My original fuel gauge went out, so I got a new autometer to replace it. The new gauge pegs all the way passed full regardless of fuel level. I'm trying to figure out if something else out of whack, or if I have the gauge miss-matched.
The gauge is an Autometer 10-73. 10 empty, 73 full.
The sending unit is for an MTS 21 gallon tank (this worked with the original fuel gauge, so should not be related to the problem at hand).
The gauge is currently only using the original wire to the sending unit. I have checked this wire for a short to ground, and it reads open when disconnected from both the gauge and the bullet connector near the sending unit. When plugged in at the sending unit, it gives an ohm reading that roughly matches what the fuel level should be, i.e full reads 75, half tank reads 25-30-ish, and I never run it empty so no idea below that range. So this wire should be in tact.
The gauge has a direct fused and switched power feed from the battery as per manufacturer instructions. The power, ground, and sending lines are all connected to the proper pegs. I've checked this at least 10 times to make sure I'm not crazy.
The sending unit has a new ground feed. This is run to a brass bolt I installed in the back of the Jeep when I had the fuel tank down to swap it. This grounding peg is a dedicated ground with a wire feed straight to the negative battery post.
Has anyone else installed these? Should I change the power feed to the pulsing feed that the original fuel sending unit used? Could the fact that I used a dedicated ground, rather than a body ground, affect the fuel gauge's reading? Should I chalk this up to a manufacturing defect and resign myself to purchasing a new gauge? I've checked the sending unit post of the gauge to see if it had an internal short, but that checked out ok. I'm not sure where else to look at this point.
The gauge is an Autometer 10-73. 10 empty, 73 full.
The sending unit is for an MTS 21 gallon tank (this worked with the original fuel gauge, so should not be related to the problem at hand).
The gauge is currently only using the original wire to the sending unit. I have checked this wire for a short to ground, and it reads open when disconnected from both the gauge and the bullet connector near the sending unit. When plugged in at the sending unit, it gives an ohm reading that roughly matches what the fuel level should be, i.e full reads 75, half tank reads 25-30-ish, and I never run it empty so no idea below that range. So this wire should be in tact.
The gauge has a direct fused and switched power feed from the battery as per manufacturer instructions. The power, ground, and sending lines are all connected to the proper pegs. I've checked this at least 10 times to make sure I'm not crazy.
The sending unit has a new ground feed. This is run to a brass bolt I installed in the back of the Jeep when I had the fuel tank down to swap it. This grounding peg is a dedicated ground with a wire feed straight to the negative battery post.
Has anyone else installed these? Should I change the power feed to the pulsing feed that the original fuel sending unit used? Could the fact that I used a dedicated ground, rather than a body ground, affect the fuel gauge's reading? Should I chalk this up to a manufacturing defect and resign myself to purchasing a new gauge? I've checked the sending unit post of the gauge to see if it had an internal short, but that checked out ok. I'm not sure where else to look at this point.
Aftermarket fuel gauge issues
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