half ago with absolutely no issues. Drove like a champ on and off road with 0 death wobble or vibration. A few weeks back out of the blue she has a psychotic episode of DW and tries to throw me to the curb. Got underneath and did the usual visual, kick, tug & pull, inspection and found some worn stuff. I replaced all front ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link ends, upgraded the track bar, checked all bearings and u joints, and replaced the rears. Also replaced the RC steering damper w/ Rancho 5000 then rotated and speed balanced the Pro Comp 31's. Now I'm noticing that in the first 10 minutes or so of driving she'll attempt to wobble at around 55. However after she warms up a bit it becomes nearly non existent. after sitting for a long while or overnight she'll do it again until she warms and then it goes away again. I've also noticed when making very slow turns, like in a parking lot, the steering wheel doesn't return to straight smoothly, it kinda stutters. Could it be my steering box or power steering pump? any assistance or other posts referencing this would be appreciated as I couldn't find any:confused:
Original Side steps. Different for CJ5 and CJ7?
Were the original sidesteps different between the 5's and 7's?
can i use a power trax dana 30 no slip locker with a 242 transfer case?
hello everyone. I own a 96 jeep grand Cherokee with the standard 4.0l. I have d30 in front and d35 in rear with the 242 transfer case. I have a 2in bb lift with 31's. I like to use the it on fire roads and trails and camping and exploring some rough back roads and such but, no rock crawling or anything super extreme. I live in AZ so, no driving in snow or ice.since I have the d35 I have been told its a waste to spend money on it and just leave as a open carrier until I can upgrade to a better axle. so, that leaves the front to add something.I like the way the jeep is now and and runs good and have not had any problems with it but, I would like to improve the traction. I went down a big rabbit hole re searching lockers/ lsd/ lunchbox lockers/locking the rear vs front etc..i don't have the money for arbs and the type of 4wheeling I do I don't think its for me. the powertrax looks very appealing but, people say I cannot use it with a 242 transfer case cause it will harm the transfer case if I use it in full time 4 wheel drive mode but, they can never really explain why. very frustrating.my funds are limited. if it dies not harm the t-case I am kinda leaning towards the power trax no slip in the front. sorry for the long winded post but,i just wanted to know where I'm coming from. thank you for your answers
Towing
I have a hitch on my old car and am wondering what are the bare minimum extras I would need to get on a Grand Cherokee? I am looking to tow a 18" bowrider boat. Can I get a base Loredo or must I spend more on a Loredo E for any certain package? Just heard about that cooling fan and that is concerning me. Also is there a different build to distribute weight with the Loredo E? Thanks in advance!
The Faz's Build Thread
dimanche 24 août 2014
Greetings all, my name is Jon and this build thread is long overdue. I've been lurking for a few years now and figured it was finally time I got my act together and posted this up. I haven't done too much that's unique, but perhaps I can give a few people some ideas. I've been very inspired by many of the rigs on here, some of which are absolutely sick.
First things first, why The Faz? Well, there's not too much of a story there besides my license plate containing the letters FAZ, which of course led friends to dub my jeep "The Faz". Anddd it stuck. Lol.
When I was younger my parents had a WJ, bone stock with a 6 banger. I enjoyed driving it and when the time came to purchase a vehicle of my own, I decided to go for the next model year which led me to purchasing a 2007 Hemi Overland fully loaded with everything except the DVD player.
Here it is in all it's stock glory with 32k on the ODO:
First things first, why The Faz? Well, there's not too much of a story there besides my license plate containing the letters FAZ, which of course led friends to dub my jeep "The Faz". Anddd it stuck. Lol.
When I was younger my parents had a WJ, bone stock with a 6 banger. I enjoyed driving it and when the time came to purchase a vehicle of my own, I decided to go for the next model year which led me to purchasing a 2007 Hemi Overland fully loaded with everything except the DVD player.
Here it is in all it's stock glory with 32k on the ODO:
1999 WJ, few questions that need quick answers
Hey guys,
I have a couple questions i hope can be quickly answered, I've been having this issue with my fans lately...not the blend doors or recirc doors, but oddly it's either what controls the air to the vents or the mode board is malfunctioning on me. I've made a diagram to easier explain my question.
what determines which vents the air goes through when a specific mode is selected?
example: not always but maybe sometimes or randomly i'll select a mode "dashboard vents only" and i'll get air from the foot area only instead, then i'll switch through the modes a few times and end up back to the dashboard vents and suddenly it'll work, or sometimes not at all...
second question is, if i take my wheels off, how many spins to the lug nuts does it take to tighten to the right tightness with a tire iron?
third question is, when i insert my cassette adapter into the tapedeck to play music from my phone, it keeps flipping sides of the tape until eventually it just spits the tape back out, i've tried cleaning the inside pins with a wet q-tip and no success, any ideas for a quick fix?
I have a couple questions i hope can be quickly answered, I've been having this issue with my fans lately...not the blend doors or recirc doors, but oddly it's either what controls the air to the vents or the mode board is malfunctioning on me. I've made a diagram to easier explain my question.
what determines which vents the air goes through when a specific mode is selected?
example: not always but maybe sometimes or randomly i'll select a mode "dashboard vents only" and i'll get air from the foot area only instead, then i'll switch through the modes a few times and end up back to the dashboard vents and suddenly it'll work, or sometimes not at all...
second question is, if i take my wheels off, how many spins to the lug nuts does it take to tighten to the right tightness with a tire iron?
third question is, when i insert my cassette adapter into the tapedeck to play music from my phone, it keeps flipping sides of the tape until eventually it just spits the tape back out, i've tried cleaning the inside pins with a wet q-tip and no success, any ideas for a quick fix?
zj computer
Whats up all , whats all involved in changing my 95 zj 5.2 computet...think its causing my motor to shut off while under load..changed a bunch of other sensors and still does same thing...thank all in advance
Jeep XJ Cherokee 2 door f/s
Very clean XJ for sale. I bought this earlier this summer and have been slowly going through it. This was going to be a project/DD, but my plate has gotten pretty full and although it is good to go now, I know I would never be finished with it.
It's originally from the east coast, so it's pretty much rust free. I patched in a couple of small holes but very solid. Normal wear and some dents, but original paint.
137K miles 4.0 with 5 speed, 2WD. Manual locks, windows. Has air that doesn't work. Runs great and gets great mileage. 25 mpg isn't uncommon. I would drive this anywhere, anytime.
New tires. New master, rotors/pads/calipers.
I cleaned up the interior and added a bunch of dynamat. I left the carpet in the cargo area, but left it out in front where I bedlined and painted the floor. Headliner was nasty, so I just left it out.
I have a few extras I would include as well. TNT frame stifferners. Rusty's rear spring reinforcements & some other stuff, too.
Yes, it is 2WD, but I have a matching geared HP30 and AX/231 that I would be willing to deal on. Basically everything you would need to convert to 4WD except the driveshaft.
I would like to sell it, but would trade towards a clean TJ.
Check out the pictures, get in touch if you're interested. Thanks for looking.
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It's originally from the east coast, so it's pretty much rust free. I patched in a couple of small holes but very solid. Normal wear and some dents, but original paint.
137K miles 4.0 with 5 speed, 2WD. Manual locks, windows. Has air that doesn't work. Runs great and gets great mileage. 25 mpg isn't uncommon. I would drive this anywhere, anytime.
New tires. New master, rotors/pads/calipers.
I cleaned up the interior and added a bunch of dynamat. I left the carpet in the cargo area, but left it out in front where I bedlined and painted the floor. Headliner was nasty, so I just left it out.
I have a few extras I would include as well. TNT frame stifferners. Rusty's rear spring reinforcements & some other stuff, too.
Yes, it is 2WD, but I have a matching geared HP30 and AX/231 that I would be willing to deal on. Basically everything you would need to convert to 4WD except the driveshaft.
I would like to sell it, but would trade towards a clean TJ.
Check out the pictures, get in touch if you're interested. Thanks for looking.
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Wrangler 2door jk 2012 safari top, windjammer, dustercover
Selling my besttop safari cable cover and my besttop dust cover and windjammer. It's for a 2 door wrangler. I'm only selling it b.c I'm getting a four door in a couple of weeks. I love it. I drove all summer with both of them on and never had a puddle or a leak. I use the safari top with the factory door surrounds for the purpose of it not leaking. It gives you the feeling of always being outside which is why I loved it. I only had it on for this summer so it's practically new. I also have the Tonno prop so it lifts the duster cover up so no puddles form. All hardware I have. Very easy to put together. I can ship it or pick it up. Located in Long Island, ny(Suffolk). I'm selling everything for $350. Great deal I paid double that.
exhaust help
Here lately my exhaust has developed a small leak. I looked this morning and the tail pipe seemed loose. After further inspection where the pipe meets the muffler is loose. I can move the pipe around and see a decent sized gap. Can I weld the pipe to the muffler to fix this?
1989 Wagoneer Limited
Hey, I'm working on my on restore my new jeep to be my family wagon and my trail toy. So if I have the right spot to post this thread this will kinda be a time line for upgrades and such as well as getting to know u jeep peeps, and maybe so tips for other XJ owners who may have the same questions i do.
Map sensors
samedi 23 août 2014
My sons 4.0 now has a 1600 rpm idle, yea , just a little high. I pulled the codes and map sensor came up as open circut. Being I'm an " old guy " I had to do a little reading on what these little sensors did. What I don't understand is if they sense load on the engine, and at idle there is no load, why is the idle so high !?!?
My rear end is making funny noises. Need help figuring out why.
So here is the story.
I installed a used S35 kit with a Detroit locker it drove nice and quiet. No gear whine at all. A few months later wear showed up in the locker cogs as ratcheting while driving forward.
When it was installed I used all new bearings on the locker and my pinion with a new crush sleeve.
It made zero noise when I put it up on the lift to tear it apart.
My Fix:
-Took locker out, set all of the parts on my cart the same way they came out.
-Took the locker guts out flipped them over and put it back together
The three center cogs in the picture (ignore the rest, not the same as my locker)
(So when driving forward I would be using the cogs that were originally used in reverse). The locker operation is 100% normal, except it ratchets when I decelerate, which I expected to happen. I'll replace those eventually.
-I put it all back together the same way that it came apart (the orientation of the locker case was not affected by my fix, just the internals).
Immediately after I put it back together I have pretty intense gear whine that gets worse while cornering.
I have pulled it back apart and the mesh pattern seems the same, even swapped the shims around just in case I messed those up and no change.
I'm 100% sure the bearing caps are correct.
I've been back inside of it several times since trying to figure it out and I can't.
The noise ONLY happens under load. If I'm coasting in neutral at any speed it's nearly silent.
What in the world could have gone wrong? I'm tired of the nose and I have to open it up to replace a bent shaft soon anyway. Just want it to be quiet!
I installed a used S35 kit with a Detroit locker it drove nice and quiet. No gear whine at all. A few months later wear showed up in the locker cogs as ratcheting while driving forward.
When it was installed I used all new bearings on the locker and my pinion with a new crush sleeve.
It made zero noise when I put it up on the lift to tear it apart.
My Fix:
-Took locker out, set all of the parts on my cart the same way they came out.
-Took the locker guts out flipped them over and put it back together
The three center cogs in the picture (ignore the rest, not the same as my locker)
(So when driving forward I would be using the cogs that were originally used in reverse). The locker operation is 100% normal, except it ratchets when I decelerate, which I expected to happen. I'll replace those eventually.
-I put it all back together the same way that it came apart (the orientation of the locker case was not affected by my fix, just the internals).
Immediately after I put it back together I have pretty intense gear whine that gets worse while cornering.
I have pulled it back apart and the mesh pattern seems the same, even swapped the shims around just in case I messed those up and no change.
I'm 100% sure the bearing caps are correct.
I've been back inside of it several times since trying to figure it out and I can't.
The noise ONLY happens under load. If I'm coasting in neutral at any speed it's nearly silent.
What in the world could have gone wrong? I'm tired of the nose and I have to open it up to replace a bent shaft soon anyway. Just want it to be quiet!
4 pinion e-locker
Wanted to know if anyone is running one of the newer Eaton "E-locker 4" units in a D44 rear end? If so, how has your experience been?
Need Help With Harness Connector!
:thumbsup:Went to put in some daystar switches, and pulled this guy out, Now I know it's not for front fog lights, the only thing I can think of is rear defogger. What you think?? I also have an open reley spot uner the hood a PDC box. it's powered etc..
Freedom Top leak
Anyone have a trick to fix Freedom top leaks? Mine's leaking at the windshield latch in the middle and only if the jeep is on an angle (up or downhill).
2007 jgc 5.7
Hey everyone. I apologize in advance if I am beating a dead horse with this issue. Did a search and couldn't find what I was looking for.
To the question.
I test drove a 2007 Grand Cherokee 5.7 4x4 today. 97k mikes. Asking 13k. The vehicle had a "shutter" if you will during light acceleration. What are some common problems to cause this issue? Is this something worth getting involved in? Or will it haunt me in the future? I know this is not much information. Any kinda direction or experience with this issue would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
To the question.
I test drove a 2007 Grand Cherokee 5.7 4x4 today. 97k mikes. Asking 13k. The vehicle had a "shutter" if you will during light acceleration. What are some common problems to cause this issue? Is this something worth getting involved in? Or will it haunt me in the future? I know this is not much information. Any kinda direction or experience with this issue would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
New to me Renegade!
Hello all! :wave:
I have been out of the Jeep community since '02 (had an '04 Wrangler Sport 4.0) for underder a year. Then I turned to Subaru. Had an '02 WRX, '07 STI, '05 Legacy GT Limited wagon, an '04 Forester XT 5spd & lastly an '05 Baja Turbo 5spd.
Life changes happen, & I kinda been wanting to change the scenery for awhile, so I sold my Baja last week & picked up this cherry, '04 Liberty Renegade w/Off Road pckg. & only 55,8XX original miles!
Already made appt. to get the front windows tinted to match the rears plus add the tint strip on the upper part of the windshield. Also I just received my "Renegade" hood decals & ordered smoked bumper lights tonight.
I'm looking forward to learn more about my Jeep & all Jeeps in general. Looking forward to local meets & lots of adventure!
Cheers!
-Los
I have been out of the Jeep community since '02 (had an '04 Wrangler Sport 4.0) for underder a year. Then I turned to Subaru. Had an '02 WRX, '07 STI, '05 Legacy GT Limited wagon, an '04 Forester XT 5spd & lastly an '05 Baja Turbo 5spd.
Life changes happen, & I kinda been wanting to change the scenery for awhile, so I sold my Baja last week & picked up this cherry, '04 Liberty Renegade w/Off Road pckg. & only 55,8XX original miles!
Already made appt. to get the front windows tinted to match the rears plus add the tint strip on the upper part of the windshield. Also I just received my "Renegade" hood decals & ordered smoked bumper lights tonight.
I'm looking forward to learn more about my Jeep & all Jeeps in general. Looking forward to local meets & lots of adventure!
Cheers!
-Los
Various JK/TK Stuff
My girlfriend has moved in, so I’ve got to make space…….for her shoes. I have a few things worth selling, so have a look:
JK Rugged Ridge Jack Mount. NIB (I decided to used a hood mount instead) Model # 11586.01 $60
TJ Mopar Battery Blanket. Still in shrink wrap (Never used). Model # 82300778 $20
TJ Mopar Engine Block Heater. Still NIB (Never installed) Model # 82201506 $20
TJ Mopar Rubicon Diamond Plate Rock Rails. Never installed. Model # 82208021 $100
Rear Seat Storage Tote. (used only a few times, really good condition). I believe it fits CJ, YJ, and TJ seats. Model # 5079015 $30
Black Firestik 3 Foot CB Antenna. Used, but great condition. Model # FS-3BK. $10
JK Rugged Ridge Jack Mount. NIB (I decided to used a hood mount instead) Model # 11586.01 $60
TJ Mopar Battery Blanket. Still in shrink wrap (Never used). Model # 82300778 $20
TJ Mopar Engine Block Heater. Still NIB (Never installed) Model # 82201506 $20
TJ Mopar Rubicon Diamond Plate Rock Rails. Never installed. Model # 82208021 $100
Rear Seat Storage Tote. (used only a few times, really good condition). I believe it fits CJ, YJ, and TJ seats. Model # 5079015 $30
Black Firestik 3 Foot CB Antenna. Used, but great condition. Model # FS-3BK. $10
smoking steeling column???
vendredi 22 août 2014
:confused:so driving home In my 95 xj I noticed slight wisps of smoke coming from my steering column. It did not smell or feel hot. The smoke did not last long and was very faint. It has been about a 100 degrees all day and my jeep can get very very hot. I do not know if this could be related but my horn has not worked properly since I got the jeep earlier this year. I figure the horn needs rewiring just haven't gotten to it. I was thinking maybe a wire was touching ground somewhere inside or maybe the motor got to hot. no clue. But I am slightly worried about the steering column spontaneously combusting O.O I did an online search and seem to be a fairly common thing with xjs but all the things I have read have had burning smells or lights shorting out or something similar. For me there is no smell and everything works minus the horn which has been a problem long before the smoking... is it ok to drive?? and how do I go about removing the casing around the column I have tried before and only succeeded in cracking the case. Any help would be really really nice especially because it is my only vehicle and I need it for class and work!
Persistent front end creaking sound
I’ve been getting a creaking sound which appears to be coming from somewhere in the front end. At times, it sounds almost like clutch chatter (weird since I have an auto), other times like a squeaky spring compressing & unloading in resonance. I find it happens mostly at low speeds around town.
After searching the forums a bit, I greased the front sway bar rubber bushings with white lithium grease, then hit the sway bar end links and the spring perches with WD-40. No change. Nothing appears to be loose and there is nothing else to grease. Any other ideas?
After searching the forums a bit, I greased the front sway bar rubber bushings with white lithium grease, then hit the sway bar end links and the spring perches with WD-40. No change. Nothing appears to be loose and there is nothing else to grease. Any other ideas?
Radiator near DC
Folks I am so close to having my 83 CJ7 back on the road but I need a radiator. Is there anyone in the Washington DC area that has I one I could buy?
P2264 - Water in Fuel Sensor Circuit
P2264 - P2264 - Water in Fuel Sensor Circuit in Fuel Sensor Circuit. Can anyone help me with I should do next. Not sure what would have caused this.
2013 6sp shift boot
I have a question regarding a body lift install for a 2013 2dr sport.
I have researched this to death and decided to purchase a RC 1.25" kit with the shifter adapter.
Now to my question. A lot of people have complained about the rubber shift boot causing a problem in 1,3,5 gears. I have seen a lot of photos that show a rather beefy pleated shift boot. However my Jeep came with a soft "pleather" or leather boot, so i don't think this will cause me any heartache.
Am I confused about what boot people are talking about , did they change the outer boot to a soft one in 2013+ years?
I have researched this to death and decided to purchase a RC 1.25" kit with the shifter adapter.
Now to my question. A lot of people have complained about the rubber shift boot causing a problem in 1,3,5 gears. I have seen a lot of photos that show a rather beefy pleated shift boot. However my Jeep came with a soft "pleather" or leather boot, so i don't think this will cause me any heartache.
Am I confused about what boot people are talking about , did they change the outer boot to a soft one in 2013+ years?
Stainless Steel Door Hinge Pins
Magnitude Engineering's premium line of stainless steel replacement pins for Jeep Wrangler door hinges will allow you to replace your corroded, deteriorated, broken, or worn out pins with ease. Whether you are trying eliminate unsightly rust, compensate for years of wear, fix that door that won't latch properly, or prevent potentially damaging leaks due to door misalignment; replacing your pins is a simple and cost effective way to improve the appearance and operation of your door.
Simply remove the old pins and insert new ones in their place without the extra time, expense, and risk of replacing your hinges. As opposed to replacing your hinges, replacing only your pins minimizes the risk stripping a screw, exposing unpainted steel, or damaging paint on your door that could cause it to rust.
Magnitude Engineering's premium replacement pins are precision machined from solid stainless steel bar. Unlike OEM or other replacement pins that are cold formed from rust susceptible mild steel and coated with a thin layer of plating that can be scratched or wear away over time, these solid stainless steel pins will not flake or rust.
Visit the Magnitude Engineering website for more information or to purchase at:
http://ift.tt/1lqSaXy
Simply remove the old pins and insert new ones in their place without the extra time, expense, and risk of replacing your hinges. As opposed to replacing your hinges, replacing only your pins minimizes the risk stripping a screw, exposing unpainted steel, or damaging paint on your door that could cause it to rust.
Magnitude Engineering's premium replacement pins are precision machined from solid stainless steel bar. Unlike OEM or other replacement pins that are cold formed from rust susceptible mild steel and coated with a thin layer of plating that can be scratched or wear away over time, these solid stainless steel pins will not flake or rust.
Visit the Magnitude Engineering website for more information or to purchase at:
http://ift.tt/1lqSaXy
Hello from San Diego
Greetings Forum!
I am excited to get started on my first Jeep 4x4. I just purchased a 1988 XJ Cherokee and I couldn't be happier.
I don't know a whole lot about it - just that it is a 4.0 MPI, Manual tranny 4x4 with a suspension lift and no carpet, no muffler (yet).
This is a new challenge for me. I spent most of my time fixing up coupes (74 Chevy Nova, 80 Fiat Spider, 2000 Ford ZX3).
See you on the boards!
I am excited to get started on my first Jeep 4x4. I just purchased a 1988 XJ Cherokee and I couldn't be happier.
I don't know a whole lot about it - just that it is a 4.0 MPI, Manual tranny 4x4 with a suspension lift and no carpet, no muffler (yet).
This is a new challenge for me. I spent most of my time fixing up coupes (74 Chevy Nova, 80 Fiat Spider, 2000 Ford ZX3).
See you on the boards!
please recommend coils
jeudi 21 août 2014
Didn't see a "Suspension forum".
I need a coil recommendation for 3 TJs. All stock 4.0. Not front, rear or side heavy. Well aluminum bumpers and poison spyder rocker guards. No winches, but all have 31-33" spares on the back
Looking for coils that will be stiff in turns so I can barely tell I'm taking a corner. That will hit speed bumps or potholes like they're riding on air. I already have shocks selected. After YEARS of testing I keep going back to Rancho 5000s or 9000s. Teraflex and Skyjacker are already out. I used to.love their products, now not all much.
Thanks
I need a coil recommendation for 3 TJs. All stock 4.0. Not front, rear or side heavy. Well aluminum bumpers and poison spyder rocker guards. No winches, but all have 31-33" spares on the back
Looking for coils that will be stiff in turns so I can barely tell I'm taking a corner. That will hit speed bumps or potholes like they're riding on air. I already have shocks selected. After YEARS of testing I keep going back to Rancho 5000s or 9000s. Teraflex and Skyjacker are already out. I used to.love their products, now not all much.
Thanks
High Brake Pedal
New to the Forum, Just purchased an unmolested 1978 CJ5 (yes, totally stock) from the original owner. My problem is with the brake pedal. The clutch pedal is 5" from the firewall while the brake pedal is 10" from the firewall. The pedal is so high that my knee hits the steering wheel before I can get my foot on it.
Any ideas? Any and all help will be appreciated.
Any ideas? Any and all help will be appreciated.
Led turn signal wiring question
I've been helping a buddy wire in led turn signals on a 98 tj. He add the ep26 flasher like he should. Everything works fine when his head lights are off but as soon as he turns on his lights his turn signals won't work. I've searched and found others with the same problem but I couldn't find a solution. On the fronts he has the parking light wire capped off so he's only using the led light as a turn signal.
Black wire on led hooked to black wire
Black/yellow capped off
Red led wire hooked to tan wire
Any suggestions ?
Black wire on led hooked to black wire
Black/yellow capped off
Red led wire hooked to tan wire
Any suggestions ?
Shifting Issues
Hello all,
just bought my fist jeep. 2 door 1991 Laredo, 4.0L HO straight 6, 5 speed manual tyranny. This thing has been in and out of the shop for a month now for the same thing and i don't think the guys in the shop know hot to fix it. here is the story.
Bought the truck for a steal and figured there was something wrong with it but had the money to replace the engine or tyranny if need be because of how cheap i got it. When i test drove it I knew it needed new drive lines as they vibrated on highway. but otherwise it ran great and only had 140000 miles on it with brand new 35's. so I brought it home and scheduled a used vehicle inspection at a well respected local shop. before i could get it in however, it started to get hard to shift. Its fine at first but after 10-15 min of driving 1st gear becomes really hard to get into. and the clutch had to be all the way to the floor to shift and just like half an inch off the floor was all it took for the clutch to be back in. very touchy. So the day after the appointment I was driving it and about 10 min into the drive as always, 1st started to get hard to get into. and after about 20min, It got stuck at an intersection on a busy road.... It was stuck in neutral. couldn't get it into 1st gear at all, or any gear for that matter as i recall. If i turned the truck off i could get it into gear fine. so I turned the truck off, put it in 1st and started it in gear and was able to limp it off the road. Called AAA and had it towed to the shop.
The shop did there inspection and came back with:
Replace rear main seal:$500
Rebuild all drive lines and u joints:$1100
Entire clutch rebuild(including clutch,pressure plate, slave and master cylinders,resurface fly-wheel):$900
Fix the starter(was put in all sorts of wrong....)$30
I went ahead and authorized all the work. two weeks later, 2 days over how long they said it would take (drive lines took forever to get back from drive line shop) its still not done. they have finished all the work but the shop says "it still seams like the clutch fades out after driving for a while." and they dont know why. As in why I brought it in the first place.... So two days later they call me and tell me its done.
I go and pick it up and they tell me it was the rod that goes from the peddle to the cylinder. apparently it was a badly done home job and replacing it fixed the problem. And so for the next day or so, it drives fine, clutch feels great, peddle is no where near as touchy, goes into gear smoothly, All though I dont drive it further than 5 miles on those days. On the third day I drive it about 10 miles and it gets hard to get into 1st gear again. not as bad before but still creeps into first, but other than that, drives great.
Today however, My wife took the jeep to go see her mother after work... about 25 miles away. and wouldn't you know it? it gets hard to get into 1st... then it gets stuck in neutral again. She calls me and tells me she cant get it into any gear.
So its back on a AAA truck headed back to the shop...
Dose anyone have an idea as to what this could be? because the shop dose not. The guy i Keep talking to dose not get it saying "everything that could be causing this has been replaced, there is nothing old connected to the clutch to fail" The only thing he could think of is that the new slave cylinder is faulty. Could this be a tyranny problem? I asked the shop and he said most likely not.
I should clarify that before bringing it into the shop, when it got stuck the first time, the clutch felt ok, from what i could tell. it wasnt slipping or anything like that. and i asked how the clutch looked after they replaced it and they said that "the clutch didnt look to bad, a little warn, but the pressure plate was DONE." so did they sell me a clutch job i didnt need? also I noticed that the shift boot has been torn and is barley there. could it be the actual shifter?
Any leads would be much appreciated as I am about to start school and need a dependable vehicle.
Thank you for your time, Hex.
just bought my fist jeep. 2 door 1991 Laredo, 4.0L HO straight 6, 5 speed manual tyranny. This thing has been in and out of the shop for a month now for the same thing and i don't think the guys in the shop know hot to fix it. here is the story.
Bought the truck for a steal and figured there was something wrong with it but had the money to replace the engine or tyranny if need be because of how cheap i got it. When i test drove it I knew it needed new drive lines as they vibrated on highway. but otherwise it ran great and only had 140000 miles on it with brand new 35's. so I brought it home and scheduled a used vehicle inspection at a well respected local shop. before i could get it in however, it started to get hard to shift. Its fine at first but after 10-15 min of driving 1st gear becomes really hard to get into. and the clutch had to be all the way to the floor to shift and just like half an inch off the floor was all it took for the clutch to be back in. very touchy. So the day after the appointment I was driving it and about 10 min into the drive as always, 1st started to get hard to get into. and after about 20min, It got stuck at an intersection on a busy road.... It was stuck in neutral. couldn't get it into 1st gear at all, or any gear for that matter as i recall. If i turned the truck off i could get it into gear fine. so I turned the truck off, put it in 1st and started it in gear and was able to limp it off the road. Called AAA and had it towed to the shop.
The shop did there inspection and came back with:
Replace rear main seal:$500
Rebuild all drive lines and u joints:$1100
Entire clutch rebuild(including clutch,pressure plate, slave and master cylinders,resurface fly-wheel):$900
Fix the starter(was put in all sorts of wrong....)$30
I went ahead and authorized all the work. two weeks later, 2 days over how long they said it would take (drive lines took forever to get back from drive line shop) its still not done. they have finished all the work but the shop says "it still seams like the clutch fades out after driving for a while." and they dont know why. As in why I brought it in the first place.... So two days later they call me and tell me its done.
I go and pick it up and they tell me it was the rod that goes from the peddle to the cylinder. apparently it was a badly done home job and replacing it fixed the problem. And so for the next day or so, it drives fine, clutch feels great, peddle is no where near as touchy, goes into gear smoothly, All though I dont drive it further than 5 miles on those days. On the third day I drive it about 10 miles and it gets hard to get into 1st gear again. not as bad before but still creeps into first, but other than that, drives great.
Today however, My wife took the jeep to go see her mother after work... about 25 miles away. and wouldn't you know it? it gets hard to get into 1st... then it gets stuck in neutral again. She calls me and tells me she cant get it into any gear.
So its back on a AAA truck headed back to the shop...
Dose anyone have an idea as to what this could be? because the shop dose not. The guy i Keep talking to dose not get it saying "everything that could be causing this has been replaced, there is nothing old connected to the clutch to fail" The only thing he could think of is that the new slave cylinder is faulty. Could this be a tyranny problem? I asked the shop and he said most likely not.
I should clarify that before bringing it into the shop, when it got stuck the first time, the clutch felt ok, from what i could tell. it wasnt slipping or anything like that. and i asked how the clutch looked after they replaced it and they said that "the clutch didnt look to bad, a little warn, but the pressure plate was DONE." so did they sell me a clutch job i didnt need? also I noticed that the shift boot has been torn and is barley there. could it be the actual shifter?
Any leads would be much appreciated as I am about to start school and need a dependable vehicle.
Thank you for your time, Hex.
42RLE sensor - 1 wire only?
Hi guys, I've been fighting with my transmission which keeps throwing a code "P0846 - 2/4 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch B"
Looking through the forums, I've found a bit about the sensors simply going bad, but when I finally crawled underneath, I was surprised that one of the sensors coming off the Pax side only had one wire on it.
Can someone verify this is correct? Not sure what kind of sensor would only have one wire to it.
The similar sensor on the other side has 2 wires coming off of it.
Thanks!
Looking through the forums, I've found a bit about the sensors simply going bad, but when I finally crawled underneath, I was surprised that one of the sensors coming off the Pax side only had one wire on it.
Can someone verify this is correct? Not sure what kind of sensor would only have one wire to it.
The similar sensor on the other side has 2 wires coming off of it.
Thanks!
2002 Jeep Wrangler TJ - Cloaked and Modded
Copy of my Craigslist Ad:
I'm posting for sale a 2002 TJ Wrangler which is in amazing shape, has a bunch of excellent features, and has been very loved by it's current owner. Please do not low ball. We will accept offers, but please be reasonable. It has many new parts and does excellent in all weather.
2002 Jeep Wrangler TJ
4.0 Liter - Inline 6 cylinder
90,000 miles
Brand new Black Bestop Soft Top - the thickest one they offer to handle the cold weather
Full Steel Doors
35" General Grabber Red Letter Mud Tires
Dana 44 Rearend - 4.10 gears
High Pinion Dana 30 Front axle - 4.10 gears
Currie Currectlync Steering Setup
6 inch Rock Krawler Long Arm Lift
Detroit Electric Full Lockers Front and Rear
Iron Rock Offroad front trackbar
Iron Rock Offroad rear trackbar
Barely used Warn 9000 lb Winch + remote
Custom heavy duty front bumper
Steering box skid
D-rings
CB Antenna
PIAA Offroad lights
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Toys By Troy (or similiar) Bolt-In Rollcage addon
Full Flowmaster Exhaust
Brand new:
MetalCloak front Overline Fenders
MetalCloak front 3" Fender Flares
MetalCloak rear 3" Fender Flares
MetalCloak Rock Rails
Metalcloak Wolverine hood decal
The only bad: It needs a windshield pretty bad, but we don't feel like replacing just to sell it. It also has the normal slow Jeep leaks underneath. This Jeep will take you wherever you want to go whenever you want to go there. Please get ahold of me during decent hours. Will have to schedule to view it. I prefer texts if you're going to ask easy questions.
515-321-0176
I'm posting for sale a 2002 TJ Wrangler which is in amazing shape, has a bunch of excellent features, and has been very loved by it's current owner. Please do not low ball. We will accept offers, but please be reasonable. It has many new parts and does excellent in all weather.
2002 Jeep Wrangler TJ
4.0 Liter - Inline 6 cylinder
90,000 miles
Brand new Black Bestop Soft Top - the thickest one they offer to handle the cold weather
Full Steel Doors
35" General Grabber Red Letter Mud Tires
Dana 44 Rearend - 4.10 gears
High Pinion Dana 30 Front axle - 4.10 gears
Currie Currectlync Steering Setup
6 inch Rock Krawler Long Arm Lift
Detroit Electric Full Lockers Front and Rear
Iron Rock Offroad front trackbar
Iron Rock Offroad rear trackbar
Barely used Warn 9000 lb Winch + remote
Custom heavy duty front bumper
Steering box skid
D-rings
CB Antenna
PIAA Offroad lights
Wet Okole Seat Covers
Toys By Troy (or similiar) Bolt-In Rollcage addon
Full Flowmaster Exhaust
Brand new:
MetalCloak front Overline Fenders
MetalCloak front 3" Fender Flares
MetalCloak rear 3" Fender Flares
MetalCloak Rock Rails
Metalcloak Wolverine hood decal
The only bad: It needs a windshield pretty bad, but we don't feel like replacing just to sell it. It also has the normal slow Jeep leaks underneath. This Jeep will take you wherever you want to go whenever you want to go there. Please get ahold of me during decent hours. Will have to schedule to view it. I prefer texts if you're going to ask easy questions.
515-321-0176
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