So today my son and I replaced my oil pan in my 2005 KJ, which has been leaking for about a year. It's a 2.4L without 4WD. I had on here what a nightmare it is. One person said it's easiest to take the whole engine out when replacing the pan, another said he sold his KJ rather than replacing the pan. I think that's poppycock. Granted, it was easier with 2WD, not having the front axle in the way, but it wasn't too hard at all.
First of all, go here for some great advice:
http://ift.tt/1DDNvB4
Essentially, the way he does it is to get the pan loose, then undo the pickup tube and let it drop into the pan. The tube is what keeps you from being able to remove the pan. The repair manual doesn't say to remove the tube, so it recommends lifting the engine, but for that you have to undo the exhaust manifold and a bunch of other stuff. With this method, though, that's not necessary.
We started off by jacking it up, of course. We put it up high enough that we were able to get under it easily on a creeper, which made a difference once the oil started flowing. There's a transmission bracket at the back of the pan that has to be removed. It has eight 15mm bolts that all came out fairly easily. We couldn't get to them with an impact wrench, but they came off easily with a ratchet. The last one hit the exhaust as it backed out. I thought I could leave it partially removed and let the bracket hang, but no. We could just loosen the exhaust flange without removing it entirely, and that gave us enough clearance to get that last bolt out. Once that came out, the bracket landed on my face.
After that, the pan bolts all came off easily. My son dropped the pan down a bit, then wiggled it to the left so he could get to the pickup tube. There was a nut holding the rear support bracket on, then a bolt where the tube connected to the engine. It took some twisting, but he was able to remove those and let them drop into the pan, along with the tube. That link suggest turning the pan so the thinner (vertically) end is towards the passenger side to get it out, but my son was able to wiggle it out with no difficulty.
About a pint of oil was left in the pan, and it still dripped rather profusely from the engine the whole time. I put a section of newspaper over the crossmember to catch the drips, but it got saturated pretty quick. It also dripped on my face, in my mouth and in my nose. And in my hair. I used a razor blade to scrape the gasket surface clean and wiped it free of oil.
The manual and that site said that RTV sealant is needed on part of the gasket, but I couldn't figure out where they meant, so we went without it. I figure if it starts leaking, I could remove it again and put the sealant on. He bolted it back up, I replaced the filter and refilled it with oil. Then I started it up, let it run for a while, then took it around the block and checked for leaks. Everything was fine! I parked it on the last remaining spot on my driveway without an oil stain to make sure there were no leaks. So far, so good.
The hardest part, according to my son, was getting to the fasteners holding the pickup tube on. Other than that, not a bad job at all.
Next: the clutch!
Sorry there aren't any pictures.
First of all, go here for some great advice:
http://ift.tt/1DDNvB4
Essentially, the way he does it is to get the pan loose, then undo the pickup tube and let it drop into the pan. The tube is what keeps you from being able to remove the pan. The repair manual doesn't say to remove the tube, so it recommends lifting the engine, but for that you have to undo the exhaust manifold and a bunch of other stuff. With this method, though, that's not necessary.
We started off by jacking it up, of course. We put it up high enough that we were able to get under it easily on a creeper, which made a difference once the oil started flowing. There's a transmission bracket at the back of the pan that has to be removed. It has eight 15mm bolts that all came out fairly easily. We couldn't get to them with an impact wrench, but they came off easily with a ratchet. The last one hit the exhaust as it backed out. I thought I could leave it partially removed and let the bracket hang, but no. We could just loosen the exhaust flange without removing it entirely, and that gave us enough clearance to get that last bolt out. Once that came out, the bracket landed on my face.
After that, the pan bolts all came off easily. My son dropped the pan down a bit, then wiggled it to the left so he could get to the pickup tube. There was a nut holding the rear support bracket on, then a bolt where the tube connected to the engine. It took some twisting, but he was able to remove those and let them drop into the pan, along with the tube. That link suggest turning the pan so the thinner (vertically) end is towards the passenger side to get it out, but my son was able to wiggle it out with no difficulty.
About a pint of oil was left in the pan, and it still dripped rather profusely from the engine the whole time. I put a section of newspaper over the crossmember to catch the drips, but it got saturated pretty quick. It also dripped on my face, in my mouth and in my nose. And in my hair. I used a razor blade to scrape the gasket surface clean and wiped it free of oil.
The manual and that site said that RTV sealant is needed on part of the gasket, but I couldn't figure out where they meant, so we went without it. I figure if it starts leaking, I could remove it again and put the sealant on. He bolted it back up, I replaced the filter and refilled it with oil. Then I started it up, let it run for a while, then took it around the block and checked for leaks. Everything was fine! I parked it on the last remaining spot on my driveway without an oil stain to make sure there were no leaks. So far, so good.
The hardest part, according to my son, was getting to the fasteners holding the pickup tube on. Other than that, not a bad job at all.
Next: the clutch!
Sorry there aren't any pictures.
Oil Pan Replacement
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