hey everyone :wave: i recently moved from Iowa to South Carolina, and had a 93 4.0 I6 2 door XJ waiting for me (a friend in North Carolina got it for me, did some minor stuff for it; replaced some seals, balanced tires, changed oil and fuel filter.) with the exception of shaking around 55 mph (possible death wobble?) it drove the 3 hours back to SC without any issue. recently, I've been noticing the engine is skipping or missing, but only occasionally usually at slower acceleration. i changed the plugs and wires, and tomorrow plan on looking at the dist. cap and rotor for wear or corrosion. today, driving on the highway back from Augusta GA, i noticed it would smoke (white color) for about 20-30 seconds, then quit for 3-5 minutes, then smoke again. i checked the oil, and it's a nice clean amber color, no sign of water, and also checked the coolant res. it's dirty but no sign of oil. i thought it might have been bad gas, but my brother-in-law filled up at the same station a day or two after i did, and no issues. ill also add, the engine was replaced around 20k miles ago. with some rust on the floor board behind the pass. side front seat, and the above mentioned issues, the jeep is in great shape with only 130k miles on the body. any advise is very appreciated.
Ebola Alert. 1st Case Diagnosed in US
So unless you've been living under a rock, you have likely heard about the first confirmed case in Dallas, TX.
This hits a little too close to home for me, and I personally never thought Dallas would be the first site of infection in the US.
This hits a little too close to home for me, and I personally never thought Dallas would be the first site of infection in the US.
shorting out
Hey everyone,
I have an 02 Grand Cherokee 8cyl. My wife noticed the other day that my tail light was out; however, there is an exception to when it goes out. It only goes out when the headlights are on, and you press on the break. It does not go out when the headlights are off.
My thoughts are there is a short somewhere. Anyone have any suggestions?
I have an 02 Grand Cherokee 8cyl. My wife noticed the other day that my tail light was out; however, there is an exception to when it goes out. It only goes out when the headlights are on, and you press on the break. It does not go out when the headlights are off.
My thoughts are there is a short somewhere. Anyone have any suggestions?
Dana 44 re-gear setup help!
Hey guys, details on the "patient":
2004 Wrangler Unlimited, Dana 44 rear axle with factory installed 3.73 gears. It is also factory equipped with an LSD.
We are currently re-gearing to 4.88/4.89 combo using Ten Factory gear sets. The front Dana 30 install went smoothly, and we ended up with a perfect wear pattern.
The rear install we have an issue. Parts were ordered from Quadratec, and I have already called them to verify that according to them, the right parts were ordered, and everything in the boxes matches up. Trying to set the Pinion Depth right now, we have about 1/4" worth of shims :confused: I'm trying to get an answer if that's okay or not, but quadratec can't help, and I can't get anybody at Ten Factory on the phone.
Anybody with experience setting gears have input on my situation? Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
2004 Wrangler Unlimited, Dana 44 rear axle with factory installed 3.73 gears. It is also factory equipped with an LSD.
We are currently re-gearing to 4.88/4.89 combo using Ten Factory gear sets. The front Dana 30 install went smoothly, and we ended up with a perfect wear pattern.
The rear install we have an issue. Parts were ordered from Quadratec, and I have already called them to verify that according to them, the right parts were ordered, and everything in the boxes matches up. Trying to set the Pinion Depth right now, we have about 1/4" worth of shims :confused: I'm trying to get an answer if that's okay or not, but quadratec can't help, and I can't get anybody at Ten Factory on the phone.
Anybody with experience setting gears have input on my situation? Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
Sunroof rear drain lines, exit location?
Have an issue--
My driver-side rear sunroof vent tube is clogged (Leaking water into cabin). I took the headliner down, tried blowing out the tube with compressed air-- but it didnt work.
I want to check the nipple at the end of the line, but cannot locate it. Does anyone know where it is located & the best way to access it?
thanks!
My driver-side rear sunroof vent tube is clogged (Leaking water into cabin). I took the headliner down, tried blowing out the tube with compressed air-- but it didnt work.
I want to check the nipple at the end of the line, but cannot locate it. Does anyone know where it is located & the best way to access it?
thanks!
Doorless Mirrors
Hey everyone,
I was going to take the doors off my 2012 JKU Sahara, but then realized that I wouldn't have mirrors anymore. Do I buy new mirrors and mounts for them? If that is the route, what are some cheap ones? Thanks I appreciate the help.
I was going to take the doors off my 2012 JKU Sahara, but then realized that I wouldn't have mirrors anymore. Do I buy new mirrors and mounts for them? If that is the route, what are some cheap ones? Thanks I appreciate the help.
Speaker died? BA - reardor
Hi guys,
iam running 2005 WK with the Boston Acoustic System (per my build sheet) with an REF radio
one day just noticed, rear door driver side speaker doesnt work.
replacement with another one BA from other car didnt help
consider the following:
- wiring failure
- REF failure
any idea how to get out of this?
thnx
iam running 2005 WK with the Boston Acoustic System (per my build sheet) with an REF radio
one day just noticed, rear door driver side speaker doesnt work.
replacement with another one BA from other car didnt help
consider the following:
- wiring failure
- REF failure
any idea how to get out of this?
thnx
Help?
Ok. So i am new here. First two questions. First, i am trying to figure out how to add my vehicle to my profile. Cant seem to figure it out. Secondly, i have a 1989 jeep comanche with the 4.0. I was wondering if anyone knew what stock gear ratio my axles are. I read somewhere they could be 3.06 but im not sure. If i cant figure it out ill just pull the diff cover off and figure it out. Anyway, thanks for your time, and i have lots more questions for down the road.
2005 4.7 wk jeep fuel usage
hi i hade the manufolds planed a while ago and amist the job the air box intake was not inserted properly wich i fixed to day and made the fuel eco much better , down to 9 to 11 ltrs from 21 , there is allso a senser some where that requires cleaning , is it an air flow meter or senser, can any body help i have had 3 jeeps over the last 10 years and the wk is the best i have had on fuel , when i first brought it it was running around 7 to 11 ltrs around town where i live and want to do every thing i can to regain that , using low octain fuel and drive it quietly , but i still hoon it up when i get frisky ,i did a trip to hamilton some months ago wich is 199 ks from door to door and on a very full tank it was $46.00 to fill up there , so was running at about $23.00 per hundred, very wrapt compaired to the older jeeps , so where is this air flow meter or a air regulater thing that one can clean remember i replace the air cleaner 3 times a year thanks
Cj Windshield Banners/Decals
lundi 29 septembre 2014
Anyone running windshield stickers? I'm interested in one
89 YJ 2.5 valve cover
Not sure what years are compatible but looking for a 4 cylinder valve cover. Just hoping maybe someone has a spare that they are willing to let go for less than the new ones cost. Thanks guys
Looking for parts
I went out on the trails with my brother and he was driving to fast and hit a log. Long story short he needs a few parts. Thought I would try here. He needs a drag link, 1 or both front leaf springs and a steering box. It's a 73 cj5 with a 304. It's all stock so all we need is the stock parts. If anyone has these laying around could you please contact me
WIN a Mammoth Upgrade for your Jeep!
Enter the Mammoth Jeep Upgrade Giveaway to win a Mammoth Lift Kit, Mammoth Wheel and Tire Kit and all the accessories needed to get your rig lifted and rolling on big tires! Ends 10/31
door windows
I have lost or misplaced my cleaner for my soft top windows, would anyone suggest a product that might clean the inside and outside of the windows I could pick up locally or might have at home?
Remote Start Issues (?)
I love my 2012 Compass with the Altitude Package, but I have a serious love-hate relationship with the remote start.
I reside in sunny California; specifically Los Angeles where year round temperatures on average linger around 75-95 degrees [Fahrenheit]. In the summer those numbers raise to a blistering 95-115 degrees [Fahrenheit]. As you can see, the remote start is literal perfection for those who live in hot climates.
Anyhow, too long of an intro (sorry). The issue I am having with the remote start is that sometimes it doesn't work. I'll be walking towards the vehicle in a parking lot, click the button twice, the car gives to honks, and then tries to start itself only to try over and over again without kicking over. I have to cancel the remote start to get it to stop.
Now, here's the weird thing. If I do the same thing - two button clicks, two honks, press the unlock button, the car starts without hesitation.
Is this the normal operation? I have watched many videos on the Jeep YouTube channel about the remote start, and I have even done some research here and there only to come up with nothing that concludes my concern and curiosity.
Any ideas?
:o :confused:
I reside in sunny California; specifically Los Angeles where year round temperatures on average linger around 75-95 degrees [Fahrenheit]. In the summer those numbers raise to a blistering 95-115 degrees [Fahrenheit]. As you can see, the remote start is literal perfection for those who live in hot climates.
Anyhow, too long of an intro (sorry). The issue I am having with the remote start is that sometimes it doesn't work. I'll be walking towards the vehicle in a parking lot, click the button twice, the car gives to honks, and then tries to start itself only to try over and over again without kicking over. I have to cancel the remote start to get it to stop.
Now, here's the weird thing. If I do the same thing - two button clicks, two honks, press the unlock button, the car starts without hesitation.
Is this the normal operation? I have watched many videos on the Jeep YouTube channel about the remote start, and I have even done some research here and there only to come up with nothing that concludes my concern and curiosity.
Any ideas?
:o :confused:
Body transfer from an 80 CJ7 To an 85 CJ7
Hello all,
My first post here so please don't beat me up too bad.
I have an 80 cj7 that has a complete fiberglass body but was used as a plow truck and the frame is severely cracked and has the usual midwest rust. I recently purchased an 85 cj7 that sat for several years that has a swiss cheese body and perfect frame and mechanicals. Although it has probably been covered many times on this forum but I was wondering if the body transfer from the 80 to the 85 would be relatively painless. I'm hoping for painless but thought I would ask those in the know before I started. With the weather changing, I was hoping to complete the switch prior to winter to give my Suburban a backup. Any knowledge on the subject would be appreciated. Thanks in advance,
My first post here so please don't beat me up too bad.
I have an 80 cj7 that has a complete fiberglass body but was used as a plow truck and the frame is severely cracked and has the usual midwest rust. I recently purchased an 85 cj7 that sat for several years that has a swiss cheese body and perfect frame and mechanicals. Although it has probably been covered many times on this forum but I was wondering if the body transfer from the 80 to the 85 would be relatively painless. I'm hoping for painless but thought I would ask those in the know before I started. With the weather changing, I was hoping to complete the switch prior to winter to give my Suburban a backup. Any knowledge on the subject would be appreciated. Thanks in advance,
NO Brake, Turn, or Hazard
dimanche 28 septembre 2014
Hey folks,
New to the Jeep Forum boards, but I am an avid Jeep and diesel truck enthusiast who has fairly extensive automotive knowledge. My current Jeep is a 1987 YJ with a 1998 4.0 and a recently rebuilt 32RH swapped in. 4:10's, front and rear locked, 33's etc... I have an issue that I really have not dug too far into yet, but I wanted to consult with others to see if you can help save me some troubleshooting time. I recently went mudding and after a day of running through deep puddles, my brake lights, turn signals, and hazards decided they just didn't feel like working anymore. I am great with a multimeter, I just have not had time to crawl underneath and start checking voltages (school has been keeping me occupied). Is there a common failure part that could cause these symptoms? I have not had the YJ long enough to really analyze its wiring/schematics, and all I have checked is the 20A brake fuse (#3) under the dash, it is good. I have read a few threads, but most were just either a bad fuse, or just one set of lights not working (ie: brake OR turn, not both). Any help is appreciated, thanks!
New to the Jeep Forum boards, but I am an avid Jeep and diesel truck enthusiast who has fairly extensive automotive knowledge. My current Jeep is a 1987 YJ with a 1998 4.0 and a recently rebuilt 32RH swapped in. 4:10's, front and rear locked, 33's etc... I have an issue that I really have not dug too far into yet, but I wanted to consult with others to see if you can help save me some troubleshooting time. I recently went mudding and after a day of running through deep puddles, my brake lights, turn signals, and hazards decided they just didn't feel like working anymore. I am great with a multimeter, I just have not had time to crawl underneath and start checking voltages (school has been keeping me occupied). Is there a common failure part that could cause these symptoms? I have not had the YJ long enough to really analyze its wiring/schematics, and all I have checked is the 20A brake fuse (#3) under the dash, it is good. I have read a few threads, but most were just either a bad fuse, or just one set of lights not working (ie: brake OR turn, not both). Any help is appreciated, thanks!
What would you do? head gasket...
So I'm 99.9% sure my head gasket is blown, overheating and bubbles coming out of the cooling system are pretty good symptoms.
So I am thinking of tackling the job myself. but since I've never done a head gasket replacement I have some questiopns:
1) is there a brand of head gasket kit to get/avoid?
2) when I get the head off should I automatically get it machined? or is there a way to determine if it needs the work?
3) would it be better to buy a new head that is known to be good?
4) what else should I do while I have it apart?
5) any other options? I tried one of those additives and it didn't do anything.
I'm not planning on starting this tomorrow, but I want to see what all I need to do, and save up to have all the money ready to do it right the first time.
So I am thinking of tackling the job myself. but since I've never done a head gasket replacement I have some questiopns:
1) is there a brand of head gasket kit to get/avoid?
2) when I get the head off should I automatically get it machined? or is there a way to determine if it needs the work?
3) would it be better to buy a new head that is known to be good?
4) what else should I do while I have it apart?
5) any other options? I tried one of those additives and it didn't do anything.
I'm not planning on starting this tomorrow, but I want to see what all I need to do, and save up to have all the money ready to do it right the first time.
AEV wheels
Does anyone have the american expedition vehicles rims that are new for the tj... lightly used is ok but just curious if anyone has new ones they haven't used.. also would like headlock ones. For a tj bolt pattern please
No sound from radio
Hey guys I have about 8 hours left of a road trip and my radio stopped working. I filled up with diesel then got back on the highway and no sound. I tried all modes and an aux source, u connect also doesn't work. I looked through the owners manual and can't find anything. Next stop i will probably pull the fuse
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
Building a Jeep with no car knowledge....
Here's my story, I'm 16 and want to (in the future, 5-10 years down the road) build an awesome Willys CJ2a. The problem is- I have little to no car knowledge at all. I had little interest in how cars actually worked until the last year or so, before then I always judged cars based on how they looked, so I never bothered to be in the garage with my dad when he would work on his CJ-7. Now it's been gone for around 3 years and I think its time I start to work towards bringing a jeep back into the family. What I am looking to do is build an awesome Willys CJ2a (or possibly MB) for off road and on road use, I have plenty of pictures to post to show you the look Im going for. Basically I am looking to build something that looks like a toned down rock crawler. This won't be a daily driver so I'm not too terribly concerned about the mileage. But back to the main issue, like I said I know little to nothing about vehicles or how they function so this will be more a question thread than a build thread, until I start to buy parts and build. My first question is about possible transmissions. I don't want an automatic, but I'm not looking for anything fancy and I am not very good at driving stick. What I was thinking is a 3 speed transmission. However I don't where to look, what to look for, etc. So I need help from people who know what they are talking about. I don't know what information you might need to help me here, but I can try and give additional info to help. Engine wise I am looking at a Chevy 350 Small block. The whole Jeep will probably built from the ground up, unless I can find a frame in good shape, The tub and everything else will probably be all reproduction steel bodies because I don't want to do this to an original Jeep, especially if I decide to do an MB. Probably looking at Dana 44s, 6 inches of lift , 35 inch tires, 16 inch wheels. While I'm asking questions, I might as well ask, will I a small block 350 have enough power for all of this? I probably sound really stupid but I'm so lost so any help would be amazing, sorry for the really long post, I guess I should have paid more attention in the garage.:confused:
TJ mirror relocation brackets
1 pair of what I velieve to be Warrior Products side view mirror relocation brackets. They have been repainted(nicely)
Oil Pressure 0 and Check Gauges Light
I recently just changed my Oil Pressure Sending Unit on my 2.5 98 Wrangler because I broke it some time ago while trying to troubleshoot why the pressure was dropping to 0 and triggering the Check Gauges Light. Now that I have a brand new aftermarket sending unit installed, the oil pressure gauge stays at 0 without moving and with the Check Gauges Light on. The connector white/yellow wire in the connector reads 5v, and the gauge appears to be working because I did the dash gauge test operation (press and hold the mileage button while turning the key on). Also, my ODB2 tester isn't getting a low oil error code(I dont know if the PCM throws one). Is there a way to test if my sending unit is working? I have heard of brand new electrical parts not working.:confused:
ZJ overheating query.
Yep, I know, nothing new here. Question has been asked before. I've searched, I've looked and I'm still puzzled!
Purchased a "new" '97 ZJ recently. Low mileage for Australia; 185,000 kms or about 115,000 miles. Quickly put another 5000 miles on it, no problems. All of a sudden, it started dumping all the water out of the over flow tank. You stop, a few minutes later, the flood begins. Being a pessimist, I headed for the local service station where they attached a device full of blue solution to the radiator filler. It stayed blue, so they reckon it's not a head gasket.
I pulled the thermostat out, stuck it in a saucepan full of water with a thermometer and a new thermostat. Both start to open at 195°F.
I've pulled the radiator out, and whilst I haven't pulled the tanks off, it looks very clean and new. I've taken the water pump off, same story. Both look like they've been recently replaced (Hmmm?). The fan, when hot, feels about right.
The coolant that came out seemed a happy green colour, no traces of oil or anything. The problem seems to be associated to the temperature of the day, worse in the middle of the day. Doesn't seem severe travelling at speed but the gauge goes up if you stop and sit idling after driving. My only remaining thought is a cracked head, only opens at the right temperature, but surely it would cause problems during high speed driving, which is quite high load for the engine?
Purchased a "new" '97 ZJ recently. Low mileage for Australia; 185,000 kms or about 115,000 miles. Quickly put another 5000 miles on it, no problems. All of a sudden, it started dumping all the water out of the over flow tank. You stop, a few minutes later, the flood begins. Being a pessimist, I headed for the local service station where they attached a device full of blue solution to the radiator filler. It stayed blue, so they reckon it's not a head gasket.
I pulled the thermostat out, stuck it in a saucepan full of water with a thermometer and a new thermostat. Both start to open at 195°F.
I've pulled the radiator out, and whilst I haven't pulled the tanks off, it looks very clean and new. I've taken the water pump off, same story. Both look like they've been recently replaced (Hmmm?). The fan, when hot, feels about right.
The coolant that came out seemed a happy green colour, no traces of oil or anything. The problem seems to be associated to the temperature of the day, worse in the middle of the day. Doesn't seem severe travelling at speed but the gauge goes up if you stop and sit idling after driving. My only remaining thought is a cracked head, only opens at the right temperature, but surely it would cause problems during high speed driving, which is quite high load for the engine?
LED taillight retrofit
who is familiar with building these from scratch? my main concern is 1-reducing to the correct amperage to avoid blowing up the LEDs, and 2. preven the blinker from goin at crazy speeds. IIRC i need a resistor of some sort? its been a while since i've done anything with LEDs, so i honestly am kinda going in blind. i know how to mount them an everything, but wiring them properly, i'd like some input from someone with more knowledge.
basically i want to use these, but in the stock housings (not a fan of the clear/smoke look)and my taillight sockets keep crapping out (even with a glob of solder and bending/shimming the contacts)
basically i want to use these, but in the stock housings (not a fan of the clear/smoke look)and my taillight sockets keep crapping out (even with a glob of solder and bending/shimming the contacts)
Check engine light
I've had my CEL on for a while now but emissions are coming up pretty soon so I need to fix it. I can't remember if it's p0456 or p0442 or even both. Pretty sure it's p0456 but I had it when I first got my jeep a while ago and was told it was a faulty gas cap. I replaced the gas cap and it worked great for a while. I got a cps code about a month ago and along with it the p0456 code came back. I already replaced the gas cap. Should I try replacing it again? Something that might help is whenever I fill up on gas the gas nozzle(at any gas station) stops a couple seconds after it starts filling. I have to keep pressing it down and it will stop again(as if the tank is full). It will work if I pull the nozzle half way out and continue. Any help is appreciated and I'll go double check which code it is tomorrow.
Sent from my Tj
Sent from my Tj
North Star Jeep Club Open House
The North Star Jeep Club will be having an Open House at the Iron Rock Offroad facility in Shakopee, MN on October 26th from Noon to 4pm. It's a chance for you stop by, have a bite to eat and meet the guys in the club. You can check out our website at http://ift.tt/1DLxaY2 or look us up on Facebook.:cheers2:
Got a Wrangler today!
samedi 27 septembre 2014
Going Wednesday to hand over the cash.
4.0L 5spd and a bunch of goodies for 5500. I think I got a steal.
Needs a new soft top and tires ASAP
9500lb winch that needs to be wired. Had On Board Air, supposedly getting the compressor for it since it was taken out from the undercarriage. Other than that I should be in good standing and just need to fix a few things before she is ready to be off road capable again.
Melty motor mount
Turns out that coralman was probably right to put some heat shield material on his motor mount. No cracks in my header; that's just radiant heat. It's not too bad now so I'l just going to keep an eye on it. It's just a month or two old.
Clutch issues?
Earlier this week I was forced to stop driving the jeep. It was getting hard to change gears when shifting. So in the driveway i noticed the clutch pedal had some looseness in it. Put a spring on it to remove the extra play in it. Attempted a test ride only to discover the clutch wasn't completely engaged? because of the shaking on the stick and the noise[clunking and banging]. I greased the shaft and it made no difference. Do I need to make the adjuster by the fork longer or shorter to fix this?
Oil Pressure Gauge drops at Idle
So, I've done a little research and from what I have found, when the Oil Pressure gauge is dropping it is more than likely the sending unit. I am just wanting to double check the information for my particular symptoms.
Oil pressure is fine while on the throttle, however, as soon as the RPM drop to around idle speed, the oil gauge drops to "0." There is no change in engine sound when this occurs.
This is on an 04 4.7 with about 96 000 miles.
Oil pressure is fine while on the throttle, however, as soon as the RPM drop to around idle speed, the oil gauge drops to "0." There is no change in engine sound when this occurs.
This is on an 04 4.7 with about 96 000 miles.
how to remove rear bumper
I'm trying to get rear bumper off so I can take the factor hitch off to mod for a larger spare. I can't figure out what the last fastener(s) are that I need to remove to get the bumper off. I've already removed the three plastic rivets in each rear wheel well, torx head screw by each tail light, and four plastic rivets along the bottom of the bumper. It seems like there is still something holding it on near the tail lights, but I can't figure out what/where exactly it is. Anyone have a picture showing where all the fasteners are that have to be removed?
Fitting 16" Silver Rubicon wheels on YJ
I have a 91 YJ with the Renegade package that has 35x12.50X15 BFG Mud-Terrains. I really like the look of the silver 16" 5 spoke rubicon wheels. I'm thinking about purchasing a set and was wondering if anyone else has done this before with a YJ. If so, has there been any problems with clearance since the rubicons have a different suspension set up (coil springs) compared to the YJs (leaf springs).
Any input would be great. Thanks!
Any input would be great. Thanks!
Selling a 1990 YJ
Asking 7k OBO
Also just purchased and am in the process of installing some Rubicon Express leaves, all new poly bushings (12), 5" Boomerang shackles, and new u bolts.
1990 Jeep Wrangler YJ. 2.5l 5 speed 4x4 4.10 gears. This has been a great vehicle and project, but it's time to move on. This vehicle wheels great in its current state and has never let me down. It would be a great daily/ weekend wheeler or an awesome base for a rock crawler project. Tons of new parts, I always used top quality parts, I have a complete list of all the maintenance done on it for the last 5 years. I also have receipts on lots and lots of parts too. Tons and tons of money invested. I'm sure I'm forgetting some things as I have put a lot into it.
The specs are as follows. 113k miles on whole package, motor was rebuilt at 89k. New wiring harness and fuse block, distributor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel sending unit, fuel relays, fan clutch, exhaust manifold, clutch was just bled (which was replaced 2 years ago), starter. Thermostat in box not installed (doesn't need it right now).
Drivetrain: New yoke on rear driveshaft and tcase front output, all new spicer greaseable u joints all around. Timken unit bearings. Posi4x4 mechanical to replace vacuum actuator, new shock mounts on rear axle. Have a SOLID diff cover for the HP Dana 30, just haven't gotten to install it yet. Teraflex hand throttle in the box.
Seats are in very good condition, have seat covers on them for the last 8 years. New radio w/ aux input, new front speaker pod and dash speakers. Carpet has been pulled, had plans to bedline it but never got around to it. Family roll bar has been swapped in. Has full doors with good glass. Windshield has no cracks or chips.
33x12.5x15 BF Goodrich KM2s with just over 3,000 miles (just rotated them). Skyjacker suspension lift with Rough Country shocks. Metalcloak modular front bumper with a Superwinch lp8500. Warn Rock Krawler rear bumper with tire carrier and full size matching 33" spare. D ring receiver. Genright rocker gaurds. I have a Uniden CB 510 with a Firestik 4' that I took off to do some work and didn't get around to putting it back on.
I have a uninstalled Ford 8.8 with 4.10 gears, limited slip differential, disc brakes, and with new lug studs, gear oil, Timken pinion seal, SOLID diff cover ECGS ABS delete, ECGS swap kit (not installed). All that needs done is perches and shock mounts welded on. I will sell this axle for an extra $500, if not, I'll use this for the next project.
I am very knowledgeable about my Jeep and I can tell you all about it and it's little quirks (like these old jeeps have). I have tons of pictures but I will only upload a few as only a few are showing the most recent mods. Asking $7,000 and I am in no hurry to sell so don't lowball me. Cash or Check only. I won't take trades unless you have a Jeep you want to trade cash on top (interested in Scramblers, Comanche's, and Flatfenders). I can deliver anywhere in Utah or Southern Idaho/ Wyoming. Serious buyers only don't want tire kickers and don't ask for delivery if you aren't 100% serious about buying it.
Text is best as I work a lot. If you prefer calling call and I probably won't answer but leave a voicemail and I will get back to you at a reasonable hour. 435-890-3020
Also just purchased and am in the process of installing some Rubicon Express leaves, all new poly bushings (12), 5" Boomerang shackles, and new u bolts.
1990 Jeep Wrangler YJ. 2.5l 5 speed 4x4 4.10 gears. This has been a great vehicle and project, but it's time to move on. This vehicle wheels great in its current state and has never let me down. It would be a great daily/ weekend wheeler or an awesome base for a rock crawler project. Tons of new parts, I always used top quality parts, I have a complete list of all the maintenance done on it for the last 5 years. I also have receipts on lots and lots of parts too. Tons and tons of money invested. I'm sure I'm forgetting some things as I have put a lot into it.
The specs are as follows. 113k miles on whole package, motor was rebuilt at 89k. New wiring harness and fuse block, distributor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel sending unit, fuel relays, fan clutch, exhaust manifold, clutch was just bled (which was replaced 2 years ago), starter. Thermostat in box not installed (doesn't need it right now).
Drivetrain: New yoke on rear driveshaft and tcase front output, all new spicer greaseable u joints all around. Timken unit bearings. Posi4x4 mechanical to replace vacuum actuator, new shock mounts on rear axle. Have a SOLID diff cover for the HP Dana 30, just haven't gotten to install it yet. Teraflex hand throttle in the box.
Seats are in very good condition, have seat covers on them for the last 8 years. New radio w/ aux input, new front speaker pod and dash speakers. Carpet has been pulled, had plans to bedline it but never got around to it. Family roll bar has been swapped in. Has full doors with good glass. Windshield has no cracks or chips.
33x12.5x15 BF Goodrich KM2s with just over 3,000 miles (just rotated them). Skyjacker suspension lift with Rough Country shocks. Metalcloak modular front bumper with a Superwinch lp8500. Warn Rock Krawler rear bumper with tire carrier and full size matching 33" spare. D ring receiver. Genright rocker gaurds. I have a Uniden CB 510 with a Firestik 4' that I took off to do some work and didn't get around to putting it back on.
I have a uninstalled Ford 8.8 with 4.10 gears, limited slip differential, disc brakes, and with new lug studs, gear oil, Timken pinion seal, SOLID diff cover ECGS ABS delete, ECGS swap kit (not installed). All that needs done is perches and shock mounts welded on. I will sell this axle for an extra $500, if not, I'll use this for the next project.
I am very knowledgeable about my Jeep and I can tell you all about it and it's little quirks (like these old jeeps have). I have tons of pictures but I will only upload a few as only a few are showing the most recent mods. Asking $7,000 and I am in no hurry to sell so don't lowball me. Cash or Check only. I won't take trades unless you have a Jeep you want to trade cash on top (interested in Scramblers, Comanche's, and Flatfenders). I can deliver anywhere in Utah or Southern Idaho/ Wyoming. Serious buyers only don't want tire kickers and don't ask for delivery if you aren't 100% serious about buying it.
Text is best as I work a lot. If you prefer calling call and I probably won't answer but leave a voicemail and I will get back to you at a reasonable hour. 435-890-3020
New TJ PCM?
Hey guys, long story short... I'm thinking about replacing my PCM in my 97 4.0 manual... How do I get a computer that I know will work? What years will just plug right in? Do I have to make sure I get a 4.0 manual 97 PCM or will others work? Do I have to go to the dealer? Anyone dine this? Thanks guys!
I was an A-Hole today.
vendredi 26 septembre 2014
Driving my old worn out 4 banger today. A Tahoo or whatever GMC POS pulled out in front of me. i slowed down and kept behind him. He started doing brake checks. WTH. You pulled out in front of me. We got to a 4 lane. I pulled up along side. Looked like a couple rejects from Honey Boo Boo because they were too redneck. I did the universal roll down the window gesture. Passenger finally figured it out. And. Got the window down. In the mean while the driver flipped me off. I hollered "Your brake lights are working good!"
Passenger looked at driver. I repeated "Your brake lights are working good." Gave them a thumbs up. I bet they still wondering about that.
Passenger looked at driver. I repeated "Your brake lights are working good." Gave them a thumbs up. I bet they still wondering about that.
Suprising Characteristic of the JKUR
I've owned the Jeep now for only three months and I have to say that this thing is excellent driving around downtown Austin. Its like the perfect urban vehicle. I see people driving in smart cars, Priuses and pickups and I have to say that the Jeep is more at home in the downtown setting than most of the other cars I see.
1) Potholes and curbs and un even surfaces in a busy downtown? no problem in a Wrangler Unlimited. Bumps that would make BMW head to an alignment shop are no problem
2) Parking is easy. The Jeep has the same foot print as a mid size car like a Nissan Altima, but it turns like a goat and maneuvers in tight spaces easily
3) Protected. The stock bumpers can be impacted by the occasional parking lot kiss from another car and it doesn't really mater. The plastic fenders and factory Rubicon rock slider seem to intercept other car doors before impact on the body. The other choice would have been the Grand Cherokee Summit with the Eco-diesel, but I'm pretty sure it would have already had a few dings in it.
4) Room to get out. Because the doors are stubby on the Jeep, if you have to fit into a tight parking spot in a garage or parking lot, the doors can easily open enough to get out. My mazdaspeed3 needed more space between it and the next car over or you were stuck inside your car.
5) Vision. In the new JKUR I sit high up like I do in my pickup, but the Jeep is far more maneuverable than my big diesel. It also has a more commanding view than the crossovers I've driven because of their sloped windshields. I think I am less likely to get into a wreck as I am more likely to see what is going to happen earlier than other vehicles.
6) Security Doesn't suck with the hardtop. I can park my Jeep and not worry that it will get broken into any more than a regular car.
7) Tailgate doesn't suck on the hard top. The Jeeps I owned before all had soft tops and accessing the tail gate was a Pain in the but. On the CJ you had to swing the tire carrier out, then unfasten then drop the tailgate. On the TJ you had to hold the tail gate open on an incline and it was a bit shorter than the JK. The JK on the other hand is really convenient to put five or six bags of groceries in without opening the top hatch. It also sticks in position if you have more than one or two bags to load. I have to say that I like it more than the hatch style single door.
--Just some observations from a new owner. If you are considering a Jeep and live in an urban environment I think its a pretty good fit. I don't think I would want to commute long distances in it over fast highways everyday, but for stop and go traffic in an urban setting its not a bad vehicle. For the nice weather we had today I popped the freedom panels off and cranked the stereo. Traffic didn't seem so bad.
4)
1) Potholes and curbs and un even surfaces in a busy downtown? no problem in a Wrangler Unlimited. Bumps that would make BMW head to an alignment shop are no problem
2) Parking is easy. The Jeep has the same foot print as a mid size car like a Nissan Altima, but it turns like a goat and maneuvers in tight spaces easily
3) Protected. The stock bumpers can be impacted by the occasional parking lot kiss from another car and it doesn't really mater. The plastic fenders and factory Rubicon rock slider seem to intercept other car doors before impact on the body. The other choice would have been the Grand Cherokee Summit with the Eco-diesel, but I'm pretty sure it would have already had a few dings in it.
4) Room to get out. Because the doors are stubby on the Jeep, if you have to fit into a tight parking spot in a garage or parking lot, the doors can easily open enough to get out. My mazdaspeed3 needed more space between it and the next car over or you were stuck inside your car.
5) Vision. In the new JKUR I sit high up like I do in my pickup, but the Jeep is far more maneuverable than my big diesel. It also has a more commanding view than the crossovers I've driven because of their sloped windshields. I think I am less likely to get into a wreck as I am more likely to see what is going to happen earlier than other vehicles.
6) Security Doesn't suck with the hardtop. I can park my Jeep and not worry that it will get broken into any more than a regular car.
7) Tailgate doesn't suck on the hard top. The Jeeps I owned before all had soft tops and accessing the tail gate was a Pain in the but. On the CJ you had to swing the tire carrier out, then unfasten then drop the tailgate. On the TJ you had to hold the tail gate open on an incline and it was a bit shorter than the JK. The JK on the other hand is really convenient to put five or six bags of groceries in without opening the top hatch. It also sticks in position if you have more than one or two bags to load. I have to say that I like it more than the hatch style single door.
--Just some observations from a new owner. If you are considering a Jeep and live in an urban environment I think its a pretty good fit. I don't think I would want to commute long distances in it over fast highways everyday, but for stop and go traffic in an urban setting its not a bad vehicle. For the nice weather we had today I popped the freedom panels off and cranked the stereo. Traffic didn't seem so bad.
4)
Has anyone played around with the front axel of their YJ?
I'm new to doing work to the extent of bearings and axels. I took the wheels off for entire brake line system replacement and noticed that my front driver's bearing seemed loose. OK, so that would tell one that the bearing needs to be replaced correct? I did my research, bought the part, seems pretty easy and straight fwd. BUT, if the axel shaft also wobbles, does that mean that there is something internal that has gone bad, or does that happen when a bearing goes bad?
I'm trying to get an idea on what I'm getting into if it turns to be something with the axel, since I have ZERO experience with this. I know the 4x4 doesn't work also currently. The shaft spins when engaged but the wheels don't. I've found some info on that issue but haven't been able to find much on what to do with the axel. Could this be linked to the 4x4 issue?
I would really appreciate any pointers if someone could help a newbie out!
I'm trying to get an idea on what I'm getting into if it turns to be something with the axel, since I have ZERO experience with this. I know the 4x4 doesn't work also currently. The shaft spins when engaged but the wheels don't. I've found some info on that issue but haven't been able to find much on what to do with the axel. Could this be linked to the 4x4 issue?
I would really appreciate any pointers if someone could help a newbie out!
99TJ - Headlights (LED)??
So I have a 99' TJ that currently has HID lights. The wires inside the bulbs have separated and they no longer work correctly. High beam on one....low beam on the other.
Thinking of upgrading to the new 7" LED drop in replacements - Quadratec had three different designs - obviously driven by three different prices.
Any thoughts on which are better - is it WORTH the money to get the expensive set??? Sometimes more money is just more money - not necessarily better.
Any thoughts???
Paul
Thinking of upgrading to the new 7" LED drop in replacements - Quadratec had three different designs - obviously driven by three different prices.
Any thoughts on which are better - is it WORTH the money to get the expensive set??? Sometimes more money is just more money - not necessarily better.
Any thoughts???
Paul
kl floor mats
Anyone need a set of carpet oem floor mats? I have a set for sale in the classifieds. Looking for $50 shipped. Need these gone.
The shovel thread
As the title says, I would like this thread to be the one stop for all shovel information. So feel free to share your experience, positive or negative when it comes to different models or mounting locations.
So far, I have only mounted a cheap 27" Yardworks shovel to the spare tire. I only mount it with a bungee when I go wheeling. It's come in handy a couple times and has not fallen of so far.
But lately I have been looking at compact models that can offer more versatility. Those that have peeked my interest include the Cold Steel Special Forces, the WJQ-308, the Crovel, the M48 Commando and the Marble's Devil's Tail shovel.
So far, I have only mounted a cheap 27" Yardworks shovel to the spare tire. I only mount it with a bungee when I go wheeling. It's come in handy a couple times and has not fallen of so far.
But lately I have been looking at compact models that can offer more versatility. Those that have peeked my interest include the Cold Steel Special Forces, the WJQ-308, the Crovel, the M48 Commando and the Marble's Devil's Tail shovel.
kl floor mats
Anyone need a set of carpet oem floor mats? I have a set for sale in the classifieds. Looking for $50 shipped. Need these gone.
Changing the tranny fluid
I'm going to be changing out the tranny fluid this weekend. There are 196,218mi on the jeep and I know nothing about the age of the fluid. I have read several posts and would like some input. I was going to put 10w-30 in it but trying to determine Syn or Conv. Is there a pro/con of each? Is the Syn better than Conv and why?
1997 Wrangler
2.5L
5 speed manual
Thanks for your time
1997 Wrangler
2.5L
5 speed manual
Thanks for your time
Dash lights/HVAC/interior light colors?
Anyone installed different colored interior/dash lights in their rigs? Was considering installing blue gauge cluster/HVAC and interior lights.
Who sells exact reproduction of oil and battery gauges?
Who sells the closest to oem gauges for a 1986 Jeep CJ7?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Would this lift set up be weird?
RE 4" leafs in the rear, Rancho 44044 front, Bilstein shocks.
Or just RE all the way around? If I go 44044, would I need the stock PA or stay with the Drop? At the same time I'm getting a new Drag/Tie set up but still up in the air on which to go with. So is Rusty's set up good to go with? JCR? OR any others?
Thanks!
Or just RE all the way around? If I go 44044, would I need the stock PA or stay with the Drop? At the same time I'm getting a new Drag/Tie set up but still up in the air on which to go with. So is Rusty's set up good to go with? JCR? OR any others?
Thanks!
Yet another Post Nutter Wire Removal ?
Ok, so I am in the last phase of wire removal but I stopped at this point to confirm I can safely remove the remaining wires.
The first is an enclosed PCB that had a pink/black wire running to the MCU and the same color wire running to the connector in the second pic The other wires Orange & Brown run to the connector as well.
The connector in the second pic runs into the "main loom" but I have not traced them back as of yet.
My question is what is the PCB for, can I remove it and is the connector needed for any essential operation.
Thank you in advance for any and all information.
Peace
The first is an enclosed PCB that had a pink/black wire running to the MCU and the same color wire running to the connector in the second pic The other wires Orange & Brown run to the connector as well.
The connector in the second pic runs into the "main loom" but I have not traced them back as of yet.
My question is what is the PCB for, can I remove it and is the connector needed for any essential operation.
Thank you in advance for any and all information.
Peace
Jeep RBK radio
I have my RBK radio for sale from my WJ. Just replaced it with a Pioneer headunit. Nothing wrong with it and works as it should.
Price: $30 plus shipping
Most of the RBK's on ebay go for $50-60 and there's one on Jeepforum right now going for $40. So I figured $30 + shipping is fair.
Price: $30 plus shipping
Most of the RBK's on ebay go for $50-60 and there's one on Jeepforum right now going for $40. So I figured $30 + shipping is fair.
Steering wheel lock-temp solution?
I recently got a 2001 XJ, and pursuant to Maryland laws, I'm trying to get it to pass safety inspection so I can actually drive it. (By the way, did you know that a peeling/loose steering wheel COVER is a failure? So is the gear shift indicator LCD panel.)
Anyway, the last issue I have yet to solve is that the steering wheel binds (worse at full lock, but still pretty tight at all radii). There is a 3" pro-comp lift with p265 70r16's on it. I already decreased the lock position with a washer on each side to stop the rubbing. I plan to replace a bunch of the front end eventually, but if possible I'd like to get it to pass so that I can do that on my own time.
Is there any temporary quick-fix that can help? I only need it to work for a day before I park it in my garage and start wrenching. I think the 'official' test is to take the car to a full turn, let go of the wheel, and it should return to center.
Anyway, the last issue I have yet to solve is that the steering wheel binds (worse at full lock, but still pretty tight at all radii). There is a 3" pro-comp lift with p265 70r16's on it. I already decreased the lock position with a washer on each side to stop the rubbing. I plan to replace a bunch of the front end eventually, but if possible I'd like to get it to pass so that I can do that on my own time.
Is there any temporary quick-fix that can help? I only need it to work for a day before I park it in my garage and start wrenching. I think the 'official' test is to take the car to a full turn, let go of the wheel, and it should return to center.
HELP Im losing my mind over here
Last year I was misfiring on highway in multiple cylinders. Got so bad that jeep would jump and shudder and throttle would have no effect on forward motion. This would happen intermittently. Sometimes I could drive it 70 miles round trip to work with no issues.
It sat for a year before I decided to make it a daily driver again. Changed the plugs. Checked fuel pressure. Changed Crankshaft POS Sensor (autozone) And it ran good for about a week before it started happening again. Now its so bad that even when idling it misses and backfires.
Please somebody help im losing my mind and this car is to become my girlfriends DD. I lifted it and put 600 bucks into tires the week it was running well thinking the CPS did the job.
Any ideas?!
It sat for a year before I decided to make it a daily driver again. Changed the plugs. Checked fuel pressure. Changed Crankshaft POS Sensor (autozone) And it ran good for about a week before it started happening again. Now its so bad that even when idling it misses and backfires.
Please somebody help im losing my mind and this car is to become my girlfriends DD. I lifted it and put 600 bucks into tires the week it was running well thinking the CPS did the job.
Any ideas?!
P302
mercredi 24 septembre 2014
have a p302 code showing up and a really loud clicking from the engine as well as a lot of shaking when idle and accelerating. i've changed spark plugs and coils and put injector cleaner in. still nothing has changed. Anyone have a clue what it could be? or what my next step would be? thanks!
Floor mats and window roll
Catch all xtreme rubber floor mats and Clover patch soft top window roll.
Both in VGC.
Located in NC
$100 OBO
Both in VGC.
Located in NC
$100 OBO
Asking for help pricing my '93 Cherokee XJ for sale
To be clear, I am NOT attempting to use forum thread as a back-door way to sell my Jeep. I just really need some guidance in correctly pricing my Jeep before posting it for sale in my local Atlanta Craigslist.
Hello to everyone. Long time lurker but first time poster. Thanks to everyone who actively participates in these forums- you all have helped me keep two Jeeps going... a '93 Cherokee and an '08 Patriot.
Okay, so it's time to sell my Cherokee but I'm very unsure of what ask price I should start with, or after some negotiations what price range to accept that is fair to both the buyer and myself. I should note that I am a female, so I also expect some potential buyers to try to take advantage of that during negotiations. Below is a link to a personal website I set up that has a lot of information about the Jeep and some pictures. I am still working on the site- I know I need to add more pictures, but if you think I'm lacking in other information let me know.
http://ift.tt/1uZVOQs
KBB and NADA doesn't have information for th '93 model year. All I have to go on for pricing is what my USAA auto insurance inspector/adjuster told me a couple weeks ago. For context (and explained in detail at the web page above) the Jeep was briefly stolen as a decoy vehicle in order to go steal another vehicle two streets over from my home. The window and steering column were busted. Since I have comprehensive on the Jeep, insurance sent a guy out to look over the vehicle to determine whether the total cost of repairs ($945) would meet or exceed 70% of the Jeep's value. If 70% or over, they would have totaled the Jeep. However, he determined the $945 repair costs to be under 70% so the Jeep was repaired.
He was not allowed to tell me the exact number of what the determined value of my Jeep was, but he did tell me it was somewhere in the range of $1,500 to $2,000 based on his inspection, age/condition/mileage and their database/information sources. So it seems the Jeep is worth no less than $1,350.00 (945 is 69.99% of 1,350) but probably more since he gave a $1,500.00 to $2,000.00 valuation range. However, I feel like asking $1500-$2000 for a 21 year old vehicle with 255k miles is too high. But then again he saw the Jeep in the same condition a potential buyer would see it now, minus of course the then-broken (but now repaired) window and steering column.
I really don't know where to be on the price and hope some of you could help me. I will be selling in Atlanta, Georgia, but will also be posting a Craigslist ads in other Georgia areas like Athens, Augusta, Columbus, and Macon.
http://ift.tt/1uZVOQs
Thank you in advance!
Hello to everyone. Long time lurker but first time poster. Thanks to everyone who actively participates in these forums- you all have helped me keep two Jeeps going... a '93 Cherokee and an '08 Patriot.
Okay, so it's time to sell my Cherokee but I'm very unsure of what ask price I should start with, or after some negotiations what price range to accept that is fair to both the buyer and myself. I should note that I am a female, so I also expect some potential buyers to try to take advantage of that during negotiations. Below is a link to a personal website I set up that has a lot of information about the Jeep and some pictures. I am still working on the site- I know I need to add more pictures, but if you think I'm lacking in other information let me know.
http://ift.tt/1uZVOQs
KBB and NADA doesn't have information for th '93 model year. All I have to go on for pricing is what my USAA auto insurance inspector/adjuster told me a couple weeks ago. For context (and explained in detail at the web page above) the Jeep was briefly stolen as a decoy vehicle in order to go steal another vehicle two streets over from my home. The window and steering column were busted. Since I have comprehensive on the Jeep, insurance sent a guy out to look over the vehicle to determine whether the total cost of repairs ($945) would meet or exceed 70% of the Jeep's value. If 70% or over, they would have totaled the Jeep. However, he determined the $945 repair costs to be under 70% so the Jeep was repaired.
He was not allowed to tell me the exact number of what the determined value of my Jeep was, but he did tell me it was somewhere in the range of $1,500 to $2,000 based on his inspection, age/condition/mileage and their database/information sources. So it seems the Jeep is worth no less than $1,350.00 (945 is 69.99% of 1,350) but probably more since he gave a $1,500.00 to $2,000.00 valuation range. However, I feel like asking $1500-$2000 for a 21 year old vehicle with 255k miles is too high. But then again he saw the Jeep in the same condition a potential buyer would see it now, minus of course the then-broken (but now repaired) window and steering column.
I really don't know where to be on the price and hope some of you could help me. I will be selling in Atlanta, Georgia, but will also be posting a Craigslist ads in other Georgia areas like Athens, Augusta, Columbus, and Macon.
http://ift.tt/1uZVOQs
Thank you in advance!
Resonator cross section
I'm needing someone to cut the stock resonator open and post pictures. Thanks.
05 Grand Cherokee. new starter, still won't start
I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.7 Hemi and 4wd. Yesterday morning, while leaving work it wouldn't start. I got a boost and it started fine. Drove fine on the way home. Not even an hour after I get home, I go to start it again to run to Autozone and it just makes a click, click, click sound. Father-n-law came and gave me a boost and it started fine. I go to autozone for them to test my battery, alternator, and starter and all passed. So I decided to take it to my buddy's garage. He checks everything and it passed again. But he said it was probably my starter going bad. I went and bought a new starter and he installed it for me (not an easy job). Now the jeep does nothing. It makes no noises. We tried boosting it off again and nothing. Does anyone know what could be going on? Sorry if this is long. Thanks.
Slip Yoke Question
So I've decided on the Rustys 4.5in long arm kit for my jeep. I have the NP242 and I don't really feel comfortable with the hack and tap for the t - case. While looking at the lift I found Rustys also sells a "long travel slip yoke". Has anyone had any experience with this? Or should I just save money and switch over to a 231 t case and get a SYE?
Getting vehicle build data with chassis number
Is it possible to get vehicle build data with only the chassis number of a CJ-5 (claimed to be a 1967) that I am thinking of buying? What websites could I check? I have no access to any other useful info to get this data on this Jeep. The chassis number is 8305228066.
2008 many errors on cold engine
mardi 23 septembre 2014
Every morning service parking sensor, transsmision overheating, service 4x4 system errors are on. When i do start an engine it stops because of the "overheating". After 5min everything fixes itself. Where to look for the problem and the solution? Thanks
CJ parking brake pedal
parking brake pedal out of my 78 CJ7. works with no issues.
$25 shipped to lower 48
$25 shipped to lower 48
Rea gate issues
I have a four door rubicon and the "strap" on the rear gate has broken three times (strap is the term jeep uses for the part that dampens the rear gate when it opens). My feeling is the spare tire on the gate is just too much weight for this. Does anybody know of some alternate fix for this problem. Replacing the broken part just does not work. thanks in advance. the year on the jeep is 2013.
Ringing noise
I have 2014 cheroker North 3.2L. When ever the vehicle is on (running or auxiliary) there is a constant ringing noise. You can't hear it from inside the vehicle very easily. But very noticeable when outside the vehicle. I have not been able to trace the sound it is so high pitched it sounds like its everywhere.
Lift Kits
I know there are probably a ton of lift kit threads on here but I figured id start another one. What are some good lift kits anywhere from 3" and up for the 2014?
Hood Cowl Seal
Anyone have an alternate for this seal? Mine is about done! This is the seal between the hood and the cowl plate cover, not the windshield cowl seal.
I've looked about, but everyone wants 36 to 45 bucks for this stupid seal.
Most local parts store don't really carry these type of shape seals. So If anyone has and alternate that would be great. I just don't see paying almost 50 bucks for a simple seal.:thumbdown:
I've looked about, but everyone wants 36 to 45 bucks for this stupid seal.
Most local parts store don't really carry these type of shape seals. So If anyone has and alternate that would be great. I just don't see paying almost 50 bucks for a simple seal.:thumbdown:
New owner, cj7 looking for part catalogs and sites
Need to cj's but not jeeps. Just bought an 84 cj 7. It originally had a 258 with t4 and now has 304 with t5. Looking for if any diagrams of the conversion of the 258 to 304 wire and hose wise. Also I don't need the emission system in ny so id like to pull that out if anyone had schematic.
I now I need a e brake cable, it's frozen. Just so I can drive her. My first intentions are to just drive her and then make a list of her needs.
Thanks in advanced nick
I now I need a e brake cable, it's frozen. Just so I can drive her. My first intentions are to just drive her and then make a list of her needs.
Thanks in advanced nick
High Mileage Oil Question
Recently bought a '95 Cherokee 4.0L with 193,000 miles in good shape (no leaks). It was time for an oil change and not knowing the previous owners oil fill routine I mixed up a "Frankenbrew" for the next oil fill : 4 qrts. of Rotella Triple T conventional 15W40 , 1 qrt. of Peak synthetic dexos 1 approved 5W30 and 1 qrt. of Marvel Mystery Oil (for additional cleaning) . Safe to say this blend was a high detergent oil fill which perhaps did too good of a job of cleaning as now after one week of driving on the new oil - I have front and rear seal leaks (where as before I had zero) . Note to self : "Should have left well enough alone and simply re-filled with Pennzoil 10W30 yellow bottle conventional oil" ... So my question now is if I switch out this oil fill early - should I refill with Pennzoil 10W30 yellow bottle OR refill with Pennzoil 10W30 High Mileage oil ? My goal is to nip this new leaking in the bud and over time reverse my mistake ... Thanks in advance for your replies .
WK lift parts
ive recently taken my WK back to stock as much as i would like it to be... so i have the following parts up for sale.
- OEM 4.7 WK front springs $20
- OEM XK rear coils $50/BO (good for 1.5" of lift on a WK)
- front 4600 bilsteins $100/BO
- Daystar BB front/rear spacers $80/BO
located in baltimore, md. willing to meet within reason to get these unloaded. PM ME any offers, as everything is negotiable.
- OEM 4.7 WK front springs $20
- OEM XK rear coils $50/BO (good for 1.5" of lift on a WK)
- front 4600 bilsteins $100/BO
- Daystar BB front/rear spacers $80/BO
located in baltimore, md. willing to meet within reason to get these unloaded. PM ME any offers, as everything is negotiable.
To change the tranny fluid or not?
As some will know from my many posts on the N23 shocker, I have an O6 Overland CRD with 55k mi on the clock. The very occasional light thud when accelerating but nothing I am worried about in the box. Should I change the tranny fluid for preventative maintenance, or just leave it in there. How many here have changed it?
wrangler peugeot transmission
lundi 22 septembre 2014
Any one know how much I can expect to pay for a used wrangler peugeot transmission? Someone suggested I put a different transmission in. Can I do that without redoing everything?
Trailer Wiring
Hi guys, are there instructions somewhere on how to connect a trailer wiring kit to the Jeep electrical system? I would hope it is a DIY job for someone with basic skills in electricity. Thank you,
George
George
Regaining mpg
About a month ago I put 33x12.5R15 general AT2 on my jeep TJ with a 3 inch lift I'm getting 14 MPG. My jeep is a 2001 with a NV3550 and it's geared to 3.73 and normally averaged 20 MPG. Now this is my daily driver so I'd like to get that number as close to 20 as I can and yes I realize it's a jeep not a Prius. I've decided to regear and it sounds like 4.10 or 4.56 is gonna be the best choice. So, my question is would the lower gearing help me out at all as far as fuel mileage and what else would you guys suggest. Oh and this is my first thread so don't tear me up too bad haha.
JK 3.8 Slow to return to idle
I have a nagging issue that I wanted to put out there before i dig too deep. My '08 JK with a 3.8 6-sp is slow to return to idle while shifting and/or coming to a stop. The idle will hang at about 2000 rpm for a second or two then slowly return to idle. I can't reproduce it by just revving the motor up and i only see it when shifting, slowing down or coming to a stop after driving. Once it returns to idle it stays that way unless I resume driving.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Jeep Tweaks at JeepHut
We got them in stock and ready to ship. Give us a call or order online. 706-692-5488
Install of aftermarket alarm help
I have a 2004 jeep grande cherokee and i have installed a aftermarket viper alarm i have everything set up and working but i can not get the doors to lock and unlock i have read that i have to buy a programmer to undo the factory alarm, but unsure if this is true, :confused: i cant find a answer online at all. anybody have info or experience on installing a aftermarket alarm that could help me out thank you in advance
Tailgate Leaking
My wife's 06 WK is leaking water at the top of the tailgate. The rubber boot that protects the wiring harness from the top of the body to the top of the tailgate came apart. I can't find the part number or a replacement. Anybody know it??
Thanks
Thanks
Compass and temperature mirror
Have a mirror with the compass and temp feature. It includes the sensor. It's only a 4 wire hook up. A nice and simple mod. 55.00 shipped 
cylinder block drain plug size and thread pitch
On the driver side there is a drain plug currently missing from the engine. I'm about to put the engine back in, but I need this plug. Any ideas what the size and thread pitch is? So far I tried a 3/8" NPT pipe plug, which is tapered. I can thread it in maybe a 1/2 turn before it binds... So I doubt the thread is right.
Just in case there is confusion, I found lots of threads on the square part, which was 8mm. But not an issue here as the plug is missing :).
Just in case there is confusion, I found lots of threads on the square part, which was 8mm. But not an issue here as the plug is missing :).
A couple issues
dimanche 21 septembre 2014
Ok so i just got my (new to me) jeep about a week ago and so far ive replaced the gas cap (lost the keys in the first two days) repainted the hard top, and cleaned up the doors. The two problems i need to fix sometime soon is my fuel gauge and wipers. Fuel gauge sits on E so i dont really know where to begin with that; ive checked out some other threads on the topic but i dont really speak mechanic so i dont really understand what i need to do to troubleshoot my problem. Wipers dont move at all. Not even fluid comes out when i turn the knob. Previous owner told me she turned them on in a snow storm last year and after that they didnt work. Any info and help would be appreciated. I really wanna fix all these problems first before i start buying stuff i actually WANT for it lol:cheers: Thanks guys
Power window wiring diagram?
Anyone have one? Searched and came up with nothing. Driver's side rear went partially down today and never came back up (or finished going down). Its been slow for awhile. I took the door panel off and tried to pin out the connector to see if power was getting to it. I got 12V when the master switch on the driver's door was switched down. But got nothing in any of them while trying to go up (but not sure which wire to test). Trying to locate a wiring diagram to help troubleshoot the issue. Thanks!
new noises
after saving up some cash in the cookie jar I finally bought and installed new brakes and rotors, 2 in spacers, old man emu hd shocks, all new blistens, and iro trackbar. now I have a clicking noise when I turn the wheel, associated with various clanks, took it to firestone and had it aligned, they said they could only get it toed in, since they didn't have specs on new parts and and thought that the clunks and clanks were the frame flexing is all they could determine. does this sound right? just wondering if they know what they are talking about? or if will settle in???
Gettin' Burned out on the ZJ!
1996 ZJ, 4.0, 4x4 - So... First My ZJ Burned up the PCM. I installed a new Crank Sensor and replaced the PCM with a Used unit and it burned it up. I then replaced the Crank Sensor, Cap & Rotor and Installed a Re-Man PCM and it burned it up. I then Replaced the Alternator and Both O2 Sensors and was able to put over 1,000 miles on it Now, Yay, right? Well, during this1,000 or so Miles it has been Idling High and then Normal and then High and then Normal and so on... Well, now out of nowhere it is stalling on me. Sometime it will just die and other times I can pump the throttle and save it and other times it will almost stall out and then recover on its own. I checked the Fuel Pressure and it stays consistent right about 50psi when it is running and when it stalls. I'm gettin' pretty tired of this thing! Fortunately it is just a toy and not a Daily Driver. Any Ideas of what to do from here? I Cleaned the IAC. I've wiggled all the Vacuum Lines looking for a leak, Jiggled the CPM Connectors. Is there anyone in Southern California that knows this vehicle and would wanna work on it???
Electrical gremlins, turn signals kill motor
92 xj, lotta miles, no electrical mods.
Problem just started, when the jeep is running both the left and right turn signal will shut the jeep down. The blower motor being turned on will also shut the jeep down. No sputtering or coughing, just like turning the key off. Once the signal or blower is turned off the lights come back on within a minute or so. I can hear something that sounds like a relay click behind the dash on the passenger side when it dies.
Anyone have any ideas where to start?
Problem just started, when the jeep is running both the left and right turn signal will shut the jeep down. The blower motor being turned on will also shut the jeep down. No sputtering or coughing, just like turning the key off. Once the signal or blower is turned off the lights come back on within a minute or so. I can hear something that sounds like a relay click behind the dash on the passenger side when it dies.
Anyone have any ideas where to start?
42rle transmission fluid level 2005 wrangler
Just replaced solenoid pack on valve body due to transmission shift clunk and shift solenoid code. When filling transmission I have put 6.5 qt's in so far. At cold I have the level at middle of the hot marks. If I fill to the cold marks transmission won't shift properly. When I check hot idling in neutral I have no fluid on the stick. Should I keep filling until I get fluid on the stick at hot up to the hot marks? This puts me above the hot marks at cold. I ran the jeep previously filled cold above the hot marks. I found out the hard way a couple years ago when taking fluid out to the middle of cold marks and it wouldn't go in gear. Don't understand why the cold marks are off. Could this be due to the motor mount lift of 1 inch affecting the transmission angle and fluid measurement? Stick seems correct when I had the pan off it just touches the indentation in the pan fully inserted.
I can not find the fluid capacity of trans in my manuals anyone know?
It seems to be shifting pretty well now up to 50 mph. I haven't got on freeway yet to check overdrive and I did not do a quick learn on TCM. I disconnected battery during repair and hoping it relearns shift points and pressures. Just want to have the fluid levels exact during that process. Any advice would be appreciated, plan to keep adding fluid at hot in neutral till I get fluid.
Thanks
I can not find the fluid capacity of trans in my manuals anyone know?
It seems to be shifting pretty well now up to 50 mph. I haven't got on freeway yet to check overdrive and I did not do a quick learn on TCM. I disconnected battery during repair and hoping it relearns shift points and pressures. Just want to have the fluid levels exact during that process. Any advice would be appreciated, plan to keep adding fluid at hot in neutral till I get fluid.
Thanks
Jeep LJ parts
Jeep wrangler LJ sunrider soft top. Door surrounds. Tailgate bar. Top is worn but doesn't leak It would make a great spare or trail top.
Common Power or Ground to the Hatch
Yesterday I decided to dig into my intermittent rear wiper issue. Early on, I discovered that the motor would work if you open the hatch a bit. This told me it was either a worn motor that didn't have enough torque turn the wiper arm with the hatch closed or there was a broken wire between the hatch and the body.
I pulled the hatch panel and the upper trim panel and started trying the wiggle test. In wiggling the wires, I must have broken the wire because the motor doesn't work with the door anywhere.
I also noticed the high mount stop light and the license plate light didn't work. I've checked the stub harness for both and the harnesses/plugs/bulbs are good. I've also checked for continuity between the 3 wires that come from the at the bulkhead plug and the wiper motor. All 3 are good.
What makes me think it's a common ground is that the wiper plug has a 4th wire that doesn't come from the body. I've tried grounding this wire to the body and have not had any luck. I'm not sure if I didn't have a good grounding spot or not.
I can't find the wiring diagram in my FSM and don't want to blindly try to start splicing wires. I also found the bulkhead connector with about 2 feet of wire on both sides. So I can replace the whole thing if I have too. But I don't want to replace the whole thing for one bad wire.
I can't find anything where this is a common issue or anything.
I pulled the hatch panel and the upper trim panel and started trying the wiggle test. In wiggling the wires, I must have broken the wire because the motor doesn't work with the door anywhere.
I also noticed the high mount stop light and the license plate light didn't work. I've checked the stub harness for both and the harnesses/plugs/bulbs are good. I've also checked for continuity between the 3 wires that come from the at the bulkhead plug and the wiper motor. All 3 are good.
What makes me think it's a common ground is that the wiper plug has a 4th wire that doesn't come from the body. I've tried grounding this wire to the body and have not had any luck. I'm not sure if I didn't have a good grounding spot or not.
I can't find the wiring diagram in my FSM and don't want to blindly try to start splicing wires. I also found the bulkhead connector with about 2 feet of wire on both sides. So I can replace the whole thing if I have too. But I don't want to replace the whole thing for one bad wire.
I can't find anything where this is a common issue or anything.
UK Jeeple, what and where do you get your fluids?
Fellow UK WJ owners! I'm wondering where you shop & if you use dealerships to order your (Jeep/Chrysler) oils/fluids/filters, or if you perhaps use a cheaper (Halfords) or other more premium type alternatives?
Upcountry springs + Bilstein 5125?
samedi 20 septembre 2014
03 Overland
I do have OME HD springs Bilstein 5100/5125 shockers but I don't want to put them on until I replace worn parts/bushings.
Today I was replacing the coil isolators and noticed I have Upcountry rear coils. Can I install the Bilstein 5125 shocks?
Rear coils still have the part number attached ( 52088404 ) and are only an inch shorter than the OME HD.
I do have OME HD springs Bilstein 5100/5125 shockers but I don't want to put them on until I replace worn parts/bushings.
Today I was replacing the coil isolators and noticed I have Upcountry rear coils. Can I install the Bilstein 5125 shocks?
Rear coils still have the part number attached ( 52088404 ) and are only an inch shorter than the OME HD.
Grinding In Console Area While Braking
I searched the forum and the web and have see this mentioned however the culprit if it was found was never posted. A month or so ago i noticed (may have been doing it slightly for a while and i just assumed something was sliding in the console or glove box) this grinding sound coming from my console/ash tray area that almost reminds me of an old speedometer cable that needs to be lubes or something. It doesn't occur under normal light braking however if i use moderate braking i hear it. It is not my brakes and it cannot be heard outside of the vehicle. Before i start taking the console out does anyone have any idea as to what could be causing this. I know it is not anything in my heating and air ducts.
Jeep owner with a dodge dakota question. I know, its weird...
So I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota that I replaced brake pads and rotors on about 6 months ago. A couple months after I noticed a slight squeak when I go over a bump. It's constantly gotten worse until i drove it tonight. It squeaks loudly when I go over even the slightest bump. I know it's something with the brakes because the squeak lessens when I step on the brakes. I even took them off and reapplied brake grease on everything I could think of. It's embarrassing to even drive the thing it's so noticeable now. Help me out fellow Jeepers! Please!
NY JeepFest for Charity Sept 27th
Hey guys,
Would really like to get some of you out to show off your rides. Money goes to helping LOCAL MOM's with CANCER. Hopefully some will attend and pre-register here: http://ift.tt/1sL7y4Y
Would really like to get some of you out to show off your rides. Money goes to helping LOCAL MOM's with CANCER. Hopefully some will attend and pre-register here: http://ift.tt/1sL7y4Y
Fiberglass gate license plate holes
Does anybody here have a problem with the square license plate holes wearing out on the fiberglass gates? I've had two of them like that. Here's what I did: Grab an old Sawzall blade and grind the teeth and ends off with a bench grinder. Drill some holes in it and rivet it to the gate. I used a the saw blade because it's the right length and the metal is hard enough to last forever. It won't quickly rust and you can use sheet metal screws in it over and over. Spray paint yours so it's not as ghetto-fabulous as mine.
Shackle clearance
The rear is sporting rubicon express 4.5" xd leafs with a 4" shackle.
I'm having a problem squeezing every bit of flex out of these.
Boomerang shackles would help,but the newly installed tire carrier might be in the way.Let me know what you think.
That's fully tucked.
I'm having a problem squeezing every bit of flex out of these.
Boomerang shackles would help,but the newly installed tire carrier might be in the way.Let me know what you think.
That's fully tucked.
Dana 44 ford front questions
I bought a 2dr cherokee with ford hp d44 and 9 inch in it. But the welds are terrible. I strted grinding the junk off and im going to fab and weld new brackets and links. But i dont know axles well. Are my wedges cast in or welded in? If there just welded, does the axle tube run all the way through or will i have to cut em out and re sleeve it? I dont want to retube it if i dont have to.
Heres what iv got pictures of currently.
Thanks for any help
Heres what iv got pictures of currently.
Thanks for any help
Currie front lower control arms
vendredi 19 septembre 2014
Installed a stock mod Rockrawler lift with these control arms. Was under the Jeep today doing an oil change and noted the control arms were a bit off and took some pics as I was seeing the mechanic to pick up another car he was servicing. My mechanic said when he had the Jeep for other service last and I asked him to re-torque all the hardware that it had rotated as well, he straightened it out and re-torqued it then(about 1 month ago).
Any thoughts on reinstalling to keep them straight. I assume they are installed correctly. My mechanic is my Alfa Romeo mechanic of all things and also my VW mechanic but his other guy has a lot of experience with lifted Jeeps and I trust him as I 've worked with him for years.
Any thoughts on reinstalling to keep them straight. I assume they are installed correctly. My mechanic is my Alfa Romeo mechanic of all things and also my VW mechanic but his other guy has a lot of experience with lifted Jeeps and I trust him as I 've worked with him for years.
Camping at Evans Creek?
A few of us are planning a three day trip to Evans Creek the end of this month and I'm trying to get some info on the camping area. I want to bring a 38 foot motorhome and car trailer but wonder if I can get into the camping area without destroying the rig. Will I fit into the camp sites? How much dirt road will I need to drive and how rough are they. I've never been to Evans so any info you can share will be appreciated.
Wheel spacers and lugbolts...
I just installed 1½" wheel spacers on my 97 TJ SE. On the rear left the axel lugbolts are ¼" shorter and do not go all the way trough the supplied nut. The spacer is tight on the drum. The other 3 are OK. Is it OK that they are a little shorter or should I replace the bolts with longer? Anyone had that problem? If it is a problem. Are the old lugbolts hard to remove and what is the best method?
Sure like the look of the wider stance.
Sure like the look of the wider stance.
Can't fill the gas tank
Really frustrated. It takes me 15min or more to fill the tank. If close to empty it takes about 4-5 gal. with no problem, at that point it shuts off. At that point I have to fill it holding the gas handle and pumping it very slowly. It stops often when the gas backs up.
1. I have replaced both the fill hose and vent hose.
2. I replaced the fuel tank when I was building the Jeep. The tank had a large dent in it so I replaced it with a new one.
3. Every thing forward of the gas tank is Chevy, including a charcoal filter that I read that it can be defective causing this problem. They suggested blowing air through it to unclog any obstruction. which I did. Did not help.
Any Ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Dennis
1. I have replaced both the fill hose and vent hose.
2. I replaced the fuel tank when I was building the Jeep. The tank had a large dent in it so I replaced it with a new one.
3. Every thing forward of the gas tank is Chevy, including a charcoal filter that I read that it can be defective causing this problem. They suggested blowing air through it to unclog any obstruction. which I did. Did not help.
Any Ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Dennis
Extreme Custom Fabrication 6 point pro roll cage
So i'm looking at a roll cage for my 85 CJ7. Poison Spyder is nice and all but i don't have 1,100 dollars to buy it. I found a 6 point cage kit from Extreme Custom Fabrication and im wondering if anyone on here has any experience with them or have the cage in their rig. Thanks
:newbie:
:newbie:
Will Trade Chrome Mirror Cover For Painted Crystal Granite Metallic
I got a 2014 Limited and don't like the Crome Mirror Covers. Before I go trying to use chemicals to remove the chrome and then paint them, does anyone with a Granite Crystal Metallic WK2 want to trade mirror covers. I bought some replacement Mopar Chrome ones. They are brand new in plastic. I'll trade them to someone that prefers chrome to the painted plastic.
potts mtn 9/20
I know this is short notice but a couple guys from the West Virginia Jeep Club, a couple more from wrangler forum, and myself are running potts on 9/20. We plan on camping at the pines that night as well. We are meeting at the camp ground at 9:30 and aim to hit the trail by 10:00. The more the merrier come on out, camp with us if you like. We always like to meet new jeepers, so anyone who shows up will be welcome.
Looking for Waggy d44
jeudi 18 septembre 2014
Considering dumping the d30 if I can find a waggy d44 for the front of my 94 YJ.
Any to be found in the valley reasonable.
Any to be found in the valley reasonable.
savvy corner install pdf
anyone have a copy of the pdf or the password to get in online? I realize it's fairly straightforward but still would like em. Hoping to start install tonight. LJ corner guards.
Any SILENT recalls?
Does anyone know of any silent recalls on the 04 Grand Cherokees?
For those who don't know, a "Silent" recall is one that manufacturers recognize a Fault but not one that's typically catastrophic or dangerous (in their "OPINION") so they'll fix it for free if it fails but they don't want to pay to recall ALL the vehicles.
For those who don't know, a "Silent" recall is one that manufacturers recognize a Fault but not one that's typically catastrophic or dangerous (in their "OPINION") so they'll fix it for free if it fails but they don't want to pay to recall ALL the vehicles.
Minor port and polish on a TBI 2.5 do anything?
I've looked and I haven't found anything about porting and polishing the factory head. I'm sure someone has tried it.
Since I've decided to keep the 2.5 in place and since I have to tear off most of the engine top accessories anyway I thought about doing a little polishing and port matching. Has anyone done this and had a positive result?
I'm also considering freeing up the intake and exhaust (I think the header may have a hairline crack) a little but I don't want to lose my low end. Any pertinent advice?
Since I've decided to keep the 2.5 in place and since I have to tear off most of the engine top accessories anyway I thought about doing a little polishing and port matching. Has anyone done this and had a positive result?
I'm also considering freeing up the intake and exhaust (I think the header may have a hairline crack) a little but I don't want to lose my low end. Any pertinent advice?
Jingling in Stick Shift
Hi everyone, I purchased a brand new 2014 JK about 2 months ago. I've noticed recently that when shifting I hear a 'jingling' coming from the stick shift area. It happens almost always in 1st and 2nd gear, but goes away in higher gears. It gets louder with how hard I accelerate. I don't think it is coming from the engine because when I rev the engine in neutral there is no sound. When I hold the stick firmly in those gears I mentioned it does get slightly lessened. Anyone have ideas as to what this could be? Kind of frustrating since it is brand new. Thanks for your help in advance!
A WK, Namibia and 4500 miles
In December 2013 we drove 4500 miles through Namibia.
I thought I would share some pictures for the people that might be interested
I thought I would share some pictures for the people that might be interested
rebuild ABS brake module? 99 Gnd Cherokee
Is it possible? Which would be more likely, cleaning out lines or resoldering the circuit board?
32rh trans
mercredi 17 septembre 2014
are all 32rh trans the same ? say a 96 trans the same as a 99 trans ....thanks
(5) 16" Moabs 5x4.5" NY $400
Date stamped 2005. Very good shape. Some minor marks on 2 rims. Located in 11787. $400 open to trades. No chrome wheels. Pics to follow. Need to resize.
249 tc
I've got the 249 on my zj and I got a flat tire and was wondering if I can or can't put the spare on it. I don't think it's a donut I think its a full size spare but I remember reading that I could mess with my tc. Is this the case?
LIBERTY passenger door lock problem
My girlfriends daughter has a 2008 Liberty that the passenger side auto locks will at times while driving down the road will lock and unlock or at least try too. Has any one ever had this problem? and if so what was your solution to the problem? Any help would be appreciated. I myself think something is shorting out. Thanks in advance for your help. I'm an XJ man and live in that forum pretty much. Thanks again.:confused:
Fuel leak from quick connect
So I was out in the boonies this weekend when the engine suddenly shut off. When I went to restart it i could smell and hear fuel leaking out by the drivers side rear tire. Upon further inspection we found out it was coming from the quick connect where the main fuel line meets the metal line. After much fandangeling we just towed it back to camp, and eventually home. I replaced that high pressure line that goes from the tank to the metal line (about a foot long) and both connectors, went to start it and it was leaking from the exact same spot. Has anyone else had this problem? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
1997 Wrangler 2.5
1997 Wrangler 2.5
Quadratract
I have a quadratrac with a gear reduction unit. The shifter lever feels like there are 3 spots. Is there a neutral in it?
Selling hudden winch mount
Check FS section. Selling the Steel Armadillo hidden winch mount. Never removed from the box it's so fresh
4ft firestik mounting with flush taillights?
Simply put, I want to mount this antenna on my Jeep, but I dont have the stock taillights (I know a lot of people just use a 'behind the light' mount). Does anyone else have any decent mounting locations? Im curious to see other setups to give me some ideas. :thumbsup:
Newly rebuilt motor with two cylinders low compression
I was wondering if it is normal to have low compression on a rebuilt motor in some cylinders. On #1 and #4 I have 150psi while the rest have 180psi on my 4.0l engine out of my 99 Cherokee lmtd auto 4wd.
Not sure if something got messed up when the map sensor failed on break in or if this is typical of a break in and the rings just need to seat again (engine ran fine first few starts and heat cycles)? Thanks!
Not sure if something got messed up when the map sensor failed on break in or if this is typical of a break in and the rings just need to seat again (engine ran fine first few starts and heat cycles)? Thanks!
bilstein 51 or fox 2.0 shocks?!
I am stuck between choosing either of these shocks. from what I know bilsteins are pre tuned (for the most part) and don't need adjustment. as far as the fox shocks go I am leaning toward them but I d not have experience with shock adjustment. for somebody who hits some hard trails, rocks and tons of mud I am unsure of which one I should choose. any advise would be awesome
Xj hp 30
mardi 16 septembre 2014
I'm looking to upgrade my front axle what best year to look for thanx guys
steering wobble
Im sure this has been wore out but I have a question.I currently have the shake and the wheel shimmies side to side worse around 50 if I keep it there.How can you tell the difference between suspension or drivetrain issues that might be causing this?.If i want to eliminate drivetrain I would assume since the wheel shakes side to side it wouldnt be drive train?.any help would be appreciated,I have no lift and its plain jane 2006 tj x with a slightly bigger tire on the 15 inch wheel but have noticed high spots on the tires.
** things I have done and noticed lately***
1)just replaced rear axle bearings but the vehicle has wobbled a bit prior to the repair.(have a few hundred miles on rear axle repair)
2)checked all front end parts and nothing is loose.
3) I currently have a driver side sway bar bushing that is bad and popping around(not completely out yet).
4)all u joints look ok and no noticeable play.
** things I have done and noticed lately***
1)just replaced rear axle bearings but the vehicle has wobbled a bit prior to the repair.(have a few hundred miles on rear axle repair)
2)checked all front end parts and nothing is loose.
3) I currently have a driver side sway bar bushing that is bad and popping around(not completely out yet).
4)all u joints look ok and no noticeable play.
Headache - Do I really need 3.75 gears? Which new Jeep would you choose?
Was supposed to go pick up my new loaded JKU Sport tomorrow morning, with a tow package, that the dealer and Jeep website both said could tow 3500 pounds.
Thanks to reading this forum, I called the dealer today and he confirmed that it had the 3.21 gears, so 2000lb tow limit.
Pretty much a deal breaker as my current boat is right around 2000lbs and I will prob buy a bigger one down the road.
I called around all day and a dealer found me one jeep in the exact color (wife fell in love with Anvil) we wanted and 3.75 gears that is 1000 miles away (we live in smaller city near nothing) . He agreed to get it shipped to me.
However it has far fewer options then the first one and its the same price.
Here is the build on the two jeeps.
Jeep 1 - (3.21 Gears)
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic (W5A580)
Radio: Uconnect 430 CD/DVD/MP3/HDD
Black Jeep Freedom Top Hardtop
Air Conditioning
Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
Black Appearance Group
Power Convenience Group
SIRIUSXM Satellite Radio
Trailer Tow Group
6 Infinity Speakers w/Subwoofer
Connectivity Group
Black
Quick Order Package 24S
Anvil Clear Coat
Monotone Paint Application
Cloth Seats w/Adjustable Head Restraints
Jeep 2
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic (W5A580)
Black Jeep Freedom Top Hardtop
Air Conditioning
3.73 rear axle ratio
Power Convenience Group
Quick Order Package 24S
Anvil Clear Coat
Monotone Paint Application
Cloth Seats w/Adjustable Head Restraints
Got the dealer to throw in and install Mopar stock side steps and a Hitch and connecter on option 2
I really need to tow a boat, and I tow ALOT, but basically I'm giving up a bunch of options for 3.73 gears, which is a only $95 dollar option.
Thoughts? Should I just get the first jeep and tow with the 3.21s for a while or do it right and give up some creature comforts for the 3.73's?
Thanks to reading this forum, I called the dealer today and he confirmed that it had the 3.21 gears, so 2000lb tow limit.
Pretty much a deal breaker as my current boat is right around 2000lbs and I will prob buy a bigger one down the road.
I called around all day and a dealer found me one jeep in the exact color (wife fell in love with Anvil) we wanted and 3.75 gears that is 1000 miles away (we live in smaller city near nothing) . He agreed to get it shipped to me.
However it has far fewer options then the first one and its the same price.
Here is the build on the two jeeps.
Jeep 1 - (3.21 Gears)
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic (W5A580)
Radio: Uconnect 430 CD/DVD/MP3/HDD
Black Jeep Freedom Top Hardtop
Air Conditioning
Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
Black Appearance Group
Power Convenience Group
SIRIUSXM Satellite Radio
Trailer Tow Group
6 Infinity Speakers w/Subwoofer
Connectivity Group
Black
Quick Order Package 24S
Anvil Clear Coat
Monotone Paint Application
Cloth Seats w/Adjustable Head Restraints
Jeep 2
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic (W5A580)
Black Jeep Freedom Top Hardtop
Air Conditioning
3.73 rear axle ratio
Power Convenience Group
Quick Order Package 24S
Anvil Clear Coat
Monotone Paint Application
Cloth Seats w/Adjustable Head Restraints
Got the dealer to throw in and install Mopar stock side steps and a Hitch and connecter on option 2
I really need to tow a boat, and I tow ALOT, but basically I'm giving up a bunch of options for 3.73 gears, which is a only $95 dollar option.
Thoughts? Should I just get the first jeep and tow with the 3.21s for a while or do it right and give up some creature comforts for the 3.73's?
High Steer/SOA steering
I am ready to correct my steering (trying to get the SOA lift right) from what Ive heard high steer is the way to go. Ive seen some M.O.R.E. and rocky road kits but not to sure in what will work for me. Suggestions and links would be appreciated.
p.s. I also have thought about a hydraulic assist what do you guy know about them?
Also the pic below is what I'm going from.
p.s. I also have thought about a hydraulic assist what do you guy know about them?
Also the pic below is what I'm going from.
2015 Quadra Drive in Overland
Hi,
I can't seem to locate with any certainly the 2015 Quadra Drive in Overland cost on a v8. I am seeing contradictory info on the net. Anyone know about this or is it a "free" upgrade with the V8?
thanks.
I can't seem to locate with any certainly the 2015 Quadra Drive in Overland cost on a v8. I am seeing contradictory info on the net. Anyone know about this or is it a "free" upgrade with the V8?
thanks.
Steering issue on 2005 Grand Cherokee
Thought I would try to get an opinion from the experts:
There is something affecting the steering on my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 (120,000 miles). The steering wheel seems to turn much more easily than before, with very little effort required. It kind of makes the wheels feel this way as well, like there is little security in that I never know how far I'll have to turn to get to where I need to be. I notice this specifically when pulling into a parking space and when I get out and look at the lines on the ground, I don't quite end up where I thought I was going to. There is no play in the steering wheel; it turns the wheels right away when moved to either side.
I also notice when driving at speed around a corner and going over a bump, the car jumps left or right way more than it should. I feel like I am always making little steering adjustments even though the car doesn't necessarily pull to either side specifically. I got new tires about a month ago and the problem still exists. At no point do I feel any shaking or bumping through the steering wheel due to this issue.
The only noise I hear in relation to the steering is one or two clicks down at the wheels when turning all the way to either side slowly.
I have had this issue looked at at both a Jeep dealership (Crowley) and an
independent shop (Leether Automotive in Bristol) and neither could find any issue. At Leether, I had a few of the typical rubber suspension components replaced to fix a creak when going over bumps, which did not affect the steering.
I am concerned it is something that maybe a shop would not see in a typical inspection, perhaps something with the steering column.
Any ideas? Thanks for the help.
There is something affecting the steering on my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 (120,000 miles). The steering wheel seems to turn much more easily than before, with very little effort required. It kind of makes the wheels feel this way as well, like there is little security in that I never know how far I'll have to turn to get to where I need to be. I notice this specifically when pulling into a parking space and when I get out and look at the lines on the ground, I don't quite end up where I thought I was going to. There is no play in the steering wheel; it turns the wheels right away when moved to either side.
I also notice when driving at speed around a corner and going over a bump, the car jumps left or right way more than it should. I feel like I am always making little steering adjustments even though the car doesn't necessarily pull to either side specifically. I got new tires about a month ago and the problem still exists. At no point do I feel any shaking or bumping through the steering wheel due to this issue.
The only noise I hear in relation to the steering is one or two clicks down at the wheels when turning all the way to either side slowly.
I have had this issue looked at at both a Jeep dealership (Crowley) and an
independent shop (Leether Automotive in Bristol) and neither could find any issue. At Leether, I had a few of the typical rubber suspension components replaced to fix a creak when going over bumps, which did not affect the steering.
I am concerned it is something that maybe a shop would not see in a typical inspection, perhaps something with the steering column.
Any ideas? Thanks for the help.
radiator id
it's time for a new radiator and would like to know if there are any visual traits that can help me determine if I have a standard, heavy duty, or whatever cooling system. it is the original radiator that came with the 258. also, can I get a 'direct fit' one that has a trans. cooler? I don't want to start a fab job for this, got too many irons in the fire, but would like to have that type of cooler. thank you.
Size of bolt for the front suspension rubber stops
Hi
My Jeep is up in another part of Sweden at our cabin and can't get to it. Would one of you be able to let me know the size of the bolts that are used for the metal cup that holds the "end stop rubber piece" in place for the suspension?
And I assume it is US size, so not Metric?
My Jeep is up in another part of Sweden at our cabin and can't get to it. Would one of you be able to let me know the size of the bolts that are used for the metal cup that holds the "end stop rubber piece" in place for the suspension?
And I assume it is US size, so not Metric?
2.4l piston problems
Hey guys, my Haynes manual doesn't provide any cylinder specs for the 2.4l engine so i figured i would ask you guys.
i have a 2000 TJ with a 2.4l engine. a few years ago the #4 piston broke a skirt. at the time i didn't have the tools to measure out the bore and all that so i just got an OEM piston and threw it in there. a few years later i lost compression in that cylinder so i took it out and found that the rings were shattered and the gaps were hammered out a bit. i knew its days were numbered but i didn't have the means to do anything else so i just put new rings in as a band aid until i could fix it for good. its been OK for a few months, but the other day i lost compression again. i just took it apart today and found that the meat between the gaps had busted off. i measured out the bore at the top middle and bottom with a bore gauge and calipers (i didn't have a micrometer) and got these results:
Parallel measurements
Top- 3.880"
Middle- 3.880"
Bottom- 3.878"
Perpendicular measurements
Top- 3.870"
Middle- 3.874"
Bottom- 3.877"
I measured several times to be sure and they were all approximately the same. my main question is what are the dimensions for the bore supposed to be, what is the piston size supposed to be, and what are the piston-to-bore gap tolerances? also, should i be worried about the bore being out of round and tapered or is is within acceptable limits? i can certainly measure them again to be sure, maybe my technique is a bit off. anyway thanks ahead of time for any help.
i have a 2000 TJ with a 2.4l engine. a few years ago the #4 piston broke a skirt. at the time i didn't have the tools to measure out the bore and all that so i just got an OEM piston and threw it in there. a few years later i lost compression in that cylinder so i took it out and found that the rings were shattered and the gaps were hammered out a bit. i knew its days were numbered but i didn't have the means to do anything else so i just put new rings in as a band aid until i could fix it for good. its been OK for a few months, but the other day i lost compression again. i just took it apart today and found that the meat between the gaps had busted off. i measured out the bore at the top middle and bottom with a bore gauge and calipers (i didn't have a micrometer) and got these results:
Parallel measurements
Top- 3.880"
Middle- 3.880"
Bottom- 3.878"
Perpendicular measurements
Top- 3.870"
Middle- 3.874"
Bottom- 3.877"
I measured several times to be sure and they were all approximately the same. my main question is what are the dimensions for the bore supposed to be, what is the piston size supposed to be, and what are the piston-to-bore gap tolerances? also, should i be worried about the bore being out of round and tapered or is is within acceptable limits? i can certainly measure them again to be sure, maybe my technique is a bit off. anyway thanks ahead of time for any help.
Good Buy !? Jeep Cherokee 97'
lundi 15 septembre 2014
Hi I'm new here
I'm interested in a Jeep Cherokee 97' with the V6 engine ( assuming 4.0) ( see picture)
the asking price is $2000 which I thing is pretty decent according to the condition of the car ( inside and outside) unfortunately I don't know to much about the car and engines in general. ( The only knowledge I have is from my Chrysler Sebring that breaks down every 2 weeks .. so actually quite some knowledge about what can happen) So if I would buy a Chrysler Sebring, I would know exactly what to look for and to check on before i buy the car.
I was hoping somebody here can tell me what to look for/at on a used Cherokee of this modle before I buy it.
http://ift.tt/XtnIHD
I'm interested in a Jeep Cherokee 97' with the V6 engine ( assuming 4.0) ( see picture)
the asking price is $2000 which I thing is pretty decent according to the condition of the car ( inside and outside) unfortunately I don't know to much about the car and engines in general. ( The only knowledge I have is from my Chrysler Sebring that breaks down every 2 weeks .. so actually quite some knowledge about what can happen) So if I would buy a Chrysler Sebring, I would know exactly what to look for and to check on before i buy the car.
I was hoping somebody here can tell me what to look for/at on a used Cherokee of this modle before I buy it.
http://ift.tt/XtnIHD
Speedmaster Torque Worm Differential: Any Ford 9" Gurus out there?
Interested in hearing some feedback on this little guy...
http://ift.tt/1m9RsEP
Seems like an Eaton True-Trac clone, just half the price. Seems that some Nascar guys run the Speedmaster Brand stuff (they sponsor a car anyway).
Almost pulled the trigger on a "Ex-Nascar Detroit Locker" for my CJ 9" rear, but the aggressive road manners are making me think otherwise...I dont want to have a noisy *** rear-end for just cruising around town 60% of the time..
http://ift.tt/1m9RsEP
Seems like an Eaton True-Trac clone, just half the price. Seems that some Nascar guys run the Speedmaster Brand stuff (they sponsor a car anyway).
Almost pulled the trigger on a "Ex-Nascar Detroit Locker" for my CJ 9" rear, but the aggressive road manners are making me think otherwise...I dont want to have a noisy *** rear-end for just cruising around town 60% of the time..
Check Engine Light On... Again
I have a 2001 TJ sport 6 cylinder 5 speed manual, and my check engine light is on again. I took it to a quality tire and got the codes read and had minor fuse replacement work done. When I got home today, the engine was running at about 210 degrees, and when put it in neutral it sounded like the gears were making some kind of minor noise. I took it in to get the fluids changed around 2000 miles ago, and I just need some advice on this.
New hei distributor and painless harness
I just got a new HEI dist. Not very good wiring instructions and ive read a lot of the threads but still confused. The distributor has 2 male spades labeled BAT and TACH. I know the tach wire goes to tach connection. The ignition pos wire on the harness is small guage. How do I get power to the distributor? Do I need a relay? What size? How is it wired?
T5 Shifter
Haven't looked at it yet but the shifter is loose and sloppy. From viewing diagrams it looks like there are some plastic parts and metal clips that need to be replaced.
Anyone do this lately...any tips?
Anyone do this lately...any tips?
best place to buy oem heater core
Like the title says I'm looking for the best place to buy a OEM jeep heater core. Guys say autozone.com etc brand is junk so go with a actual mopar part....
dropping the fuel tank to get at rear control arm bolts
I noticed the bushings on my rear CA's were in horrible shape on the drivers side so I ordered up a set to replace all 4 on both sides.
Has anyone done this on their own?
I know the tank needs to be dropped to gain access to the bolts on the driver side, but does it need to be disconnected and removed all the way or can I leave everything intact and just drop it a few inches?
Has anyone done this on their own?
I know the tank needs to be dropped to gain access to the bolts on the driver side, but does it need to be disconnected and removed all the way or can I leave everything intact and just drop it a few inches?
All glow plugs open circuit problem on WK CRD
Hello
I'm looking to buy WK CRD and I found one overland model that looks awesome and I connected it on obd II diagnostics today and here is what I got:
It cranks a lot in the mornings, but after 2-3 tries it finally starts. When the engine starts, check engine (MIL) bulb goes off.
What it could be? is it possible that all 6 glow plugs are dead? Maybe module, but I guess then I would have p0670 error.
I'm looking to buy WK CRD and I found one overland model that looks awesome and I connected it on obd II diagnostics today and here is what I got:
It cranks a lot in the mornings, but after 2-3 tries it finally starts. When the engine starts, check engine (MIL) bulb goes off.
What it could be? is it possible that all 6 glow plugs are dead? Maybe module, but I guess then I would have p0670 error.
Cracked Bell Housing
Hi Folks
Well I have just been advised that I have a hole & crack in my transmission bell housing. Question I have is this: Is this terminal for the transmission or is it repairable? Would it be easier & cheaper to put a second hand unit in instead?
3.1TD VM unit by the way
Well I have just been advised that I have a hole & crack in my transmission bell housing. Question I have is this: Is this terminal for the transmission or is it repairable? Would it be easier & cheaper to put a second hand unit in instead?
3.1TD VM unit by the way
best place to buy oem heater core
Like the title says I'm looking for the best place to buy a OEM jeep heater core. Guys say autozone.com etc brand is junk so go with a actual mopar part....
All glow plugs open circuit problem on WK CRD
Hello
I'm looking to buy WK CRD and I found one overland model that looks awesome and I connected it on obd II diagnostics today and here is what I got:
It cranks a lot in the mornings, but after 2-3 tries it finally starts. When the engine starts, check engine (MIL) bulb goes off.
What it could be? is it possible that all 6 glow plugs are dead? Maybe module, but I guess then I would have p0670 error.
I'm looking to buy WK CRD and I found one overland model that looks awesome and I connected it on obd II diagnostics today and here is what I got:
It cranks a lot in the mornings, but after 2-3 tries it finally starts. When the engine starts, check engine (MIL) bulb goes off.
What it could be? is it possible that all 6 glow plugs are dead? Maybe module, but I guess then I would have p0670 error.
2005 GC Laredo A/C
Hello everyone,
The other day I took the information console out of my Jeep to change out the blown bulbs. After I took the bulbs I realized I wouldn't have A/C until I put everything back together. During the process of putting the console back I accidentally plugged the bottom wire cluster into one of the upper cluster spots. The A/C ran for a second or two then shut off, now it wont turn back on. Any suggestions on what might have happened? I already checked the fuses and relay and they all work.
Any help would be appreciated
The other day I took the information console out of my Jeep to change out the blown bulbs. After I took the bulbs I realized I wouldn't have A/C until I put everything back together. During the process of putting the console back I accidentally plugged the bottom wire cluster into one of the upper cluster spots. The A/C ran for a second or two then shut off, now it wont turn back on. Any suggestions on what might have happened? I already checked the fuses and relay and they all work.
Any help would be appreciated
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